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Discussion Starter #1
hey guys, new to this forum

I have a 2000 Accent GL with the 1.3

I was driving home with a known overheating problem, when the temp gauge pegged and a heard a distinct rattling. I knew right away what happened. as I pulled over the engine stopped turning. I opened up the hood, and my suspicions were confirmed. I blew a headgasket. I went back into the car to call AAA, and I heard a loud POP!! the radiator blew from the heat and pressure.

after it got home and cooled down I tried cranking it over and it has NO comression. it just spins.

should I take the time and money to replace the headgasket, or should I just get a junkyard motor?

I know I need a new MAF. I had a "multiplicative fuel system running lean" code for a LONG time. I regrettably assume this is what caused the failure in the first place.
 

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QUOTE (Lacky01 @ Jul 28 2010, 12:25 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=345429
hey guys, new to this forum

I have a 2000 Accent GL with the 1.3

I was driving home with a known overheating problem, when the temp gauge pegged and a heard a distinct rattling. I knew right away what happened. as I pulled over the engine stopped turning. I opened up the hood, and my suspicions were confirmed. I blew a headgasket. I went back into the car to call AAA, and I heard a loud POP!! the radiator blew from the heat and pressure.

after it got home and cooled down I tried cranking it over and it has NO comression. it just spins.

should I take the time and money to replace the headgasket, or should I just get a junkyard motor?

I know I need a new MAF. I had a "multiplicative fuel system running lean" code for a LONG time. I regrettably assume this is what caused the failure in the first place.
Sounds like it's toast, i'd try repairing the head or if it's cheaper get a used engine . btw, accents in usa/canada have 1.5 or 1.6's.
 

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QUOTE (hyunnychub @ Jul 28 2010, 01:19 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=345442
Sounds like it's toast, i'd try repairing the head or if it's cheaper get a used engine . btw, accents in usa/canada have 1.5 or 1.6's.

thanks for the reply, good info. I've been having trouble finding specific info on my car like the engine size. I assume I have the 1.6 cuz it's a 2000 model? I'm still trying to learn the year/options breakdown.

I think I'm going to replace the gasket and get a junkyard radiator and try a repair. should cost under $150. If that doesn't work I'll get an engine/tranny for about $400. the tranny is making odd noises every now and again. It's on its way out.

even after both repairs it'll be cheaper than buying another car. cuz at least I know it doesn't need any more work right away
 

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QUOTE (Lacky01 @ Jul 29 2010, 02:30 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=345787
thanks for the reply, good info. I've been having trouble finding specific info on my car like the engine size. I assume I have the 1.6 cuz it's a 2000 model? I'm still trying to learn the year/options breakdown.

I think I'm going to replace the gasket and get a junkyard radiator and try a repair. should cost under $150. If that doesn't work I'll get an engine/tranny for about $400. the tranny is making odd noises every now and again. It's on its way out.

even after both repairs it'll be cheaper than buying another car. cuz at least I know it doesn't need any more work right away
If the tranny is dying, why not "bite the bullet" and invest the $150 into a replacement engine/transaxle combination - you'll need a radiator replacement regardless of which way you go.
 

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QUOTE (Alfons @ Jul 29 2010, 04:00 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=345814
If the tranny is dying, why not "bite the bullet" and invest the $150 into a replacement engine/transaxle combination - you'll need a radiator replacement regardless of which way you go.

well, If I was going to replace the transmission this winter would be the time to do it. I want to try the headgasket first just to see if I don't have to replace the engine.

I guess the thing that troubles me the most about it, is that my sister owned this car before and she ran it out of oil once. It still ran ok after, but there is all sorts of sludge and burnt oil in the valve cover area. at least from what can be seen through the oil inlet. that in combination with the headgasket and overheating that caused, I'm thinking I shouldn't even waste my time/money with the motor thats in there. It only has 125,000 miles on it, but the maintenance was neglected before I got a hold of it.

I take pride in repairing stuff right the first time. Pics of a restoration project I'm working on: http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showpost.php?p...p;postcount=193
I'm not new to cars, but I've never torn into an engine before. this is gonna be a good experience for me
 

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You either have a 1.6L or 1.5L. If your spark plug cover says DOHC 16V you have a 1.6L, otherwise you have the single cam 1.5L.
 

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QUOTE (rsquared @ Jul 29 2010, 09:09 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=346052
You either have a 1.6L or 1.5L. If your spark plug cover says DOHC 16V you have a 1.6L, otherwise you have the single cam 1.5L.

I have the 1.5L

is a 1.6L conversion an option? would it be worth it?

I'm gonna see if this motor will run again though
 

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This is how I would think about the situation if I was in your shoes:

  • The engine was run without oil - this created damage to some degree.
  • Head gasket shot - might be more damage from the overheat.
  • Transmission on it's last legs.
  • Do I put in $150 + as a temporary fix?
  • How long would this fix last?
  • Do I replace the whole engine and transmission with something that actually has some guarantee (salvage yards normally give a short replacement guarantee, just make sure they have another to replace it with before buying one - you can install it and do some tests including compression etc.) ?
  • Would I want to replace it with something that has more power (1.5 or 1.6)?

