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Erroneous theory is cold air is more dense therefore increasing the compression ratio for more power. Fact is, cold air leaves fuel droplets that does not ignite as well as vaporized fuel causing misfires.


One reason why we are stuck with the poor fuel economy winter gas.it more volatile than summer gas, but only goof for the first few mile or an extra minute or two until the engine warms up.


Engineers are idiots, don't even know how to design a good air cleaner according to these aftermarket people.



One thing for sure, besides poorer performance, you will get more noise. .
 

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Its usually not a cold air intake. What is usually sold is a freer flowing air filter. Your power gain is from reducing parasitic pumping losses. The engine is an air pump and there is mechanical resistance sucking air thru a restrictive air filter/tubing. Turbos benefit more than NA's from free flowing intake systems.

I don't worry about fuel droplets from cold air. We have injectors that do a **** good job of taking care of the fuel atomization. Keep the injectors clean with premium toptier fuel and a bottle PEA FI cleaners once or twice a year.

I also don't have poor fuel economy when comparing summer/winter fuels. Lubricants take a long time to warm up and causes the increase in parasitic drag when cold. In the old days, we ran 100% gasoline in the summer and 90%gas/10%alcohol for winter usage, and conventional 10w40 20w50 oils. Now, we are running E10 year round with 5w20. In the old days, it was very noticeable when the 5-10% methanol, MTBE, ethanol... were added for winter clean air requirements in CARB copy SMOG states. Now, year round MPG difference is minimal as many cars run synthetic fluids, usually thin grades to begin with, E10 year round everywhere, and very adaptive engine control. For many owners, using a tire PSI gauge is rocket science and low PSI adds to the causes for winter MPG loss. I guess it doesn't help because that cold winter air makes my engine more responsive and turns commuters into speedracers which doesn't help MPG.

Concerning intakes, like any newer vehicle, you just have to wait for manufacturers to produce aftermarket products. You should submit a request to the 'major' or 'common' players for your specific year/make/model/engine.... and convince others on forums to do so too. And, then you wait. Or, you volunteer your vehicle to the manufacturer so that they can develop a product.

Check with AEM and KN. AFE, Injen, WeaponR, Takeda, Volant, Airaid.... are an email away for info.

For many vehicles, DIY might be your only option if you can't wait. AEM dry filter is available. Holesaw the airbox and use some HomeDepotLowes plumbing, or ebay accordion tube, for creating your own intake system. For warm climates, the heated throttle body isn't necessary. So, bypass it.

Try premium fuel and synthetic 0w grade oils. Check the gear oil grade requirement for the manual transmission as a full synthetic might free up some drag.

And, if you don't mind a rental or uber, you can pull the pulleys off the engine, send them to a pulley manufacturer, and have them make some lightweight and/or mildly underdriven pulleys. UR will usually prototype pulleys if you send them your pulleys, and year/make/model/engine info along with goals.

Reduce weight of vehicle. Only psychotic preppers need spare tires/tools and OE eternal reserve heavy car batteries. Weightloss is a great way to improve performance. Start a slimfast diet until your BMI <18.5%. I haven't seen a carbonfiber hood for your year. So, find a CF hood manufacturer and ship them your hood. For a mild fee, they'll clone it in CF saving a couple pounds too. And, weight the factory wheels. I bet you could find some aftermarket wheels that are several pounds lighter. Each wheel is a 'flywheel'. How much do you want to spend for 1-5hp or 20lbs in reduced weight? $1000's?

Tell the EPA the injectors finally atomized the fuel so no need for winter gas, somehow we got by without it for over 100 years, and this was even without fuel injectors.


Heat value of so-called winter gas is 23% less than summer gas, and this is just about the decrease in fuel economy we receive from it. Add butane and oxygen so more expensive to produce that is reflected at the pump.
 

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Couple extra seconds less in the quarter mile or just more noise, what about running it on a dynamometer? What about improved fuel economy, not easy on the road, just too many variables.


Still have an old AF ratio meter, cruise was set at 14.7, power at 12:1, done by resizing the jets and the tapered rods on a carburetor type car, set too lean, would toast your engine, too rich, carbon built up. With fuel injector cars, the O2 sensor does this for you.


Ignition timing is very critical, while a couple of degrees doesn't make any difference at idle, sure does at top speeds. Best way to adjust it was on level ground and use a tach for the maximum speed, and sure made a huge difference in the octane grade you were using.


Anti-knock sensors do this for you, and the lower octane fuel you use, the much shorter the combustion cycle. If you read the fine print on so-called tune kits, tell you only to use the highest octane fuel you can buy. Aftermarket folks can only play with two things, cat back exhaust at the output, air cleaner on the input, anything in between, and be fined as much as $40,000.00 per vehicle by the EPA.


Actually worse restriction is from the cat, while legal to sell bypass kits and advertise them can get a $40,000.00 fine if caught installing them, but only on public highways and streets, okay for offroad use.



Air cleaner people says if you install theirs with engine warranty problems, they have prove that cleaner caused your problem, but kind of fail to say, you have to prove it did not. Would have to hire automotive experts and attorneys to fight this in court.


Mods were our favorite pass time, but in 1972, Nixon, new EPA, this all changed.
 

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Government has been telling us for years, we have to cut our fossil fuel usage by 10%, reason not to purchase fuel of OPEC and the reason for using our food to power our SUV's/


If everybody drove an Elantra, and screw winter gas, could cut our fuel usage by 50%. our CAFE ratings are far worse today than in 1985!


In terms of performance with my Limited, left a Corvette in the dust with a 2.0L engine, not at the first traffic light, he took off at like a bat only to slam on his brakes at the next one. Took off slow and easy and passed him at the second light at 35 mph where the four lane converged into a two lane with a yellow line on our side, had no choice to follow me that was quite a distance.


Doesn't take lots of HP, just an ounce worth of brains.
 
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