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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Ok guys I'm interested in buying the ark high flow cat it saids optima witch I know also means sonata everything is the same I understand but I would like to know has anyone had any experience with this item? Here is the link Kia Optima | Resonated High Flow Cat Test Pipe 2011-ON | 2.0T/2.4L please I would love some feed back!

Also there is the Megan test pipe if anyone one has worked with that let me know!
 

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Ok guys I'm interested in buying the ark high flow cat it saids optima witch I know also means sonata everything is the same I understand but I would like to know has anyone had any experience with this item? Here is the link Kia Optima | Resonated High Flow Cat Test Pipe 2011-ON | 2.0T/2.4L please I would love some feed back!

Also there is the Megan test pipe if anyone one has worked with that let me know!
You do realize what you are looking at is basically a CAT delete to be used "OFF ROAD ONLY" and New York has both a safety and emissions testing including OBD-II check.

Larry
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
You do realize what you are looking at is basically a CAT delete to be used "OFF ROAD ONLY" and New York has both a safety and emissions testing including OBD-II check.

Larry
I know about emissions I'm not stupid ill put the oem at back on when I gotta get tested again no big deal
 

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It says a 17increase in HP?! I'm very curious and want to know if u get this
 

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When I had my 370Z, Ark Performance was always back logged with orders. I bought a set for my Z. You get a quality item and great support from Ark. The pipe you are looking at will get the numbers you see. It will also be loud! You may want to think about some sound barrier. Most Z owners used a lot of it, but to each their own. Tony is the owner and he has the desire to be the best of what he does. Quality and customer support is not sacrificed at all. My system took about 500-750 miles to break in and get the drone to go away.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
When I had my 370Z, Ark Performance was always back logged with orders. I bought a set for my Z. You get a quality item and great support from Ark. The pipe you are looking at will get the numbers you see. It will also be loud! You may want to think about some sound barrier. Most Z owners used a lot of it, but to each their own. Tony is the owner and he has the desire to be the best of what he does. Quality and customer support is not sacrificed at all. My system took about 500-750 miles to break in and get the drone to go away.
I know ark is a very good company but I wanna know if anyone has this on there sonata or optima not 370... Lol but thanks for the info
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
So what is the solution for the post cat sensor for emissions?
You will fail emissions but when I gotta go again in a year ill just put the oem cat back on then take it off after
 

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You'll be staring at a check engine light with a P0420 catalyst inefficiency code.
There are "fixes" for this but they don't always work and can introduce other issues. On some cars with aftermarket tuning available this can be "tuned" out but I don't think there is such an option available for Hyundai.
Assuming you just swap out the cat pipe and do nothing else, once the original cat is reinstalled it will be necessary to clear the code (either with a scan tool or by pulling the battery) and then drive the car enough to reset all the readiness monitors to "completed". Failure to complete the procedure will result in a failed OBDII emission test.
 

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You'll be staring at a check engine light with a P0420 catalyst inefficiency code.
There are "fixes" for this but they don't always work and can introduce other issues. On some cars with aftermarket tuning available this can be "tuned" out but I don't think there is such an option available for Hyundai.
Assuming you just swap out the cat pipe and do nothing else, once the original cat is reinstalled it will be necessary to clear the code (either with a scan tool or by pulling the battery) and then drive the car enough to reset all the readiness monitors to "completed". Failure to complete the procedure will result in a failed OBDII emission test.
Oh, I am not going to do this. I was pointing the question to the OP who probably doesn't know there is more to it than swapping out a mechanical piece and you cant just zip tie the sensor out of the way.

My Sonata isn't a race car and wont do the 1/4 in 13.8 seconds... ;). It will however transport my family pretty nift-ly. :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
What about the CEL/MIL light that will illuminate which will be stored in ODBII memory? This is above visual inspection.
Put the oem cat back on a week before you go and drive it about 200 miles and you can pass emissions
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Oh, I am not going to do this. I was pointing the question to the OP who probably doesn't know there is more to it than swapping out a mechanical piece and you cant just zip tie the sensor out of the way.

