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AE86 Drift Project Build (Was a Sneak Peak)

9K views 117 replies 4 participants last post by  charlescrown 
#1 ·
Just thought I would share this...
The one photo with a turbo on it is the same type of turbo that will be used on the final build. Both turbos will have functioning VGT. The controller is working for the VGT's.
Lots of work to do
Currently waiting on dry sump parts and welder to return so he can do all my stainless work.
Car is in other shop and a little buried so no good photos of it yet.

Should be ready for next year drift events at the local track
 

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#4 ·
Yes sir a white lift back 1986 toyota corolla gts ae86. It was an SR5 that my brother converted to GTS back when we were kids. unfortunately all our engines have ring issues on #4 cylinder so the car just sat after that in a shed. I got this motor for an 86 firebird project, but at the time being 17. EFI was just too expensive for this motor. Now that I have a few dollars to spend on something, ive been going all out.
Main reason for dry sump was to make the motor clear the cross member / steering rack. 4age sump is at the front of motor not the back. But the performance gains and having great lubrication while throwing the car left and right is a huge bonus. I have read that with dry sumps most of the time people REUSE their main bearings from the lack of wear! Moving the steering rack causes bump steering issues so not having to do that is great.
The EGT's will all be going to a Holley 8 channel EGT Can bus module and then fed to a holley dominator ecu. Vehicle will have boost by speed, traction control, everything.

Diff will be one of those 4runner "G" rear ends. I have one already, mounts cut off just need to weld the ae86 mounts on and it will bolt under. Might be a little wide. But all things that can be changed. They are very strong diffs from Toyota. over an 8 inch gear I believe, and you can get clutched LSD's and spools for them
 
#5 ·
They use the Hilux diffs with a lot of modified cars that I have seen. They have limited slip and locker diffs centres available at reasonable cost. I have a Borg Warner 78 series I narrowed down and fitted the LSD centre in my Lancer and their good for a few hundred HP and being used in so many local cars also very cheap. I suppose drifting and burnout comps is what your car will be good for being very overpowered for any other form of racing. I have seen the Corolla's fitted with 350 Chev engines and used as a street registered drag cars but our laws changed a few years back limiting the engine size for the weight of the vehicle making a lot of radical cars unable for road use.
 
#6 ·
Yes the Hilux diesel axle is the same one under 90's 4runners with a stick shift and a v6 combo. I got mine from a 93. My fathers Hilux has the same axle, however his has some kind of locking capability, I cannot remember. In the 4runners they usually came open, very VERY rarely came with LSD. I think lockup came in the later years. Im not an expert on Toyota SUV's and this is just off the top of my head of stuff I read now a few years ago.

That's pretty cool, I really like borg warner drive line components. They do a really nice job. Do you mean you fitted a transfer case from a hilux to your lancer?

Yes it is a drift car, that will be capable of driving on the street. Here in Canada, at least the west coast. You can literally build a car from nothing, weld it all together yourself, throw in 2000hp. But as long as you got turn signals, lights, reflectors, and no sharp edges on the outside. You can register and drive it on the road full insurance everything. Engine swaps are allowable. You never have to state any of this to insurance either. You do not need to state modifications. The only modifications they care about are security and that just LOWERS the insurance costs. You can buy a civic and throw 600hp into and it costs the exact same to insure as a stock one.

My final horsepower figure which is after the car has been running and all the breaking parts and upgrading has been done, is 1000-1200 horsepower.
This current engine build that's going in, I would like to see 600hp, but I know with these turbos, the cam, heads, etc Ill probably be seeing 700-800 on gate pressure
I have weighed this motor with the accessories on and everything vs. stock 4age same scenario. This motor only weighs 150lbs more (300vs450 I believe it was)
Not sure how much weight all this stuff is going to add in the end, but I think the power will take care of it haha
I have been thinking of putting the oil tank and fuel cell at back, get as much weight back there
 
#7 ·
Do you mean you fitted a transfer case from a hilux to your lancer?
No Just a modified diff. My Lancer is 1976 rear wheel drive. They were sold in the US as a Plymouth Arrow. Like the Corolla nice and light but mine is only powered by a 4g63 turbo engine running a Delco engine management system which I chose because of it's capabilities and ease of tuning. Even as it is it's a very quick little car which can generate white knuckles for a passenger. We have very strict modification laws here and there's almost no chance of building your own car without a lot of testing, compliance, and cost. An individually constructed vehicle could cost up to $10,000 to get complied. If you do build one it must comply with all the latest design rules that a brand new car has to meet so most people pick older cars and modify them. Even that can be a daunting task.
 
