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Discussion Starter #1
Working on an 06 Sonata LX. Self diagnostic test tells me no heat is due to a temperature control actuator. I've pulled up the repair at hmaservice but I am not sure about pulling off the lower trim panel on the passenger side, it seems like it is going to snap. Is it really as simple as pulling it off?
 

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For most part, door actuator can be replaced by only removing lower most under cover between bottom of glove box door and bulkhead,, 2 screw I think and some carefull pull to unseat a clip or 2 without breaking, and a piece of duct right there.. dont recall having to remove glove box. You'll need a good light though

No need to go any farther removing parts that I recall.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the reply sbr711.

I haven't removed the glove box, just the piece underneath per instructions to make it easier to access the left panel. The left panel is giving me fits: I can pry it somewhat but it is really resisting and refuses to budge. It is the piece nearest the passenger's left foot. I can peak behind it to where I need to work but I just can't get in there. Is it attached to the console or are blind screws or springs?
 

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You only need to remove the flat undercover that at bottom edge of glove box door to the firewall.. there is also a duct there at bottom corner of glove box that you may need to remove.. that is all..

Nothing about the forward portion of console need to removed..

The actuator is mounted to side of the HVAC box well above the floor line, you need good light and put head under dash to see it,, 3 screw hold it to HVAC box,, and a wire connector. Is this a manual, or auto system ?? Is it a dual temp system with no temp change at passenger side..
 

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Discussion Starter #5
This is an automatic with the dual temp, no temp change at passenger side.

Does the duct prevent the view of the actuator? I saw the blower housing and duct work but nothing with three screws & wire connector.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
From the hmaservice site, I understood I was to be working in the area I labeled C in this photo. Are we talking about the same area?

Sorry, for all the questions & confusion, I am new to working on cars. Thanks for your patience.
 

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I think I know the duct you're speaking of; I remember it was a bear to get the wires for the radio around it. It's so big I wouldn't be surprised if it covers up A LOT!

I've disassembled my interior, including the console, but it was to have the LEDs changed from pea soup green to blue. I know the trim piece you're having trouble with but I can't remember if it's attached to the console since I had no choice but to remove my center console first.

Since the glove box is so easy to remove (emptying it is the hardest part :grin: ) you could try removing it and looking in there with a good trouble light to see if you can find a part like the one you're replacing. I'm sorry my senior memory can't be of more help.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Pea soup green is the best description of the lights!

I had the glove box out a few days ago to change the cabin filter and I don't remember seeing anything...but my memory is bad as well so I will check again tomorrow. Its still empty so there's that in my favor!

Thanks!
 

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Yeah, the "C" panel has two screws under the "B" panel. You will need to lift up the console to get to them. I tried that route and still could not get to the top screw on the acutator, so I ended up dropping the dash (behind the glove box) to get to the darn thing. A bit of overkill, but it was interesting to see how the car is put together. sbr711 has skills, I could not get to it from just removing the flat undercover and/or the "C" panel. And it is awkward working from the floorboard up, too. After removing the dash it was much easier (but not easy) to get to. That air duct pipe comes out, too, it is in the way.
 

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One picture is worth 1,000 words ... NOW I remember! Yup, there are two screws that hold the C panel that are covered up by the B panel.

Stoic101, you removed your dash?!? ****, I'm impressed!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
God bless you guys with the quick answers! You have saved me & my C piece.

I did start to remove the console the other day but that turned into a mess. I cracked the decorative plate around the shifter because the repair manual didn't mention that the decorative piece has some kind of clip at the end closest to the driver. I guess I will go back to that and start over.

Can't thank you guys enough!
 

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Warranty only pays us for 24 minutes labor time on that actuator I believe..

This is where you going.. I have access to better pic, but this site does not accept .SVG images... so you have to take the pencil drawing instead

 

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How did you do this Self diagnostic test on the Temperature control actuator?
I think there may be a manual method to access DTC, but we can scan for DTC using GDS on the dealer level if applicable.

