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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Bought a 2002 GLS with 124,000 miles a couple of weeks ago.

Ok, so I'm driving to work and the oil pressure light starts fading in and out and I lose speed. Then it goes off and speed returns. As I'm getting off the highway 10 minutes later, the light comes on again and I'm getting some engine noise. Prior to this, the engine has run smooth as silk outside of a valve cover leak.

I roll it on up to a mechanic that I'm not familiar with who checks it out and says the noise is because a rod is going bad.

So... a couple of questions:

1. How imminent is "a rod going bad". I'm 40 miles from home. Can I limp home, or do I need a tow? If the engine is FUBAR anyway, it's just a saftey issue.

2. Is it possible that if it's just "going bad" and not "Thrown" it could be fixed?

3. If it is truly FUBAR, what engines can I stick in it, and what should I expect to pay for such a service.

4. I've got $1500 into the car now, is putting a new engine in it worth it? Or do I cut my losses and try and sell the shell on craigslist for a grand or so. Everything else seems to work well.
 

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QUOTE (elitts @ May 7 2010, 02:36 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=320619
Bought a 2002 GLS with 124,000 miles a couple of weeks ago.

Ok, so I'm driving to work and the oil pressure light starts fading in and out and I lose speed. Then it goes off and speed returns. As I'm getting off the highway 10 minutes later, the light comes on again and I'm getting some engine noise. Prior to this, the engine has run smooth as silk outside of a valve cover leak.

I roll it on up to a mechanic that I'm not familiar with who checks it out and says the noise is because a rod is going bad.

So... a couple of questions:

1. How imminent is "a rod going bad". I'm 40 miles from home. Can I limp home, or do I need a tow? If the engine is FUBAR anyway, it's just a saftey issue.

Rod knock -- FUBAR

2. Is it possible that if it's just "going bad" and not "Thrown" it could be fixed?

Crank repair (likely new crank) , new rod, shop time, do they make undersize rod bearing for 2.0 crank, then you have hacked engine with 124,000 mile

3. If it is truly FUBAR, what engines can I stick in it, and what should I expect to pay for such a service.

Used engine and labor, oil, coolant, gaskets... what shape is the used engine in, service history, warranty ...

4. I've got $1500 into the car now, is putting a new engine in it worth it? Or do I cut my losses and try and sell the shell on craigslist for a grand or so. Everything else seems to work well.

Short block NIB is $1650, put your head on it, update all the external expendables (t-stat, belts, plugs, wires and so forth), some labor... is the cost going to satisfy your use for a time in the future, what is car payments, you happy with the car
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ok, so a few of my questions got answered. (I found this out before reading the above response)

1. No, my bad rod can not be fixed.

2. Apparently I can drive about 6 miles with a bad rod before throwing it completely.



SOOO.... I'm replacing the engine. I've managed to figure out that only the 2001 and 2002 engines are directly compatible without any modifications. But assuming I want to be more flexible, what other engines should I be considering that may require an ECU reflash or something else in the "Not Too Expensive" category of modifications.

Will a 2003 engine work? I understand that the 2003 has a MAF sensor instead of the "MA??" that the 2002 has. Is that the only issue? Does it require more than an ECU reflash?

Please consider if you will this local auction ad. http://www.repocast.com/details.cfm?ID=121298

This is selling this week, from the picture, would you immediatly discount it as an option due to the impact damage? Or is it worth looking at.

I want to stay inexpensive, but I'm not finding lots of decent used 2002's in my area, so I can afford a couple hundred extra in modifications to not have to get an engine shipped from 300 miles away.
 

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Basic short block is same.

There is (3) styles of cylinder head,, and the use of wrong head with PCM data for that yr/enginge setup, Tech assist says air flow rate differences will give you never ending MIL fits..

You will need to use same pattern head as what your car came with.

You will use the intake that came with your car to match the head style that was OE to your car..

Simple terms, what you reinstall better look like what you took out to start with.

The car was sold at Fox Hyundai, 01/02/2004.. no open recalls.. 7yr and no warranty claims against the vehicle ?


Heads, there is (2) style of plain, look the tail of the cam cover on the exhaust side of the cover.... 1 has a short square end, the other is long rectangle shaped..

The 3rd style head has the Variable Valve Timing Cam / spool valve,, and oil control valve with electric connector sticking out the radiator side of cylinder head close to cylinder #4
 
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