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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2017 Hyundai Elantra SE with only 30K miles on it. The transmission has been kicking for a few months. I took it to the dealership as it’s under warranty and they said there are no codes. They reset the transmission adaptive learning system, but this did not help. I take excellent care of this car (no prior owners), have had all maintenance done on time or early, so this car with 30K miles should NOT be hard shifting. I’m also getting no codes on my scanner at home. What could the issue be?

I had the fluid changed, but all that did was seemingly add a tiny bit more response when accelerating. Still hard shifting though (kicking). Seems to shift almost perfectly once the engine is hot after about 10-15 minutes, but before that, very noticeable kicking. Please Help!
 

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I wonder if it would be worth monitoring the temp sensor data to confirm it's logical in the trans?
 

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No brains in this transmission, just eight solenoid valves, brains are in the ECU, transmitted to the transmission via the neutral safety switch, maybe that is misadjusted. How does manual shifting work?

If hydraulic pressure in the transmission is the cause, only repair is to replace it. That's what the shop manual says.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
No brains in this transmission, just eight solenoid valves, brains are in the ECU, transmitted to the transmission via the neutral safety switch, maybe that is misadjusted. How does manual shifting work?

If hydraulic pressure in the transmission is the cause, only repair is to replace it. That's what the shop manual says.
Ya know, I’ve been starting to think it has to be an electronic issue, because my friend, a mechanic, put Lucas Oil transmission fix in it, and when that didn’t help, he added ShudderFixx. Also did not help. So I’ve been starting to wonder if it’s something outside the actual transmission.

In hindsight, the issue started around the time I used the manual “shiftronic” shifting because I was driving in an area with a lot of steep hills. I didn’t do anything to cause damage, though. I shifted up at appropriate times, about 3000 RPM, and downshifted properly.

But this was also around the time when I found a bunch of water sitting behind my glove box, due to a clogged AC drain line. So I wonder if maybe all that water got some electrical parts wet.

I wouldn’t be surprised if the ECU was the issue because the dealership is giving me the runaround, as if they don’t want to do the work and that they just hope my warranty expires before the tranny completely breaks down.

Could the absence of any codes be due to a bad EUC?
 

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Most codes are opens or shorts, out of tolerance deals with more like a miss fire.

With my 2017 Limited can reflash all the BCM's, four of them at home, even update the GPS with our Limited hooked up to our WiFi, but EPA regulations ran by idiots insists your dealers does this.

Should only take your dealer a couple of minutes of this time to reflash your ECU or PCM, use both abbreciations in the shop manual for the engine and transmission computer.

I am assuming this problem is recent, we manually downshift all the time, really saves on the gas. Stepping on the gas raises the engine speed relieving stress on the transmission components. Then gently recently it. Takes years of practice and everything last a long longer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Most codes are opens or shorts, out of tolerance deals with more like a miss fire.

With my 2017 Limited can reflash all the BCM's, four of them at home, even update the GPS with our Limited hooked up to our WiFi, but EPA regulations ran by idiots insists your dealers does this.

Should only take your dealer a couple of minutes of this time to reflash your ECU or PCM, use both abbreciations in the shop manual for the engine and transmission computer.

I am assuming this problem is recent, we manually downshift all the time, really saves on the gas. Stepping on the gas raises the engine speed relieving stress on the transmission components. Then gently recently it. Takes years of practice and everything last a long longer.
If I take it to the dealer, will they reflash the ECU or PCM if I tell them the transmission is hard shifting? It’s under warranty still.
 

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If I take it to the dealer, will they reflash the ECU or PCM if I tell them the transmission is hard shifting? It’s under warranty still.
In theory at least, they should test drive it and determine the problem. Some are egotistical and don't like to be told what the problem is. Another means is to call Hyundai, but you may have to ask to speak to the person you are talking to, to ask to speak to their supervisor 12 times in a roll to get someone with brains and authority.
 

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8 Solenoid operated valves to be de-energized and energized in combinations electronically. All must be de-energized first before energizing the new combination or else will get rough shifts.

Is possible the valves are sticking that would occur about mixing transmission fluids. Also frugal, but because I am will stick with OEM fluids. Cheaper than creating problems.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
In theory at least, they should test drive it and determine the problem. Some are egotistical and don't like to be told what the problem is. Another means is to call Hyundai, but you may have to ask to speak to the person you are talking to, to ask to speak to their supervisor 12 times in a roll to get someone with brains and authority.
They have test driven it, but claim they can’t feel the kicking (BS). They are egotistical that’s for sure. I tried to explain what the problem was and he was like “no that has nothing to do with it.” Some people...ugh
8 Solenoid operated valves to be de-energized and energized in combinations electronically. All must be de-energized first before energizing the new combination or else will get rough shifts.

