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Just got a new 2018 Elantra SE. Got all the aesthetics done. I want start working on performance. I’m new so naturally I’m starting with intake and exhaust. That being said, can I add a cold air intake without a performance chip?
 

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And kill your MAF and dust the engine internals .


OE air filters filter best , way better , in fact a used filter , filters best as some of the larger pores get reduced .

Performance filters = performance marketing .
 

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Theory is cold air is more dense resulting in a higher compression ratio for a tad more HP. But real life is different, goes past the fuel injector causing the sprayed fuel to become droplets that do not ignite very well resulting in poor performance and increased carbon buildup in your engine.

Theory is, the guys that designed the Atkinson engine are idiots and non-engineers know more than they do. Getting 147 brake HP out of a little 122 CID non-turbo engine is quite an accomplishment and as Gazwould stated, you will wreck your MAF sensor and really lose HP and performance. What you will get is more noise and even more is you fool with the exhaust. Catalytic converter is the key culprit, but if you get rid of that and caught, a $25,000.00 fine.

Ha, was a rumor for years that the oil companies had a 50 mpg carburetor, if you keep your Elantra clean, put it at least 91 octane ethanol free fuel and drive it sanely, you will get 50 mpg.
 

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I wanted to take the box off and replace it with a big cone filter
More noise and more dirt into the engine is what you'll get.

If you could remove everything before the throttle body, filter and all,
and still get cold air, the reduction in restriction would gain 2-3 hp.
That's the theoretical limit.

Save your $$ for things like oil changes, paying off the loan early etc.
(unless you pay cash for cars like me)
 

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More noise and more dirt into the engine is what you'll get.

If you could remove everything before the throttle body, filter and all,
and still get cold air, the reduction in restriction would gain 2-3 hp.
That's the theoretical limit.

Save your $$ for things like oil changes, paying off the loan early etc.
(unless you pay cash for cars like me)
How did you manage to pay cash for yours, was told they would knock off a thousand bucks if I financed at least $10,000.00 and made 48 payments interest free. Said okay, but after 3 weeks contacted Hyundai finance, and asked if my first payment could be $10,000.00, they said fine.

I received the car title with a lean on it, about two weeks later received a new title lean free, this cost them money like a hundred bucks. But still received that $1,000.00 discount.

How can Hyundai make money with an interest free loan, reading all the fine print, if you make a payment 1 second late would be in for a stiff late payment charge.

Banks could screw you back then when you sent your check in by mail, claim they never got it in time. But today with direct deposit, you have the exact date as proof.

Ha, why do I feel like car dealers always want to screw us? Maybe because of about 70 years of experience.
 

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Performance chips, another rip off, first claim you have to use top tier least 91 octane ethanol free gas. Can never trust E10, can very easily get, E9, 8, 7, 6, 5, 4 3, 2, 1, 0 or put another way, 80 octane.

2.0L engine can give you as much as a 11:1 compression ration or 33 degrees before top dead center spark advance for a much longer combustion chamber cycle, but only if you give it top tier high octane ethanol free gas.

EPA lies like crazy, never tell us what kind of fuel they are using in their fuel economy test. But liked the kind of lying with our 2017 Limited of only 39 MPG highway, more like 51 MPG.

Putting crap in your tank is like putting crap in your body, either is not good for you or your car.

Hyundai also does not say what type of fuel they are using to get 147 HP.

Also since practically all gas stations are required by law to put their tanks underground. You can also fill up with ground wate. E10 tanks require continuous recirculation as ethanol does not form a homogeneous solution with gasoline, its heavier than gas and settles to the bottom. In your tank used up first, ethanol is an incredibly stupid idea done by idiots pretending to save the environment as just as much fossil fuel, one gallon per gallon is used to produce it.
 

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Just got a new 2018 Elantra SE. Got all the aesthetics done. I want start working on performance. I’m new so naturally I’m starting with intake and exhaust. That being said, can I add a cold air intake without a performance chip?
AEM has an aftermarket air intake available. It claims to gain about 8.15HP
Capture+_2020-07-08-01-22-04.png
 

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What about clipping a permanent magnet unto you input fuel line, super charges your fuel with high magnetic energy. Another one was a little air driven fan blade between your throttle body and intake manifold that super charges your engine.

There is a sucker born every minute.
 

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2017 Elantra SE, Popular and Tech Packages
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I'd watch this video before deciding whether or not you want to go to a performance air filter.
 

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the best bang for the buck is weight. a long time ago, i think it was road and track took a nissan sentra and removed weight, then went to the dragstrip. it was impressive gains. they removed the doors, glass, interior, dash, bumpers. an added plus is that you could sell all that stuff. if you are wanting to track the car, then make it stiffer. a shop in kcmo took an old bmw 2002 and, using parts they had from other cars, made it into a circle track racer. bavaria control arms gave it serious negative camber. they welded angle iron into the rocker panels, made the car so stiff that when jacked up at the front corner, the whole car came up on that side. car was so fast, it would lap the field.
 

