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Discussion Starter #1
Greetings,

I am looking to trade in my Subaru Forester to get new Accent. I used to own an Accent years ago and I really liked it. I'm primarily looking at the Accent again because of the MPG and for all that you get for the price.

I've been chatting and lightly negotiating with the salesperson via email for the past couple weeks. I stopped by the lot last week to look at the car, and I really like it.

I've never bought a new car before, but have visited lots to purchase used cars. I really don't like dealing with salepeople, especially those that sell cars. I think I feel like this because everything seems to be so deceptive or manipulative. (I don't mean to offend any sales folks at there.)

Any tips or advice out there? I don't want to make any rookie mistakes that come back to bite me. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Check out Hassle-free car-buying experience from a nationwide network of certified dealers. - TrueCar

I wish I had known about it when I bought mine.
Is there something you're willing to share that happened that could help another guy out? Thank you!
 

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I would recommend making your purchase at the end of their sales week. You'll have better leverage for negotiations because they'll be trying to squeeze sales in to meet their quota. You might be able to get a lower price or get some add-ons for free.

Also I wouldn't recommend going for the extra warranties they try to push on you.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
This is the Accent I am looking at:

broncomotorshyundaiwest.com/VehicleDetails/new-2013-Hyundai-Accent-GLS-Nampa-ID/2116265213

(add a "www" to the beginning of that link.. I only registered a couple days ago and cannot post hyperlinks. thanks!)
 

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There isn't a lot of difference between buying new and buying used ...

True-Car is okay and a good guide, as is Edmunds True-Market Value, but ...

You also want to check Auto-Trader and Cars.com for local dealers. Often I've found the E-price to be $1000 less locally than the TrueCar or Edmunds prices.

Next - know what your trade is worth (it doesn't help to get $1500 off the sale price and then your trade-in is worth $1500 less), so you break even.

Know roughly what payments should be, what interest rates are, what you qualify for.

Watch out for paint sealant, undercoating, fabric sealant, etc - you can usually refuse to pay for these, but ...

Be careful on the extended warranty - if you want it and get a decent price, it's okay - but make sure it's a Hyundai warranty.

Be prepared to walk - If you give the impression "This car is exactly the color I want and all the options I want, and there isn't another one in 250 miles of me (I checked)", they don't have to give you a good deal. If you give the impression of "I'm interested in this car, but I don't have to trade, and there's a silver one at Dealer B that he might make me a better deal on", they do.

Sadly, if they say "We're losing money on you and I hope you don't come back", you're probably not doing too bad.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
End of the sales week, or end of the sales month? (And it depends on the dealer when those are and they don't usually tell you).
Judging from the cluster of automated emails (without any context from our prior conversations over the last couple weeks) I got from him Sunday evening and early morning (3am?), I am going to go with the end of the month.. ;)
 

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Looks like a good deal to me.

I ran a true-car report for you.

There aren't any dealers near you, but normally, they might say you can get the car for a "$16,200 guaranteed price", since he is offering the car at $15,995, that doesn't help.

Remember that is negotiable also.

Also, there weren't a lot of changes between 2013 and 2014 (other than the projector headlights), but he is offering $3400 off the 2013's and only $500 off the 2014's, b/c he still has 2013's to move. (My local dealer is offering $2500 off 2014's b/c that is all he has now), so you can likely get a better deal than he is posting on a 2014 (still probably about $1000 more than the car you are looking at, though).
 

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... Any tips or advice out there? I don't want to make any rookie mistakes that come back to bite me. Thanks!
Make the sales person earn their pay by locating the vehicle that YOU want, not what they may have sitting on the lot.

Do you drive a stick? If you want a manual transmission, don't let the sales person talk you into an auto just because that's all they have on the lot. A friend was talked into an automatic (Accent) that really wanted a manual. It didn't take long before they regret not getting the manual.
 

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1999 Subaru Forester Base What's it Worth?

Assuming you like that car, though, in some ways you are in pretty good shape.

The dealer has a fairly low price on the car.

If they offer you a fair trade-in, you are good to go. If they only offer you $500 for the trade-in, you can always back that out of the deal and sell it yourself -at this point, it's really not like you need $8K for your trade to make the deal workable.
 

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I typically try to go with the "internet sales manager" or a website that generally gives you a locked in price. This is NOT the best way to negotiate if that's what you're looking to do...and it sounds like not. For me, I don't like to walk into a dealership and be accosted by sales chimps that are hyped up on coffee and donuts and continually ask me,"What do I need to do to get you into this car today".

Having said that, I did the True Car thing with my Accent and I was pleased with the result. The site generally will give you ( based on comps ) what they consider an average sale price for what you're looking for in your area...along with what's consider a bargain and what's on the high side. As mentioned, this is not the method you want to use if you're trying to time the quota cycle and get an extra $200-$300 out of them. I printed off the price sheet and after speaking to the "internet sales manager" took the test drive and bought the car for that price minus trade-in. Obviously, you probably want to reject all the dealers offers for extended warranties, rust proofing, VIN etching, lo jack, hi jack, etc.

