Hyundai Forums banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi last week as usual i tried to start the engine, but it did not . Then i found out that there is no joules in the battery. I boosted it with my another car it started right a way.
I left it idle for 45 min. just to get the battery charged and it did.
The next day when i tried to start the car there was no power on the battery i had to boost it and idled for 45 min.s and that day it was ok.. I double check the all the lights turned off and left it for a day. the next day the same problem the engine did not start. Can you all please help me how to solve this problem.
Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,851 Posts
Take is someplace like a Walmart and get a free charging system check. Walmart Maxx batteries are rated "Best Buy" by consumer reports and they install free.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
I've been having the same issue, as long as the car is on it charges the battery but when I leave it off for a few hrs it doesn't turn over, just tries to turn on but not enough juice is there. I linked it to my HID lights, I had to remove them and put the stand headlights on.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17,552 Posts
2003 XG 350... 7+ yr old battery ??

Try installing a fresh 24F battery....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
146 Posts
Assuming that the battery is clean, the battery terminals are not corroded, and the electrolyte level is good... you HAVE checked these, right?

If the battery does not have enough power to crank the car under normal circumstances, there are a couple of basic things that can happen. Either the battery is not being sufficiently charged, or something is allowing that charge to drain away. You say that it is charging back up, so it must be that something is allowing the charge to dissipate. It's either internal to the battery, or external - meaning some part of the wiring system connected to it. Internal usually means one or more shorted cells, and a new battery is in order. External (within the wiring) is most often something left on, like lights or some new stereo amp, etc., or a problem with the alternator. Sometimes one of the diodes inside the alternator can short out and provide a current path which will drain the battery. And most times, a single failed diode will still allow the alternator to charge when running. It doesn't charge as well, but you won't be able to tell that without test equipment.

Generally speaking, an auto parts store will be able to test for all of these problems quickly and easily, and most will do it for free. Park up front, next to the storefront, and just go in and ask.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
QUOTE (afterburn @ Jun 19 2010, 05:03 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=334495
I've been having the same issue, as long as the car is on it charges the battery but when I leave it off for a few hrs it doesn't turn over, just tries to turn on but not enough juice is there. I linked it to my HID lights, I had to remove them and put the stand headlights on.

But the problem is gone or still there..!!!!!!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Everybody is aiming at the battery and i will be replacing it today ( as a have second car i didn`t bother fixing it right away ) i `ll update you in a day or two.. thanks for the quick reply.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
62 Posts
QUOTE (A_Null @ Jun 20 2010, 12:30 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=334672
Assuming that the battery is clean, the battery terminals are not corroded, and the electrolyte level is good... you HAVE checked these, right?

If the battery does not have enough power to crank the car under normal circumstances, there are a couple of basic things that can happen. Either the battery is not being sufficiently charged, or something is allowing that charge to drain away. You say that it is charging back up, so it must be that something is allowing the charge to dissipate. It's either internal to the battery, or external - meaning some part of the wiring system connected to it. Internal usually means one or more shorted cells, and a new battery is in order. External (within the wiring) is most often something left on, like lights or some new stereo amp, etc., or a problem with the alternator. Sometimes one of the diodes inside the alternator can short out and provide a current path which will drain the battery. And most times, a single failed diode will still allow the alternator to charge when running. It doesn't charge as well, but you won't be able to tell that without test equipment.

Generally speaking, an auto parts store will be able to test for all of these problems quickly and easily, and most will do it for free. Park up front, next to the storefront, and just go in and ask.

Do You Think This Is My Problem ??? >>>> failed diode
My 04 XG 350 L With 22000 Miles On It Has A New Battery 2 In 2 Years ,, It Keeps Going Dead.

I Took Out The Add on Alarm , Thought That Was It But It Was Not It, Today The Batty Was Dead Again, So I Charged It Back Up To 100% And took A Drew Test With A Test Light, The Light Was Lit With Nothing On, I Then Started Pulling Fuses ,, And Fuse # 21 Under The Hood Was Called Power Fuse And The Test Light Went Out, I Started The Car With Out The Fuse And It Set 2 Codes
This Was The Codes P1118 Manifold Absolute Temperature Circuit Low Input,, P1178 ( open )

So I Plugged In My Tester And Cleared The Codes That I Set In There.