#8 ·
Sorry for delay, been busy. Oh I saw one of those a week ago! It was super cool and I had no idea what it was. I thought it was a civic or a corolla but I knew both those cars fairly well and it was neither of them 😄
How did you fit the rear into your car? Was it like I mentioned just weld the brackets from OEM axle into correct spots on the hilux axle and bolt the links up? In my mind that should allow the axle to function just as the OEM one did, just be much stronger.
 
#9 ·
The first thing was to narrow the track so it was the same width as the original then I cut the spring mounts off the original and welded them to the donor housing. Brake hoses was the last mod needed. The wheel stud pattern was the same as the Lancer so there was nothing needed there. After a little driving I quickly found out that a LSD or locker was required. I patiently waited for a company to get the locker and in the end gave up waiting and went for a LSD unit. Surprising there was no changes needed for backlash and preload making it a bolt in conversion. The car pretty much goes nowhere but sits in the garage increasing in value so that I don't mind. Too many other projects on the go.
 
#10 ·
I need to narrow mine as well, but there is no one that I trust here to do something like that. Where would I get the axles resplined? im thinking shipping it across the border and getting it done at the dozens of places in the USA is the best option.
I want bolt pattern changed as well.

Yeah that's basically going to be this things life. Might go to one track day and get some professional photos done and then sit in the garage. Unless one of my family members dare drive it on the street haha
 
#11 ·
I was fortunate that I could do the housing myself and the axles were different lengths so I swappede the sort one to the long side and cut about 10mm off so that one fitted. The other I cut it to lenght and got a specialist to do the spline. I think your got way too much power for a track day. I have a Mitsubishi EVO4 that puts out at a guess 350hp and it's more than capable of giving big power V8's a run for their money. Keep the posts and pics coming as you progress.
 
#12 ·
By track day I mean a drift event. Power level should be okay for that.
350hp is a fun number for an evo 4. I had similar power level in my Caldina, but the motor popped from lack of tuning... So that is my next project
Yes sir, im getting impatient! There are many packages stuck at the border. But according to previous tracking details stuff should be arriving this week again. Will post pictures once I have verified my mandrel drive is going to work with the crank trigger kit hub.
 
#13 ·
Nothing much has changed but here is an update:

20201107_161042.jpg - Oil pan fitted and one hose made; waiting on fittings. Oil pan came, got a 2piece pan not a 1 piece rear pan. So I had to cut off the back and modify, its almost done I just need to weld on the new seal lip and bolt holes.

20201031_162657.jpg - Older photo than the top one, Working on the drive system for the oil pump. Pulley has arrived, can be seen in first photo. Hub and/or the balancer need some machine work to fit the mandrel drive kit to it securely.

20201031_143722 (1).jpg - Repping the moroso stickers :)

Currently waiting on parts, doing machine work to components to adapt from SBC to LT1 style components.
It is slowly getting there. Also if anyone just happens to know where to source a full set single line, pan mountable, oil squirters for the undersides of the pistons I would really appreciate the information!
 

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#14 ·
Finally got a valve cover bolted down
452647

It involved what some would call "fabrication" of some studs to pass the girdles
452648

Still lots of stuff to do. Tig welding action is coming soon. But covid restrictions have gotten extremely bad. So unfortunately shipping delays and unable to work on the motor is putting it to near a full stop. Will try my best to continue on to meet deadline
452649
 
#19 · (Edited)
I hope everyone had a Merry Christmas! The AE86 Project goes on! The custom work has begun. I am no expert by any means. I am completely self taught from tips over text from a real TIG welder and 2 to 3 videos on youtube. I Have work to do on torch control but get better everyday. I have never practiced on bungs or thicker to thinner metals so these pictures are the first. This is my 5th time welding with TIG and maybe the 10th time welding ever. In hours we are looking at 20 hours max total weld time. I like that on the headers you can actually compare my welds directly to the manufacturers welds.
(The new uppipe vands for turbos are due to wanting 3" collectors not 2.5". So they will be modified to that size now.)

