@charlescrown
Do you happen to know the difference between the roller cam and "non-hydraulic" cam sprocket? The gear timing set I got says its for the "non factory roller cam". I don't know if they mean if it has journal bearing or needle bearing; or the lifters? I know the difference on the block between roller and flat tappet and I have never known a difference with the timing set. There is a retainer plate over the cam for the hydraulics, but that does not effect the sprocket last I checked. Even comparing roller and non roller sprockets through pictures online shows ZERO difference.
Edit:
Only info found online is that the ONLY difference is a .030" shim is required on crank if you bought the wrong one. Apparently the block cast is just slightly different or something so that much more crank is exposed on a roller motor....
My new work yard is just around the corner from the shop basically. I went and tried it today. The difference is a major spacing change in the cam bolts.
Disappointing.
From my thinking I believe it has something to with the actual forces applied to the sprocket and cam. A roller has much less resistance but the flat tappet cams have that very aggressive initial rotational resistance depending on the cam grind. Im guessing the bolts being larger, dowel being literally double or triple the size (almost the size of the bolts) and the spacing being enlarged in radius assisted in making it easier to rotate and stronger.
Had no idea of these things, and it's hard to find online which means its not a common thing or common knowledge.
Good news is I already have a bite on the wrong gear drive set on that there Facebook Marketplace.
Yea when you look at the cams it's very misleading with forces on a flat tappet and a roller. I see no need to change the dowel size because all it does is line it up. There's no load on the dowel. Again there must be engineering reasons for the changes. Did that engine ever come from the factory with a roller cam? The Australian built 304 did and there was suttle differences in the block to accommodate the higher lift.
Comp cams states "Beginning in 1987 small block V8 engines were equipped with hydraulic roller cams. There are differences in the block to accommodate a cam retention thrust plate and antirotation mechanism for the lifters. These blocks are identifiable by bolt holes for a cam retention plate behind the upper timing sprocket, as well as bosses and tapped holes in the lifter valley.
The camshafts on these engines have a step nose and smaller bolt pattern on the front of the cam. An earlier model camshaft may be used in these blocks by using the appropriate timing chain set and adding a thrust button when using a roller cam."
Finally found the answer :O
Yes it is a factory roller motor. Its the motor just before the LM and LQ's etc "LS" motors started coming out in all the SUV's and trucks.
Bad news and good news!
I was in a very bad accident recently; however I am recovering quickly. I was not driving but most of the damage was done to my side exactly where I was sitting :O
Also, No reply on the dowel pin problem on cams.
The good news is,
-I sold the incorrect gear drive system and the new one has arrived.
-I finally got the ARP head studs that I needed.
-I gave up on the metal supplier and got angry enough about it that I went all the way over a few cities and found 18 feet of DOM. Now I will have plenty to do the links. Due to clearance issues I will have to integrate the new link points in the frame rails which is no issue. It will likely be stronger after the full welds instead of the spot welds from factory. This also means no more need to bend links. However I will still need that for the roll cage and some additional bracing.
I got my hand in the photo LOL
Big links are in on the bottom, the factory unibody required about 1mm of "adjustment" with a hammer and a blunt end rod just in one spot so the bolt could make it through.
I centered the axle and measured for a 5th link as I made my own mounting point now on the axle, similar to the upper link locations.
Additionally, I found out who designed the DW86 rear window:
I am in contact with the gentleman over there and am going to have him make me one.
He has in stock 3 of the double NACA vents but can produce more. I will be using 4 in the rear window and 1 in each quarter window just like the DW86.
I have on order a full aluminum radiator, -24an fittings for 1.5" braided radiator hose (Only can find Earls selling the hose at $600usd/20ft; as I need to run the length of the vehicle). Radiator has 2900cfm of fans and sealed aluminum shroud. This thing is with no doubt, going to move some serious air when you are standing beside it.
Great to see your back up and about from that accident.So many get killed with side impact with that lovely B pillar. Nice progress with the diff mountings. The original mount is now the weakest link in the whole assembly. That's one huge diff assembly under there. Where still in lockdown and can't go anywhere. Only allowed to go out within 5kms and to exercise for 1hr maximum per day plus nighttime curfew from 9pm till 5 am or we can get a $5000 fine. Take care and keep the posts coming.
Thanks Charles, luckily I was in a large SUV otherwise I would have been flattened by the dump truck.
And wow that is wild, we are getting Covid passports here. No longer allowed to do any activities unless you prove you are vaccinated and have to show it with government ID.
Progress:
Got the correct gear drive system. This is supposed to be the quiet helical cut version, but the gears appear no different; maybe a 1* angle to the teeth. They say it will interfere with the knock sensor but others have no issue. Also how did this engine have a knock sensor if the water pump was driven by gears?
