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The only additive I used was Techron fuel cleaner, because I didn't have Top Tier gas in my area, but now I do.
I commute 110 miles/day so mostly highway travel.
I thought your engine was replaced at some point due to water damage? Maybe I'm getting you confused with someone else.
 

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I thought your engine was replaced at some point due to water damage? Maybe I'm getting you confused with someone else.
Nope, that's me. It was replaced with a used engine, 21K less miles. So that car has 150K, 129K on the engine. I get confused myself, lol.
 

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118k miles here:

Front pads changed 2x, rotors 1x
Rear pads and rotors 1x
Brakes bled 1x
ATF drain and fill 2x
Coolant flush 1x
Tires replaced 2x
Battery 2x
Spark plugs at 95k.
Oil has been changed every 4-6k using just about every brand on the market(5w20,5w-30,10w-30 dino and syn)
Steering couple at 86k. Needs replaced again.
Oil pan resealed 2x(pan actually replaced second time)
AC condenser replaced at 40kish
Brake light switch 3x
Starter lever at 75k
Transmission inhibitor switch 1x
Numerous recalls and TSBs performed, just too many to list.
A/C compressor moans like a deprived wh0re, but still blows cold.
Currently the cruise control will not engage and for the past year I've had a noticeable rattle during under 2000RPM(fuel line clip was replaced a couple years ago)

Overall, the car has been very good, but not excellent.
-The engine is still very strong and runs well. She pulls like a freight train when I get on it.
-Transmission shifts great.
-Still get advertised MPG.
-Never thrown a CEL.
-Car is paid off!
 

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118k miles here:

Front pads changed 2x, rotors 1x
Rear pads and rotors 1x
Brakes bled 1x
ATF drain and fill 2x
Coolant flush 1x
Tires replaced 2x
Battery 2x
Spark plugs at 95k.
Oil has been changed every 4-6k using just about every brand on the market(5w20,5w-30,10w-30 dino and syn)
Steering couple at 86k. Needs replaced again.
Oil pan resealed 2x(pan actually replaced second time)
AC condenser replaced at 40kish
Brake light switch 3x
Starter lever at 75k
Transmission inhibitor switch 1x
Numerous recalls and TSBs performed, just too many to list.
A/C compressor moans like a deprived wh0re, but still blows cold.
Currently the cruise control will not engage and for the past year I've had a noticeable rattle during under 2000RPM(fuel line clip was replaced a couple years ago)

Overall, the car has been very good, but not excellent.
-The engine is still very strong and runs well. She pulls like a freight train when I get on it.
-Transmission shifts great.
-Still get advertised MPG.
-Never thrown a CEL.
-Car is paid off!
It's kinda funny, when I bought my car my biggest concern was the transmission, since they were pretty well known to be unreliable in past Hyundai vehicles. Its looking now like its the most reliable part of the car!
 

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I have 14' 2.0T SE

Reached 93K today.

Driving: 80% freeway / 20% local.

Maintenance:
- oil change every 5K.
- on my 2nd tire set.
- Drain and fill ATF at 57K.
- Replaced spark plugs at 49K.
- Flushed coolant at 65K.
- Replaced front brake pads and rotors at 80K.
- techron fuel injector cleaner every 20K (not sure if it made a difference :p).

Repair/Recall:
- Fuel door hinge randomly broke around 70K, paid 130 dollars to local mechanic I trust, instead of paying 300 dollars to dealer.
- Underbody coat recall last summer.

Summary:
- Overall, I have been a happy camper. No problems so far. I intended to keep few more years before I trade in for new car!
 

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Just got 127k miles on my 2011 GLS.
Bought it 9 months ago and ran 12k miles. Changed oil 3 times using dealer bulk 5w-20 blend (Mopar) and oem filter.

MPG: 20.5 city

Issues:
- steering knocking (rubber coupler)
- oil consumption, burns a quart of 5w20 blend every 2k miles, hopefully it'll be more or less solved with a thicker oil (anyone uses 5w40?)
- brake pedal recall with switch replacement
(at first dealer wanted to replace switch at my expense (130$ diagnostics + 50 part), then after my complain they agreed that cruise stooped working after the recall and replaced the switch free)
- possible transmission issue (torque converter), can't post links yet, started new thread

Otherwise the car is pretty solid.
 

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Have 103k miles on my 2011 GLS, bought it when it had 27k 4 years ago.

-Had Transmission fluid drained and refilled 2x
-Front Brake Pads replaced
-Brake Fluid Flushed
-Spark Plugs replaced
-Serpentine Belt replaced
-Change oil every 5k with full synthetic Mobil 1 5w20
-changes tires once
-Rotate tires every 5k

Car is solid, the only complaints at the moment is the rubber steering coupler noise, some suspension clunking when i drive over dip, and A/C sometimes won't blow cold during the summer when at a stop.

does anyone else here have suspension noises?
 

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Have 103k miles on my 2011 GLS, bought it when it had 27k 4 years ago.

-Had Transmission fluid drained and refilled 2x
-Front Brake Pads replaced
-Brake Fluid Flushed
-Spark Plugs replaced
-Serpentine Belt replaced
-Change oil every 5k with full synthetic Mobil 1 5w20
-changes tires once
-Rotate tires every 5k

Car is solid, the only complaints at the moment is the rubber steering coupler noise, some suspension clunking when i drive over dip, and A/C sometimes won't blow cold during the summer when at a stop.

does anyone else here have suspension noises?
Battery never changed?

Rear brakes Rotor and Pads never changed?

Reason I am asking, I bought previous rental 2 years and 2 months ago with roughly 42000 miles,they had battery and tires changed aLready before it was sold to me.

I am @ 85,400 kilometers now or about 51,000 miles,I had to change both front and rear brakes rotors and pads.