 
#20 ·
Welding looks great. I bought a TIG about 10 years ago and aluminum is still my big challenge but yes I can do it with a bit of swearing and frustration.
Whilst I know your using temp gauges to tune I wonder how you accommodate for individual cylinders? I use a wideband which is the combined gases and my ECU that I use (Delco) can't identify individual cylinders and the tuning is broad band as well. Merry Christmas by the way.
 
#21 ·
Welding looks great. I bought a TIG about 10 years ago and aluminum is still my big challenge but yes I can do it with a bit of swearing and frustration.
Whilst I know your using temp gauges to tune I wonder how you accommodate for individual cylinders? I use a wideband which is the combined gases and my ECU that I use (Delco) can't identify individual cylinders and the tuning is broad band as well. Merry Christmas by the way.
Thankyou! You know funny thing is the hardest metal ive tried to weld so far is mild steel with R45 rod. It just doesn't want to happen and has a mind of its own but I can do it. I would have tried aluminum, however I have a DC only welder. I will invest in a better one eventually.
The engine is tuned with widebands, the EGT's help the ecu adjust ignition timing mostly to help the engine run more evenly, it also allows for safeties to reduce power/limp mode when it detects a cylinder not firing or a poorly running cylinder. Retarded ignition timing the burn occurs later and more heat will be pushed through the exhaust, earlier and it will be cooler. The o2's will be on the downpipes of the turbos, but that will wait until the engine is mounted in the car so I can fab the downpipes. The engine management system I will be using is a Holley Terminator X Max with the 8 Channel CAN bus EGT module.
Merry Christmas to you as well!
 
#22 · (Edited)
@charlescrown Not sure if you have ever had this happen before.
It seems that the place that charged for an argon fill gave me mig mix? 75/25 argon co2

I included photos of the oxidized welds, the damaged tungsten, damaged lens, and cup with molten spray in it.
Very upsetting, so much prep work to get the old vband cut off the collector the perfect amount that this one slipped on ready to weld. Then I blast a bead on it and it looks like that... I thought it was my tungsten so did a pass on the otherside and had same result. Im hoping I can just run over the welds with proper gas and remove the oxidized surface, maybe add some filler. But I am starting to loose my patience with this place. Few bottles back they didn't even fill it up! I came with 1/3 the tank full and asked for a top up, paid full price and had 1500psi in the tank when I got home. Now they mess up and give me a mix that destroyed my equipment and work pieces! WOW!

NOTE: Even when I was using it as a purging gas there was this sweet pear smell, and I would constantly get light headed. I read this was an interaction of the co2 and stainless causing a poisonous gas... I was ready to go chew someone out, but calmed down.
 

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#24 ·
UPDATE!
I was getting sad about how much money and time this was taking and went to sell the motor. Lots of interest and willingness to pay my STEAL price. Literally the machine shop work and dry sump setup alone cost more.

However, "Covid" has hit people too hard to spend the money on an engine. I have decided to continue strong, at least now with the car itself. Hopefully I can update the forum with the actual cars progress instead of just the engine.
I am currently having a ford 9 inch custom built in the USA and shipped to me. Found a guy that can do it all for an extremely good price with a torsen diff all rated for 1000hp

454617

This is what is coming. 3rd member is on hold because im not sure what trans im using yet or tire size. (This is not my diff mine will be different length)

454618

Since my race car building blues ended I have got a turbo mounted with a proper flange :D Wastegate and other turbo to come. Also other header is converted to 3 inch already.

Getting close to stuffing it all in the car. Need a trans and 3rd member. Then can atleast fit it in while waiting for EFI parts.

(Transmission I am looking at RPMTransmissions, because they have prices only slightly higher than new OEM transmissions and they are fully built. Also 6 speed ;) )
 
#30 ·
And once its running; It'll only cost just as much to run the **** thing 0.0

Custom CNC beefed brackets (for the links and spring perches) on the way for the rear end from Hungary... Been looking at a front crossmember from xcessive-manufacturing, but not sure on that yet.
3rd member on hold for now because I still dont know what rear gear i need but i have a VERY reasonable quote for a 1200hp rated 3rd member, But will probably order it in a week or so. lowest I can get is 3.0 gear so with a 6060 trans I can get 200mph at 5000rpm....
 