Head studs:
Getting MLS gaskets
Changing over to light valve springs to check the required push rod length with new lifters:
Lightly installed onto engine with old gasket pressed between. Will be getting the same thickness gasket in MLS to maintain the rocker arm geometry as much as possible:
Cartainly getting there. They don't look anything like a helical gear to me. Anyway helical gears walk and need thrust buttons or bearings to take the load. I have seen a flat tappet cam rub thru the timing cover because the load on the oil pump pushed the can forward. What is the small gear above the can gear? Were still in lockdown but the government had a big announcement to make for all out efforts to get vaccinated we can now spend an extra hour outside and sit in a park. Yes we can finally sit down. You must be fully vaccinated though. At the moment we can be within 5kms from home and only for doctors visits, shopping (only one person from the household) and exercising (two max from the same household) and for 1 hour a day. I still don't know anyone that's had Covid. Anyway keep up the great work. This car is going to be a real arse hauler.
I have to make the timing cover have a protrusion to hold the gears with 0.05" Clearance on block and timing cover side, but thats required on the "straight" ones as well.
Small gear above the cam gear is the OEM waterpump drive off the cam. That will be removed and a plug pushed into the cover to seal the hole. I could just leave it free hanging and that would plug the hole as well.
And wow, that sounds like the near future for here. I have met only one person that had been fully tested and confirmed to have had it. He said it was bad but the only "bad" part was no taste. Otherwise was just a flu.
Just a bit of work on the motor, still in some pain so I did the hosing for oil system a bit.
Got some Moroso 10micron oil screen filters to protect my drysump and engine. I ran out of fittings so I couldn't do the last connection to the other filter. Tried ordering more but they are out of stock at the moment.
I did find a chinese manufacturer that can make me any braided hose size I require. So I may be able to find a cheaper source for -24 line than Earls.
New Radiator is here: Was dropped off with someone that has access to a tig welder capable of aluminum. -24an bungs are being fitted.
Fans and shroud will be placed on the opposite side so fittings are on correct side. Makes everything easier for mounting the radiator and the ducting shroud for radiator.
The rear end is filling:
Got this dowel pin puller kit for the cam: It worked amazing. I thought it was just slipping off the dowel but the dowel was coming out with that much ease!
Brand new dowel pin installed at correct length:
Going to have to do some modifications to the timing cover to fit the gear timing system. It nearly fits but ive ground as much material as I can off the gear set and must remove from the cover. The cover is too thin to take the required material away so i am thinking of using a threaded hole and an oil plug and set that at the correct distance.
Lots of work, it seems its never ending. But it will be well worth it.
WOW that's a serious radiator but I suppose you will need it. 1000hp needs to shed a lot of heat. Can't say I've seen that dowel puller set. Always struggled with vice grips. You haven't told me what that extra gear is above the camshaft
WOW that's a serious radiator but I suppose you will need it. 1000hp needs to shed a lot of heat. Can't say I've seen that dowel puller set. Always struggled with vice grips. You haven't told me what that extra gear is above the camshaft
Upper gear is old waterpump drive. It is driven off the camshaft. No longer used. In place to keep oil from leaking through valve cover and to seal the engine for drysump vacuum.
If anyone is interested in some severe pinion angle changes :O
No panhard and the body wants to walk away! :OOO
This is obviously just temporary.
I shortened a factory link and just bolted it to the side of the bracket. This way i can get the car on wheels and spin it around to pull the engine, and to prep for the attaching of rotisserie brackets so I can start on the chassis modifications!
This final photo is the car supported fully by the ford 9"! Was very exciting to actually have the car bounce on springs on the new axle. Heim joints are ordered for the panhard as I know what I require now. Then I will be putting some basic rims and tires (donuts likely) to wheel it around.
No top arms? I wouldn't like that pinion angle change. 1 degree max. That side wobble reminds me of a story an engineer mate told me about an insurance claim because the panhard rod mount broke causing the car to roll over. They took one off and did their best but couldn't roll the car but boy was it sloppy to drive. Getting there.
No top arms? I wouldn't like that pinion angle change. 1 degree max. That side wobble reminds me of a story an engineer mate told me about an insurance claim because the panhard rod mount broke causing the car to roll over. They took one off and did their best but couldn't roll the car but boy was it sloppy to drive. Getting there.
That one top arm is just a stock one that has been shortened even further to a whopping 6.75" eye to eye
The pinion angle makes me cringe, just look at the springs looking like they want top pop off either side of the mount! LOL
This is just a completely temporary thing to allow me to put wheels on and roll the car out, spin it around and back it in. This away I can gain access to the engine and remove it so the chassis is light enough to mount on a rotisserie; at that point the unibody panelling is being seam welded, and the rear frame rails directly beside the factory mount will be removed slightly to allow the new length extension boxes to be welded in. At this point I will have equal distance for mounting on the chassis side. However the brackets on the axle are tilted forward slightly. So there is still going to be a difference in length between the links but it is going to be extremely minor and will not cause the pinion angles to be so severe.
Wow, yeah I have seen a few videos of cars with panhard bars that broke and its really funny to watch but wont cause the car to just roll over. It can for sure, cause the driver to lose control from the unexpected crabbing situation in a banked corner I would think. From fishtail corrections of course.
If I didnt have that rubber bushing joint on the top the car would just fall completely off the spring. Those heim joints have HUGE angle capabilities. 60+ degrees. Where as the poly bushings from factory have maybe a few degrees.
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