FIRST OF ALL,be sure to post a Follow-up post detailing the repair /issues you may run into.
(Make a (detailed) Follow-Up-Post like YOU would like to run across while searching)
I have not had the pleasure of that job yet.
1: KIA mfg'd the 2007-2009 Entourage, it's the same as a Kia Sedona (2nd generation, produced from 2006-2012) Any info that pertains to the Kia Sedona will apply to the Entourage.
(Buying parts thru KIA vs Hyundai is cheaper... You are getting them direct from mfg btw....
A/C compressor magnetic field clutch:
For the EXACT same part.
2: Get the FACTORY SERVICE INFO:
For those that don't trust direct links, OR if the links below go bad.
Create a account on both sites, Once you do that you can download /view TSB"S (Technical Service Bulletins), the FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL and view any records warranty work done on the car.
(Records of "paid" work done on car has o be sourced thu dealer which did repair)
Anyhow the service manual should detail the process. (Then again not, if not I'd suggest visiting a local auto parts store and seeing what kind of manuals they offer.)
* Factory shop manuals assume you are working at a dealership and have access to factory tools that might be needed.
3rd party shop manuals assume you don't have access to specialize tools and can offer some "workarounds" to doing xyz repair.
I'd suggest having access to both factory and aftermarket manuals.
If not as a rule you get to the spark plugs from the bottom of the car, OR if wipermotor /arm linkage box at bottom of windshield is in the way remove that and access them from the top.
Regardless, have compressed air to blow debris from around sparkplugs!!!!, and make sure sealing surface of spark plug were it contacts head is CLEAN when installing plugs!
If area is dirty (or not) use WD-40, soak area prior to removing or loosing plugs, blow out with compressed air, rinse and repeat so to speak SEVERAL times prior to loosening plugs, then back off the plugs slightly to break them loose and blow out any remaining debris..
(You don't want debris /dirt /sand in cylinder, and more importantly you don't want debris /direct /sand between plug sealing contact area and head)
PS: I'd be tempted to put a light coating of Anti-Seize on the threads as well - Note that doing such will throw off torque specs (lub meaning about 25% LESS torque is needed!, and changes the heat range of the plug slightly - So be EASY on the Anti-Seize.)
You can Google for other opinions on this, EG: How Anti-Seize changes torque specs and why you should use it on a aluminum head.