The reason I used this True Car method was time constraints and the general lack of availability of a 6 spd. manual SE in my area in any color. I drove 30 miles to get a manual SE in an acceptable color and a couple hours later I was heading home. At the time, this was apparently the only manual SE in a 75 mile radius. It sounds like you already have the car which makes it a bit easier and you don't have to search into WA, NV, or MT for one.
 

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Truecar is great in that you don't have to negotiate for 3 hours to get that price.

In this case, the sale ad on the website is lower than Truecar likely would be and there aren't other dealers, but it's a decent price.

So you can print this our (or better yet, print the blue car ad out), and say - you have this advertised for $15,800 - what's my best price on it - worst they could say is $15,995.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks for all the suggestions, everyone. I greatly appreciate it!

So, I'll likely aviod all the extra warranties, sealants, paint protectors, etc. If the price is where I want it, is there anything I should be asking for?
 

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I think it's like Tiger-Heli mentioned, it'll likely come down to what they offer you in trade and what's workable for you. I don't know what a 1999 Forester commands in your area but with the expectation that you're probably not gonna get a lot for it...it's probably easier to commit to what works for you rather than trying to actively negotiate the trade with them on a 15 year old vehicle. The dealer might give you ( for example ) $1000 when the private sale price would be $1500-$1700.
 

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Not sure what you mean ...

On the warranty - the dealer will likely offer $2500 for 10/100K bumper-to-bumper warranty. Not a good deal. I've heard of people getting it for $500 - probably not a bad deal, but there are deductibles, etc. (zero-deductible warranty costs more than $150 deductible). Unfortunately it's harder to shop Hyundai warranties than Ford, Honda, etc.)

Hyundai HPP Genuine Warranty @ OfficialHyundaiWarranty.com Hyundai Extended Warranty backed by Hyundai Motor

That gives you an idea of "discounted" warranties - you can see if that is worth it to you, and either get the dealer to match/beat it, buy from them after the purchase, or not worry about it.

If the price is where I want it, is there anything I should be asking for?
There are things like free oil changes, wheel locks, trunk protector mats, home link mirror, donut spare tire kit (also you could add a full-size spare yourself), carpet mats, window tint, rear spoilers, etc.

But you can't say "I'm okay with $16,000 for the car, but I'd like to get free oil changes or a trunk protector too!" (Even if you are happy with $16,000 - you have to say "I'd really like to get the car for $15,000 - if you can't do that, maybe I could go to $15,500 if you added a trunk protector and a few free oil changes." (And if the dealer thinks he can sell it to somebody else for $15,800 without that, and he might be able to, that won't work.

It's a difficult game at that point and I'm not good at it, but ...
 

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I think it's like Tiger-Heli mentioned, it'll likely come down to what they offer you in trade and what's workable for you. The dealer might give you ( for example ) $1000 when the private sale price would be $1500-$1700.
Agreed,

I don't know condition on the Forrester, but the link from Edmunds said in clean condition, it was worth $1700 trade-in and $2200 private party sale (based on 150K miles).

I would expect the dealer to maybe offer (or maybe come up to) $1,000 - at which point you have the "Well, since your are screwing me out of $700 on the trade in, would you throw in some free oil changes (doesn't really cost the dealer anything), and maybe a trunk protector."

So, I'll likely aviod all the ... sealants, paint protectors, etc.
You can't necessarily avoid these - a lot of dealers put them on the sticker and you have to just refuse to pay extra for them. I've heard of a dealer local to me having $1100 added on the sticker for "ADM" (Additional Dealer Markup). Ironically, they also had the best pricing if you knew how to negotiate.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Thanks, again, for all the help folks. I'll be sure to follow up tomorrow to let you know the damage. :)
 

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extended warranty??? - Kia Forum

Good info here.

The warranty CAN be a good idea - let's say it is $1000 for 10-years,100K miles zero-deductible. If you drive that long and will keep the car that long, and don't do your own work, you will probably pay that. It's not as great a deal on a Hyundai as it is on a Ford with 3/36, b/c the Hyundai warranty goes 5/60K and 10/100K powertrain anyway.

Also - I would recommend paying the extra $200 up front for $0 deductible warranty. If you have that, you can just take the car into the dealership and say "Fix it". I've got the full warranty - call me when it's ready. With a $100 deductible - that's $100 you spend every time the car goes in the shop, so if something minor breaks, you tend to make a list of problems so you can knock out 4 or 5 of them with one visit. Also - you have a lot of times that a part might be $25, but it will take you two hours to repair - do you save $75, or do you let the dealer fix it for $100?
 
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