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You may have damaged the carrier bearing on the half shaft.
Try to check it for movement .

Or the axel was not balanced well.
Any chance you know what part number Item 5 is on the diagram you shared in the first post?

Edit: it is "Intermediate Shaft - 49560-C2350"
 

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Last post was March 28th.... intermediate shaft was on back order since then. Ha.

I hope that the shafts arent seized again.....

Lets see what tomorrow brings! Happy fathers day to ya'll with kids. The struggle is real.

Table Wood Bicycle part Audio equipment Automotive tire
 

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What were the symptoms of your torn boot, and is full replacement of the axle the only remedy? Long time no see though Xaran, glad you're still active here.
 

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2017 Sonata Sport 2.0T
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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
What were the symptoms of your torn boot, and is full replacement of the axle the only remedy? Long time no see though Xaran, glad you're still active here.
Same here SJ408, I enjoyed following your build / s. Still in the SD area?

With my CV, all it was on both were torn outside boots. I noticed them during routine oil changes and inspections. The drivers side went a few months before the passenger side. I caught them early and they were just starting to throw some grease out into the wheel well and underside.

Complete axle replacement is not the only choice but IMO easier and makes sense and for the time and $ involved I felt better to replace the whole thing.

In the old days (1970-1980) we always replaced the boot and repacked the CV. But after looking around for boot replacement kits for the Sonata there are not many choices and run $40 +. Hyundai OEM from online dealers like hyundaioemparts.com (Del Rey Hyundai in Florida) the boot alone was $71 (Genuine Outer Boot for 2015-2017 Hyundai Sonata | Part# 49581-C1300 | Hyundai OEM Parts Direct). and with the time to dissemble and pack it plus the CV had over 150,000 miles on them. It only made sense to replace the hole axle CV and boots with a new aftermarket. I got mine from CarID but Rock Auto , Amazon and there are a few on EBay OEM Hyundai all in the $100-150 range.

There are a couple sellers on EBay that sell both right and left axle for $278 or just 1 for the $ 150 range.

The drivers side is a breeze to change the passenger side was a bear. Read my thread, if you can get in there and soak with penetrating oil (I used PB Blaster) a couple days before and I also drilled some little holes into the carrier bearing metal dust cover. The problem is on the passenger side with the 2.0T they use a half shaft to minimize torque steer , keeping axle lengths the same and the outer slide area with splines is not lubricated.
 

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Same here SJ408, I enjoyed following your build / s. Still in the SD area?

With my CV, all it was on both were torn outside boots. I noticed them during routine oil changes and inspections. The drivers side went a few months before the passenger side. I caught them early and they were just starting to throw some grease out into the wheel well and underside.

Complete axle replacement is not the only choice but IMO easier and makes sense and for the time and $ involved I felt better to replace the whole thing.

In the old days (1970-1980) we always replaced the boot and repacked the CV. But after looking around for boot replacement kits for the Sonata there are not many choices and run $40 +. Hyundai OEM from online dealers like hyundaioemparts.com (Del Rey Hyundai in Florida) the boot alone was $71 (Genuine Outer Boot for 2015-2017 Hyundai Sonata | Part# 49581-C1300 | Hyundai OEM Parts Direct). and with the time to dissemble and pack it plus the CV had over 150,000 miles on them. It only made sense to replace the hole axle CV and boots with a new aftermarket. I got mine from CarID but Rock Auto , Amazon and there are a few on EBay OEM Hyundai all in the $100-150 range.

There are a couple sellers on EBay that sell both right and left axle for $278 or just 1 for the $ 150 range.

The drivers side is a breeze to change the passenger side was a bear. Read my thread, if you can get in there and soak with penetrating oil (I used PB Blaster) a couple days before and I also drilled some little holes into the carrier bearing metal dust cover. The problem is on the passenger side with the 2.0T they use a half shaft to minimize torque steer , keeping axle lengths the same and the outer slide area with splines is not lubricated.
Yeah still in SD, but moving up to the Bay Area in a few months. Just getting back into throwing stuff at my car now so i might be updating my thread. Adding an AEM strut bar and most likely gonna order a Progress 22mm rear sway bar.

What mileage is your car at now? And did you ever end up getting a tune for your Sonata? Been thinking about it too, but still weary on the off chance that a dealer may be able to figure out or trace a tune being installed, whether a piggy back JB4 or Lap3 Pro, or the full Lap3 spare ECU tune.

I guess I should take a peek at my CV boot to see how they're doing, although I'm only at ~40,000 miles. At what point do they usually "wear" out?
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Yeah still in SD, but moving up to the Bay Area in a few months. Just getting back into throwing stuff at my car now so i might be updating my thread. Adding an AEM strut bar and most likely gonna order a Progress 22mm rear sway bar.

