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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have the 45w RMS Sony receiver, which means I will need to add a dedicated 12 gauge power cable direct to the battery.

I'm aware of the grommet entrance at the left of the footwell which seems ok, but using it means taking off a wheel to get access and then risking interference with other cables after the power cable is installed. It seems like there should be some way to get through the firewall, but I wonder if anyone has experience with this and can recommend the best method. Any grommets or bushing you used or bought after drilling new holes? And which bolt did you choose to ground to?

This looks promising: "Left side on the firewall there's a removable plug it's above your main wire harness" ... "On the inside of the car, it looks like a knock out plug, but you can't see it on the outside (engine side). I took a 3/8" drill bit and drilled in the circle on the inside. Lots of room to drill." From /mc-2006-2011-accent/91478-best-spot-run-power-wire-through-firewall.html
 

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I have the 45w RMS Sony receiver, which means I will need to add a dedicated 12 gauge power cable direct to the battery.

I'm aware of the grommet entrance at the left of the footwell which seems ok, but using it means taking off a wheel to get access and then risking interference with other cables after the power cable is installed. It seems like there should be some way to get through the firewall, but I wonder if anyone has experience with this and can recommend the best method. Any grommets or bushing you used or bought after drilling new holes? And which bolt did you choose to ground to?

This looks promising: "Left side on the firewall there's a removable plug it's above your main wire harness" ... "On the inside of the car, it looks like a knock out plug, but you can't see it on the outside (engine side). I took a 3/8" drill bit and drilled in the circle on the inside. Lots of room to drill." From /mc-2006-2011-accent/91478-best-spot-run-power-wire-through-firewall.html
Why not run it from the fuse box with an inline fuse holder? No need to go through the firewall.
 

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What are you running a power wire from the battery to a head unit for? That's not needed.

The only time you need to run a wire from the battery is for an amplifier.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
What are you running a power wire from the battery to a head unit for? That's not needed.

The only time you need to run a wire from the battery is for an amplifier.
This is the 45w RMS/100W max x4 Sony receiver and it requires a direct line for proper operation. It's basically a receiver+amp 2-in-1.
 

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Since you apparently have the specs for the unit, what is the fuse size? With that spec, you can google "DC ampacity chart" to find the correct wire size. I've a feeling Sony has overstated the actual power output of the unit. The maximum input current is much more important. If you don't have access to the actual specs, just look at the fuse installed, and use the appropriate size wire for the matching current and length of run.

If you run directly from the battery, be sure to install some sort of protection--fuse or circuit breaker--as near the battery as possible. This is important, as an aftermarket wire, on an aftermarket stereo is more likely to short out at some point, and you don't want it to take parts of your car out when/if it does. I imagine you can do as others have suggested and just run a wire from the fuse box, or better yet, use an adapter harness and simply use the existing wiring for the OE stereo.
 

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This is the 45w RMS/100W max x4 Sony receiver and it requires a direct line for proper operation. It's basically a receiver+amp 2-in-1.
You don't go by the power output, but by the current required. The easiest way to do that is to look at the fuse installed on the unit, and select wire size based on that. Google "DC ampacity" and use one of the many charts available to select wire size based on current needed, voltage (12 volts or next highest in the chart), and length of run.

Given the challenges of self-wiring (wire size, protection, length of run, skill level etc), I'd look into buying an adapter harness so you can plug your new 'high power' head unit into the existing wiring. I'd be surprised if it was insufficient
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
I used the left footwell rubber grommet. Installation was a pain but it all worked out.

Crutchfield helps with all of the accessory items that are required with stereo and speaker installations, so I had the correct harnesses and wiring kit sent with the stereo and speakers. Everything is working great now, so the next thing to do is install the speakers. I'm going to use the factory speaker wiring because it's convenient, but it's a large gauge. I shouldn't have too much of an issue with impedance or power loss but I have 14 gauge wire ready to install if I need to.

The Sony unit has a 15 amp fuse. However much Sony possibly may have overstated anything, the rated RMS per channel is 45w CTA-2006.
 
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