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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hey all,

I have an issue that i have been trying to resolve. When i depress the brake lightly to a stop, the pedal pulsates. But if I depress a little harder it pulsates initially midway down and then it stops as i press harder to brake. (I hope this is easy to understand). so... press lightly, pulsates until I reach a stop. press firmly, pulsates briefly, then no pulsation until i reach a stop.

I have pretty much replaced everything. Calipers, rotors, pads, lnes, fluid, hardware. lugs are torqued to 100ftlbs.

Also the caliper is not sticking the problem persists even after I replaced the calipers. I am left at a total loss here. I cant think of anything else.

one thing that i noticed is, the LUGS are really hot to the touch after driving it for 15 min or so.

Who has some ideas of whats going on?
 

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Hot lugs would indicate the brakes are dragging and causing the disks to heat up more than thru normal use. You'd better also check on the specs for wheel torquing. I doubt that 100lb/ft are called for. My book (Sonata = max 70). No car I have ever owned went beyond 80.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
ok, thanks! point taken. I'll adjust the lug's torque accordingly.

also, What if the brakes are not dragging. the wheel spins freely when i jack the car up. could there be another possibility? also, whats causing the pulsation. even with new rotors.
 

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100 ftlbs is WAY too much. Specs is 65-80. Drop them down to 70.

Now, the pulsation.
Did you check other stuff like ball joints, tie rod ends, balance wheels...

If the wheels spin freely (when lifted) do one test. Check the lug nuts in the morning (should be cold :D).
Get to the car and drive (preferably on highway) for about 10-15 minutes and come to a complete stop. BUT - do NOT use brakes at all. Do not touch them (Except to shift to Drive). Let the car coast to stop (I do not know, Sunday morning, or late night?).
Then check all the lug nuts. If they are cold - no dragging. Then tap (quickly) rotors to see how warm they are. Both sides should be pretty much same to touch. If one is hot - you got the winner.


Now, if all cold keep driving.
Start and repeat the stop when pulsation occurred. If you can feel it - I bet that is not brakes related.
Check suspension.
 

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Harbor Freight has an infrared heat gun for cheap.
Get one and you can see if one brake is hotter than the other.
The fronts will be much hotter than the rears.
The most common cause (as I hear) of brakes pulsating is improper brake shoe brake in procedure causing uneven deposits that make the rotor vary in thickness.
Come to a stop with virgin, hot brakes and you are humped for a smooth brake pedal.
Also, the stuck caliper slide as mentioned by mooseman93 as well as the worn front end parts.
Then there is the issues I had.
Excessive run-out where the caliper wobbles back and forth along with a bad slider.
The hub was out from the factory as were the stock rotors.
If need be, find a place where you can get the rotors turned "on the car" to ensure they are perfectly straight.
I just get EBC brakes for the front.
Last time I got the plain black slotted rotors with the green pads, but this time I'm trying the gold, slotted and dimpled front rotors with the red pads.
The green ones stopped the car like you would not believe!
The brakes only lasted 2 years but it was worth it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks guys... I adjusted the torque on the lugs. I am suspecting that it is the slider pins and or caliper bracket. It has new calipers, but the brackets are original. It pulsates when you slightly depress the brake when coming to a stop but it stops when you press the brake with more force. I am going to perform that test regarding the cruising to a stop. thanks guys. I'll keep you up to date.
 
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