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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just finished a long road trip. Fortunately, we are home, but now my 09 SFLE does not want to start. Upon turning the engine over, flashing displays on dashboard. It will start, after prodding, but I have everything turned off (radio, ac, map lights.) Note, the AC will turn on in "auto" mode. Battery and posts look good. Alternator looks good from what I can see. I did have the alternator and the bad gasket replaced under recall, a while back. The battery is just over two years. What should I ask, at the dealer, when I get it in? What does an alternator replace and labor generally cost, in the States, if you have any idea?

Thanks for input.
 

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Follow cable from battery negative post to fender there beside engine room fuse box...

Remove fuse box to access 2 cable end bolts at fender,,,, remove paint from fender so lug contacts clean steel,, slap some grease on it, assemble lug back in place..

Do same for ground strap down around left frame rail that heads off to transmission case..

Should be a 3rd ground around right strut tower area

We all should know (including Hyundai Motor) the PAINT IS AN INSULATOR,,, NOT A CONDUCTOR...

Couple quick probes around with DVOM should find source voltage around and about the positive and ground circuits as tested
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Follow cable from battery negative post to fender there beside engine room fuse box...

Remove fuse box to access 2 cable end bolts at fender,,,, remove paint from fender so lug contacts clean steel,, slap some grease on it, assemble lug back in place..

Do same for ground strap down around left frame rail that heads off to transmission case..

Should be a 3rd ground around right strut tower area

We all should know (including Hyundai Motor) the PAINT IS AN INSULATOR,,, NOT A CONDUCTOR...

Couple quick probes around with DVOM should find source voltage around and about the positive and ground circuits as tested
I have read your post on that fix. Sorry to say, I am not much of a mechanical guy, so I am a bit leery. I am excited that I replaced two shower cartridges, this weekend on two leaky showers. I shall take a look.
 

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Just finished a long road trip. Fortunately, we are home, but now my 09 SFLE does not want to start. Upon turning the engine over, flashing displays on dashboard. It will start, after prodding, but I have everything turned off (radio, ac, map lights.) Note, the AC will turn on in "auto" mode. Battery and posts look good. Alternator looks good from what I can see. I did have the alternator and the bad gasket replaced under recall, a while back. The battery is just over two years. What should I ask, at the dealer, when I get it in? What does an alternator replace and labor generally cost, in the States, if you have any idea?

Thanks for input.
You can't look at a battery post and say it is good
Nor can you look at a battery and say it is good too
Just go to auto parts store and get wire brush for battery post
Take cables off battery (note: if your radio needs a code then get it first)
Clean terminals on cable and battery
Remove battery and battery tray
Underneath, there should be where the negative battery cable connects to chassis
Take bolt off and clean area along with the bolt
Reassemble.

Measure voltage across battery terminal
Should read around 12.5 volts
Start engine and read voltage across battery terminals
Should read charging voltage around 14.5 volts
If the readings do not correlate then have suspect part tested
Auto parts store should do test free if you bring it into store
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
You can't look at a battery post and say it is good
Nor can you look at a battery and say it is good too
Just go to auto parts store and get wire brush for battery post
Take cables off battery (note: if your radio needs a code then get it first)
Clean terminals on cable and battery
Remove battery and battery tray
Underneath, there should be where the negative battery cable connects to chassis
Take bolt off and clean area along with the bolt
Reassemble.

Measure voltage across battery terminal
Should read around 12.5 volts
Start engine and read voltage across battery terminals
Should read charging voltage around 14.5 volts
If the readings do not correlate then have suspect part tested
Auto parts store should do test free if you bring it into store
I hear what you're saying. Upon visual inspection, no visible corrosion. I have done a little more research. Found a video showing how to find the areas where paint on the ground can be Dremeled off. Also, decided to actually turn on the headlights. Parking lights come on, but no headlights. Tackle it tomorrow.
 

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Last summer, I had an intermittent no crank, no start
Could not turn on headlights
Turning key to start/ crank engine did nothing
Wait a little while ...
got in and out of car a few times to inspect engine and battery
And the car would start up like nothing was wrong

I believe cleaning up the terminals and grounds got rid of the problem.
Looking at the terminals, you could not see anything wrong. No corrosion.
It isn't a difficult thing to do.
 

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2008 Accent 3 dr 5 sp manual; 2010 Genesis Coupe 2LT track 6 sp manual
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A voltmeter will tell you what's up. Should be +14V after starting and at 1500 rpm. The cheap 'plug in the lighter socket' voltmeters are good for this. You voltage should be around 14.3v after starting and driving. After about 15 minutes of highway driving it will then drop to around 13.8v as the battery is recharged. The hotter it is the lower the voltage.


But if you start the car and the voltage is less than 13.5v peak the alternator is on the way out.
 

