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Since the 2018 Hyundai Tucson doesn't have a radiator cap, is there any way to get rid of any air that's trapped inside the cooling system? My wife's 2018 Tucson with the 2.0L, has terrible heat in the winter, as many of you probably already know. We live in Upstate, NY and the winters can get brutally cold. We had the dealer replace the thermostat already, but there was no change in the heat output. In the past, I've "burped" (bleed) the coolant system on a few cars, which released a lot of trapped air bubbles, which improved the heat output. Could trapped air be causing the poor heat output coming from these engines during the winter? Does anyone know how the dealer bleeds the coolant system on our vehicles?
 

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If you have a large amount of air in the system it'll over heat.
The way we remove air on tough to do cooling systems if to use the lift to put the front end a few feet into the air.
We used vacula to do them also.
 

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Since the 2018 Hyundai Tucson doesn't have a radiator cap, is there any way to get rid of any air that's trapped inside the cooling system? My wife's 2018 Tucson with the 2.0L, has terrible heat in the winter, as many of you probably already know. We live in Upstate, NY and the winters can get brutally cold. We had the dealer replace the thermostat already, but there was no change in the heat output. In the past, I've "burped" (bleed) the coolant system on a few cars, which released a lot of trapped air bubbles, which improved the heat output. Could trapped air be causing the poor heat output coming from these engines during the winter? Does anyone know how the dealer bleeds the coolant system on our vehicles?
Well if the stat was changed and it made no difference I doubt that trapped air is the issue. Does the car eventually produce decent heat - my daughter has a 2017 2.0 and once warmed up ( it does take a while), the heat is sufficient. Bought her a remote start for xmas and she is very happy. For a small displacement engine the fuel economy is poor.
What is Hyundai or the dealer's position on going to a 186 degree or 190 degree stat - Hyundai uses 180 on a number of their engines. I grew up WNY and recall some people using a summer stat then switching to a winter one.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
If you have a large amount of air in the system it'll over heat.
The way we remove air on tough to do cooling systems if to use the lift to put the front end a few feet into the air.
We used vacula to do them also.
If you have a large amount of air in the system it'll over heat.
The way we remove air on tough to do cooling systems if to use the lift to put the front end a few feet into the air.
We used vacula to do them also.
Thanks for your comment.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well if the stat was changed and it made no difference I doubt that trapped air is the issue. Does the car eventually produce decent heat - my daughter has a 2017 2.0 and once warmed up ( it does take a while), the heat is sufficient. Bought her a remote start for xmas and she is very happy. For a small displacement engine the fuel economy is poor.
What is Hyundai or the dealer's position on going to a 186 degree or 190 degree stat - Hyundai uses 180 on a number of their engines. I grew up WNY and recall some people using a summer stat then switching to a winter one.
We had a remote start installed too. My wife warms the Tucson up for about 10 minutes, while putting on her boots and brushing off the snow. If the temperature is below freezing, there's hardly any heat coming out of the vents. The heat finally kicks in when she's pulling into her parking spot at work, which is a 12 minute drive from the house. She has been getting a little over 23 mpg in city driving during the winter. My daughter and son both owned 4 cylinder Sonatas and both had great heaters. We should've bought a Toyota RAV4 instead. My wife isn't a happy camper during the winter with the Tucson. Thanks for your comment.
 

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Since the 2018 Hyundai Tucson doesn't have a radiator cap
Its not what you would now call a radiator cap but a cooling system pressure cap located on the header tank. The system should be self bleeding. just let it get hot then cool down and top up.
 

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My Accent was terrible in the cold down below 0F or so. I finally found a 192F t-stat and cut the jiggle valve off sealing the hole with ha threaded machine screw. This cut the warm up time in half as fara s t-stat opening temp.Used a drop of loctite on it. The car has fantastic heat now.

I also have cardboard across the entire front but it's away from the condenser a bit.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
My Accent was terrible in the cold down below 0F or so. I finally found a 192F t-stat and cut the jiggle valve off sealing the hole with ha threaded machine screw. This cut the warm up time in half as fara s t-stat opening temp.Used a drop of loctite on it. The car has fantastic heat now.

I also have cardboard across the entire front but it's away from the condenser a bit.
Thanks for your suggestion.
 

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My Accent was terrible in the cold down below 0F or so. I finally found a 192F t-stat and cut the jiggle valve off sealing the hole with ha threaded machine screw. This cut the warm up time in half as fara s t-stat opening temp.Used a drop of loctite on it. The car has fantastic heat now.

I also have cardboard across the entire front but it's away from the condenser a bit.
Good solution except unless Hyundai blesses use of a higher temp stat - it would likely void the warranty Assume the Accent is mpi and not gdi which places different thermal stress on the head. My Saab runs a 195 stat that produces copious amounts of heat for the winter but in summer underhood temps are way up there.
 