What mileage is your car at now? And did you ever end up getting a tune for your Sonata? Been thinking about it too, but still weary on the off chance that a dealer may be able to figure out or trace a tune being installed, whether a piggy back JB4 or Lap3 Pro, or the full Lap3 spare ECU tune.

I guess I should take a peek at my CV boot to see how they're doing, although I'm only at ~40,000 miles. At what point do they usually "wear" out?
SJ408
Im at just over 166,000 miles now since May 2017 (about 5 yr = 33,000 a year).
I have a friend / neighbor that owns the local Indy tire Shop and has an 2018 Optima with the JB 4 on it and it is noticeable improvement in overall power. I was on the fence for quite a while with getting one. But with all of the Theta II seizing I decided that it wasn't worth taking the chance that it would /could add to mine seizing and needing a new engine. I really dont think the dealer can spot it since it is a piggy back unit. Burger says it cant show up on a diagnostic as long as you physically remove it before taking to the dealer.
Overall for a $21,000 sedan compared to all the $ 45-60,000 cars I drove before this (Infiniti G37s, M45s, MBZ C, Lincoln LS,Ford SHO) Im still happy with how mine runs when I get on it and use the paddles (which is most of the time). So i never did get a J , but that is he unit I would buy. I did have a spark plug break the tip and porcelain at150, 000 and it damaged the exhaust valve so I had to pull the head and do a valve job. But overall the car still runs great , no oil use, good compression, is driven hard daily. The truharts and springs now have over 100,000 miles on them and are good. I swapped out rotors for R1 Drilled and ceramic pads. I still have the maintaince thread going Mileage on your LF Sonata last update was #454.

My CV boots went at about 125,000 drivers side and 150,000 passenger.

Nice to have you back on the forum, did you finish school (if I remember you were in school).
Let us know about the rear sway bar. That is something Iven wanted to do since new to help the understeer.
 

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33k per year, that's crazy :) How is it that you do so much driving? Business or pleasure??

My drivers side boot went at ~64k... but it has been lowered a generous amount for three years now. After this whole ordeal, I kinda wish I had only replaced the drivers side... ha. But I wanted to do new on both sides "new". The whole process is down to like 45mins per side now!

I have to contact RockAuto to see if they would give me a refund. I mean, this was defective out of the box, but is it possible I did something wrong? Maybe. Smacking it in too hard, using the axle itself? I just think that if these are to handle 250ft-lbs of torque just from the engine (on the bearings) it should handle me putting them in. Anyway, tomorrow I will know if it was the driver, or passengers side that was defective. Only got to put on the "new" new drivers side tonight.

When I installed the new intermediate shaft last weekend, I made sure to put grease on the splines. But damn, it was hard getting that off again.... after like 15 smacks of the slide hammer my eyes rolled into the back of my head. You gotta be kidding me. But then maybe about 5 hits more, it was out. So, safe to say, if the drivers side is stock you'll need to drill into the seal washer and spray penetrant. Sheesh.

On the other note, I am a bit partial to the JB4 as I've used it on previous vehicles. Great product, much tuning potential. But I have the Lap3 UncleChip rather than JB4 because I got it on sale. Meh. But surprisingly it is better than stock... especially between 3k - 5k. After that it's pretty much stock (91 Octane setting). Considering how they're priced right now.... get the JB4.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
33k per year, that's crazy :) How is it that you do so much driving? Business or pleasure??

My drivers side boot went at ~64k... but it has been lowered a generous amount for three years now. After this whole ordeal, I kinda wish I had only replaced the drivers side... ha. But I wanted to do new on both sides "new". The whole process is down to like 45mins per side now!

I have to contact RockAuto to see if they would give me a refund. I mean, this was defective out of the box, but is it possible I did something wrong? Maybe. Smacking it in too hard, using the axle itself? I just think that if these are to handle 250ft-lbs of torque just from the engine (on the bearings) it should handle me putting them in. Anyway, tomorrow I will know if it was the driver, or passengers side that was defective. Only got to put on the "new" new drivers side tonight.

When I installed the new intermediate shaft last weekend, I made sure to put grease on the splines. But damn, it was hard getting that off again.... after like 15 smacks of the slide hammer my eyes rolled into the back of my head. You gotta be kidding me. But then maybe about 5 hits more, it was out. So, safe to say, if the drivers side is stock you'll need to drill into the seal washer and spray penetrant. Sheesh.

On the other note, I am a bit partial to the JB4 as I've used it on previous vehicles. Great product, much tuning potential. But I have the Lap3 UncleChip rather than JB4 because I got it on sale. Meh. But surprisingly it is better than stock... especially between 3k - 5k. After that it's pretty much stock (91 Octane setting). Considering how they're priced right now.... get the JB4.
135 miles a day work commute at least 5 days a week and sometimes on call on nights or weekends.

So you went and ordered 2 new axels and are going to exchange them to see if one of the other replacements was bad? let us know how it works out and if Rock Auto will refund.

