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Discussion Starter #1
Wonder if anyone has had this issue with their cars. Our car is a 2013 Elantra GT SE, auto, with 174,000 km. Recently had short block replaced due to ticking issue everyone has been writing about. My wife was driving the car and the following is what she was able to tell me about what happened.

Was on highway, at speed, when I noticed the antiskid/esc light come on followed by a jolt/jerk in the car like the brakes had been applied sharply. The car slowed and would not accelerate. Car behind me had to pass as the car slowed significantly. Took next off-ramp. At stop, all cluster lights came on and the car stalled. Able to restart but the antiskid/esc light stayed on and the car would not accelerate, was very sluggish. Able to make it to work and parked the car for the day.

Going home, the car started fine and the antiskid/esc light was off and the car seemed to be reacting normally until I got close to home when the antiskid/esc light came back on, the car jolted/jerked and acceleration was not very responsive. However, this time, the car did not stall at the first stop. I had to stop off at the store. When I came out the car started, the antiskid/esc light was off and I went home.

The next morning the car was taken to the dealership for service. It started without issue and no warning lights came on. Service department reported they were unable to duplicate the issue. They did not share any codes that came up except for a historical code that they said was a "communication error" and that may have led to the car initiating a "fuel cut function". They also said that it may, or may not be a crankshaft position sensor issue but without knowing for certain, they didn't want to just replace it due to the cost involved and no guarantee that the problem would be corrected. We were told to monitor the car and see what happens.

Would appreciate if you could share similar experiences and any solutions that you have come across. Thanks
 

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This sounds very similar to the issue that I am having. I am wondering if you got this fixed and what was the solution?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
This sounds very similar to the issue that I am having. I am wondering if you got this fixed and what was the solution?
Not fixed yet. Had car in service yesterday and they couldn't replicate the issue so no solution offered. Wife told me car was fine today with no repeat of symptoms, so far, so I guess we're somewhere in between point A, the car reset and fixed itself and point B, the car will explode in a fiery ball (yeah, I'm a little pissed at Hyundai for letting cars that have this condition be on the road).

I like circuitsmith's suggestion to get a battery/charging system check done. I've seen that suggestion more than once. However, we had a Service 3 done as well and I saw listed that they "Check battery condition and terminals". I don't know what that entails (does tech just look at it and say it's okay, or do they do something?). I'm going to check with service department and go from there on battery check. I think we have a long journey ahead of us sirclintus!

Have you tried anything?
 

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Not fixed yet. Had car in service yesterday and they couldn't replicate the issue so no solution offered. Wife told me car was fine today with no repeat of symptoms, so far, so I guess we're somewhere in between point A, the car reset and fixed itself and point B, the car will explode in a fiery ball (yeah, I'm a little pissed at Hyundai for letting cars that have this condition be on the road).

I like circuitsmith's suggestion to get a battery/charging system check done. I've seen that suggestion more than once. However, we had a Service 3 done as well and I saw listed that they "Check battery condition and terminals". I don't know what that entails (does tech just look at it and say it's okay, or do they do something?). I'm going to check with service department and go from there on battery check. I think we have a long journey ahead of us sirclintus!

Have you tried anything?
Interesting night! Had to meet wife near her work and she told me her car was repeating the issue. We switched cars and I noticed antiskid light on and, new to me, no response from the tach whatsoever, just stayed at zero rpm. Started to drive home and noticed applying accelerator had little affect on speed. Long story short, car stalled around 5 times over the 20 km trip home whenever the car stopped moving. Also noticed after the first stall that the check engine light came on as well. I was able to make it to the dealer/service and they told me ahead of time to keep it running so they could get a code. I left it outside the service entrance and when the advisor went out to check it the car had stalled. He restarted and got a code something like 00335 or 000335 or similar. That code said the crankshaft position sensor needed replacement. We set it up for that to be changed and we'll see if that fixes the issue. Stay tuned!
 

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Interesting night! Had to meet wife near her work and she told me her car was repeating the issue. We switched cars and I noticed antiskid light on and, new to me, no response from the tach whatsoever, just stayed at zero rpm. Started to drive home and noticed applying accelerator had little affect on speed. Long story short, car stalled around 5 times over the 20 km trip home whenever the car stopped moving. Also noticed after the first stall that the check engine light came on as well. Both lights stayed on after restarts. I was able to make it to the dealer/service and they told me ahead of time to keep it running so they could get a code. I left it outside the service entrance and when the advisor went out to check it the car had stalled. He restarted and got a code something like 00335 or 000335 or similar. That code (don't quote me on exact number) references the crankshaft position sensor having a problem. We set it up for that to be replaced and we'll see if that fixes the issue. Stay tuned!
 