My Sonata isn't a race car and wont do the 1/4 in 13.8 seconds... ;). It will however transport my family pretty nift-ly. :D
Trust me I know I work for Honda and Hyundai dealerships I'm not stupid I know what has to be done I know a person I work with who has a velosteor and has a test pipe and puts the oem cat back on a week before his inspection and passed no issue
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
You'll be staring at a check engine light with a P0420 catalyst inefficiency code.
There are "fixes" for this but they don't always work and can introduce other issues. On some cars with aftermarket tuning available this can be "tuned" out but I don't think there is such an option available for Hyundai.
Assuming you just swap out the cat pipe and do nothing else, once the original cat is reinstalled it will be necessary to clear the code (either with a scan tool or by pulling the battery) and then drive the car enough to reset all the readiness monitors to "completed". Failure to complete the procedure will result in a failed OBDII emission test.
there 3 options for a dyno tune so I'm not worried about that and like I stated 4 different times I know I'm not going to pass emissions im not worried about that and I know my cel will be on I don't need you to google me the code I'm asking if anyone has delt with this item before I don't need the obvious reasons why you won't get it, I want it and I know what comes alone when I install it
 

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You bought the wrong car dude. You need to go get something you can swap a B-xx into so that you can go rat around in.

Putting in a test pipe complete with a CEL so you can get a "claimed" 17HP back (which is very hard to believe) is beyond silly. I doubt it will ever get dyno'd pre/post to show what gains are truly had by it.

And you say you work at a dealership but what is your position? I have some posts that show some fairly interesting comments that seem to indicate you are not a main stream tech. To be specific is deals with part modification and how it affects warranty.

*Insert un-snappy comeback attached to this post*
 

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Excuse my math (analyst here) but a 17hp increase is not all that much for our cars. Also I question the presumed HP increase.

Assuming he has a std (NON-SE or TURBO) Sonata, the car is ~198HP bone stock.
With 20% losses due to transmission and friction, we are left with ~158HP to the wheels.

Adding the 17HP pipe, the math turns into
198+17 = 215HP
Adjusting for transmission and frictional losses
215 * (1-20%) = 215 * 80% = 172 HP

172-158= 14 additional HP

Not worth it IMHO
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Has nothing to do with hp I didn't buy the wrong car sorry I can do whatever I like to my car I'm here just asking a simple question if anyone has it and your being a prick about it this is why I don't go on this website any more cause of people like you bearcats just cause your probably a 50 year old guy who hates his wife job and life don't take it out on the Internet cause if I was in front of you i would slap you up so don't think your all tuff on the computer
 

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Has nothing to do with hp I didn't buy the wrong car sorry I can do whatever I like to my car I'm here just asking a simple question if anyone has it and your being a prick about it this is why I don't go on this website any more cause of people like you bearcats just cause your probably a 50 year old guy who hates his wife job and life don't take it out on the Internet cause if I was in front of you i would slap you up so don't think your all tuff on the computer
TA DA! :D

And if you are not doing it for horsepower, what are you doing it for? Needless to say I do have experience in the area.

And people need to know that you WILL pop a code. It WILL affect performance (read REDUCE power) as most cars will go into safe mode (not to be confused with limp mode) which means it will not use the dynamic tables to give best performance; it will use a static row to protect the mainstream components. At minimum you will need to put on simulators to fake out the sensor into thinking its compliant not only with the gas stream but with temperature as well. On most vehicles the last sensor is the most important. Maybe AAAACent can weigh in on that.

There is the slap it on method and then there is the correct way. The correct way will not pop a code and has been thoughtfully planned out.

And I do appreciate being called out as a "tuff" guy and e-thug. Made me smile. :D Fear24 posted up a picture of me if you want to go look for it.
 

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I think he's a young man who desires to have a fast car and is attempting to improve the performance of his car with low cost modifications. Ricer would be an appropriate pejorative but we won't go there. :)
 

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OK, guys. Keep it civil. More name calling and this thread gets shut down (at a minimum).
 
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