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Hello everybody,

I recently finished installing my new audio system in my '13 Sonata Limited. It consists of JL ZR 650 in the front, C5 650 in the rear, and a JL HD 1200/1 and 600/4 amp. I am running 1800w RMS from the amps and the speakers total a rating of just over 1000w RMS. I fired up the system for a sound test and after some minor tuning, I noticed that my headlights and interior lights are slightly flickering on bass notes.

Before I did the install, I checked here on the forums and was assured that the battery / alternator combo would suffice for this setup; however, it doesn't look like that is the case. My question is: What should I do now? I haven't ran the car on the road yet, but I did rev the engine to about 2000rpm just to see if that would help out, but the lights still flickered. Am I going to need to buy a new battery and alternator? Or could I possibly benefit from the "Big 3" upgrade? I have heard about this upgrade, but I am not sure of what it consists of or how to do it on our vehicles. Any information you guys have, I would greatly appreciate, as I am a little worried to take this thing out on the road as is, but I do need to get this taken care of sooner than later! Thanks in advance!
 

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LOL..so you ask the same group that you implied gave you bad info? 1800 watts rms? You do know that your amps are only about 70% efficient? Maybe 80%..maybe. Yup, so at 1000 watts youre pushing 700- to maybe 800, the rest is dissipated as heat. Sigh, On page two of your older thread I even said to check the amperage draw which you even realized was more than the stock alternator can handle. Did you ever use that 2 feet of 0g to upgrade the chassis ground? What did your knowledgable friend suggest to do? So Im not going to imply that we did our systems right and yours has an opportunity for improvement but its car audio and many factors effect the final outcome. Why can two exact systems produce one with noise issues and another not? I dont know what the 2013 stock alternator puts out, but mine is 110 amps. I had the HD1200 before and I think its rated at 100 amps not sure about the 600/4 as I had a 900/5 ( with no dimming) before switching to audison but I will assume around 50-70 amps...give or take? So yes you knew that you were walking into it with too much draw from the system..so having a plan "B" should have already been ready to go. Right? I did, but didnt need it. Oh, yeah, I actually told you to keep the extra cable then use it later if you needed it on that thread. And yes your car is safe to drive. And honestly, we dont know what the quality of the initial install is as well. How did you crimp the 0g to the terminal rings? Did you solder them like you should have or did you beat it down with a hammer? How is your ground attached? Did you grind away paint to bare metal? Did you just shoot a a self tapping screw for the ground or did you use a nice bolt and nut. God, did you attach it to the seat belt bolt? LOL. Honestly, how did you set the gains? With a DMM or did you do it by ear? Whats the input voltage from the deck and finally at the amps? Are there any line drivers in the system, signal processors? If you had to turn the dial on your gains up to match voltage then you werent getting enough to the amps to begin with. What type of enclosure did you finally go with? As a smaller sealed or under sized sealed will beg for more power than say a ported or transmission line. What kind of music does it dim with and at what volumes? Did you know that the big 3 upgrade runs the potential for dimming due to the extra current that it allows? See what I mean? Help us out to help you. Take some time and explain whats been done, how its been done, whats officially in the system, how its set up, what was used to set it up with, etc. A doctor cant help you if you just walk in and say youre not feeling good .You asked about the battery and alternator before. No...an extra battery or cap wont help here, right? Why? Because like you said you wont be playing it with the engine off, so rule out the battery, the cap is a joke because it only stores short bursts of juice to begin with and if youre overpowering the alternator then the cap will not be fully charged anyways as once the car is started the alternator runs the car, not the battery. So before we upgrade your cables at the battery and alternator and match them to the 0g youre using for the system or buying a HO alternator go back through your install, check all connections paying attention to your grounds, solder those big cables to the terminals for a strong connection. Use a DMM to set system gains ( google if youre unfamiliar) with the eq off and system playing flat. Still dimming? Test alternator, could be faulty right? Still overpowered but being faulty doesnt help either. Still dimming? Upgrade those cables ( google again tons of videos on you tube) Still dimming? Lets get that alternator...which aint cheap
 

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I am running 1800w RMS from the amps and the speakers total a rating of just over 1000w RMS.
Two suggestions:
TURN IT DOWN.
It's **** to get old and be DEAF. :eek:
It's even worse to be young and partially deaf because it just gets worse over time.

