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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Two weeks ago, battery worked normally until a hot day, around
6.30 pm, motor didn´t start. Dead battery (in the morning stared with no problems).

Oncly a "clac clac clac" from starter motor with no enough power to move flywheel.

On Monday I changed the battery , but there was no idea original Ah capacity....
Stickers on OEM battery were erased and no idea which capacity (manual don´t say anything).

I installed a 72 AH capacity battery and runs fine , but the quiestion is

Why "sleeve" that comes with OEM Battery says 42 aH on one side?
Thanks.
 

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CCA is a product of the North American battery industry and really cannot be accurately measured.

AH on the other hand can be and should be the industry standard.

Maybe in other parts of the world they don't use the CCA terminology.
 

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CCA is a product of the North American battery industry and really cannot be accurately measured.

AH on the other hand can be and should be the industry standard.

Maybe in other parts of the world they don't use the CCA terminology.
??

Car batteries have one main function - to start the engine, for which CCA is an ideal rating figure - operating ancilliaries when parked is a subsidiary function.

CCA performance can be measured with a "drop-tester" - AFAIK CCA and MCA are used world-wide.

Ah cannot be tested accurately without wrecking a car battery - complete discharge prevents subsequent recovery !!

The problem with Ah is the variation of depth-of-discharge and the current rate - 10 hour and 20 hour tests give different figures.
 

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You don't completely discharge a battery to determine it's AH capacity. Only down to 1.75v per cell.
Which is the same voltage that CCA is tested down to.

It's NEVER good to take a car battery below 50% depth-of-discharge (DoD) - they're simply not designed for deep discharge - they're designed for high current on short durations - so that's how they should be tested and rated.
 

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Nobody is talking about discharging them under normal use except to start. It's just how you figure the capacity.
 

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Nobody is talking about discharging them under normal use except to start. It's just how you figure the capacity.
But knowing the Ah capacity has no benefit if "Nobody is ... discharging them".

On the other hand the CCA rating is very useful as we all start our cars in winter conditions.
 

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AH capacity is the standard of the battery industry, has been since, oh the days of Plante. It's how they originally form them when manufacturing and how the test them when manufacturing.

Sorry for the shortened sentence in the other post. Nobody is normally discharging batteries to their voltage cut off, unless doing a battery capacity test.
 

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The SAE CCA rating is used around the world despite not being an international ISO/ICE standard - there are variations, eg DIN CCA, JIS CCA, MCA but these can all be calculated from the SAE CCA.

As you move through types of battery, by application and internal design, from car starting, leisure, marine to traction (deep cycle) battery then CCA has less importance while Ah has more importance.

We clearly disagree - but I'm sure that CCA is far more useful than Ah for car battery choice - I also use VRLA marine batteries as leisure batteries so I'm well aware of the differences in internal construction as well as their different rating standards.
 

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OK, Not everyone has winter and not many can actually test the CCA rating of a battery.

I use Odyssey batteries myself in the Gen Coupe. The Hyundai OEMs in the Accent.
 

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OK, Not everyone has winter and not many can actually test the CCA rating of a battery.

I use Odyssey batteries myself in the Gen Coupe. The Hyundai OEMs in the Accent.
Every auto-electrician can "drop-test" a car battery, usually FoC.

For decades, GM have labelled all their car batteries in Europe with a nominal Ah, a RC rating, a SAE CCA rating and the DIN CCA rating.

The OE Hyundai battery in my Korea-built Santa Fe is just labelled with RC and CCA - Ah isn't shown.
 

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Sigh.......

How do I reliably test a battery for CCA? If it is rated at 600CCA for 30 seconds at 0F that takes some mighty big cables and metering equipment.

How many times have you heard or read that someone had their battery tested an it was OK only to have to replace the battery.

I don't care what kind of label they put on it. It is smooze.
 

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Isn't it all about that "feel good" moment when you make your battery purchase? The higher the CCA's, the warmer and fuzzier you feel about your decision?
 

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Sigh.......

How do I reliably test a battery for CCA? If it is rated at 600CCA for 30 seconds at 0F that takes some mighty big cables and metering equipment.

How many times have you heard or read that someone had their battery tested an it was OK only to have to replace the battery.

I don't care what kind of label they put on it. It is smooze.
Modern electronics - they can adjust for varying ambient temperature and measure the voltage drop after 10 secs and extrapolate - but yes the cables are bigger than any car!

I guess the oldest CM Santa Fe's are getting to the age when they might need a new battery - I don't think Japanese/Korean batteries are as well made as the AC-Delco we used to get on our Vauxhalls (GM Europe) - they'd go well into double figures of years.
 

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Yes they extrapolate or mathematically estimate or temperature correct.

When a battery is made they take a certain physically sized positive plate. This has so many grams of active material in it. Then the grids are made of differing alloys which affects the internal resistance of the battery.

This single plate is rated for so many AH at 25C.

Then then stack the plates to figure out the known desired AH output per one cell.

So if my Odyssey PC925 is rated at 28 AH, then assuming it has 10 positive plates per cell, that would mean each positive plate is capable of 2.8AH discharge per hour for 8 hours per plate at 25C until it drops to 1.75v. Now I do not know if the cells have 10 positive plates or not. It's just for easy math.

The temperature ratings and amperage have more to do with internal resistance, which is mainly the grid design and acid strength, ability to pass more or less electrons per second.

But all AH ratings whether PHCA (pulsed high current amps) CCA (cold cranking amps) HCA (hot cranking amps) or MCA (mean cranking amps) are based on the original design rating of the single positive plate times the amount of positive plates, then mathematically calculated and corrected for temperature.
 

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As to battery testing for cranking capacity (except for deep-cycle units), I believe the standard is a load sufficient to create a 1/2CCA draw, applied for 15 seconds, observing the voltage and temperature, applying a go/no-go based upon the resulting voltage.

Whether the owner needs to become concerned over AH or CCA depends a bit on the use model. Most drivers will be more concerned about CCA unless they are also using the battery to power equipment with the alternator shut down (engine off). At that point, AH can become more relevant, but it's not as common a need. But that kind of use can cause significant discharge, and that's not a good thing for a battery built for high CCA.

While plate surface area certainly impacts both AH and CCA, lowering the ISR is critical for high CCA, and upping the plate count to up the surface area really matters, but requires thinner plates to pack them all into the same amount of space. On the whole, thinner plates don't last as long, especially if the battery gets (accidentally, one would assume) deep cycled very many times.
 

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I keep coming back to this thread to see just how smart you guys really are. Truly impressive.

Old country boys like me will just have to rely on CCA's when standing in front of the store's battery display with our eyes all glazed over. :wink2:
 
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