On the passenger side I used antisieze instead of just grease, Im hoping that if I ever need to pull it again it will help it come out easier. but Ill bet it is still stuck. The way that it is designed sets it up for seizure, they should have put a zerk fitting on the splined shaft so it could be lubed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Well… no good. New intermediate shaft and cv axles did not fix the wobble under hard acceleration.

Your guess is as good as mine….
It all started when you replaced the axel ? No signs before?

Seems like it would have to be something touched when replacing the axel, but sometimes just a coincidence?

I guess Id start with the easy stuff, wheels balanced and hubs and hub bearings, rotors and did you pull the strut or just disconnect from lower control arm and then pull strut out of the way? If you did (which is how I do it) you may have stressed the "strut top mount or cap" and that could allow some movement under hard acceleration or even braking.

Are motor and trans mounts good?

After that Id think transmission?
 

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Thanks for those ideas. I am just flabbergasted and can’t think. But you’re right.

Could I have damaged the wheel hub using an impact gun to remove the old axle nut? (used a torque wrench to tighten the new nut)

I did not remove the struts… just pushed them aside. I have new pillow ball mounts for my coilovers but cannot remove the nut to take off the old ones… always something…

I was also thinking about motor mounts, but that would have to be a crazy coincidence.

Getting a balance, rotate and alignment tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Thanks for those ideas. I am just flabbergasted and can’t think. But you’re right.

Could I have damaged the wheel hub using an impact gun to remove the old axle nut? (used a torque wrench to tighten the new nut)

I did not remove the struts… just pushed them aside. I have new pillow ball mounts for my coilovers but cannot remove the nut to take off the old ones… always something…

I was also thinking about motor mounts, but that would have to be a crazy coincidence.

Getting a balance, rotate and alignment tomorrow.
Keep us up to date on the progress. These are the kind of problems that once repaired the info can really help other members
 

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Thanks xaran for the encouragement.

After a bit of driving to and from work a few times now, feeling it out, the vibrations are actually less, but still there. I can get up to like 10psi boost before feeling it now. It’s noticeable at higher rpm’s, and lower rpm’s. Between 2.5k to 4.5k it’s not bad.

After the alignment it was no different. I reseated the wheels and wheel spacers last night. No change. It’s worth noting that the wheel spacers have never vibrated.

Went to a new shop. Goodyear - Thompsons Tire and Service. Guys at the shop think it’s a drivetrain issue. Not struts. And the loosening of axle nuts with an impact gun wouldn’t damage the hubs. They said the tech didn’t really notice anything to speak of.

It’s hard for me to trust shops though. They did a good job with the alignment I guess, but the car was filthy after, covered in dust. And sure enough there’s a big dusty gravel lot to the side and behind the building. Just a strange coincidence. But it was so obvious because the tires were dirty and grey. Aaannd it was driven like 10+ miles while I was at work 8-5, the car was being “diagnosed”. The floor mats had dusty boot imprints. Hand prints on the hood and door. Wtf. Not going back there again. Better off doing it myself I guess. Ugh
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
What do you think about a bad lower ball joint?

Also took off the wheel spacers, no change.
I wish I had more ideas for you. It is odd that you noticed it after the axel change but then coincidents do happen and it may not be at all related to your axels or your work.

Id just keep looking at all front end parts, as I already mentioned struts caps, strut links, control arms, joints, even tie rods.
It sounds like it has slightly changed now only noticeable at the speeds you mentioned.

Good luck and keep us posted, you may save one of us a lot of time finding a problem in the future
 

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Sorry to keep blowing up this thread....

Swapped out the (front) adjustable Megan Racing Street Series coilovers, for my older TruHart dampers + Megan lowering springs, and it seems to have reduced the vibration significantly.

Not sure if the softer spring rate is soaking up the vibrations more, but if it were 7/10 "bad" previously, it is now 4/10 maybe 3/10 "bad". I can still feel it at lower rpms when pushing into full throttle by 3k rpm, especially if sport mode is on.

TruHart + Lowering Springs:
Front: 3.57 kgf/mm
Rear: 5kgf/mm

Street Series Coilovers:
Front: 6kgf/mm
Rear: 5kgf/mm

I have new lower ball joints on order, but not sure if that will do anything. Going to bring the front coilovers to the one performance shop that I trust to have the new pillow ball mounts replaced.
 

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When I installed the new intermediate shaft last weekend, I made sure to put grease on the splines. But damn, it was hard getting that off again.... after like 15 smacks of the slide hammer ...
Did you actually install a new intermediate shaft with a new bearing and mount, or were you saying you just replacing the right-side short shaft?
 

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Maciver - I replaced the complete intermediate shaft assembly. It came as a complete set: shaft, bearing and mount. But that did not help the issue.

Commuting to work today I realize it’s not not fixed by swapping out the front suspension. Still vibrates.
 
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