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Discussion Starter #1
I was told by a mechanic few months ago that all rotors and pads should be replaced.
So I went and bought rotors and pads.
I’ve replaced the front end, and it seems that the pads not were still good.



This is the front rotor with hammering marks


When I got to the rear end, there wasn’t any doubt the the pads are completely fine and I’ve checked the rotors thickness and it seems to be ok, more than 9.6 mm, but it was with a cheap digital caliper.
I’ve ordered a good quality micrometer to know for sure.

But what do you think of the front rotors and pads, it needed to be replaced or I could have waited with this job?
 

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they look like they were ready to change. did you compare the new ones with the old? should've been significant difference.
 

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Close enough to consider replacement.. 3mm is considered "red" on thickness gauges, 4mm bottom of yellow..

Pads dont always wear even too,, sticking in mount, gross rotor face rust, caliper that dont fully float.. I see pads wore on taper and angle all the time..

New pad is typically 10mm thick (friction material),, 3-4mm is time to be getting ready to replace,, wear sensors about worthless,, some people claim to not heard anything until major grind of pad backing into rotor face.. they done used up for all they worth now.. always put new pads on new rotor face.. new pads on old rotor faces will make for odd friction noises and shorter pad life..
 
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If you change them then please note the mileage on vehicle
Also check the estimated mileage of the pad when you buy them
Sync your next brake check with the information provided
 

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Don't be a cheapskate when talking about brakes. Your life, literally, depends on them.

.
 

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Yep, those fronts are due. If you look at your photo you can see what SBR11 is talking about with the uneven wear. The thickness of the remaining friction material is not even across the face, based on observation of the depth of the "cut" through the friction material. The fronts were definitely due.

Rotors have a minimum thickness stamped in the casting which tells you the minimum thickness of the remaining material needed after turning/truing to maintain safe, structural integrity. Without measuring, and based on the photo's supplied, if the rotor shown has never been turned before it *might* have enough material there for machining and not need replacement. Here again, should be determined with a micrometer to confirm. There is something in the photo that is not obvious as to whether it is water/oil droplets on the surface of the rotor, or pits in the surface. If those are pits, I would say the rotors will likely need replacement. Another thing to watch out for is rust in the fins of a vented rotor. Those that have two friction surfaces separated by fins to allow for more/faster cooling of the brakes. Typically these are on front brakes while the rear rotors are "solid". Check for excessive rust in these fins. I had a Honda just a couple of weeks ago that at first look the rotors could have been turned. Then I looked at the cooling fins and saw that there was only about 1/3 of the original thickness left on the fins! Car came from an area that used salt on winter roads, so new rotors for the front.

Brakes are cheap, body work on cars and people is not.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks everyone for your comments.
As I mentioned the front end was completely replaced, now I’m just waiting for the micrometer to arrive so I’ll be able to measure the thickness of the rear rotors
 

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Thanks everyone for your comments.
As I mentioned the front end was completely replaced, now I’m just waiting for the micrometer to arrive so I’ll be able to measure the thickness of the rear rotors

I dont bother with rear rotors,, thin single layer plate, aged-rusted.. not worth cutting and reducing thickness (heat up and warp faster),, besides any existing warp that need cut off to make rotor faces straight again,, faster to just install new parts with full thickness and start new again for long life
 
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