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Discussion Starter #1
About a year ago, the alarm started to go off intermittently. Removed the batteries from key fobs and the problem stopped.

The problem returned recently with the batteries still removed. After three occurrences, we stopped locking the doors. I reviewed all similar forums and found that the most likely problem was the hood switch. The suggestion was to disconnect the hood switch and see if that solved the problem. However my 2007 Santa Fe, purchased February 2007, does not have the hood switch that everyone was referring to and appeared to not have a hood switch at all. I checked the manual and found a fuse that said only Alarm. I removed the fuse and the car would not start. So, fuse back in and back to square 1.

Then I noticed in the Honda forums that their hood switch was integral with the hood latch. I checked and found that their was a wire and connection associated with the hood latch. I tried to disconnect the wire but was unable to do so without fear of doing damage to the connector and did not want to chance not being able to start the car.

So, booked an appointment with the dealer service department for Thursday, thinking that they would have the proper scanner to diagnose the problem. Diagnosis fee $118. Called Friday afternoon to check on progress. The car is sitting outside on the lot with the alarm on, but they have not been able to duplicate the problem. Can't you just scan? No, there is no code for the alarm system! Then I cannot understand why you want to duplicate the problem. If the alarm goes off, you need to unlock the car to access the interior or under the hood and you have shut the alarm off, so what use was that? I am telling you the alarm goes off intermittently, why do you need to duplicate it?

I arrived at the dealer at 8:30 Saturday morning. The car was sitting outside. I asked to speak with the technician that was assigned and met him at the car. It's 8:30 and you start at 8:00, why aren't you working on my car? We are supposed to work on walk-in oil changes first. Of course, up-sell oil change to rad flush, brake fluid flush, transmission flush comes before my work because mine is stuck on the lot.

I said, Hyundai Forum says hood switch is the most likely cause, can you disconnect it? He reaches down and disconnects it easily, but says he cannot do this because it is a safety hazard. I say, just leave it disconnected for a few days and I will not take it on the highway, so we can see if that is the problem. He says he will have to talk to the service manager. I'm pretty sure they will come back with you have to replace the hood switch at $250. we cannot disconnect it.

Call service manager around noon to see what's going on. He has not talked to technician but will do so now. No response by 1:00 PM, so call and say we are coming to pick up car.

Arrive at dealer to find car not outside? Service manager says they brought it inside and taped the switch and other end of connecting wire harness and placed a quick tie around the connecting wire to keep it away from the cooling fan.

Service manager starts to write up bill and I ask if he intends to charge me for this. I point out that the car sat here for 2 days with no work done and then I diagnosed the problem myself today, so what are they charging me for? After some discussion, he agrees to reduce charge by 50%, which I'm reasonably happy with because I could not disconnect the wire.

So, the car has been used for the past two and a half days, locked while parked with no alarm problems.

I sincerely hope this is the end of the problem.
 

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Alarm Problem

I had the same problem on my 2007 3.3L. The alarm would go off during the night also the outdoor ambient temp would not display. Traced problem to bad ground from negative battery cable to inner fender well. I removed paint and cleaned up the screws and haven't had a problem. Also my outdoor ambient temperature display now works. Alarm problem was always worse after a rainstorm.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
It has now been a week without the alarm going off, so we are doubly hopeful that the problem has been solved!
 

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It has now been a week without the alarm going off, so we are doubly hopeful that the problem has been solved!
I dont think alarm will arm with missing input from hood..

Roll driver window down... exit cabin and act like you lock and arm alarm with remote.. wait a bit..

Reach in through open window (better than having to bust window out) and open door with inside handle... did the alarm sound ??
 

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Discussion Starter #5
sbr711: Thank you, I tried your experiment.

Surprisingly, the alarm was armed and went off when I opened the door with the interior handle. I thought like you, that the alarm would not arm because of the missing hood switch component. However, it is armed but is not going off intermittently.

Fingers crossed that this problem has been solved.

Thanks again.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
deesperson:

Sorry, I missed your post before this.

Thanks for the advice. I will do as you suggested, check the grounding cable and service if required.

Thanks again.
 

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Alarm Problem

The negative battery cable connects to a rectangular aluminum block which bolts to a painted fender well thru 2 small screws. If I remember right I had to remove the fuse box and sand/scrape the paint, clean the screws and apply NoOx to mating surfaces.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Happy to report that, after disconnecting the hood switch 5 weeks ago, the alarm has not gone off again. Faulty hood switch seems to have been the problem.
 
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