Hyundai Forums banner
1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
2017 Sonata Sport 2.0T
Joined
·
2,502 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I have a torn boot on the passenger CV Axel.
A while ago my drivers side (left) went and I found buying a pair of axels from Carid was a good deal. Replacing the drivers side was easy and the same as all other FWD cars Ive replaced the CV axel. Held into the transmission side y a small snap type ring at the end of the axel. A slide hammer or pry bar pops it out.

On my LF 2017 Sport 2.0T ( and I think it is the same for the Limited 2.0T) the passenger side the CV axel inner does not go into the transmission. Hyundai used a short "half shaft" out of the transmission to a support and bearing and then the CV connects to the "output half shaft. The CV Axel inner is a female the output shaft on the car is a male.

Does it just pop off the output half shaft? Use a puller or pry and it will pop out like the other side? Or does it connect at the outer bearing support for the output shaft?

Before I get it apart and find out I need a different tool Id like to confirm that I just give it a pop and it will come out. I want to do it after work this week and cant afford to not get the car back together same day. The drivers side was breeze did not even take off the calipers or strut. Just axel nut and lower spindle clamp and was able to pull it out of the way and reach in with a slide hammer and pop the axel out of the trans.

see diagram below #1 & 5

Thanks for any help.

Font Parallel Pattern Slope Musical instrument
 

·
Registered
2017 Sonata Sport 2.0T
Joined
·
2,502 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks Guys

It went home yesterday and tried to do it . 30 minutes to get to the point of pulling the axel and I spent 1.5+ hr trying to get it off with a 5lb slide puller and trying to get under and pry or get an angle on it to use a hammer.
No luck never moved. I was running out of time so put it back together and will try again.

At least I know it does just pop off with the clip.

Thank for the replies and picture.
 

·
Registered
2017 Sonata Sport 2.0T
Joined
·
2,502 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Got it done yesterday.
30 minutes or less to get to the point of pulling the axel - the easy part.

Spent over 2 hours under the car beating on the CV to get the axel out. It probably would have gone easier if I had the car on a lift so I could get a better swing with the hammer. But I ended up jacking it up as high as my jack stands would allow to give more room. The first hour I tried some heat and a small sledge (single jack is what we used to call them) and a 12" solid 1/2" round bar for my drift punch also tried my air hammer. It did not move.

There is a metal dust seal on the end of the axel shaft the I think is there to protect the carrier bearing on the output half shaft. With it there you cant see the connection point of the 2 shafts to be able to spray any penetrating oil . So I finally drilled 4 1/8" holes through the cover piece (looks like a washer on the end of splined end of the axel) and then shot JB Blaster into all 4 holes . Immediately I had a lot of rust drip out. I continued to spray it a couple more times and then went back at it with the hammer and punch from under the car through the opening you get when you remove the center panel to do oil and filter.

It started to move, I sprayed it 2 more times and waited 10-15 minutes and 2 more blows with the hammer (I always kept turning it between each hammer blow) it let loose and popped off. The splines and the clip had a lot of rust on them.

Cleaned it up, spun and checked the output shaft and carrier bearing and it seemed fine. I used a lot of Peratex Anti Seize on the splines and put it together.

If I had not been sure that it was not a press fit thanks to your replies above I would have taken it into a shop and paid them.

If I ever have to do it again, If it doesnt move with a couple blows with the hammer or slide hammer, Id drill it and spray every day for a few days and then go at it.

What should have been a 1 hour job took 2 days and about 4 hr of just trying to get the axel off the splined shaft.

Thanks guys for your responses above.

Taking it into the dealer today to have the trunk latch recall done. My trunk latch stopped working about a month ago, this was the first appointment I could get at dealer.
 

·
Registered
2017 Sonata Sport 2.0T
Joined
·
2,502 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
the pictures don't help, but I am not doing it.
I have to ask though, when you had the other axle out, could you have punched it out from the other side?
I remember doing that once on a sentra. got a long bar that fit all the way through and hammered that till it pushed the other side out of the trans.
No that wont work because there is a "half shaft and carrier bearing" that goes into the transmission (see post #1 & 2 above). Then the CV axel slides over the "half shaft" this is why it gets stuck it is not inside the transmission so there is no lubrication.
 

·
Registered
2017 Sonata Sport 2.0T
Joined
·
2,502 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
If you want to take out the CV axel and the half shaft. You have to unbolt the bracket that holds the half shaft and carrier bearing to the engine and then you could pull bot pieces of the axel out (post picture #1) . The half shaft should easily pop out just like the drivers side does since it is in the trans and is lubricated.