Although it may not be much, but it would really bother me to throw money into something that may already be FUBAR.

You may be able to find a wreck that has the front in good shape & buy the whole thing as a parts doner, this way you also get a radiator plus all the odd parts that you'd need when replacing an engine/transmission with something that wasn't originally in the car. Might not be much, but I've found there's always something I could use. You can sell the rest to a scrap metal dealer for a few bucks to defray some of your costs.
 

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QUOTE (Alfons @ Jul 31 2010, 04:43 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=346307
This is how I would think about the situation if I was in your shoes:

  • The engine was run without oil - this created damage to some degree.
  • Head gasket shot - might be more damage from the overheat.
  • Transmission on it's last legs.
  • Do I put in $150 + as a temporary fix?
  • How long would this fix last?
  • Do I replace the whole engine and transmission with something that actually has some guarantee (salvage yards normally give a short replacement guarantee, just make sure they have another to replace it with before buying one - you can install it and do some tests including compression etc.) ?
  • Would I want to replace it with something that has more power (1.5 or 1.6)?

Although it may not be much, but it would really bother me to throw money into something that may already be FUBAR.

You may be able to find a wreck that has the front in good shape & buy the whole thing as a parts doner, this way you also get a radiator plus all the odd parts that you'd need when replacing an engine/transmission with something that wasn't originally in the car. Might not be much, but I've found there's always something I could use. You can sell the rest to a scrap metal dealer for a few bucks to defray some of your costs.

as my dad and I have been discussing it, we've come to that very solution.

I'd like to get a 2005 with a 1.6 and use EVERYTHING out of it including PCM
would I run into any problems plugging it into my existing wiring? should I find one with the 1.5?
 

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QUOTE (Lacky01 @ Aug 3 2010, 01:42 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=346786
as my dad and I have been discussing it, we've come to that very solution.

I'd like to get a 2005 with a 1.6 and use EVERYTHING out of it including PCM
would I run into any problems plugging it into my existing wiring? should I find one with the 1.5?
Whether you have a "plug for plug" swap between the cabin and the engine bay when you install a 1.5 or 1.6, I don't know. You might want to ask at a dealership or maybe someone here knows more on that subject. I don't have any wiring diagrams to check that out - my impression was that North American 2G accents came with 1.5 or 1.6 & there's no listing for a 1.3 in my manuals.

I would suspect that the basic cabin wiring should be the same, but you might need to do some "ring out" and splicing. This is kind of a tedious process but certainly do-able as long as you understand the basics of electricity and don't cut corners. I would search for a 1.3 wiring diagram first (1.5 & 1.6 are available here) to see what goes through the firewall on both vehicles and then it's much easier to plan for the swap. If you just jump into it, you can end up with a real mess and a bunch of fried wire.

Did you check the Hyundai Service site to see if they have anything on a second generation 1.3?

I've done a number of engine swaps with engines of the same manufacture as the body and also different (mostly with GM & Chrysler products) and here are a few considerations that I apply to the subject:
  • If you take all the engine associated wiring, including the starting & charging circuits, the PCM, all the sensors and such, you can make the engine run with little effort.
  • If the firewall connectors (including that leading to the fuse panel) are different, I take both sides of the connector and make the splice under the dash.
  • If the fuse panel in the cabin is wired differently, I take the fuse panel that goes with the engine bay wiring and splice under the dash to connect the dash wiring. Occasionally, you may need to add an auxiliary fuse panel to accommodate some odd-ball requirement.

In addition to wiring diagrams, get yourself a cheap digital multi-meter - it certainly helps with ring-out and diagnostics. Get some extra test leads (you can make these) that have alligator clips, you'll need a few needles/pins to stick through insulation to make contact with some of the wiring.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I'm back :^)

I have the mustang in storage and out of the way, so now the Nugget gets some attention.

once I get paid I'll purchase the headgasket and head bolts from Rockauto. I'm getting the cheapest parts since 1) I don't know if it will work and 2) I only need this car to last a few more months anyway. I'm in the market for an economical AND reliable vehicle. and I personally hate this stupid car. I've priced the headgasket and bolts at under $60 shipped. that works for me, and is much cheaper than an auto parts store.

on to the details:

the interior needs attention. we had the car covered and stored outside for the last few months and it caused some mold to grow inside. a LOT of mold :^/ the interior will get steam cleaned by professionals, and then promptly detailed by yours truly. I've taken the battery out of the vehicle to keep it fresh, it won't need to be cranked again till I replace the gasket. once the parts are shipped to me, the Nugget will go under the knife. between me and my Dad, we should be able to get it done in a day. ...or two. I dunno, I'm not too worried about it.

