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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Has anyone replaced their brake pads and rotors?

Brake bleed procedure same as any other car? Anything to look out for with our hybrid?


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I have not yet but I am curious as to what mileage you're at. I've seen multiple reports of people saying they went 120,000 miles before the first brake replacement because of the regenerative braking.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I have not yet but I am curious as to what mileage you're at. I've seen multiple reports of people saying they went 120,000 miles before the first brake replacement because of the regenerative braking.


81k and don’t need to replace right this minute. Have about 25% life left on front pads. Just wanted to know if this is something we have to go to the stealership for or can we diy.


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Did my front pads and rotors at 60k and will be doing rears this summer (price of living in DC). Fronts are easy/standard but rears you'll have to move the lower shock absorber bolt to get one of the mounting bolts out. Procedures below.

http://www.hsguide.net/rear_disc_brake_repair_procedures-391.html

If you've done brakes before, this will pretty much be the same procedure.

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Did my front pads and rotors at 60k and will be doing rears this summer (price of living in DC). Fronts are easy/standard but rears you'll have to move the lower shock absorber bolt to get one of the mounting bolts out. Procedures below.

http://www.hsguide.net/rear_disc_brake_repair_procedures-391.html

If you've done brakes before, this will pretty much be the same procedure.

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Thanks a lot that’s an awesome guide!


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I don't think I have ever replaced rear rotors in any car, unless they were ruined by the pads. Front rotors go all the time. So the shock and strut only have to be removed if you have to get the rotors off in back, not the pads ?

I was wondering how long the pads would last, only 22K miles on mine. I'll check them in a few months.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I don't think I have ever replaced rear rotors in any car, unless they were ruined by the pads. Front rotors go all the time. So the shock and strut only have to be removed if you have to get the rotors off in back, not the pads ?

I was wondering how long the pads would last, only 22K miles on mine. I'll check them in a few months.


That’s how I read it, if only servicing rear pads no need to remove rear shocks.


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That's exactly why I'm replacing my rear discs. There are some deep grooves made by rocks and they're not worth putting on a lathe since the specs are already so tight and barely anyone does turning anymore.

If not changing rotors, make sure you bed them properly with the new pads.
I don't think I have ever replaced rear rotors in any car, unless they were ruined by the pads. Front rotors go all the time. So the shock and strut only have to be removed if you have to get the rotors off in back, not the pads ?

I was wondering how long the pads would last, only 22K miles on mine. I'll check them in a few months.
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I just did the fronts on our 2011 Hybrid with 69K. The inner pad on both sides was half what the outer pads were. The left side rotor had deep groves from some type of contamination. The pads on both sides were pretty much stuck in place. So new rotors and ceramic pads and we are good to go. The backs were done at less than 50K. I think the backs work all the time while the fronts don't when reg is working. Braking is greatly improved. So don't rely on pad thickness but over all braking performance. When I checked the rears when I did the fronts, the left side was dragging already. So I cleaned up the pads, re-lubed them and the clip and seems fine now. These brakes need regular cleaning and lubrication.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I just did the fronts on our 2011 Hybrid with 69K. The inner pad on both sides was half what the outer pads were. The left side rotor had deep groves from some type of contamination. The pads on both sides were pretty much stuck in place. So new rotors and ceramic pads and we are good to go. The backs were done at less than 50K. I think the backs work all the time while the fronts don't when reg is working. Braking is greatly improved. So don't rely on pad thickness but over all braking performance. When I checked the rears when I did the fronts, the left side was dragging already. So I cleaned up the pads, re-lubed them and the clip and seems fine now. These brakes need regular cleaning and lubrication.
Did you go with oem or aftermarket?
 

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Sorry, didn't see this. I went with aftermarket. Duro-Go rotors and Power Stop pads. They got tested the other day and they work just fine.
 

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My 2011 Hybrid is at 122,500 with all original pads. Bought OEM front pads to replace at 100,000 but still had half the pads left. I firmly believe I'll make 150k miles before making the switch.
At that point, I'll replace the rotors and pads all the way around (front and rear).
 

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Just did tire rotation on my 2011 with over 80K miles today and the pads are still looking great.
 

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I'm at just under 100,000 miles now and checked the brakes yesterday. First picture is of the front driver's side and other 2 pics are rear driver's side. Seems the inside pads are wearing a bit more than the outside pads. Lots of rust on them due to NY winter salt. They look like they were sitting on the bottom of the ocean for decades.
I just ordered a set of 4 Powerstop coated rotors and pads on RockAuto. The kit came out to $223 including shipping and tax. Now I hope not to come across many problems getting to the rear rotors, having to move the control arm and such. What a dumb engineering design.
 

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Installed the 4 new rotors and pads yesterday and the fronts went in easily, but the rears gave me a bit of a hard time getting the control arms aligned. Also, RockAuto sent me the wrong rear pads so I had to run out to Advance Auto and get the proper rear pads, and sent back the wrong ones to Rockauto. I did buy an alignment punch which helped out a lot in getting things lined up, but there's not much room to work with as far as hitting the bolt through the control arm from the front side of vehicle towards the rear. It's a lot easier hitting it from the rear towards the front.
Either way, it took a few hours with breaks included and I saved a few bucks. I heard of dealers charging up to $1100 for this job on some threads which is ridiculous. Here is a good video that helps:
 

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Wow that brake system you have Vinny looks horrible! LOL You're a brave man to tackle. Appreciate the links and information you've provided.
 

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A few pictures of the brakes. Sorry, it won't allow me to turn the pics. As can be seen in the last pics, I still had some decent pad life left and could have gone a while longer with them.
Seems the inner front pads wore quicker than the outer ones did.
 

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Hope you like the new rotors and pads? I'm thinking that perhaps the uneven inner/outer wear may come about from all the corrosion and such going on for so long and almost 100K. Where one side (inner) was dragging a bit more than the other... Had it not been for that, you could have gone 120K...
 
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