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I've always wanted one until after watching that awhile back. Surprised companies don't make air filters that are like these "eco" ones that comes with these vehicles in come like shape form. I'd buy that AEM intake ASAP if they offered a filter that catches more crap but oh well.
I'd watch this video before deciding whether or not you want to go to a performance air filter.
 

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What about clipping a permanent magnet unto you input fuel line, super charges your fuel with high magnetic energy. Another one was a little air driven fan blade between your throttle body and intake manifold that super charges your engine.

There is a sucker born every minute.
When I've seen those I immediately knew it was a scam. Even those gas saver things that plugs into your charger port.
 

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With super strict EPA and DOT requirements all these so-called aftermarket performance companies can play with is before the throttle body and after the catalytic converter.

Where really the major components for fuel economy and performance is between these two relatively insignificant items.

But is a very good way to reduce the weight of your wallet. And overall, your performance will be poorer.
 

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Its really simple, you pretty much either chose flow or filtration. OEM Paper filters typically filter intake air the best, Second best I found was the bllitz foam mushroom filters from Japan. K&N and other cone filters are hardly filters at all. Like many said before me they can allow more HP due to the ability to allow a lot more air in, with that air though is particles you don't want in your engine. They will often produce higher numbers in perfect conditions where you have kept the air cooler than just throwing a cone filter in an open engine bay with no protection from heat. The colder the air the denser the air. A few years back I flow bench tested about 30 different air filters with a measured out amount of contamination being put into air supply. Then looked at CFMs through filter and weighed captured particulates. OEM paper filters are great for filtration but are quite restrictive. Like everything in life its a balance and really depends on what you want out of your car.
 

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Oxygen sensor in the exhaust doesn't want to see oxygen, so it increases the dwell of the injectors until that O2 lever drops to zero. Recently, EPA demanded two O2 sensors, where one is keeping track of the other. Would get a code if either too rich or lean, not sure which one is bad so replace both of them.

The more air you put in, the greater the combustion force and power, done by supercharging or a turbine, but compressing air makes is hot, so much in a diesel engine don't even need a spark plug to ignite it.

But for a gas engine in particular, that air has to be cooled first so a radiator like thing is added to the front of the radiator that already has a condenser in front of it. Doesn't cool it to ambient, but much cooler than the output of the of the turbo. So get the best of the two worlds, compressed air plus heated air to vaporize the fuel.

For a non-turbo engine the cross sectional area of the throttle body is only a fraction of the size of the air filter, so not much loss there. Then it also warms the air, you can measure this with instruments for far superior atomization of the gasoline for better combustion.

A major sensor in these engines is a knock sensor, the 2.0L non-turbo engine has both ignition spark delay and actually decreases compression in the cylinder by closing the intake valve. The worse thing you can add is low octane fuel and this can happen, if enough ethanol wasn't added, your fuel octane can drop to 80 without it.

So instead of get a compression ratio of 11:1, can be greatly reduced to even 7:1, plus your spark advance is greatly retarded to help prevent detonation. If you want more performance have to buy a higher octane fuel and will also increase fuel economy, avoid cut rate gas stations.

During WW II the North American Mustang received 150 octane fuel, the German 109 was lucky to even get 90, one key reason the 109 didn't stand a chance against the P-51.

Another trick used back then was water injection to prevent detonation, was considered for our vehicles, but considered too complicated for the average driver.

The 2.0 Elantra engine actually a 122 cubic engine with 147 BHP, is getting 1.2 HP per cube that is fantastic for a non-turbo engine. Don't want to mess it up with aftermarket crap, all lies anyway.
 

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The 2.0 Elantra engine actually a 122 cubic engine with 147 BHP, is getting 1.2 HP per cube that is fantastic for a non-turbo engine. Don't want to mess it up with aftermarket crap, all lies anyway.
Agreed this is a great engine for the intended purpose. And with an honest 40+mpg highway fuel efficiency.
I'm another NO-TURBO fan (for daily driving), BTW. Turbo's add more complexity and tend to run best on Premium ($$$) fuel.
 

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Agreed this is a great engine for the intended purpose. And with an honest 40+mpg highway fuel efficiency.
I'm another NO-TURBO fan (for daily driving), BTW. Turbo's add more complexity and tend to run best on Premium ($$$) fuel.
Agreed but idk how I'd feel if someone was to actually get a turbo (most likely a small one. Big ones would make it go boom) on these 2.0L to work flawlessly.

It would Probably Tell the Pistons and rods to uhhhh disappear. I honestly wish I had the money to buy a salvaged elantra and just slap a turb on it just for shizzles n' gigs. Sucks that only the eco and sport models gets the turbs.
 
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