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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey I've got a 2017 base model elantra gt hatchback and I'm having a hard time finding a a decent quality air intake for the new whip, let alone a lot of other parts, but I'm assuming that has something to do with it being a 2017.

I'm looking for something fairly basic, nothing over top. Just to add that tiny bit of low end torque, which is sort of non existent, but you get what I'm saying.

Thanks for the help in advance.
 

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Erroneous theory is cold air is more dense therefore increasing the compression ratio for more power. Fact is, cold air leaves fuel droplets that does not ignite as well as vaporized fuel causing misfires.


One reason why we are stuck with the poor fuel economy winter gas.it more volatile than summer gas, but only goof for the first few mile or an extra minute or two until the engine warms up.


Engineers are idiots, don't even know how to design a good air cleaner according to these aftermarket people.



One thing for sure, besides poorer performance, you will get more noise. .
 

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Its usually not a cold air intake. What is usually sold is a freer flowing air filter. Your power gain is from reducing parasitic pumping losses. The engine is an air pump and there is mechanical resistance sucking air thru a restrictive air filter/tubing. Turbos benefit more than NA's from free flowing intake systems.

I don't worry about fuel droplets from cold air. We have injectors that do a **** good job of taking care of the fuel atomization. Keep the injectors clean with premium toptier fuel and a bottle PEA FI cleaners once or twice a year.

I also don't have poor fuel economy when comparing summer/winter fuels. Lubricants take a long time to warm up and causes the increase in parasitic drag when cold. In the old days, we ran 100% gasoline in the summer and 90%gas/10%alcohol for winter usage, and conventional 10w40 20w50 oils. Now, we are running E10 year round with 5w20. In the old days, it was very noticeable when the 5-10% methanol, MTBE, ethanol... were added for winter clean air requirements in CARB copy SMOG states. Now, year round MPG difference is minimal as many cars run synthetic fluids, usually thin grades to begin with, E10 year round everywhere, and very adaptive engine control. For many owners, using a tire PSI gauge is rocket science and low PSI adds to the causes for winter MPG loss. I guess it doesn't help because that cold winter air makes my engine more responsive and turns commuters into speedracers which doesn't help MPG.

Concerning intakes, like any newer vehicle, you just have to wait for manufacturers to produce aftermarket products. You should submit a request to the 'major' or 'common' players for your specific year/make/model/engine.... and convince others on forums to do so too. And, then you wait. Or, you volunteer your vehicle to the manufacturer so that they can develop a product.

Check with AEM and KN. AFE, Injen, WeaponR, Takeda, Volant, Airaid.... are an email away for info.

For many vehicles, DIY might be your only option if you can't wait. AEM dry filter is available. Holesaw the airbox and use some HomeDepotLowes plumbing, or ebay accordion tube, for creating your own intake system. For warm climates, the heated throttle body isn't necessary. So, bypass it.

Try premium fuel and synthetic 0w grade oils. Check the gear oil grade requirement for the manual transmission as a full synthetic might free up some drag.

And, if you don't mind a rental or uber, you can pull the pulleys off the engine, send them to a pulley manufacturer, and have them make some lightweight and/or mildly underdriven pulleys. UR will usually prototype pulleys if you send them your pulleys, and year/make/model/engine info along with goals.

Reduce weight of vehicle. Only psychotic preppers need spare tires/tools and OE eternal reserve heavy car batteries. Weightloss is a great way to improve performance. Start a slimfast diet until your BMI <18.5%. I haven't seen a carbonfiber hood for your year. So, find a CF hood manufacturer and ship them your hood. For a mild fee, they'll clone it in CF saving a couple pounds too. And, weight the factory wheels. I bet you could find some aftermarket wheels that are several pounds lighter. Each wheel is a 'flywheel'. How much do you want to spend for 1-5hp or 20lbs in reduced weight? $1000's?
 

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You should post this in the Elantra GT forum. That is a different vehicle from the AD (2017+ Elantra sedan).
 

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Its usually not a cold air intake. What is usually sold is a freer flowing air filter. Your power gain is from reducing parasitic pumping losses. The engine is an air pump and there is mechanical resistance sucking air thru a restrictive air filter/tubing. Turbos benefit more than NA's from free flowing intake systems.

I don't worry about fuel droplets from cold air. We have injectors that do a **** good job of taking care of the fuel atomization. Keep the injectors clean with premium toptier fuel and a bottle PEA FI cleaners once or twice a year.