Then, before you run out and spend a LOT of money on electrical system "upgrades"......on a new car where the changes might void your warranty on lots of things that are electrical......do some actual voltage measurements at the battery.

IF.....the voltage at the battery never goes below 12.8-13.0 volts, that means that the present system has enough capacity to keep the battery from discharging. Make the test with headlights and AC going.

Then tell people that you hooked it up to make the lights do that on purpose. :D
 

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I'm with ricekake on the accusal. Read the last paragraph of my last post to you in the following thread.

http://www.hyundai-forums.com/222-yf-2011-sonata-i45/164362-speaker-brackets-baffles-adapters-4.html

I exactly stated what you are saying we did not.

We are not here to do the research and make decisions for you. We are just sharing our experience. I can understand you wanted you system up and running as soon as possible and with out issues. But this is part of the game. You can also expect to be tuning your system for years to come. It ends only when you sell your car :)


Now, according to crutchfield JL HD 1200/1 needs a 100 amp fuse and 600/4 requiers a 50 amp. As stated by ricekake, playing music should never reach this current however you can reach about 40% (normal) - 60% (higher). 60% equals 90amps. Lets add to this your engine current requirement + A/C + Electric Assist Steering + Headlights/foglights +++. You are way above the alternators current capacity. This is a crude calculation but it tells you to expect problems as such. First try the suggestions from above posters before dishing out more money.

Running your car is fine just unplug the 1200/1 until you find an alternative. 600/4 should be OK with the stock alternator. (reasonable music volume ;)
 

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I'm with ricekake on the accusal. Read the last paragraph of my last post to you in the following thread.

http://www.hyundai-forums.com/222-yf-2011-sonata-i45/164362-speaker-brackets-baffles-adapters-4.html

I exactly stated what you are saying we did not.

We are not here to do the research and make decisions for you. We are just sharing our experience. I can understand you wanted you system up and running as soon as possible and with out issues. But this is part of the game. You can also expect to be tuning your system for years to come. It ends only when you sell your car :)


Now, according to crutchfield JL HD 1200/1 needs a 100 amp fuse and 600/4 requiers a 50 amp. As stated by ricekake, playing music should never reach this current however you can reach about 40% (normal) - 60% (higher). 60% equals 90amps. Lets add to this your engine current requirement + A/C + Electric Assist Steering + Headlights/foglights +++. You are way above the alternators current capacity. This is a crude calculation but it tells you to expect problems as such. First try the suggestions from above posters before dishing out more money.

Running your car is fine just unplug the 1200/1 until you find an alternative. 600/4 should be OK with the stock alternator. (reasonable music volume ;)
Ditto... I was going to post 30%-40% since music isnt a constant draw like running the ac and i agree with the 60% higher. OMG...soooo right on the tuning for years to come. Its never quite right and when it gets close..bam...new system installed. LOL
 

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Ditto... I was going to post 30%-40% since music isnt a constant draw like running the ac and i agree with the 60% higher. OMG...soooo right on the tuning for years to come. Its never quite right and when it gets close..bam...new system installed. LOL
Yeap! Its a passionate torture :)
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
LOL..so you ask the same group that you implied gave you bad info?
I'm not implying I was given bad info. I'm asking only because I am completely uncertain as to what I might have done incorrectly in my install that would be causing the dimming!

You do know that your amps are only about 70% efficient? Maybe 80%..maybe. Yup, so at 1000 watts youre pushing 700- to maybe 800, the rest is dissipated as heat.
Yes, I do know that. Hence why I am so confused!