Then separate them on the bench. But getting the carrier bracket off looks like a couple of the bolts are difficult to get to doing it on jack stands.

I found and it sounds like TwoPointShow found that if you can get a little penetrating oil on the splines it lets loose and isnt hard to get off.
 

·
Registered
2017 Sonata Sport 2.0T
Joined
·
2,502 Posts
Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Yeah…. That didn’t fix it #facepalm
Still have the vibration?
Could be the CV axel you got is out of balance. Only way to see is order another from same shop and install. if it takes care of the problem you should be able to return it
 

·
Registered
2017 Sonata Sport 2.0T
Joined
·
2,502 Posts
Discussion Starter · #26 ·
What were the symptoms of your torn boot, and is full replacement of the axle the only remedy? Long time no see though Xaran, glad you're still active here.
Same here SJ408, I enjoyed following your build / s. Still in the SD area?

With my CV, all it was on both were torn outside boots. I noticed them during routine oil changes and inspections. The drivers side went a few months before the passenger side. I caught them early and they were just starting to throw some grease out into the wheel well and underside.

Complete axle replacement is not the only choice but IMO easier and makes sense and for the time and $ involved I felt better to replace the whole thing.

In the old days (1970-1980) we always replaced the boot and repacked the CV. But after looking around for boot replacement kits for the Sonata there are not many choices and run $40 +. Hyundai OEM from online dealers like hyundaioemparts.com (Del Rey Hyundai in Florida) the boot alone was $71 (Genuine Outer Boot for 2015-2017 Hyundai Sonata | Part# 49581-C1300 | Hyundai OEM Parts Direct). and with the time to dissemble and pack it plus the CV had over 150,000 miles on them. It only made sense to replace the hole axle CV and boots with a new aftermarket. I got mine from CarID but Rock Auto , Amazon and there are a few on EBay OEM Hyundai all in the $100-150 range.

There are a couple sellers on EBay that sell both right and left axle for $278 or just 1 for the $ 150 range.

The drivers side is a breeze to change the passenger side was a bear. Read my thread, if you can get in there and soak with penetrating oil (I used PB Blaster) a couple days before and I also drilled some little holes into the carrier bearing metal dust cover. The problem is on the passenger side with the 2.0T they use a half shaft to minimize torque steer , keeping axle lengths the same and the outer slide area with splines is not lubricated.
 

·
Registered
2017 Sonata Sport 2.0T
Joined
·
2,502 Posts
Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Yeah still in SD, but moving up to the Bay Area in a few months. Just getting back into throwing stuff at my car now so i might be updating my thread. Adding an AEM strut bar and most likely gonna order a Progress 22mm rear sway bar.

What mileage is your car at now? And did you ever end up getting a tune for your Sonata? Been thinking about it too, but still weary on the off chance that a dealer may be able to figure out or trace a tune being installed, whether a piggy back JB4 or Lap3 Pro, or the full Lap3 spare ECU tune.

I guess I should take a peek at my CV boot to see how they're doing, although I'm only at ~40,000 miles. At what point do they usually "wear" out?
SJ408
Im at just over 166,000 miles now since May 2017 (about 5 yr = 33,000 a year).
I have a friend / neighbor that owns the local Indy tire Shop and has an 2018 Optima with the JB 4 on it and it is noticeable improvement in overall power. I was on the fence for quite a while with getting one. But with all of the Theta II seizing I decided that it wasn't worth taking the chance that it would /could add to mine seizing and needing a new engine. I really dont think the dealer can spot it since it is a piggy back unit. Burger says it cant show up on a diagnostic as long as you physically remove it before taking to the dealer.
Overall for a $21,000 sedan compared to all the $ 45-60,000 cars I drove before this (Infiniti G37s, M45s, MBZ C, Lincoln LS,Ford SHO) Im still happy with how mine runs when I get on it and use the paddles (which is most of the time). So i never did get a J , but that is he unit I would buy. I did have a spark plug break the tip and porcelain at150, 000 and it damaged the exhaust valve so I had to pull the head and do a valve job. But overall the car still runs great , no oil use, good compression, is driven hard daily. The truharts and springs now have over 100,000 miles on them and are good. I swapped out rotors for R1 Drilled and ceramic pads. I still have the maintaince thread going Mileage on your LF Sonata last update was #454.

My CV boots went at about 125,000 drivers side and 150,000 passenger.

Nice to have you back on the forum, did you finish school (if I remember you were in school).
Let us know about the rear sway bar. That is something Iven wanted to do since new to help the understeer.
 

