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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hey guys

I have flickering on all exterior lights, when car is running...its faint...but noticeable

I took it to dealer....they said alternator not charging..after a quick test from battery

so they order alt

I drove the car 4 days..so obviously...it was charging at some point

installed new alt today...and lights still flickering

i checked a bulb socket..volts wth multi meter..car running..13.99 volts...flipped over to HZ it goes 11.99 to 22.89 wildly back and forth
is that normal?

any ideas?

the flickering is constant...not something kicking on drawing power kind of flicker....more of hz flicker

no cel or any charging lights ever came on


please help
 

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Bring it back to the dealer and make them fix it right
Call up corporate and get case number for lemon law
Tell dealer you are well aware of your rights on new car
Document discussions and work done or not done
Done let them bully you.

Of course this could be something as simple as cleaning up the terminals and grounding points
But hey, it is under warranty
And new cars shouldn't have these issues
 

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Did they flicker before you changed the bulbs? Did you reinstall your original bulbs?


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Did they replace a defective alternator with another defective alternator? More than like this was not the problem.


No more simple power switches like an ignition switch that closes two contacts, extremely low power commands to the ECM and BCM's like five of these. Power switching is accomplished by relays, some under the dash, most under the hood in that fuse relay box, plus many 12V and ground connections.


If the alternator does not have a good ground its voltage regulator will go crazy. Battery terminals can also be just a small tad loose.


Will use the term when our vehicles were computerized were suppose to create 150,000 jobs for electronic techs, this never happened, using some guy good at replacing a muffler to do this job.


What is really crazy and dey all do dis, the computer that does the work is also suppose to troubleshoot itself, how can a defective computer troubleshoot itself? Ha, heard stupid things like, your bumper isn't falling off, ain't getting a code. Really need a host of electronic test equipment to work on these things, but practically all shop manuals tell you to use a trouble light or an ohmmeter. This whole thing is insane, blame the EPA, another group of idiots. Should know, had to work with these guys for over 40 years. Have the power, but no brains.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I did change to led, the leds show the flicker more than regular bulb... I re-installed the original bulbs, dealer said they would charge me if I did not return to original bulbs... no problem

but headlights/taillights... all flicker... not as noticeable with original... but still flicker

dealer was a complete ass...


i checked a bulb socket..volts wth multi meter..car running..13.99 volts...flipped over to HZ it goes 11.99 to 22.89 wildly back and forth
is that normal?
 

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My lights have flickered a little bit for the past few years. I may have not noticed it when i first got the car, it is faint. They only flicker when the engine RPM's around around 700-800. It seems fairly benign. My guess is that it has something to do with small mechanical vibrations.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
yes...sorry..did not see post...they did flicker before changing to leds

ive since returned to regular bulbs...and it still flickers

does not change with rpms..just random frequency flicker

its not as noticeable with stock bulbs........its faint...but its flickering none the less

if you have an elantra....just shine headlights onto wall or garage door....and watch flicker

nothing is kicking on or voltage draws kind of flicker....its more of a cycle/frequency flicker

the leds really show the flicker...normal bulbs are very mute/faint flicker.....
 

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Mazda 3's used to have an issue much like this, though the flickering would start when you used the brakes. A simple PCM update was all that was required to correct, but I have as of yet not heard of this for the Elantra
 

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Oscilloscope is the key test equipment for these kinds of problems, without one, will be blind. Placed across the battery terminals, besides reading the output voltage, the AC ripple should be less than 200 mv. Should rev the engine to 2,000 rpm, with loads on the alternator, blower at high speed draws 20 amperes, rear window defroster another 25, headlamps on bright, another 20.


With throttle by wire need an assistant to step on the gas pedal, but thinking on using a potentiometer to emulate that with a long cord.


Point contact relays are used for the headlamps, tend to arc with poor contacts, scope at the output should also show almost pure DC. Shop manual composers never heard of a scope, a VOM or test light are next to worthless. In practically any other field in electronics, waveforms are shown void in automotive. Sure can't find a dreaded shorted torn in an ignition coil, scope would show this instantly, idiots tell you to test this with an ohmmeter, worthless.



Use to draw each system circuit diagram on a huge foldout, 8,000 buck E size HP plotter in color is gathering dust, with the internet, insisted on all letter size. Instead of one large circuit diagram, have a ton of sheets. Had to buy a ping table to lay all these out, like 50. In ASIC design, cost $100,000.00 for chip design, just one error would waste this one, have to bat a thousand nothing less. And of course shop manuals are the same way but can't get the complete picture unless you turn many pages, world is going nuts.


Scope on my battery showed the voltage was dropping below 8.5 volts when the starter kicked in, could not get a proper power on reset causing problems with the ECM thermostat heater coming on when it wasn't suppose to. Took me all but five minutes to find the problem, dealers would take days or say this is normal or dey all do dis.



Not only Hyundai, dey all do dis, storing valuable code is an EPA thing, nothing short of stupid, just a tiny drop of electrons trapped in an FET gate tell the difference between a logical 1 or 0, if the controller does not see a command code it does not recognize, will crash.


Just a couple of things we are up again.


Just a hint from a guy that was an expert witness, by changing the lighting in your vehicle, you are accepting the liability. When our Cruze was rearended by a drunk, his insurance company check our rear lights, were OEM, but if they were even better, would claim this was the cause of the accident and would with their crooked attorneys void paying the claim.


Another thing about insurance companies, tie up the best law firms, you only get second best.
 

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Strongly recommend if you make any mods to your vehicle, report these to your insurance company and learn what they say.


Before 1972, could do anything you wanted to, each year getting worse.



Kind of shake my head watching all these auto shows on Discovery and Velocity, like sticking a 500 HP engine is a 66 Mustang, could only guess what insurance company would cover these.



In the automotive world one of our hugest expensives is liability insurance. Has to be passed unto the consumer.
 

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No flickering on my 18 Sport


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Same here with my Sport model, but I did change the Osram factory bulb (original bulb), with the Osram CBI for a crisp white color output. Besides the point of the topic, the Sport model is using a HID system which wouldn’t be a fair comparison to the topic since the guy swapped his out for a different system.

For those wondering where the OEM alternator is made, it’s made in Mexico! Maybe that has something to do with it.
 
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