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A voltmeter will tell you what's up.
A voltmeter will tell you what's up if you know where to connect and how to read what it's telling you.

Red Raspberry said:
But if you start the car and the voltage is less than 13.5v peak the alternator is on the way out.
Really?

How do you know the low voltage isn't the result of high resistance somewhere in the charging circuit? Maybe caused by paint under that ground connection sbr711 mentioned earlier.
 

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A voltmeter will tell you what's up if you know where to connect and how to read what it's telling you.


Really?

How do you know the low voltage isn't the result of high resistance somewhere in the charging circuit? Maybe caused by paint under that ground connection sbr711 mentioned earlier.
For someone who dose not know what they are doing the plug into the lighter socket voltmeters are easy peasy and on all the time.


Using a hand held voltmeter and with the engine running, if the voltage is different when measuring between the battery pos post and the negative post on the battery; and pos battery post and engine block for ground, you have a bad ground.


But even with a good ground, if the voltage reads below 13.5 the alternator is on the way out.
 

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For someone who dose not know what they are doing the plug into the lighter socket voltmeters are easy peasy and on all the time.
Yes, that might give you an indication that there is some sort of fault. It doesn't tell you what the fault is or what's causing though. The OP already knows he has a fault so I don't think a plug in voltmeter will help him at this point.

Red Raspberry said:
Using a hand held voltmeter and with the engine running, if the voltage is different when measuring between the battery pos post and the negative post on the battery; and pos battery post and engine block for ground, you have a bad ground.
Your right.

Red Raspberry said:
But even with a good ground, if the voltage reads below 13.5 the alternator is on the way out.
It doesn't matter how often you say that, it still doesn't make it true.
 

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Not sure what year hyundai started using variable voltage alternators, but just because the running voltage is less than 13.5 does NOT mean the alternator is not working.
 

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lildoc, sbr711 is talking about cleaning up the grounding points under the hood. There are generally always 3 points. one connects your battery to your frame, another connects the engine to the frame, and the third is from the transmission to frame. The first two are the most critical to keep clean. The point where the grounding cable connects to the frame of the car isn't generally the best method straight from the factory. Hyundai does not clean off the paint on the frame surface contact point before attaching the bolt.

If you remove the cable and bolt from the frame, sand down a point of contact on the frame where the cable will contact, reconnect, apply some grease, you will have clean ground cable points.

Otherwise, do you have any more details to share about the condition of the battery? Did you use it to power your car while the engine was off? What does the A/C in auto mode have to do with the starting failure?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
lildoc, sbr711 is talking about cleaning up the grounding points under the hood. There are generally always 3 points. one connects your battery to your frame, another connects the engine to the frame, and the third is from the transmission to frame. The first two are the most critical to keep clean. The point where the grounding cable connects to the frame of the car isn't generally the best method straight from the factory. Hyundai does not clean off the paint on the frame surface contact point before attaching the bolt.

If you remove the cable and bolt from the frame, sand down a point of contact on the frame where the cable will contact, reconnect, apply some grease, you will have clean ground cable points.
Thanks. I will look into doing that. Found a nice video on youtube that showed it already done, but not being done. Any tips on removing the fuse box?


Otherwise, do you have any more details to share about the condition of the battery? Did you use it to power your car while the engine was off? What does the A/C in auto mode have to do with the starting failure?
The battery was replaced in April 2016, so it isn't too old. I do not power the car with the engine off. As for the A/C in Auto Mode, I found it curious that, even though I turned off the A/C upon shutting the car down, when/if I was able to get the car to start (and, yes, I have been able to after a few cycles) the A/C would automatically be turned on, and in Auto Mode.


I took the vehicle in to have the system checked out. If it is the battery, as it was installed by dealer, I expect some prorate on the new battery. I mentioned the fact that paint was on the vehicle at the three points of ground contact. Met with a bit of quizzical looks and that if that was the problem, it should show up on all vehicles. Too early to debate them, plus the fact that I needed to get to work. Have yet to hear from them, but, because of this awesome board, I have some knowledge to present to them.
 

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No tips on removing your fuse box, as I have the elantra, and my ground points didn't require access underneath my fuse box.

I understand what you meant by the A/C comment now! It appears as if when your starting the car, the small amount of power required to keep some of the car settings in memory is losing power as well. That happened to me once with my old car when the battery terminals were a little too corroded. But that could be caused by the battery not working anymore either. With the information so far, I'd say it's safe to assume it's either the battery or the connections causing your problem.

When you are attempting to start the car, does it crank at least partially, or when you move the key to start does everything just go dark and you hear a click?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Diagnosis: failed battery. Replaced and on my way. I will look into grinding away that paint and having a better ground connection. That is for another day.


Thanks for all of the input. I value the information I have received here.
 
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