Did you ever use that 2 feet of 0g to upgrade the chassis ground? What did your knowledgable friend suggest to do?
I think you're misunderstanding my intentions. I'm just trying to get absolute clarification as to what I will need to do to resolve the issue, because I was under the impression that there was a good chance I wouldn't need to do anything to the electrical system. I have yet to speak to my friend about this, as he has gone away for the week. However, I recall RobSpeedGLS mentioning that a 2000w RMS system would be "no big deal" for our cars, and that the big 3 upgrade was not necessary as it had essentially already been done. He also said that he managed a 2300w RMS system on his car with no problem!

I see what you're saying about no two systems being the same; that totally makes sense. You are right in that the 1200/1 requires a 100A fuse; the 600/4 requires a 50A fuse. I figured I would be right on the bubble; that definitely seems to be the case since the dimming seems to go away with 2 or 3 clicks to the volume counter-clockwise on the head-unit.

I do have a plan B; upgrading the electrical isn't an issue for me, I just wanted to hear what others had to say before I made a definitive plan of action. If I can save money or time, I certainly would like to! Who wouldn't? Which brings me to ground wire... I am going to upgrade that first, since it did come with my kit; however, I am still not 100% certain as to what to do with the 2 wires that plug into the factory negative battery terminal. Do you know? Would I just cut them from the plug and then wrap them together and screw into a new terminal? I just don't want to do anything wrong...

My crimping was all done perfectly; yes, they were soldered and have an excellent physical and chemical connection. But like I said, I have yet to install that. I figure that should be my first plan of action, yeah? The ground was done perfectly as well; paint scratched away directly on chassis and used a couple of star washers with a conductive bolt. The contact is superb.

I will definitely be going SUPER easy on it while I drive the car, until I know for certain how to resolve the issue, so thanks for the clarification.

As of right now, the gains were just set by ear. I will be setting them as per JL's recommendations once my friend returns. Perhaps this might remedy the issue? Gains are at about 10 o'clock on the 600/4 and 11 o'clock on the 1200/1. Nothing sounds too loud, no distortion, nothing like that. It all sounds great. :)

Input voltage from the head-unit is 4 volts. Should I have gone with 6 volts, do you think? No other equipment is connected in the system.

I ended up getting the 10w7ae-3ohm sub and sealed enclosure directly from JL - built to their specifications. Seems to dim at 75% volume on the head-unit (30/40) on a little bit "boomier" rock music. For example, "Just Like Lightning" by Joe Satriani.

I did not know that about the big three! That is definitely why I am coming to you guys with all of your knowledge before I attempt to remedy the issue on my own! I recall you mentioning that it could be a noise issue, but that doesn't seem to be the problem. I guess I will start with your suggestions; I will correctly set the gains until I go ahead and begin upgrading components. I really do appreciate you taking the time to help me through this; I will go through each of those steps in the next few coming days and see what happens!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Two suggestions:
TURN IT DOWN.Then, before you run out and spend a LOT of money on electrical system "upgrades"......on a new car where the changes might void your warranty on lots of things that are electrical......do some actual voltage measurements at the battery.
IF.....the voltage at the battery never goes below 12.8-13.0 volts, that means that the present system has enough capacity to keep the battery from discharging. Make the test with headlights and AC going.
It really isn't that loud! My girlfriend, and 60 year old father thought it was a suitable listening volume. I will certainly do this when my friend returns in the next week, thank you very much!
 

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I'm with ricekake on the accusal. Read the last paragraph of my last post to you in the following thread.

http://www.hyundai-forums.com/222-yf-2011-sonata-i45/164362-speaker-brackets-baffles-adapters-4.html

I exactly stated what you are saying we did not.

