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Discussion Starter #1
Girlfriend calls me from work. Says the driver side window made a loud noise and now the window won't roll up. She gets home first thing i notice is there is no way for me to pull the glass up through the window frame. It has dropped in the front and wedged itself in really tight. I go ahead and i disassemble the door panel via a few threads i found here http://www.hyundai-forums.com/231-md-2011-elantra/142378-applying-sound-deadening-elantra-doors-trunk-pics.html .
however i cant pull it off as the glass is still stuck to it and it bows if i pull on it.

I then took the motor assemble off the door and noticed the grooves for the wire are worn to nothing and the wire has snapped some how.

I called the dealer which was no help. Said i needed to buy a whole new door panel for $160 and they dont just sell the pulley and wire.

So here i am cant get the glass out of the door and cant find the part i need.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!

GF is a property inspector and drives 200-300 miles a day in the city of riverside and L.A. It's very important i get this fixed asap.

2012 elantra gls
 

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Warranty --> 5yr/60,000 mile,, why you messing with it..

You take it to dealer torn apart, they might have a fit and argue if warranty or not now.

Put it back together, and pull in service aisle, and let writer make ticket --> "Customer states: Window dont move up or down".
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Warranty --> 5yr/60,000 mile,, why you messing with it..

You take it to dealer torn apart, they might have a fit and argue if warranty or not now.

Put it back together, and pull in service aisle, and let writer make ticket --> "Customer states: Window dont move up or down".
coming up on 90k. like i said gf drives 200-300 miles daily. Service dept not an option im looking at especially here. Really expensive and super shady. Service manager told me that i couldn't just order the cable assembly i had to buy the entire door panel.
 

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Go to another dealer and seek a second opinion regarding this "ordering a second panel" response from the first dealer.
 

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Yep, you have to replace what we call the "regulator".. large panel with regulator attach to one side.. that is how the thing is serviced.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Yep, you have to replace what we call the "regulator".. large panel with regulator attach to one side.. that is how the thing is serviced.
Im seeing cable assembly/regulator online for about $22.
My problem now is the glass being stuck in the grip assembly. With the cable being broken it's all the way down in the most bottom position and I have no way I can see to get the glass up and out. Perhaps i could make some hooks of some sort and try and pull the glass up?
I though maybe coat hangers with some duct tape to prevent metal on glass contact but the hangers weren't even close to being long enough.

Also if the glass is in that assembly and held in there tight ill need extra hands to loosen the screw. That is if the assembly will even move freely into the proper alignment after the cable break.

As you can see from the image here that i borrowed several things could be preventing me from getting the glass out in one piece. http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z416/flatland2d/Sound Deadening/IMG_7846.jpg

Im also wondering what the chance those bottoms rollers/pulleys aren't damaged is.
Thanks for the input it is much appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
so i have drilled out the rivets on the speaker and am able to get the window up far enough to loosen/remove the bolts for the window glide (10mm bolts). They are however really stuck on there.
 

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Once you push up the window, can you pull on one of the cables to keep the window closed? If so, you could tie or crimp it down to hold the window closed and at least drive the car until you are able to get the part to repair it correctly. Just a way to get your GF a way to go to work.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Once you push up the window, can you pull on one of the cables to keep the window closed? If so, you could tie or crimp it down to hold the window closed and at least drive the car until you are able to get the part to repair it correctly. Just a way to get your GF a way to go to work.
I am not sure yet. the cable was snapped and i think it is all one unit. I was thinking the same thing however without getting into to much detail she needs to be able to have an open window to take photos of the outside of the inspections(through the glass is a big no no) she takes hundreds of photos a day. The window is constantly going up and down.


I'm at an impasse right now as the window is seemingly fused to the rubber glides that hold it in place. I've sprayed them with some lube and will let them sit for a while before i try and get the window out again. If i break the glass she'll have my head for sure.

Ill probably be paying $160 for a new panel as was suggested above as i don't think i can just buy the wire and roller. Even if i did have that i wouldn't know how to run the wire so the pulley properly works.

I should add that drilling out the rivets with the glass in the door is a sketchy deal. I drilled out the first rivet and the bit went all the way though and nearly broke the glass. The other three rivets i used a hammer and chisel to remove the head then GENTLY drilled out the reaming bit holding it in place.
 

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If possible, stick as large a piece of wood for the drill bet to hit and slow down so it doesn't hit the glass or use a drill stop.

As for buying a used cable assembly, you don't know how much wear it already has either. It would be worth the $160 for the peace of mind.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
If possible, stick as large a piece of wood for the drill bet to hit and slow down so it doesn't hit the glass or use a drill stop.

As for buying a used cable assembly, you don't know how much wear it already has either. It would be worth the $160 for the peace of mind.
Thats great advice right there.
I got the window out. Looks like all the mechanism on the regulator are super worn. Probably from the 10s of thousands of times that window has been rolled up and down.
 

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You're probably right on the cycle times of that window.

Glad I could be of assistance.

I hope the new one goes in a lot easier than that one came out.
 

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In a year I'd bet I haven't lowered my window more than a couple dozen times. The passenger and rears are almost never used, so I guess this disaster is far away. Glad you got that window up and good luck replacing everything.
 

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Regarding drilling the rivets out. The wood is a great idea. Also, if you're one who likes to add to you tool collection, there's also the option of using a STEP bit.

They're conical in shape and progressively drills larger holes the further it drills. Each larger step also makes a good stopping point, so the bit won't take off on you after it's cleared the hole it drilled.

They're a bit pricey though at about $30 apiece.

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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Discussion Starter #15
New window regulator module arrived today. Went together pretty easily. Spent the majority of my time adjusting and readjusting the window so that it tracked smoothly up and down. Thanks for all the input.
 

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Regarding drilling the rivets out. The wood is a great idea. Also, if you're one who likes to add to you tool collection, there's also the option of using a STEP bit.

They're conical in shape and progressively drills larger holes the further it drills. Each larger step also makes a good stopping point, so the bit won't take off on you after it's cleared the hole it drilled.

They're a bit pricey though at about $30 apiece.

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
I use these things. Work great, height adjustable, and are cheap.
7pc Split Ring Drill Bit Stop Collars Set Exact Hole Depth Brad Point Bits | eBay
 

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Regarding drilling the rivets out. The wood is a great idea. Also, if you're one who likes to add to you tool collection, there's also the option of using a STEP bit.

They're conical in shape and progressively drills larger holes the further it drills. Each larger step also makes a good stopping point, so the bit won't take off on you after it's cleared the hole it drilled.

They're a bit pricey though at about $30 apiece.

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
And worth every penny, IMO. I wouldn't have even attempted drilling holes for the rear spoiler without one of these. Tiny bits for pilot holes to start, but the actual hole size required for the mounting bolts is a prime candidate for the step drill. Thin sheet metal on a standard everyday twist drill bit will catch the metal and go crazy shooting off a pigtail and a hole of proportions and dimensions you DO NOT want to see.
 

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Regarding drilling the rivets out. The wood is a great idea. Also, if you're one who likes to add to you tool collection, there's also the option of using a STEP bit.

They're conical in shape and progressively drills larger holes the further it drills. Each larger step also makes a good stopping point, so the bit won't take off on you after it's cleared the hole it drilled.

They're a bit pricey though at about $30 apiece.

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
I got these from Harbor Freight. I purchased several sets and surprisingly still using the first set. Much cheaper than the Unibit which I also have in my toolbox.
3 Piece Titanium Nitride Coated High Speed Steel Step Drills
 
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