·
Registered
2017 Sonata Sport 2.0T
Joined
·
2,502 Posts
Discussion Starter · #30 ·
33k per year, that's crazy :) How is it that you do so much driving? Business or pleasure??

My drivers side boot went at ~64k... but it has been lowered a generous amount for three years now. After this whole ordeal, I kinda wish I had only replaced the drivers side... ha. But I wanted to do new on both sides "new". The whole process is down to like 45mins per side now!

I have to contact RockAuto to see if they would give me a refund. I mean, this was defective out of the box, but is it possible I did something wrong? Maybe. Smacking it in too hard, using the axle itself? I just think that if these are to handle 250ft-lbs of torque just from the engine (on the bearings) it should handle me putting them in. Anyway, tomorrow I will know if it was the driver, or passengers side that was defective. Only got to put on the "new" new drivers side tonight.

When I installed the new intermediate shaft last weekend, I made sure to put grease on the splines. But damn, it was hard getting that off again.... after like 15 smacks of the slide hammer my eyes rolled into the back of my head. You gotta be kidding me. But then maybe about 5 hits more, it was out. So, safe to say, if the drivers side is stock you'll need to drill into the seal washer and spray penetrant. Sheesh.

On the other note, I am a bit partial to the JB4 as I've used it on previous vehicles. Great product, much tuning potential. But I have the Lap3 UncleChip rather than JB4 because I got it on sale. Meh. But surprisingly it is better than stock... especially between 3k - 5k. After that it's pretty much stock (91 Octane setting). Considering how they're priced right now.... get the JB4.
135 miles a day work commute at least 5 days a week and sometimes on call on nights or weekends.

So you went and ordered 2 new axels and are going to exchange them to see if one of the other replacements was bad? let us know how it works out and if Rock Auto will refund.

On the passenger side I used antisieze instead of just grease, Im hoping that if I ever need to pull it again it will help it come out easier. but Ill bet it is still stuck. The way that it is designed sets it up for seizure, they should have put a zerk fitting on the splined shaft so it could be lubed.
 

·
Registered
2017 Sonata Sport 2.0T
Joined
·
2,502 Posts
Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Well… no good. New intermediate shaft and cv axles did not fix the wobble under hard acceleration.

Your guess is as good as mine….
It all started when you replaced the axel ? No signs before?

Seems like it would have to be something touched when replacing the axel, but sometimes just a coincidence?

I guess Id start with the easy stuff, wheels balanced and hubs and hub bearings, rotors and did you pull the strut or just disconnect from lower control arm and then pull strut out of the way? If you did (which is how I do it) you may have stressed the "strut top mount or cap" and that could allow some movement under hard acceleration or even braking.

Are motor and trans mounts good?

After that Id think transmission?
 

·
Registered
2017 Sonata Sport 2.0T
Joined
·
2,502 Posts
Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Thanks for those ideas. I am just flabbergasted and can’t think. But you’re right.

Could I have damaged the wheel hub using an impact gun to remove the old axle nut? (used a torque wrench to tighten the new nut)

I did not remove the struts… just pushed them aside. I have new pillow ball mounts for my coilovers but cannot remove the nut to take off the old ones… always something…

I was also thinking about motor mounts, but that would have to be a crazy coincidence.

Getting a balance, rotate and alignment tomorrow.
Keep us up to date on the progress. These are the kind of problems that once repaired the info can really help other members
 

·
Registered
2017 Sonata Sport 2.0T
Joined
·
2,502 Posts
Discussion Starter · #37 ·
What do you think about a bad lower ball joint?

Also took off the wheel spacers, no change.
I wish I had more ideas for you. It is odd that you noticed it after the axel change but then coincidents do happen and it may not be at all related to your axels or your work.

Id just keep looking at all front end parts, as I already mentioned struts caps, strut links, control arms, joints, even tie rods.
It sounds like it has slightly changed now only noticeable at the speeds you mentioned.

Good luck and keep us posted, you may save one of us a lot of time finding a problem in the future
 

·
Registered
2017 Sonata Sport 2.0T
Joined
·
2,502 Posts
Discussion Starter · #45 ·
Okay, I'll finally stop blowing up this thread.... problem fixed. No amazing ending to this story... new OEM Hyundai axles are smooth as butter.

Now let's see if I can get refunded for two sets of axles. Ha.
WOW, Im glad you worked it out.

I know the Hyundai axels have the big I think balancer on them vs the aftermarket that dont. Mine are fine but its good info for the future if i have to replace again.

There are vendors on EBay and Amazon that sell OEM Hyundai axels for about the same $ as aftermarket.

Again glad you worked t out, you must have the R&R of axels down to a 30 minute job....
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top