We are not here to do the research and make decisions for you. We are just sharing our experience. I can understand you wanted you system up and running as soon as possible and with out issues. But this is part of the game. You can also expect to be tuning your system for years to come. It ends only when you sell your car :)


Now, according to crutchfield JL HD 1200/1 needs a 100 amp fuse and 600/4 requiers a 50 amp. As stated by ricekake, playing music should never reach this current however you can reach about 40% (normal) - 60% (higher). 60% equals 90amps. Lets add to this your engine current requirement + A/C + Electric Assist Steering + Headlights/foglights +++. You are way above the alternators current capacity. This is a crude calculation but it tells you to expect problems as such. First try the suggestions from above posters before dishing out more money.

Running your car is fine just unplug the 1200/1 until you find an alternative. 600/4 should be OK with the stock alternator. (reasonable music volume ;)
I totally missed your post! I am so sorry! I don't mean to be accusative at all; rather, I hope to insist that I am extremely unfamiliar with this type of work and simply want to make absolute certain that I have done things correctly! I certainly understand that the amount of research, work, and patience is all part of the process; which is why I value your guys' insight so much! I would much rather be doing things correctly and safely than just getting it up and running, hence why I have been trying to make sure I don't cut any corners! I'm sorry if I rely to heavily on you guys! I guess it is in my nature to ask a lot of questions; especially when I get a bit confused! For example, many of you feel that a cap is not the answer, but some very well do! :D I will certainly follow all of your guys' suggestions; I will be sure to get back to you on what is successful. I really do appreciate your time and help; I am REALLY sorry I missed your post!
 

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I just wanted to hear what others had to say before I made a definitive plan of action. If I can save money or time, I certainly would like to!
What others SAY should have no bearing on what YOU do....necessarily.

GET a voltmeter and TEST the battery voltage and charging voltage and SEE if there really is a problem with YOUR specific setup.

Don't get sucked into doing something ...mmmmm....ill-advised here.

Enthusiasts in a narrow field are often called "nuts" for a reason. :D
 

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Just a thought,

I didn't read the previous post, but I see no mention of a Capacitor?
I agree with Easy that it may be time to break out the voltmeter and take some readings, but I also suggest that you're getting into an area I'd recommend a Cap. Why? Because playing music has very big swings in volume, which constantly changes the electrical needs across your wiring. By installing a cap before your amplifiers, it helps smooth out the electrical between your battery and the amps, and the fluctuation point then generally occurs only between the capacitor and amplifiers (unless overdriving the capacitor). This is just a thought, and people may disagree with it. Just something I like to do to keep power fluctuation affecting as few systems as possible.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Easy Rider, I very much agree with you. I like to collect as much input from as many different people before I decide to do something. :) I will be testing the battery and alternator voltages tomorrow. By the way, does anyone know the specs on our alternator? I am finding very differing information and can't find it on hmaservice.

Turbata, I have been told that a capacitor acts as a sort of "band-aid" in a situation like this. Like, it may very well cause the headlights to no longer dim, but there will still be a problem with the electrical side of things. Plus, I'm not really sure I have room for it! Do you know how I might be able to upgrade my alternator? Perhaps Hyundai has an option available, or might I have to get it rewound?
 

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What others SAY should have no bearing on what YOU do....necessarily.

GET a voltmeter and TEST the battery voltage and charging voltage and SEE if there really is a problem with YOUR specific setup.

Don't get sucked into doing something ...mmmmm....ill-advised here.

Enthusiasts in a narrow field are often called "nuts" for a reason. :D
You are too late Easy Rider, we have him.
Ruggie, welcome to the "Nut Side" :wacko::00000732:

And its true, we are all enthusiasts, otherwise we would not be here on this forum.
 

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I know this is an old post, but just wanted to comment. I have a 4 channel Hifonics Brutus amp running my Infinity Kappa component interior speakers, and a Hifonics Brutus 1200.1 running to Alpine Type R's. My speakers are running at 1ohm, so I am pushing close to 1500w RMS and I have no issues with lights dimming. Stock battery and alternator. I don't know the difference between our systems, but mine runs fine.
 
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