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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi All

I would like to find out if this is a common problem with the Hyundai Atos 1.1 engine.
The cambelt drive gear which is located on the crankshaft does not have a keyway locator. The crankshaft end has "flattened" sides which the drive gear slides onto. (I hope this makes sense)
Over time this gear's inner portion develops play between it and the crank. This results in a wobble of the gear which worsens over time. This wobble causes damage to the gear and the shoulder on the crankshaft. The gear progessively "moves" toward the engine and results in the belt pulleys touching the camblet cover and the cambelt gear touching the crankshaft end cover. Also the crank timing sensor gets damaged by the timing plate which is on the crankshaft and eventually touches the sensor.

I brought this to the attention of a local Hyundai dealership who acknowledges this is a common problem with this engine and recommends the gear be replaced at regular intervals to prevent this failure.
Needless to say they accept no liabilty for the poor design. .. :mad:

Anyone else experience this?
 

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Seen this problem a couple of times, new crankshaft and all that goes with it.
same engine set-up as in the Kia picanto.
Just replace the gear with every timing belt change.
 

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Yes, I also have a worn pulley and amaged crank. Has anyone come up with a cheaper remedy as I've been told the only solution is to replace the crank and pulley.
 

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Here in Cape Town I've discovered an engineering firm that re-machines the crack without removing the engine. Works out much cheaper. Andrel.
 

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Here in Cape Town I've discovered an engineering firm that re-machines the crack without removing the engine. Works out much cheaper. Andrel.
Hi Andre :)

sorry,I want to ask...because not clear yet

How about this problem solution...welding,changing or.....explaine please

Thx
 

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mr k mclennan

I have 2006 atos prime 1.1. I am on my third cambelt pulley. I was told i need to replace my crank solve the problem. nice hey. Very stupid Design, for all that torque on the two slots.
 

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Hi Gerald - I am in Pretoria. Just bought a 2010 Atos with 57,000kms on the clock. I saw your post on damaged crankshaft.
what symptoms did you have? Mine has a slight "hiccup" or skips a beat say every 5 seconds.
 

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I own a 2008 1.1 Getz and the crankshaft timing belt drive gear got forced into the engine block causing the timing plate to destroy the CPS - which is why I went looking for this forum

It would appear that everyone is just accepting this as one of those things instead of asking WHY ?

Why is the TB drive gear and timing plate getting forced forward

After three days of deliberation - Umming and Ahhing - I believe I figured it out

The crankshaft is too short . . . there is NO stop for the securing bolt . . . the tighter the bolt (impact wrench) the more pressure is excerted on the TB drive gear

Insert a steel washer AFTER the main pulley BEFORE the second pulley spacer allowing it to tighten AGAINST the end of the crankshaft then when the four bolts are tightened everything is held in its intended position :)

I was fortunate to be able to find a stock washer almost the perfect thickness BUT too big an OD . . . two choices . . . either machine the washer OD to fit the spacer or machine the spacer to accept the washer in it's recess . . . WITHOUT increasing the depth of the recess

On checking I found my timing plate to be no longer running true so I replaced it rather than risk destroying another CPS . . . there is only 1mm air gap between the two

Friends and family cannot believe Hyundai made such an almighty cockup without putting their handup and that it is ME who is wrong

Whatever . . .

My solution is a PERMENANT fix :)
 

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Well OK but I think there is only one engine choice for the Amica? 1.1 for the 2006-09 and 1.0 before that. Is this a serious problem for most owners or only if you are unlucky? My sister was looking at getting a 1.1 Amica.

BTW. I don't understand your 'solution'. The problem seems to be caused by the timing gear NOT being clamped tight enough and moving causing wear on the crank but you are saying to not put pressure on it?? Also BEFORE and AFTER are a bit vague; depends from which end you start!
 

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Here in Cape Town I've discovered an engineering firm that re-machines the crack without removing the engine. Works out much cheaper. Andrel.
Andrel could you pls give the address of those engineers. Thanks
I own a 2008 1.1 Getz and the crankshaft timing belt drive gear got forced into the engine block causing the timing plate to destroy the CPS - which is why I went looking for this forum

It would appear that everyone is just accepting this as one of those things instead of asking WHY ?

Why is the TB drive gear and timing plate getting forced forward

After three days of deliberation - Umming and Ahhing - I believe I figured it out

The crankshaft is too short . . . there is NO stop for the securing bolt . . . the tighter the bolt (impact wrench) the more pressure is excerted on the TB drive gear

Insert a steel washer AFTER the main pulley BEFORE the second pulley spacer allowing it to tighten AGAINST the end of the crankshaft then when the four bolts are tightened everything is held in its intended position :)

I was fortunate to be able to find a stock washer almost the perfect thickness BUT too big an OD . . . two choices . . . either machine the washer OD to fit the spacer or machine the spacer to accept the washer in it's recess . . . WITHOUT increasing the depth of the recess

On checking I found my timing plate to be no longer running true so I replaced it rather than risk destroying another CPS . . . there is only 1mm air gap between the two

Friends and family cannot believe Hyundai made such an almighty cockup without putting their handup and that it is ME who is wrong

Whatever . . .

My solution is a PERMENANT fix :)
Thanks Nephets
 
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