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Discussion Starter #1
I fitted a leak valve on my acuator solenoid to upp my boost. if a take it past 14 psi my car tends to shake about back and forth. the power goes into an "on off" rythem. i personally think that it could be A: there is not enough fuel going through even though i have a power boost valve turned all the way up. Or B: the amount of pressure is blowing the spark out. I have yet to try checking and shortening the electrode gap. has anyone experienced this problem? if so what did you do?
 

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hello


when that happens it means you boost is to high, the ecu measures the boost also, and when it hits 1bar it go's in limp mode (safe mode) and cuts of the fuel!

what you could do is, is placing another valve in the line thats going in the ecu.

dont know if some people done yet though.

otherwise raise it to 12 psi, that wouldnt make him stutter!



hope i helped ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Ah,that makes sense!well i think theres two solenoid pipes going to the turbo. one for the actuator and on that goes on the outlet of the turbo. my theory is that the solenoid that goes on the outlet of the turbo measures how much pressure comes out. if i was to fit the leak valve to that the ecu wouldnt no how much pressure is really coming out the turbo. therefore it wouldnt cut off the fuel. thus meaning i could take it as high as i liked (About 15 psi) my turbo and actuator is set up like this if you havnt already seen a diagram of the turbo unit.
 

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Hi!.......I`ve replied to your PM with a full answer to your problem.

I hope my advice was useful,
Cheers,
Nick. :)
 

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Hi, I run 15 psi and run well

You just need Apexi S-AFC or some kind of this unit to decrease[not increase] your fuel because whan ECU knew more boost ,more fuel come automatic to safe the engine(Boost control valve must not use)

i try to increase fuel but no something better

but intercooler and Adjustableregulator are need

use this Attachments to seting up you S-AFC

sorry for my english :p and hope this help
 

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I have a similar problem. When the car is in gear, and not traveling at freeway speeds (15-50 mph), it acts like tries to die about once every fraction of a second, kind of like you're pumping on the gas right? Mine only does it when I'm not giving it a lot of gas, as in I've already reached the speed I want and I'm only giving it enough fuel to maintain that speed. Clutching, then applying gas again will alleviate this problem for a very brief moment. So does accellerating.

It started happening when I mocked up a universal cold air intake. I think I may have buggered up the MAF sensor in the process. The ECU doesn't know how much gas to put into your engine, so certain conditions may put it in "limp-home-mode." I'm no mechanic though, so don't take my word for it. :p

Try finding a MAF sensor from a scrapyard and putting it in. If that doesn't work, well, good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I have been looking at the APEXi piggy back computers. Are they hard to fit?would i get instructions?i would say ime capable of fitting them.also i want some bigger injectors.aparently i can ust the ones off the 93 generation coupe.does anyone no how much these would cost?
 

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Even if you `fool` the turbo`s wastegate into staying closed longer & thus increase the boost.........which is what your bleed valve does.......there is still a line running from the intake manifold to the coloured-LED boost display AND directly to your ECU.
This tells the ECU the real boost you are actually running & once you go over 12 p.s.i. the ECU will automatically go into limp mode!.

You may be able to stop this happening by fitting a second bleed valve into this latter pressure line, just before it reaches the ECU.

As I mentioned in my P.M., fitting & tuning a piggy-back computer has to be done by an expert using a laptop & a rolling road........you can`t use guesswork!.
This would likely be fairly expensive.

If your plugs are a tan colour after a high-speed run using full boost, then your current fuelling is O.K., just cut the boost back to 12 p.s.i., or try a second bleed valve as mentioned above.

Good luck!
Nick. :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #9
ok, well ime looking to spend 800 quid top line.will a get all this and still have change?ime getting some new alloys next week firstly tho :57: 17" tsw multi spokes. will look nice!ime also looking for some new rear dampers. performance or standard.any1 no what n where for these?
 

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I would guess around £200/£250 to have your car dyno-tuned once you have bought the piggy-back computer.

Superchips have a chip for the S-Coupe Turbo only, which doubles the boost to 14 p.s.i., increases the fuelling, adjusts the timing & ups the power by 30 b.h.p. over stock......assuming everything on the car is as ex-factory.
The cost of this is around £560 inc. dyno/laptop tuning, but you would have to discuss the compatibility of your existing mods..
(You would not then need the piggy-back!).

I used Spax lowering springs (from Demon Tweeks) & bought Pedders shock-absorbers from:-http://www.performancestylingcentre.com.au

Although these shocks were probably cheaper than from Hyundai, bear in mind that the Hyundai units made for the turbo car are uprated & very high quality as well!.
Just fitting lowering springs definitely kills the original shocks in weeks.....due to the mileage they will already have covered .....(I tried it!!).

Cheers,
Nick. :)
 

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hi can anyone help me with the plumbing on the boost pressure solenoid on my starex svx 2001? does anyone have the stock diagram on this? it has a dual 3 port solenoid attached to it. I have no idea which goes to the turbo, wastegate, alternator, etc. Thanks
 
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