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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Good day to all,

H E L P please!
Request info about a year model 2000, Atos Prime 1,1L, manual trans. The engine start VERY well, rev perfect from idle to higher rev without a problem. When it is time to move the car, trans engage and releasing the clutch, the engine seem to die like idle in between somewhere, then hesitation, a little of jerking THEN acceleration arrive but very, v e r y slowly the car is moving forward. Then for every single up-shift, same story; engine almost die, lot of hesitations, dont want to rev and to carry his load, then slowly, very slowly acceleration happen. At intersection/cross road when we have to slow down then re-accelerate, same problem. Engine do not want to rev and cary his own load when in gear but rev perfect when in neutral.
When in neutral, engine rev p e r f e c t l y, from idle to higher rev with NO hesitations or any dead spot. Problem happen ONLY when it is time to move.
When on the road at constant speed engine is ok but the moment there is wind or a coastal to go up, it slowly loose speed and hesitation begin again.
Air filter and fuel filter are both new. Car is a 2000 year model with 232,000km and so far NO problem until this. We need the car to go to work and with this problem there is a HUGE security concern.
Thank in advance for your support and any info for diagnosis and resolve this problem
Best regards to all
Nello
 

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Hello, i am also looking for a solution for this, so far i have changed sparkplugs, wires, coilpack as well as MAP sensor. Still the same. any ideas?
 

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idle control valve, on top of the engine intake manifold, undo the two bolts that are hex head and have screwdriver cross slots, look inside unit, you will see a rotating shaft that will probalby be dirty and dry.
clean with lots of WD40 or carb cleaner until you can rotate the shaft with a small screwdriver.
This should solve your problem bueno !
 

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Hi can anyone help I have Amica and the engin is making sticking /knocking sound in idle and seems like it wants to cut out! I have check all fluid and coolent levels and all is fine what else could this be please help many thanks
 

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Hi can anyone help I have Amica and the engin is making sticking /knocking sound in idle and seems like it wants to cut out! I have check all fluid and coolent levels and all is fine what else could this be please help many thanks
You need to check the engine valve gap clearance at mount of silinder head,you must remove plastic head cover [filter box] first, then you will see camshaft,rocker arm and bolt adjuster of engine valve.

Normally gap clearance of valve in cold condition is 0.2mm ,adjust gap using filler/gap gauge via bolt adjuster if needed .

CMIIW....:)
 

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idle control valve, on top of the engine intake manifold, undo the two bolts that are hex head and have screwdriver cross slots, look inside unit, you will see a rotating shaft that will probalby be dirty and dry.
clean with lots of WD40 or carb cleaner until you can rotate the shaft with a small screwdriver.
This should solve your problem bueno !
Hey this tip helped me a lot, thank you lovejoy!
 

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My Hyundai amica 2008 has the code 0420 coming up.How do you know if it's the cat or the sensor.Dont want to be investing in a new cat only for the same problem to occur.Any advice or anybody who has had the same problem wud be appreciated.
 

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How do you know if it's the cat or the sensor.
If you have a decent scan tool you could look at the output voltage of both O2 sensors. The upstream sensor voltage should switch up and down while the downstream one should output a fairly steady voltage. If the downstream is switching like the upstream, that's one indication that the problem is the CAT.

Or you could just replace the sensor and see what happens, since that's a whole lot cheaper than the CAT.
 

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can some one send me a pic of the idle control valve and it's location pls
The idle control valve lives on top of the throttle body. It has two bolts that are hex head and have screwdriver cross slots...
445839
 

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OK thanks i'ved cleansed it but the problem is still there and worsening :(
Hi Lynette, I have tried that one myself and the problem did improve considerably. You need to actually open the thingy, spray a carb clean all over the insides of it, its a bit of a dirty job but you'll notice the parts won't be sticky anymore. Mine had some "black goo" preventing the parts to work properly, and cleaning everything effectively helped them to perform normally (albeit not as good as replacing with a new part I believe).
 
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