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Not fixed yet. Had car in service yesterday and they couldn't replicate the issue so no solution offered. Wife told me car was fine today with no repeat of symptoms, so far, so I guess we're somewhere in between point A, the car reset and fixed itself and point B, the car will explode in a fiery ball (yeah, I'm a little pissed at Hyundai for letting cars that have this condition be on the road).

I like circuitsmith's suggestion to get a battery/charging system check done. I've seen that suggestion more than once. However, we had a Service 3 done as well and I saw listed that they "Check battery condition and terminals". I don't know what that entails (does tech just look at it and say it's okay, or do they do something?). I'm going to check with service department and go from there on battery check. I think we have a long journey ahead of us sirclintus!

Have you tried anything?
So I took it to Oriley’s today to see if any codes at all were stored, specifically the ABS module since that was the light coming on. I got a C1613 code. Which is a CAN signal error which means it’s electrical and could be a few different sensors and worse case a ECM. But after looking around on the internet and talking to the Hyundai dealer about my symptoms....both pointed to replacing the crankshaft position sensor. So I ordered an OEM part online with good reviews for $25 and going to replace it myself. It’s a pretty easy task. If that doesn’t fix it, I’ll take it into the Hyundai place and have them do a $120 diagnostic on it to see if it’s another sensor or something more serious and go from there. Repair shop would probably do the same thing and start with the cheapest solution first unless they have a definitive answer on what it is.

I’ll keep you posted, part will arrive on Monday and probably install late next week.
 

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By the sound if it it is going into limp mode when it gets the CAN error. They can be hard to find with some manufacturers pointing to ECU earth points.
 

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You've have a network problem. Do you know how to isolate the offending circuit?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
You've have a network problem. Do you know how to isolate the offending circuit?
I do not. However, the shop replaced the crank position sensor as per P0335 code. They test drove for 25 kms and no further codes generated. Car runs like it did before issue. The tech did mention that the ESC light coming on could be related to the ABS module (as you have) and since the crank position sensor was replaced an inspection of the "engine control harness" should be done if the "dtc" comes back.
 

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I have no idea why the ABS and ESC lights would come on with a faulty crank sensor but good to see it's fixed. In relation to the CAN fault disregard as I got confused with who's post it was.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
I have no idea why the ABS and ESC lights would come on with a faulty crank sensor but good to see it's fixed. In relation to the CAN fault disregard as I got confused with who's post it was.
My understanding, and that is basic, is that since these bits are all connected and the car has a "limp mode" the esc and abs would be confused. I read an explanation that esc reduces engine power and does some braking to keep things headed in the right direction. When I read that it kind of made sense. I don't understand it, but it makes sense.

Hey charlescrown, just noticed the flag in your id. Thoughts and prayers to all in Australia. The world is watching and aware and ready to help when we can.
 

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Thanks. We have copped it big time and it's still going on. Every day is grey skys and sometimes low level smoke. We have a house on the south coast and it burnt all around but they saved all the local houses that we know of. We have been trying to get down there to see what's happening but a lot of the roads have been cut. I got a text from the electricity company saying they had cut the power off and they would let me know when it comes back on. That was 2 weeks ago and still waiting so the fridge contents might be a little off when we get there.
 

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Yeah, I got my crankshaft sensor in but just have had the time to replace it. But as Edee_em stated, I did a lot of reading that the CAN fault can occur when some of the sensors like the crankshaft, camshaft, and wheel speed sensor fails, and then it doesn't know what to do so it goes into a limp mode to be safe because there isn't an align me of signals/data between computer modules.
 

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Can codes are usually logged when there is a delay in receive time for data. I find them the most difficult because they don't specify what is going on. You may be correct in what you say about the sensor.
 

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Really would help to have a good scan tool. Need to see what's going on with the datastream for the ABS and related modules.
 

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Just replaced the crankshaft position sensor, and solved this problem for my GT. Been driving for 5 days no issues. Replacing the crankshaft position sensor is very easy and you can get the OEM part on amazon for like $25!
 
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