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Discussion Starter #1
Hey, I have a 2011 hyundai sonata and im at 60,000 miles. I see it says to change my ATF now and I had some questions about it. Can I only use the Hyundai SP-IV fluid or are there other brands I can use? I hope there are because its like 20 bucks a quart and I cant really afford that but I really would like to change the fluid. Also, do I just drain and refill it and then Im done or do I have to flush the system? I thought it was just a drain and then refill but I saw somewhere that you also have to flush everything which I dont know how to do. Thanks guys I hope you all can help me
 

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Darin and fill get you approx 6qt.

Use Hyundai fluid only.. the SPH-IV (00232-19045) oil been updated to a new number, and labeled SP4-M (00232-19057),, come in grey bottle with yellow cap.

I think we still carry both oil until Hyundai run out ?? .. we been using the newer oil for our Warranty repairs lately
 

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What the owner's manual says to use is "MICHANG ATF SP-IV, SK ATF SP-IV, NOCA ATF SP-IV, HYUNDAI genuine ATF SP-IV or other brands meeting the above specification approved by Hyundai Motor Co."

I have seen other brands of ATF that say they meet the SP-IV specs so I would imagine they would be fine to use.
 

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Likely yes.. I have not bother to check retail price across our counter yet if customer wanted a bottle of the -19057 oil
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Would it cause damage using a different brand? why are you saying I need to use the hyundai kind? I usually wouldnt care but the price is so expensive
 

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I believe the 60,000 mile fluid change only appears on the severe schedule. I live in a hot climate and drove my '11 GLS pretty hard on many occaisions. I paid the dealership to change it at 60k, but after it was done the Hyundai mechanic confided in me that it looked really good and suggested that it wasn't necessary yet. In the ops case, maybe leaving the original Hyundai fluid in for many more miles would be better than switching to another oil now?
 

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I believe the 60,000 mile fluid change only appears on the severe schedule. I live in a hot climate and drove my '11 GLS pretty hard on many occaisions. I paid the dealership to change it at 60k, but after it was done the Hyundai mechanic confided in me that it looked really good and suggested that it wasn't necessary yet. In the ops case, maybe leaving the original Hyundai fluid in for many more miles would be better than switching to another oil now?
100k warranty so no way I'll ever change it even if I keep the car past 60k.
 

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I believe the 60,000 mile fluid change only appears on the severe schedule. I live in a hot climate and drove my '11 GLS pretty hard on many occaisions. I paid the dealership to change it at 60k, but after it was done the Hyundai mechanic confided in me that it looked really good and suggested that it wasn't necessary yet. In the ops case, maybe leaving the original Hyundai fluid in for many more miles would be better than switching to another oil now?
Definitely only for severe schedule so unless you're doing primarily stop and go miles, no need to change. Now if you want to keep the car long beyond 100k, probably a good idea to change.
 

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To follow up on Valvoline MaxLife DEX/MERC ATF, here is the link for a letter put out by the company giving a more complete list of applications for which this ATF can be used:

http://www.valvoline.com/valint/international/english/static_document/MaxLife_ATF_Rev_2013.08.08.pdf

Note that Valvoline asserts that the product meets the Hyundai SP-II, SP-III, SP-IV, SPH-IV, and SP4-M standards.

I, for one, would like to know just what ingredients in the Hyundai SP4-M ATF make it so good that it's worth $20 a quart. Better still, what makes the OEM ATF better than products like Valvoline's. I want to see some good, solid, technical data showing how superior the OEM fluid is.
 

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I just did a drain and fill on my tranny yesterday. I used Valvoline Import Multi-Vehicle ($6.49 a quart at Advanced Auto Parts). It meets the SP-IV requirement. You will not void your warranty by using an ATF that meets the SP-IV requirement. If Hyundai required you to only use their fluid they would have to provide it for free.

I have 56,000 miles on my Sonata. I plan on doing drain and fills every 50,000 miles as I plan to keep the car to upwards of 200,000 miles. For 56,000 miles the fluid that came out actually looked pretty good but I did have quite a bit of metal shavings/particles on the magnetic drain plug. I'm going to be sending off a sample of the used fluid for analysis. It drained about 3.5qts and I put in 4.75qts when all said and done. I believe the tranny was a little low out of the factory.
 

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00232-19057 (SP4-M) is $19.15/qt across our part counter.
 

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y'all the sph-iv kia part is the same stuff by analysis on bitog and significantly cheaper... and yeah, I paid for the hyundai fairy dust too... redline d-4 goes in next.
 

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@Knightro2

How difficult a job was it to drain and refill? Any DIY guides you may have followed that worked well for you?
 

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Another vote for the Valvoline import fluid. Just did my transmission today and it is like night and day. Hyundai can take a flying leap with their $20/qt fluid.
 

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@Knightro2

How difficult a job was it to drain and refill? Any DIY guides you may have followed that worked well for you?
Dysan

The job is not that hard, a little messy, but nothing so involved that you cannot do. There is a thread going of members who have completed the job, with pics, videos, and ideas on how to do it easiest.
 

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@Knightro2

How difficult a job was it to drain and refill? Any DIY guides you may have followed that worked well for you?
Check out this thread: http://www.hyundai-forums.com/222-y...177-atf-drain-fill-pics-those-interested.html

The OP used a contraption to put the fluid back in the level check hole. But doing it through the top part where it is supposed to go in is easy. You just have to take the air duct out to get to it which is just two screws. Like I said in a post in that thread, the hardest part is getting your car up on 4 jack stands and the underbelly cover off.
 

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Also doing the refill through the injection port is kind of a pain, since the air needs to displace the fluid out of the bottle and into the transaxle. Many have been using a pinhole in the bottle to speed up flow, but I found that loosening the connection between the bottle and connection to your fill contraption will allow in enough air without getting a spill.

See my post in the thread--it has a picture of my improvised device.
 
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