Is possible the valves are sticking that would occur about mixing transmission fluids. Also frugal, but because I am will stick with OEM fluids. Cheaper than creating problems.
I’ve used both additives in other cars and they’ve always helped, or I wouldn’t use them
 

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...my friend, a mechanic, put Lucas Oil transmission fix in it, and when that didn’t help, he added ShudderFixx. Also did not help. ...
not surprised either of those did not help. With modern transmissions, it's usually not a good idea to put additives in the transmission.
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
not surprised either of those did not help. With modern transmissions, it's usually not a good idea to put additives in the transmission.
If I had better options from the dealership I would gladly try them first
 

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I have a 2017 Hyundai Elantra SE with only 30K miles on it. The transmission has been kicking for a few months. I took it to the dealership as it’s under warranty and they said there are no codes. They reset the transmission adaptive learning system, but this did not help. I take excellent care of this car (no prior owners), have had all maintenance done on time or early, so this car with 30K miles should NOT be hard shifting. I’m also getting no codes on my scanner at home. What could the issue be?

I had the fluid changed, but all that did was seemingly add a tiny bit more response when accelerating. Still hard shifting though (kicking). Seems to shift almost perfectly once the engine is hot after about 10-15 minutes, but before that, very noticeable kicking. Please Help!

Purchased this car new with no hard shifting problems? Even with severe driving manual states to replace the AT fluild at 62K miles, not even close to that number. Why did you change the fluid? Were you having problems? Did you use OEM fluids or something else? Did you have a problem or did you create one? If me, wouldn't touch it, shop manual states, only check the AT for external leaks that I do, but if it starts acting up, going back to the dealer. Its their car until the warranty runs out and that is still a long way off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Purchased this car new with no hard shifting problems? Even with severe driving manual states to replace the AT fluild at 62K miles, not even close to that number. Why did you change the fluid? Were you having problems? Did you use OEM fluids or something else? Did you have a problem or did you create one? If me, wouldn't touch it, shop manual states, only check the AT for external leaks that I do, but if it starts acting up, going back to the dealer. Its their car until the warranty runs out and that is still a long way off.
Yes, bought it new with no problems. I had the dealership change the fluid because it was hard shifting but not showing any codes, and at 34K miles I wanted it changed because 1) obviously it was shifting roughly, and 2) these “sealed transmissions” don’t actually go 100K miles without getting filthy and worn down. I’ve had sealed transmissions where the fluid was very bad at 30K miles.

What do you mean did I “create a problem”? I drive this car cautiously and have had all maintenance done on time if not early. when the transmission started jerking a little bit I did take it back to the dealership. They said there are no codes. My scanner also shows no codes. So they changed the fluid (with premium factory fluid) but it’s still kicking. They say they can’t find anything wrong with it, but I have a feeling they know the only solution is to replace it, and they’re hoping my warranty ends before it dies. There is no other explanation.
 

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Yes, bought it new with no problems. I had the dealership change the fluid because it was hard shifting but not showing any codes, and at 34K miles I wanted it changed because 1) obviously it was shifting roughly, and 2) these “sealed transmissions” don’t actually go 100K miles without getting filthy and worn down. I’ve had sealed transmissions where the fluid was very bad at 30K miles.

What do you mean did I “create a problem”? I drive this car cautiously and have had all maintenance done on time if not early. when the transmission started jerking a little bit I did take it back to the dealership. They said there are no codes. My scanner also shows no codes. So they changed the fluid (with premium factory fluid) but it’s still kicking. They say they can’t find anything wrong with it, but I have a feeling they know the only solution is to replace it, and they’re hoping my warranty ends before it dies. There is no other explanation.

According to the shop manual, is another throwaway part, only solution is to replace it. Is part of the 100,000 mile 10 year warranty, whichever comes first. Another throwaway part is that EPA throwaway electric power steering, demanded that so wrecking companies did not have to recycle a pint of power steering fluid.

Thanks to the DOT, largest throwaway part is the entire unibody.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
According to the shop manual, is another throwaway part, only solution is to replace it. Is part of the 100,000 mile 10 year warranty, whichever comes first. Another throwaway part is that EPA throwaway electric power steering, demanded that so wrecking companies did not have to recycle a pint of power steering fluid.

Thanks to the DOT, largest throwaway part is the entire unibody.
I have no idea what you’re talking about now...
 

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If you're in a area with multiple dealers, I'd suggest taking it to another one. You are not required to go to the one that sold the car to you. Also, make sure you arrive early, and let the car cool
back down after you get there, so the problem might show back up to them. I've had to change dealerships because of a brake issue. 2nd one, fixed everything the FIRST time!
 

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interesting conversation in that transmission fluid change or additives
did not help with the issues. hope that this is not some common issues
with hyundai.
 
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