#31 ·
So your not making a full chassis. I hope it don't bend with that sort of power. Interesting that your getting the rear section from Hungary. Maybe the Corolla is not a big mod car in the US. They love the earlier rear wheel drive ones here with prices going through the roof as they get older. A friend of mine has one and it's a 1.6 turbo running 30lb boost gets 450hp at the wheels. He recently fitted Nitrous so I don't expect the engine to last very long.
 
#32 ·
No sir, going to be the stock unibody with structural reinforcing. (Roll cage and possibly semi space frame) I dont believe my manufacturing skills are adequate enough to take on that kind of project. I do have a rockbouncer project idea been bouncing around for awhile but the complete tube frame is the part that worries me.
Sorry the axle is custom made in cali to fit the ae86 (axle tubes cut to length and custom made axles shafts). Its a custom Ford 9 inch rated at 1000hp but people are running 1500+ through them without issue on a drag strip. Being that I will have much less traction I am not worried at all with it.
The brackets are reinforced axle mounting brackets (shocks, springs and links) from Hungary. So instead of chopping and reusing the old ones off the ae86 axle i can put all new and heavier duty.

I happen to have a few AE86 in the family. Otherwise this would not be my project car choice, as I do not have 10 or 20 thousand dollars laying around to burn for an absolute rust bucket that needs almost as much to make it good again. At that price point I could have already done out my ST215W which is the next project car (was 500hp before rings said bye bye)
The one I have (pictures might come next weekend), is absolutely mint condition. Its been sitting so its dusty and dirty. But ZERO rust on entire body. The suspension arms are really the only rusty pieces from sitting. Was a daily driven automatic SR5 Ae86 with a carby 4A in it. Was converted to a 4AGE GTS car id say 8 years ago or more, and then it sat since that day.

That is insane power from one of those tiny motors! Super awesome
Have you seen that video on youtube with the guy that running a supercharger AND a holset turbo on the 4age? He calls it the 4agzte. So crazy, I think hes at same power level but blew the transmission and converted to a supra one. Not sure what he has for rear end. I know its really easy to blow the axles shafts if you go over bumps while full throttle.

Also if you look up DW86 or Driftworks AE86. You will see something a little different but similar to what I am doing. They widened the entire body. I want the car to be completely factory (appearance) in almost every way, except be ridiculous and make people grin ear to ear.

TLDR:
Going to be a unibody with structural reinforcements and a rollcage.
Axle itself is made in California, USA. The mounting brackets are made in Hungary (stronger and do not have to cut and reuse of an old axle)
I happen to get an ae86 for little to nothing through family.




 
#33 ·
Wastegates pretty much done. Have to wait until motor is in car to continue on that stuff. Going to probably continue with the dry sump system (some pan work for the rear main seal, and some plumbing still to be done)
Axle should be here in 2 days! :D
No pictures of the car yet, didn't have time this weekend to get the car pulled out of the shed
455075
Motor vehicle Automotive design Machine Auto part Engineering
 

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#34 · (Edited)
1000hp Rear end arrived! Still need 3rd member and the brakes, and transmission for the driveline

The heavy duty brackets will be here next week Monday hopefully!
Not sure yet if I want to take on the crazy job of putting the brackets on as they have to be literally PERFECT. However, with tons and tons of patience and a lot of digital levels, I think I can do an adequate job. We will see if I just send it to a shop.
455125

455123
 
#36 ·
I was shooting for +- 0.1

Is it just a wobble at high speeds? I've had 2 cars with unexplainable wobbles at highspeeds. Rotated the tires and thing does any speed and very smooth. No idea how that works but it did. Maybe it might work for you.

I have a question for you since you are knowledgeable in the area. Am I able to angle the links inwards on the axle more? I have seen this on the internet as called a triangulated 4 link (AE86 is 5 but the 5th link is no issue for me)
I think I can make the stock location work, I just need to make one of the links attatch to the case brace unfortunately :(
If it doesnt line up perfectly on that bracket if I angle it in more how will that effect the suspension?
I have read that it will tighten the body roll. Which I think will be very good for a much heavier car because of all the parts im adding.
 
#37 ·
The problem my car has is it's leaf spring rear end so the angle changes under torque conditions. We had cars made here that had 4 link with big angles on the upper arms to prevent side movement but it really was a flop. the car handles like a real dog but there were also other issues. The best option is a watts link rather than a panhard rod which still creates a sideways push as it swings thru it's arc. I suppose it's all to do with what you use the car for.
 
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