Lets assume the worst, shall we? We finish the repair and it wont start. *gasp!!* I haven't been able to find an engine for less than $400, and IMHO thats as much as the car is worth to me. and that's without replacing the transaxle. :^/ so I think if thats the case, I will probably just replace the vehicle with something else. tax returns are coming... >:^)

and if all goes well? stupendous! I'll get a replacement radiator, Mass airflow sensor, and finish the brake job I started so long ago.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I just ordered the parts:

Headgasket: $18

Headbolts: $33

Radiator: $72

MAF: $67

the thing with the cheap MAF is the shipping was like $35. It was shipped from the UK :^/ Its cheaper than the $133 one though.

the teardown will begin on monday, and I'll try to remember to take a bunch of pictures to chronicle the events. We are hopefully optimistic that its gonna work. if we need to replace the head, it will STILL be cheaper than replacing the stupid car.
 

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head bolts showed up today! headgasket wont be here till next thursday ish :^/

I don't know about the other parts, my dad ordered those.
 

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hey, so I've got a lot of the car dismantled. I have the radiator out, the exhaust manifold/cat off, and the air filter/MAF sensor assembly out. I have two bolts left on the intake manifold and then thats off. I got tired, so I'll finish those in the morning.

the carnage thus far:
1) there is a stress crack in the exhaust manifold. that motor got fricken hot! I will probably be looking for a junkyard replacement unless I can find someone who can weld that without warping it.
2) ...the head gasket :^D

thats all for now. once I set the timing and pull the head off, I'll take it to the local machine shop and have it looked at. they'll know if its any good better than I.
 

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got the head off today

It's warped and most likely toast. It's at the machine shop and will be thoroughly inspected and a quote will be given for repair. I've found a couple sources for rebuilt heads and I'll be calling them for prices. I also need to call some junkyards and see if theres any good used heads for cheap. If we go with a junkyard head, it will go to the machine shop for any work that it needs.

the MAF sensor I purchased from Rockauto.com shipped from the UK. thats because its designed for an accent in europe. I had to ship it back at my own expense and I'll be reimbursed for the part. We'll have to fork over the moolah for a U.S. part. $133 plus shipping :^/ live and learn right?

this is gonna take longer than I thought! lol
 

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wonderful news! we have enough money to buy the rest of the parts we need.

I am ordering a rebuilt head to the tune of $309. the radiator is here and I need to move the fans and stuff over from the old one. I also need to get a thermostat, timing belt, another MAF sensor, oil and filter, and a jug of anti-freeze.
we got the exhaust manifold fixed, a local shop welded it up with 99% Nickel rods. to his suprise it welded up quite nicely despite the horribly cheap and dirty Korean cast iron.

we should have the nugget operational in less than two weeks. ish.
 

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so last Friday we got the head installed and most things buttoned up. we had it running at idle for 20 minutes and then at 3200 RPM for ten minutes for a quick break-in. on saturday we got everything cleaned up and buttoned up and took it for a drive. it drives great! after a couple days of driving the check engine light came on.

we have a code of P0422

its described as catalyst efficiency low bank 1

computers explanation: the oxygen sensors monitor the catalytic converters ability to store oxygen.

Probable cause:
1) catalytic converter defective (failure possibly due to # 2, 3, or 4)
2) engine misfire or running condition
3) Large vacuum leak
4) engine oil leaking into exhaust valve guide seals, piston rings.

I have my money on large vacuum leak.
Any suggestions as to where to look first are much appreciated. I'm going to check the oil level, check the plugs for oil deposits or fouling, check the plug wires for proper installation, check for spark at each plug, and check tightness of exhaust flange bolts.
 

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QUOTE (Lacky01 @ Feb 2 2011, 03:53 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=397670
so last Friday we got the head installed and most things buttoned up. we had it running at idle for 20 minutes and then at 3200 RPM for ten minutes for a quick break-in. on saturday we got everything cleaned up and buttoned up and took it for a drive. it drives great! after a couple days of driving the check engine light came on.

we have a code of P0422

its described as catalyst efficiency low bank 1

computers explanation: the oxygen sensors monitor the catalytic converters ability to store oxygen.

Probable cause:
1) catalytic converter defective (failure possibly due to # 2, 3, or 4)
2) engine misfire or running condition
3) Large vacuum leak
4) engine oil leaking into exhaust valve guide seals, piston rings.

I have my money on large vacuum leak.
Any suggestions as to where to look first are much appreciated. I'm going to check the oil level, check the plugs for oil deposits or fouling, check the plug wires for proper installation, check for spark at each plug, and check tightness of exhaust flange bolts.


Since you had the intake manifold off, I'd spray around the intake and look for a change.
 

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I have a question mine did about the same thing I heard a rattle n it spins but my car doesn't start. I am going to have a mechanic look at it but what i want to know is if I blew the head gasket there is no coolant in my oil because u said it would be a milky or chocolate milk color and about how much am I going to spend to fix the head gasket if that's even the problem. Thanks.
 
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