For most part, no temp change and knowing actuator is common fault part is easy enough to diag..
 

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How do you get the rear glove box trim surround out of the dash. I have the glove box out. Can see the actuator. Cannot get the short piece of floor vent out of the way. This is very tight for sure. If I could remove the plastic surround the duct piece and actuator would be very accessible. I have removed the four bolts at the bottom. There are two odd looking plastic pieces that appear to hold the top of the surround in place. They either pull out or forward and appear to be snap in pieces designed to hold the top corners of the glove box surround in place. I've wiggled all wires, tapped on the unit, can't figure out how to manually move the actuator arm, checked all the fuses.....not the relays. My glove box light does not appear to be working either but I have pulled wires off the actuator.

Looks straightforward....if I can get the plastic out of the way. M1911
 

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Well, too bad I can't post pictures. These threads are woefully short on pictures. Pictures are indeed worth a 1000 words and I took several to illustrate the part and problems.

Above is a picture of the glove box surround. The glove box and lower plastic cover have been removed from the dash. How do you get the remaining plastic surround out. This would give access to the temperature control actuator. The four bolts have been removed from the bottom. There is a screw that holds the trim on that is easily removed but how do you get the two plastic snap in (?) clamps off that apparently hold the surround in. These are at the top, front edge of the surround. The squarish part with the hole in it. I want to remove the surround so I can remove the short floor vent duct and then the actuator. Hwy61
 

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You can't post pictures? Many of us have done so. Let us know what you're having trouble with (as far as posting pictures is concerned); we can walk you thru the process.
 

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Oh I post all over the net. Several of my threads are still on the first page at NASIOC even after five years dealing with power steering repair, adding grease fittings to the clunking rear struts as the only solution for completely filling the strut chamber to eliminate clunking. There are two teflon seals in there that dry out because the yellow grease Subaru uses cannot be distributed to these guides/seals because there is no way to completely fill the stock chamber without a grease fitting. Many of my threads on the Walther P22 are stickies at RimfireCentral and WaltherForums where I'm an 1917-1911M and my P22 bible is all over the net including Wikipedia.....but, I have to be a member here 7 days I'm told.

I know how to post them, photoshop and take very good pictures that illustrate the issues. I cannot get the floor discharge duct out out. It hits the temp actuator and the left side of the glove box frame. Trim pieces give me more problems than pulling an engine. Sneaky little snap together parts that unless you know prezackly where they are and how they are removed leaves you only breaking them if you aren't very careful. The actuator is clearly visible.....there is just very little room for getting at the screws.. A short handled phillips head screwdriver won't even get on the screws. I've been using one of the screwdrivers that are bent 90* at each end but very tedius work and the duct is in the way even if you take the bottom screw out and try to wiggle it out of the way.

There are three or four sets of wires that snap into the device. These are easily removed and reinstalled but getting the actuator out......?????? That seems to be very difficult. Someone that can pull it is a better man than I and I've been working on cars all my life.

What I'm wondering is if there is a way to remove the under dash surround the is just behind and to the sides of the glove box when it is removed. That looks like it would allow clear access to the ductwork and the module. There are two little squarish parts at the upper, front edge of the trim that look like they snap in or something and prevent this part from being removed. There is one screw at the top retaining the wood mold trim and four screws at the bottom. That is all I see. There may be more but if so they are hidden. Thanks for your help. :) M1911
 

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OK, Mr. ACP :grin: ... I'm afraid I've never removed my dash. I hear you about the interior trim pieces being a PITA to find the li'l plastic slingshots -er- clips holding things together. Have you tried a 90-degree ratcheting screwdriver? I have one like this; it came in handy when I replaced the radio

Oooops, I'm Hwy61 on the car forum and M1911 at the gun forums...:eek::D Forgot where I was. Now how do I get that plastic out of the way. Winter will be rolling in any day now. Hwy61
 
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