I Also Replaced That Fan Belt But That Was After The Battery Was Going Dead, So Its Not The Belt I Know Its Tight Also I Went With The Toque Specks
Any Help On This Problem ??

I Did Buy The Extended 10 year 100 Thousand Mile Warranty 0 Deductable

Thanks For Any Help
Harley03joe :57:

P. S. I'm An Auto Tech For O About 44 Years
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
62 Posts
QUOTE (A_Null @ Jun 20 2010, 12:30 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=334672
Assuming that the battery is clean, the battery terminals are not corroded, and the electrolyte level is good... you HAVE checked these, right?

If the battery does not have enough power to crank the car under normal circumstances, there are a couple of basic things that can happen. Either the battery is not being sufficiently charged, or something is allowing that charge to drain away. You say that it is charging back up, so it must be that something is allowing the charge to dissipate. It's either internal to the battery, or external - meaning some part of the wiring system connected to it. Internal usually means one or more shorted cells, and a new battery is in order. External (within the wiring) is most often something left on, like lights or some new stereo amp, etc., or a problem with the alternator. Sometimes one of the diodes inside the alternator can short out and provide a current path which will drain the battery. And most times, a single failed diode will still allow the alternator to charge when running. It doesn't charge as well, but you won't be able to tell that without test equipment.

Generally speaking, an auto parts store will be able to test for all of these problems quickly and easily, and most will do it for free. Park up front, next to the storefront, and just go in and ask.
This Is My #2 Battery In 2 Years,,, But When I Take Out The #21 Power Fuse The Drew Goes Away

Do You Think This Is My Problem ??? >>>> failed diode
My 04 XG 350 L With 22000 Miles On It Has A New Battery 2 In 2 Years ,, It Keeps Going Dead.

I Took Out The Add on Alarm , Thought That Was It But It Was Not It, Today The Batty Was Dead Again, So I Charged It Back Up To 100% And took A Drew Test With A Test Light, The Light Was Lit With Nothing On, I Then Started Pulling Fuses ,, And Fuse # 21 Under The Hood Was Called Power Fuse And The Test Light Went Out, I Started The Car With Out The Fuse And It Set 2 Codes
This Was The Codes P1118 Manifold Absolute Temperature Circuit Low Input,, P1178 ( open )

So I Plugged In My Tester And Cleared The Codes That I Set In There.

I Also Replaced That Fan Belt But That Was After The Battery Was Going Dead, So Its Not The Belt I Know Its Tight Also I Went With The Toque Specks
Any Help On This Problem ??

I Did Buy The Extended 10 year 100 Thousand Mile Warranty 0 Deductable

Thanks For Any Help
Harley03joe

P. S. I'm An Auto Tech For O About 44 Years
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Well, it's Sep 2010 and our 2006 Azera has lost not one but two batteries. last time in Nov 2008. Yes, the dealer replaced the battery in Nov 2008 for free. But this time the dealer says the battery, which by the math has been in the car less than two years, will only receive a 50% proration and we have to pay labor charges to R&R. I'm sorry, but two batteries lasting less than two years each is not acceptable. and if the only way I can get a 50% credit towards a new battery is to pay a labor R&R charge, well that's not a battery or product or company I wish to work with in the future. I may have misunderstood my wife (it's her car), but the dealer will only provide the 50% credit if they also R&R the battery.

Two years ago AAA said our battery was a dealer only item so we were pretty happy when we found out it was covered under warranty. Today I called Autozone, Napa, Kragen, Pep Boys, and Sears and they all have a battery for $70-$100 but the non prorated portion of the warranty is 1.5 to 2 years. So to hedge our bets I bought the AAA battery which has a 3 yr non prorated warranty (six years total) for $115 and they came to our car and replaced the battery no additional charge. I struggled a bit about paying $15-$45 more but if the car is killing the battery in 2 yrs then having the longer non prorated warranty might come in handy. And if it's just a shortcoming of the Hyundai battery we'll just be happy we have the AAA service support when we need it!
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top