I also don't have poor fuel economy when comparing summer/winter fuels. Lubricants take a long time to warm up and causes the increase in parasitic drag when cold. In the old days, we ran 100% gasoline in the summer and 90%gas/10%alcohol for winter usage, and conventional 10w40 20w50 oils. Now, we are running E10 year round with 5w20. In the old days, it was very noticeable when the 5-10% methanol, MTBE, ethanol... were added for winter clean air requirements in CARB copy SMOG states. Now, year round MPG difference is minimal as many cars run synthetic fluids, usually thin grades to begin with, E10 year round everywhere, and very adaptive engine control. For many owners, using a tire PSI gauge is rocket science and low PSI adds to the causes for winter MPG loss. I guess it doesn't help because that cold winter air makes my engine more responsive and turns commuters into speedracers which doesn't help MPG.

Concerning intakes, like any newer vehicle, you just have to wait for manufacturers to produce aftermarket products. You should submit a request to the 'major' or 'common' players for your specific year/make/model/engine.... and convince others on forums to do so too. And, then you wait. Or, you volunteer your vehicle to the manufacturer so that they can develop a product.

Check with AEM and KN. AFE, Injen, WeaponR, Takeda, Volant, Airaid.... are an email away for info.

For many vehicles, DIY might be your only option if you can't wait. AEM dry filter is available. Holesaw the airbox and use some HomeDepotLowes plumbing, or ebay accordion tube, for creating your own intake system. For warm climates, the heated throttle body isn't necessary. So, bypass it.

Try premium fuel and synthetic 0w grade oils. Check the gear oil grade requirement for the manual transmission as a full synthetic might free up some drag.

And, if you don't mind a rental or uber, you can pull the pulleys off the engine, send them to a pulley manufacturer, and have them make some lightweight and/or mildly underdriven pulleys. UR will usually prototype pulleys if you send them your pulleys, and year/make/model/engine info along with goals.

Reduce weight of vehicle. Only psychotic preppers need spare tires/tools and OE eternal reserve heavy car batteries. Weightloss is a great way to improve performance. Start a slimfast diet until your BMI <18.5%. I haven't seen a carbonfiber hood for your year. So, find a CF hood manufacturer and ship them your hood. For a mild fee, they'll clone it in CF saving a couple pounds too. And, weight the factory wheels. I bet you could find some aftermarket wheels that are several pounds lighter. Each wheel is a 'flywheel'. How much do you want to spend for 1-5hp or 20lbs in reduced weight? $1000's?

Tell the EPA the injectors finally atomized the fuel so no need for winter gas, somehow we got by without it for over 100 years, and this was even without fuel injectors.


Heat value of so-called winter gas is 23% less than summer gas, and this is just about the decrease in fuel economy we receive from it. Add butane and oxygen so more expensive to produce that is reflected at the pump.
 

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No way is it 23%.... closer to 2%
 

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There's no need for a CAI on an elantra, it already has one. The intake is right above (and not behind) the radiator. If you plug a OBD 2 reader into your car, you'll find that your intake temperature usually runs about 20-25 degrees F above ambient right at your intake manifold.

CAI's are a thing of the past anyway, they gave your '95 honda civic a boost because of the way the civic was designed, but cars are different now days.

Due to electronic throttles, variable induction, valve timing, and ignition, the ECU compensates for any shift in intake temperature or other variable to make the most of what it is given.
 

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There's no need for a CAI on an elantra, it already has one. The intake is right above (and not behind) the radiator. If you plug a OBD 2 reader into your car, you'll find that your intake temperature usually runs about 20-25 degrees F above ambient right at your intake manifold.

CAI's are a thing of the past anyway, they gave your '95 honda civic a boost because of the way the civic was designed, but cars are different now days.

Due to electronic throttles, variable induction, valve timing, and ignition, the ECU compensates for any shift in intake temperature or other variable to make the most of what it is given.
Yes, but CAI's look and sound MUCH cooler! :cool:
 

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No way is it 23%.... closer to 2%


Read about 2%, 65 mph on summer gas, 50+ mpg, hard to hit even 37 mpg with winter gas, all my vehicles were and are this way.



For years heat value for a US gallon was 120,000 BTU, with winter, down to 93,000 BTU's, have no idea where you are getting your info from.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Its usually not a cold air intake. What is usually sold is a freer flowing air filter. Your power gain is from reducing parasitic pumping losses. The engine is an air pump and there is mechanical resistance sucking air thru a restrictive air filter/tubing. Turbos benefit more than NA's from free flowing intake systems.

