Hyundai Forums banner
1 - 4 of 4 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey I've got a 2017 base model elantra gt hatchback and I'm having a hard time finding a a decent quality air intake for the new whip, let alone a lot of other parts, but I'm assuming that has something to do with it being a 2017.

I'm looking for something fairly basic, nothing over top. Just to add that tiny bit of low end torque, which is sort of non existent, but you get what I'm saying.

Thanks for the help in advance.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Its usually not a cold air intake. What is usually sold is a freer flowing air filter. Your power gain is from reducing parasitic pumping losses. The engine is an air pump and there is mechanical resistance sucking air thru a restrictive air filter/tubing. Turbos benefit more than NA's from free flowing intake systems.

I don't worry about fuel droplets from cold air. We have injectors that do a **** good job of taking care of the fuel atomization. Keep the injectors clean with premium toptier fuel and a bottle PEA FI cleaners once or twice a year.

I also don't have poor fuel economy when comparing summer/winter fuels. Lubricants take a long time to warm up and causes the increase in parasitic drag when cold. In the old days, we ran 100% gasoline in the summer and 90%gas/10%alcohol for winter usage, and conventional 10w40 20w50 oils. Now, we are running E10 year round with 5w20. In the old days, it was very noticeable when the 5-10% methanol, MTBE, ethanol... were added for winter clean air requirements in CARB copy SMOG states. Now, year round MPG difference is minimal as many cars run synthetic fluids, usually thin grades to begin with, E10 year round everywhere, and very adaptive engine control. For many owners, using a tire PSI gauge is rocket science and low PSI adds to the causes for winter MPG loss. I guess it doesn't help because that cold winter air makes my engine more responsive and turns commuters into speedracers which doesn't help MPG.

Concerning intakes, like any newer vehicle, you just have to wait for manufacturers to produce aftermarket products. You should submit a request to the 'major' or 'common' players for your specific year/make/model/engine.... and convince others on forums to do so too. And, then you wait. Or, you volunteer your vehicle to the manufacturer so that they can develop a product.

Check with AEM and KN. AFE, Injen, WeaponR, Takeda, Volant, Airaid.... are an email away for info.

For many vehicles, DIY might be your only option if you can't wait. AEM dry filter is available. Holesaw the airbox and use some HomeDepotLowes plumbing, or ebay accordion tube, for creating your own intake system. For warm climates, the heated throttle body isn't necessary. So, bypass it.

Try premium fuel and synthetic 0w grade oils. Check the gear oil grade requirement for the manual transmission as a full synthetic might free up some drag.

And, if you don't mind a rental or uber, you can pull the pulleys off the engine, send them to a pulley manufacturer, and have them make some lightweight and/or mildly underdriven pulleys. UR will usually prototype pulleys if you send them your pulleys, and year/make/model/engine info along with goals.

Reduce weight of vehicle. Only psychotic preppers need spare tires/tools and OE eternal reserve heavy car batteries. Weightloss is a great way to improve performance. Start a slimfast diet until your BMI <18.5%. I haven't seen a carbonfiber hood for your year. So, find a CF hood manufacturer and ship them your hood. For a mild fee, they'll clone it in CF saving a couple pounds too. And, weight the factory wheels. I bet you could find some aftermarket wheels that are several pounds lighter. Each wheel is a 'flywheel'. How much do you want to spend for 1-5hp or 20lbs in reduced weight? $1000's?
Little late to reply since I've been busy the past few days, but I was also thinking of, I guess you could say, fabricating my own CAI by measuring the inside of the bay and ordering custom silicone and metal tubing as well as an air filter. I haven't looked into it too much, but that's about all I've got for ideas.

As for rims I'm looking at getting a set of Enkei's here in a few months.

Also bare with me as I'm new to the car world and getting into specifics about specs and how the car runs when modifying it in little ways like filters, injectors, etc.

Sorry if I sound dumb I truly just have no knowledge - partially why I'm here.

And lastly is premium worth buying? I bought premium a few times and I was told that it gives you a few more miles comparing the distance to cost ratio with premium and normal gasoline, but I didn't seem to see and difference and just spent more money for my gas. I'll be honest I did it once and nothing changed so I said F that and went back to 87. I'm impatient and I'm not sure if there needs to be time for something to change like that.

Thanks for your input and information on the subject.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
There's no need for a CAI on an elantra, it already has one. The intake is right above (and not behind) the radiator. If you plug a OBD 2 reader into your car, you'll find that your intake temperature usually runs about 20-25 degrees F above ambient right at your intake manifold.

CAI's are a thing of the past anyway, they gave your '95 honda civic a boost because of the way the civic was designed, but cars are different now days.

Due to electronic throttles, variable induction, valve timing, and ignition, the ECU compensates for any shift in intake temperature or other variable to make the most of what it is given.
You're right, I must just being finding dumb ways to work on my car. :grin:
 
1 - 4 of 4 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top