Except for spark plugs, I have done everything on your list,just to make sure.
 

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Nothing really. It's garaged at night, maybe that helps some over the winter. I was actually thinking I should replace it before this winter hit, but I tested it in he fall while cranking, and it is still strong.
 

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Battery never changed?

Rear brakes Rotor and Pads never changed?

Reason I am asking, I bought previous rental 2 years and 2 months ago with roughly 42000 miles,they had battery and tires changed aLready before it was sold to me.

I am @ 85,400 kilometers now or about 51,000 miles,I had to change both front and rear brakes rotors and pads.

Except for spark plugs, I have done everything on your list,just to make sure.
Oops. Battery was replaced 2x. The first time i drained it because i had the key in the ignition turned. Second time it was the battery itself.

Rear rotors and pads I have not replaced.

whats the recommended interval to replace those? Infact I have not replaced the front rotors either.
 

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Oops. Battery was replaced 2x. The first time i drained it because i had the key in the ignition turned. Second time it was the battery itself.

Rear rotors and pads I have not replaced.

whats the recommended interval to replace those? Infact I have not replaced the front rotors either.
My front brake rotors needed replacement as it was scored.

Rear brakes were seized,so changed both rotors and pads.

Rotors gets rusty.

Sonata brakes needs service every six months in Canadian environment.

I needed front and rear rotors and pads changed around 50000 miles.
 

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I purchased my 2012 Sonata GLS with 6-speed manual transmission new. It currently has 114,000 miles

Use NapaGold 1334 oil filters exclusively and Castrol 5W20 synthetic oil

Maintenance:
Oil/filter changes and tire rotations every 5000 miles (or so)
Replace engine air filter 3x
Replace cabin air filter 3x
4-wheel alignment at 86,000 miles
Replace all four brake rotors/pads, spark plugs, radiator hoses, coolant, transmission oil and serpentine belt at 103,000 miles

Repair:
Driver's rear wheel studs (2) stripped out where they pressed into the hub. I repaired this twice, then just replaced the hub with a Moog part. So far, no more problems. Same thing happened once on the passenger side rear wheel stud. Just installed a new stud. It is very odd. Use a torque wrench when I install the lug nuts. Puzzling.

Outside of the odd problem with the rear wheel studs, this car has been bulletproof. It does not burn or leak any fluids and still returns over 32 miles per gallon with mostly highway driving. I do all my own maintenance, outside of installing tires and doing the alignment. Easy to work on for maintenance. The rear hub wheel stud issue is not hard to fix once you've done it a couple times! There is no rust to speak of on the car so far.

I'm pleased with the service of what is my fourth new Hyundai. They just keep getting better (and more expensive)!
 

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7500 should be OK as long as he checks the oil level periodically.


Many owners of Hondas and GM vehicles report getting. 8000-9000 miles out of regular oil when using the oil life monitor system.(OLM).


A few UOAs wouldnt be a bad idea.
I got my 2011 sonata 6 month ago and my engine died completely thank god there was a recall on the engine and git a brand new one installed know is loke a new car again.
 

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Mine just turned over 144k miles. So that means I have put 100k on it. The only paid repairs I have done were the HPFP at 70k and a coolant hose that burst at 103k.

Fantastic engines regardless of the recall. I also take reasonable care of mine too.
 

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I have a 2011 GLS that has received a new engine after 142K miles. Up to that time it was normal maintenance with some 'glitches' here and there (interior dome light failure caused battery to completely drain, 1 fouled fuel-injector caused car to hiccup when driving, MDPS coupler, etc.). The new engine runs great (just checked between 1st and 2nd oil changes and the dipstick still showing 'F'...quite a change from my 2qts/1000 miles prior!!!) and the rest of the car is in pretty good shape. A few groans from the suspension that are probably easily fixed, and maybe a need to do some rear brake work, but other than that I have no complaints. I've had my car since March 2010 and, with the new engine, I'm hoping to keep it for another 5-7 years or so.

This car, for me, has been as reliable as the Camry I had before it. Camry was probably a smoother driver but I figure at 146K I may look into changing out the struts and shocks to see if I can get a smoother ride at some point in time.
 

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I have a 2011 GLS that has received a new engine after 142K miles. Up to that time it was normal maintenance with some 'glitches' here and there (interior dome light failure caused battery to completely drain, 1 fouled fuel-injector caused car to hiccup when driving, MDPS coupler, etc.). The new engine runs great (just checked between 1st and 2nd oil changes and the dipstick still showing 'F'...quite a change from my 2qts/1000 miles prior!!!) and the rest of the car is in pretty good shape. A few groans from the suspension that are probably easily fixed, and maybe a need to do some rear brake work, but other than that I have no complaints. I've had my car since March 2010 and, with the new engine, I'm hoping to keep it for another 5-7 years or so.

This car, for me, has been as reliable as the Camry I had before it. Camry was probably a smoother driver but I figure at 146K I may look into changing out the struts and shocks to see if I can get a smoother ride at some point in time.


Your car received a new engine at 142K- was this paid for by Hyundai with the engine recall? What was the incident that triggered the engine replacement other than that it was burning more oil? Interested as I have a 2012 Sonata currently at the shop awaiting formal diagnosis. So far I have been notified by an outside shop that the PSI is low in one of the cylinders. Hoping if it is related to warranty engine recall & Hyundai will cover cost even tho I am over milage at ~130K.
 

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Around 180K on our 2012, running like a champ. We hope to keep it another 2 yrs / 20K miles. It's the most trouble-free car I've ever owned. I had to replace both rear brake calipers this year (bugger of a job) because they were about frozen in place. But that's more because of the Pennsylvania salt than anything I can blame Hyundai for. I had similar issues with previous cars.
 
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