I don't worry about fuel droplets from cold air. We have injectors that do a **** good job of taking care of the fuel atomization. Keep the injectors clean with premium toptier fuel and a bottle PEA FI cleaners once or twice a year.

I also don't have poor fuel economy when comparing summer/winter fuels. Lubricants take a long time to warm up and causes the increase in parasitic drag when cold. In the old days, we ran 100% gasoline in the summer and 90%gas/10%alcohol for winter usage, and conventional 10w40 20w50 oils. Now, we are running E10 year round with 5w20. In the old days, it was very noticeable when the 5-10% methanol, MTBE, ethanol... were added for winter clean air requirements in CARB copy SMOG states. Now, year round MPG difference is minimal as many cars run synthetic fluids, usually thin grades to begin with, E10 year round everywhere, and very adaptive engine control. For many owners, using a tire PSI gauge is rocket science and low PSI adds to the causes for winter MPG loss. I guess it doesn't help because that cold winter air makes my engine more responsive and turns commuters into speedracers which doesn't help MPG.

Concerning intakes, like any newer vehicle, you just have to wait for manufacturers to produce aftermarket products. You should submit a request to the 'major' or 'common' players for your specific year/make/model/engine.... and convince others on forums to do so too. And, then you wait. Or, you volunteer your vehicle to the manufacturer so that they can develop a product.

Check with AEM and KN. AFE, Injen, WeaponR, Takeda, Volant, Airaid.... are an email away for info.

For many vehicles, DIY might be your only option if you can't wait. AEM dry filter is available. Holesaw the airbox and use some HomeDepotLowes plumbing, or ebay accordion tube, for creating your own intake system. For warm climates, the heated throttle body isn't necessary. So, bypass it.

Try premium fuel and synthetic 0w grade oils. Check the gear oil grade requirement for the manual transmission as a full synthetic might free up some drag.

And, if you don't mind a rental or uber, you can pull the pulleys off the engine, send them to a pulley manufacturer, and have them make some lightweight and/or mildly underdriven pulleys. UR will usually prototype pulleys if you send them your pulleys, and year/make/model/engine info along with goals.

Reduce weight of vehicle. Only psychotic preppers need spare tires/tools and OE eternal reserve heavy car batteries. Weightloss is a great way to improve performance. Start a slimfast diet until your BMI <18.5%. I haven't seen a carbonfiber hood for your year. So, find a CF hood manufacturer and ship them your hood. For a mild fee, they'll clone it in CF saving a couple pounds too. And, weight the factory wheels. I bet you could find some aftermarket wheels that are several pounds lighter. Each wheel is a 'flywheel'. How much do you want to spend for 1-5hp or 20lbs in reduced weight? $1000's?
Little late to reply since I've been busy the past few days, but I was also thinking of, I guess you could say, fabricating my own CAI by measuring the inside of the bay and ordering custom silicone and metal tubing as well as an air filter. I haven't looked into it too much, but that's about all I've got for ideas.

As for rims I'm looking at getting a set of Enkei's here in a few months.

Also bare with me as I'm new to the car world and getting into specifics about specs and how the car runs when modifying it in little ways like filters, injectors, etc.

Sorry if I sound dumb I truly just have no knowledge - partially why I'm here.

And lastly is premium worth buying? I bought premium a few times and I was told that it gives you a few more miles comparing the distance to cost ratio with premium and normal gasoline, but I didn't seem to see and difference and just spent more money for my gas. I'll be honest I did it once and nothing changed so I said F that and went back to 87. I'm impatient and I'm not sure if there needs to be time for something to change like that.

Thanks for your input and information on the subject.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
There's no need for a CAI on an elantra, it already has one. The intake is right above (and not behind) the radiator. If you plug a OBD 2 reader into your car, you'll find that your intake temperature usually runs about 20-25 degrees F above ambient right at your intake manifold.

CAI's are a thing of the past anyway, they gave your '95 honda civic a boost because of the way the civic was designed, but cars are different now days.

Due to electronic throttles, variable induction, valve timing, and ignition, the ECU compensates for any shift in intake temperature or other variable to make the most of what it is given.
You're right, I must just being finding dumb ways to work on my car. :grin:
 

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Throw injectors in the "Don't bother" catagory. If there actually happens to be anything aftermarket, it'll just be a direct replacement for your stock injectors. And you'll see zero gains after having spend a bunch of money on them. They won't even look cool like your CAI
 

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Premium fuel is not worth buying for a car that does not require it stock. it will do absolutely nothing for a car that requires only 87 octane fuel.

