Hyundai Forums banner

1 - 20 of 48 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Since Last week I have been getting the following codes from my 2013 Hyundai Tucson GLS - FWD

P0036
P0140
P2096
P2271

They all point to Bank1 Sensor 2. I cleared the codes using torque but they came back so there could be a problem in the sensor. Though I dont feel any jerks on the care while driving and it has only 37K on the odometer.

I am attaching the graphs that I got from Torque. Any help will be appreciated.

The image from Non torque application is when the car was idling cold for maybe 5 mins. The torque graph is after I drove 15-20 mins inside city. The sharp drop in graph is when I released foot from the GAS.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Drives : Nissan NV200 Flies : Rans S6ES
Joined
·
15,312 Posts
If the O2 heater isn't working the sensor wont work properly until it gets warmed up by the exhaust gas. That can take a significant amount of time, particularly when it's the downstream sensor. So your actual fault code is likely to be P0036 and the other codes are just symptoms of the failed heater circuit.
 

·
Registered
Drives : Nissan NV200 Flies : Rans S6ES
Joined
·
15,312 Posts
In my experience, 9 times out of 10 the heater fault is within the sensor itself so the chances are good a new sensor will cure the problem.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
7,039 Posts
Thanks AutoSpark for quick reply.

So replacing the O2 sensor should be the best bet.
He has it right.

Let us know if you need tips in getting the sensor out.

Let us know what you get after replacement.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Just ordered the o2 sensor from Clubplug.ca. Should be in the mailbox by next week.

I was also able to locate the coupler under the passenger seat. I was trying to open the sensor without lifting but couldn't give it enough torque to turn. Will get some jack stands and then trey to work on it.

Will keep everyone posted.
 

·
Registered
2007 Honda CRV
Joined
·
4,582 Posts
Living in New York state, I tried to remove and replace the down stream O2 sensor myself
Couldn't do it. Finally had to take it to a garage. Oxy-acetylene torch and plumber's pipe wrench
They took it out. There was twisted metal where the threads use to be.
Then had to get a thread chaser to put in the new O2 sensor.

I see you live in Winnipeg.
Wish you luck
Please let us know how it turns out
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17,552 Posts
Little touch of antiseize and just snug the sensor,, no need for gorilla torque for install of Ox sensor
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,180 Posts
37k miles hopefully it comes out intact. I took my 150k mile one out of my Accent and it stripped the threads off the sensor leaving them in the O2 bung. Not fun.


If you can get to the connector, or ECU if you know the pins, it easy to see if the heater is still good with an ohm meter.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
I can get to the connector. Which leads should be for the heater. I tried two white ones I got variable resistance. Then I tried the other two my meter didnt move. But I could be trying the wrong pair.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
7,039 Posts
I can get to the connector. Which leads should be for the heater. I tried two white ones I got variable resistance. Then I tried the other two my meter didnt move. But I could be trying the wrong pair.
You should buy a Haynes manual or try this.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,180 Posts
Two grounds and the heater, other is the variable voltage back to the ECU. Test frost to find a ground from one of the pins to the body. Then use that pin for the ground to touch the other leads. The other ground should show 0 ohms or whatever you leads resistance is.


P0136 says the circuit is open so the heater element is blown or the wiring going to the ECU is damaged.
 

Attachments

·
Banned
Joined
·
7,039 Posts
That reminds me did you test the heater relay?
 

·
Registered
Drives : Nissan NV200 Flies : Rans S6ES
Joined
·
15,312 Posts
Two grounds and the heater, other is the variable voltage back to the ECU.
Two grounds? Where did you get that from?

I think you'll find there is one ground (sensor signal ground). The heater doesn't have a ground. It's has a PWM control signal that just happens to be on the ground side of the circuit.

That reminds me did you test the heater relay?
There isn't a heater relay. The heater is supplied power from the MAIN relay. That's the relay that supplies power to the PCM + cam & crank sensors.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
7,039 Posts
Two grounds? Where did you get that from?

There isn't a heater relay. The heater is supplied power from the MAIN relay. That's the relay that supplies power to the PCM + cam & crank sensors.
Brain fart...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,065 Posts
So your actual fault code is likely to be P0036 and the other codes are just symptoms of the failed heater circuit.

Yeah, the error codes are arranged so the lowest number always should be addressed first.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Just an update.

I cleared the codes and I got the CEL back on with after driving around 100KMs.

The codes are
Confirmed
P0140

Pending
P2096
P2271

No P0036 this time.

I am still waiting for the sensor to arrive. I should get it by Friday.

Any other thoughts guys.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
7,039 Posts
Just an update.

I cleared the codes and I got the CEL back on with after driving around 100KMs.

The codes are
Confirmed
P0140

Pending
P2096
P2271

No P0036 this time.

I am still waiting for the sensor to arrive. I should get it by Friday.

Any other thoughts guys.
Throw the sensor in and clear codes....see what happens.
 
1 - 20 of 48 Posts
Top