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I used a t-stat originally designed for the 1.5L Accent motor. I don't know why it would void the warranty seeing as it still runs within design parameters and has the same physical dimensions and design. The low speed cooling fan will not come on before 203F and the full open temp rating of the high temp t-stat is 192F vs OE of 203F.

The big advantage though is in the opening temp. OE is 180F and the hi temp is 188F. This gives quite a bit of headroom so the engine once it has reached opening temp and when it's very cold out, does not lose temp coasting down or using a higher interior fan speed.

It's the best mod I ever did for my Accent.

The jiggle vale elimination really helps with quicker warm up. Probably help if you are the type who starts the engine and let it idle for warm up.
 

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Keith1961 it could even be a blend door found in the dash not opening & directing the air through the vents.? if you put your hand very close to the dash vents can You feel the force of the air coming out on all vents.? you also mentioned dealer replaced thermostat if there were any large amounts of air your engine's temp would rise as mentioned by grcauto what i would do

is when engine is cold just unscrew the resevoir cap leave the cap off start the engine and run it for a few minutes with cap off then reach down to the lower rad hose if You can not sure how much room you got on a tucson to do this? but if you can reach down to the lower rad hose and give it a few hard squeezes that should help push air out as well.
 

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I used a t-stat originally designed for the 1.5L Accent motor. I don't know why it would void the warranty seeing as it still runs within design parameters and has the same physical dimensions and design. The low speed cooling fan will not come on before 203F and the full open temp rating of the high temp t-stat is 192F vs OE of 203F.

The big advantage though is in the opening temp. OE is 180F and the hi temp is 188F. This gives quite a bit of headroom so the engine once it has reached opening temp and when it's very cold out, does not lose temp coasting down or using a higher interior fan speed.

It's the best mod I ever did for my Accent.

The giggle vale elimination really helps with quicker warm up. Probably help if you are the type who starts the engine and let it idle for warm up.
if it's 192 F for that engine that should produce sufficient heat once the engine has reached operating temp. . I believe my Theta 2.0T runs a 180 degree stat. I know from driving my daughter's Tucson it takes a while to fully warm up but produces pretty good heat once fully warmed. Some housings have a nub to correctly position the jiggle hole, as some believe it does impact thermostat operation, but your suggestion seems good if someone wants to go through the bother of removing the Tsat - sometimes those things are painful to get to and if the poster relies on the dealer then so much for getting that done.
 

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Assuming there are no leaks anywhere in the cooling system it will self purge the air out. Rather quickly with the cap on the expansion tank set up.

The high temp T-stat had a nub for it to locate it properly. But I plugged the jiggle value. Makes a big difference.

Here's the one I used. You can look it up to see if the diminutions are the same as your OE. It's usually correct diameter for the hole but the bottom setup varies.

My saga from three years ago.

 

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like the stant - I've used the super stant for decades now and never had one fail.
 

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I think the problem is engine design where the amount of heat transferred to the cooling system at low ambient temperatures is low and I can't see an answer to it. The cooling system design won't start transferring heat till the thermostat starts opening which should be sufficient no matter how low the ambient is so a 10 degree difference won't make a difference.
 

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The Accent engine is just too efficient and does not make enough heat unless under load. The OE 180F one works great but with the 192F one you have a lot more headroom. It's really noticeable if you coast in gear to a stop. I would loose 10F down to 172F or so when I did that and it was around 0F outside. Now I may get down to 183F or so.

Youc an get lazy t-stats too that may run at the OE rating (per obdII) but leak which makes them take longer to warm up. Much like the worthless jiggle valve.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I think the problem is engine design where the amount of heat transferred to the cooling system at low ambient temperatures is low and I can't see an answer to it. The cooling system design won't start transferring heat till the thermostat starts opening which should be sufficient no matter how low the ambient is so a 10 degree difference won't make a difference.
I agree. From what I read concerning this issue, this seems to be a design error. It's not acceptable for owners of this vehicle to have to switch thermostats, or place cardboard in front of their vehicles during winter. Hyundai is not owning up to this known problem which ticks me off.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Keith1961 it could even be a blend door found in the dash not opening & directing the air through the vents.? if you put your hand very close to the dash vents can You feel the force of the air coming out on all vents.? you also mentioned dealer replaced thermostat if there were any large amounts of air your engine's temp would rise as mentioned by grcauto what i would do

is when engine is cold just unscrew the resevoir cap leave the cap off start the engine and run it for a few minutes with cap off then reach down to the lower rad hose if You can not sure how much room you got on a tucson to do this? but if you can reach down to the lower rad hose and give it a few hard squeezes that should help push air out as well.
Thanks for your response. The blend door is working as it should. After reading more on this subject online and reading the responses on this forum, I doubt trap air is the culprit for the poor heat output. Never had this issue on other 4 cyl vehicles I've owned, nor on my kid's 4 cyl Sonatas. IMO, this is an engineering error that Hyundai is ignoring.
 

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God luck getting a fix from Hyundai. Most engine I've had in the past run at near 200F. Hyundai is probalby afraid of head gasket issues.
 
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