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Yeah there was a lot of rust colored drip.

I sprayed a ton of PB Blaster in all four holes. Wait 15mins. Another round of blasting. Another 15mins. Then 5 whacks of the slide hammer and it was out.

I wish I read this earlier…. Would have saved me a smashed thumb and a big blister on my hand. lol
 

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You may have damaged the carrier bearing on the half shaft.
Try to check it for movement .

Or the axel was not balanced well.
Any chance you know what part number Item 5 is on the diagram you shared in the first post?

Edit: it is "Intermediate Shaft - 49560-C2350"
 

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Last post was March 28th.... intermediate shaft was on back order since then. Ha.

I hope that the shafts arent seized again.....

Lets see what tomorrow brings! Happy fathers day to ya'll with kids. The struggle is real.

Table Wood Bicycle part Audio equipment Automotive tire
 

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33k per year, that's crazy :) How is it that you do so much driving? Business or pleasure??

My drivers side boot went at ~64k... but it has been lowered a generous amount for three years now. After this whole ordeal, I kinda wish I had only replaced the drivers side... ha. But I wanted to do new on both sides "new". The whole process is down to like 45mins per side now!

I have to contact RockAuto to see if they would give me a refund. I mean, this was defective out of the box, but is it possible I did something wrong? Maybe. Smacking it in too hard, using the axle itself? I just think that if these are to handle 250ft-lbs of torque just from the engine (on the bearings) it should handle me putting them in. Anyway, tomorrow I will know if it was the driver, or passengers side that was defective. Only got to put on the "new" new drivers side tonight.

When I installed the new intermediate shaft last weekend, I made sure to put grease on the splines. But damn, it was hard getting that off again.... after like 15 smacks of the slide hammer my eyes rolled into the back of my head. You gotta be kidding me. But then maybe about 5 hits more, it was out. So, safe to say, if the drivers side is stock you'll need to drill into the seal washer and spray penetrant. Sheesh.

On the other note, I am a bit partial to the JB4 as I've used it on previous vehicles. Great product, much tuning potential. But I have the Lap3 UncleChip rather than JB4 because I got it on sale. Meh. But surprisingly it is better than stock... especially between 3k - 5k. After that it's pretty much stock (91 Octane setting). Considering how they're priced right now.... get the JB4.
 

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Thanks for those ideas. I am just flabbergasted and can’t think. But you’re right.

Could I have damaged the wheel hub using an impact gun to remove the old axle nut? (used a torque wrench to tighten the new nut)

I did not remove the struts… just pushed them aside. I have new pillow ball mounts for my coilovers but cannot remove the nut to take off the old ones… always something…

I was also thinking about motor mounts, but that would have to be a crazy coincidence.

Getting a balance, rotate and alignment tomorrow.
 

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Thanks xaran for the encouragement.

After a bit of driving to and from work a few times now, feeling it out, the vibrations are actually less, but still there. I can get up to like 10psi boost before feeling it now. It’s noticeable at higher rpm’s, and lower rpm’s. Between 2.5k to 4.5k it’s not bad.

After the alignment it was no different. I reseated the wheels and wheel spacers last night. No change. It’s worth noting that the wheel spacers have never vibrated.

Went to a new shop. Goodyear - Thompsons Tire and Service. Guys at the shop think it’s a drivetrain issue. Not struts. And the loosening of axle nuts with an impact gun wouldn’t damage the hubs. They said the tech didn’t really notice anything to speak of.

It’s hard for me to trust shops though. They did a good job with the alignment I guess, but the car was filthy after, covered in dust. And sure enough there’s a big dusty gravel lot to the side and behind the building. Just a strange coincidence. But it was so obvious because the tires were dirty and grey. Aaannd it was driven like 10+ miles while I was at work 8-5, the car was being “diagnosed”. The floor mats had dusty boot imprints. Hand prints on the hood and door. Wtf. Not going back there again. Better off doing it myself I guess. Ugh
 

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Sorry to keep blowing up this thread....

Swapped out the (front) adjustable Megan Racing Street Series coilovers, for my older TruHart dampers + Megan lowering springs, and it seems to have reduced the vibration significantly.

Not sure if the softer spring rate is soaking up the vibrations more, but if it were 7/10 "bad" previously, it is now 4/10 maybe 3/10 "bad". I can still feel it at lower rpms when pushing into full throttle by 3k rpm, especially if sport mode is on.

TruHart + Lowering Springs:
Front: 3.57 kgf/mm
Rear: 5kgf/mm

Street Series Coilovers:
Front: 6kgf/mm
Rear: 5kgf/mm

I have new lower ball joints on order, but not sure if that will do anything. Going to bring the front coilovers to the one performance shop that I trust to have the new pillow ball mounts replaced.
 

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Maciver - I replaced the complete intermediate shaft assembly. It came as a complete set: shaft, bearing and mount. But that did not help the issue.

Commuting to work today I realize it’s not not fixed by swapping out the front suspension. Still vibrates.
 

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No fluid loss when replacing the outers.

It does not appear to happen at any one harmonic… seems to be related to load, at any rpm. By half-throttle you feel it, regardless of going 15mph in second gear, or 70mph in 5th. At 2k rpm’s or at 4k rpm’s
 

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Okay, I'll finally stop blowing up this thread.... problem fixed. No amazing ending to this story... new OEM Hyundai axles are smooth as butter.

Now let's see if I can get refunded for two sets of axles. Ha.
 
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