Since you seem interested in modifying your car for performance, the cheapest and most effective way i can recommend that you modify your car is an ECU reprogram. Just be warned that it will void the warranty on your car, and you could damage your engine if you aren't careful.
 

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Since you seem interested in modifying your car for performance, the cheapest and most effective way i can recommend that you modify your car is an ECU reprogram. Just be warned that it will void the warranty on your car, and you could damage your engine if you aren't careful.
HaHa —> what’s the point on doing all that on the ‘base’ GT model? I could see someone going the distance if they purchased the Sport version with a turbo.

It’s not that simple just to slap in a remapped tune and hope for the best. If anyone goes the distance with a tune, first I would replace the restrictive OEM intercooler, then change the plugs, adding dual catch cans, and finally using 5W40 oil. If anyone goes that far, yeah...I’m sure they have a CAI at the point beforehand.

I have the Sport model Elantra 2018 (as several here are aware). One for the coolest mods was adding the cold side intercooler pipe which allowed me to add my HKS BOV. I love it when my car makes that chirp sound from the BOV. Another awesome aftermarket mod was the lower engine mount. Man, the car responds much better after adding it.
 
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HaHa —> what’s the point on doing all that on the ‘base’ GT model? I could see someone going the distance if they purchased the Sport version with a turbo.

It’s not that simple just to slap in a remapped tune and hope for the best. If anyone goes the distance with a tune, first I would replace the restrictive OEM intercooler, then change the plugs, adding dual catch cans, and finally using 5W40 oil. If anyone goes that far, yeah...I’m sure they have a CAI at the point beforehand.

I have the Sport model Elantra 2018 (as several here are aware). One for the coolest mods was adding the cold side intercooler pipe which allowed me to add my HKS BOV. I love it when my car makes that chirp sound from the BOV. Another awesome aftermarket mod was the lower engine mount. Man, the car responds much better after adding it.

Hey, FS, how's it going?
 

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Couple extra seconds less in the quarter mile or just more noise, what about running it on a dynamometer? What about improved fuel economy, not easy on the road, just too many variables.


Still have an old AF ratio meter, cruise was set at 14.7, power at 12:1, done by resizing the jets and the tapered rods on a carburetor type car, set too lean, would toast your engine, too rich, carbon built up. With fuel injector cars, the O2 sensor does this for you.


Ignition timing is very critical, while a couple of degrees doesn't make any difference at idle, sure does at top speeds. Best way to adjust it was on level ground and use a tach for the maximum speed, and sure made a huge difference in the octane grade you were using.


Anti-knock sensors do this for you, and the lower octane fuel you use, the much shorter the combustion cycle. If you read the fine print on so-called tune kits, tell you only to use the highest octane fuel you can buy. Aftermarket folks can only play with two things, cat back exhaust at the output, air cleaner on the input, anything in between, and be fined as much as $40,000.00 per vehicle by the EPA.


Actually worse restriction is from the cat, while legal to sell bypass kits and advertise them can get a $40,000.00 fine if caught installing them, but only on public highways and streets, okay for offroad use.



Air cleaner people says if you install theirs with engine warranty problems, they have prove that cleaner caused your problem, but kind of fail to say, you have to prove it did not. Would have to hire automotive experts and attorneys to fight this in court.


Mods were our favorite pass time, but in 1972, Nixon, new EPA, this all changed.
 

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HaHa —> what’s the point on doing all that on the ‘base’ GT model? I could see someone going the distance if they purchased the Sport version with a turbo.

It’s not that simple just to slap in a remapped tune and hope for the best. If anyone goes the distance with a tune, first I would replace the restrictive OEM intercooler, then change the plugs, adding dual catch cans, and finally using 5W40 oil. If anyone goes that far, yeah...I’m sure they have a CAI at the point beforehand.

I have the Sport model Elantra 2018 (as several here are aware). One for the coolest mods was adding the cold side intercooler pipe which allowed me to add my HKS BOV. I love it when my car makes that chirp sound from the BOV. Another awesome aftermarket mod was the lower engine mount. Man, the car responds much better after adding it.
My point exactly, he bought a base GT, there's not much you can do/that's worth doing.

Why anyone buys an elantra and attempts to boost its performance is beyond me. If you wanted a car with performance, you should have purchased something like a 370Z or WRX.
 
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