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Well Glock asked me to make a write up on how to install the Rostra Cruise Control Unit, so I felt like being a good guy and did. I may have forgotten a few things, as I installed this kit a week or two after I bought my car so if there's any problems, let me know.

OK. First off, let's get by far the hardest part out of the way, the portion that took me roughly 3 hours to do, as I didn't know where to put this thing to make it look factoryesq, though now that I've done it I could do it in less than a half hour.

The Servo:

I mounted it on the LF strut tower with the bracket included, as there was a nice stud Hyundai left us. Cut, bent and painted the bracket to make it look as close to a factory piece as possible. You can see in the picture how I routed the servo cable behind the engine bay.


The Cable:

After that I routed my cable around the motor to the TB. You must cut threads into the cable (the plastic shielding), all that you have to do for this is use the nut included in the package (just a regular nut) and thread it on and spend about a half hour cutting a thousand threads into the cable. After you're done that, you turn on the cable bracket/clip, make sure you spin this on the right way, because if you don't, like I did, you have to spend another 10 minutes spinning it off. When you have that all done, Rostra was nice enough to include slotted piece of steel (just a piece of steel with holes drilled into it to make a bracket) so I took that, cut it so I only had two holes (one is a big square one for the cable clip), then made a 90 degree bend in it. There was a nice bolt on the intake that I just removed, placed the bracket underneath, and bolted it back down.


In this picture you can see the galvanized piece of steel that I made the 90 degree bend in, and where it's bolted to the intake, you can also see the copious amount of threads I cut (I cut extra so I wouldn't have to turn the nut back on, just in case) and the black plastic cable clip that you thread onto the cable afterwards.


Just another view so you can see how it is routed.

After that you need a way of attaching it to the TB, Rostra was nice enough to supply a bracket for that, that will work for our cars as well. To install the bracket just remove the nut from the throttle, and put the new one in place and tighten it back up. Then you need to cut a piece of the balled cable that Rostra supplied, I used 4, I don't remember the formula to figure out how many you need, as this was a long time ago. Essentially the balls prevent the cable from pulling too far, giving slack, and burning out the servo motor. Then just attach the proper style of cable end on the end of you ball cable, a loop style, and slide it onto your new throttle bracket with a washer and secure with a cotter pin (all included in kit).


And Another View:


There, we're all done by far the hardest, and longest part of this installation.

Switch Installation:

This part is easy. Remove the steering column cover, and mark where you would like to put the switch, being sure there is sufficient room behind your chosen location for the wiring to have room, then drill the hole (I forget the size of this hole, 1/2" or something like that). The put your switch in and route the wiring down the column, being sure to keep it away from any moving parts. I chose my location so I didn't accidentally bump it and break it. Also, be sure you have enough leg room so you don't knee it either.


Standards Only
Clutch Switch

Ok, since my car is a standard, I needed to have a way of disengaging it when I hit the clutch, so I ordered the kit with the clutch switch. This part was very simple thanks to Hyundai. Crawl under your dash, and you'll see a bolt (used as a stop) on a bracket in front of the clutch pedal. Drill that out ever so slightly, and slide your clutch switch in. Adjust the switch, using the nuts on the switch itself, until when you lift up on the pedal, the pedal is just barely touching the metal part of the switch (button fully depressed). Don't have the switch too far in to stop the pedal from coming up, as, that would be bad.


The Wiring:

First thing you need to do is cut a hole in the firewall to route the wiring through. I found a nice place right beside the main harness. I believe the hole I had to cut was 3/4" maybe 11/16". Anyways, when you're drilling this hole BE SURE to check where you're drilling. The brake booster, brake lines and slave cylinder are very close to that hole, just just make sure you're not drilling them. Then just seal it with the included sealer.


Ok, for the wiring from the Rostra harness now.

Black Wire:
Ground. I just mounted this to an existing grounding point on the strut tower near the servo.

Brown Wire:
This wire has a little flexible tip on it to install along with a fuse in the fuse box, just be sure the fuse you select is a power with key on only.


Red and Violet wires:
These are your brake power and cold wires. Just use the included connectors and clamp them onto your brake wires. I don't recall which was which for sure, but I believe green was power, red was cold. So in this case, Red would go to Green, Violet to Red. Just to be sure though, take a test light, puncture the wire where you plan on connecting the wires, if the test light lights up, that's your hot.


Standards Only
Clutch Switch Wiring:

I believe all that needs to be done for this, if I remember correctly, just cut your Violet wire, and put this BETWEEN (meaning BOTH wires are between the servo and brake switch) your servo and brake switch. So basically just run it in a series after the brake switch. So cut the violet, attach one wire to one end of the violet, and the other to the other end of the violet.

Gray Wire:

This is your VSS wire (Vehicle Speed Sensor). Since there was no diagram for this, I just went out of gut, what most cars use for their VSS wire, and just so happens it happened to work. Colour was Red/Orange and pin location 6. EVERY CAR IS NOT THE SAME. So be sure to check what colour your VSS wire is. I just connected it behind the Data Link Connector.


Now pop the wires from the cruise control switch into the connector supplied (looks like the common 4-pin computer power connector) and connect that to the one on the servo harness. Your cruise is now installed, on a stick car anyway.

As for Automatic cars, there is a Dark Blue Tach wire and an Light Green NSS wire (Neutral Safety Switch) and honestly I have no idea where you guys would decide to hook them up. So those two wires are up to you guys with Automatics.

Now, before you take this thing out for a ride, there are switches on the Servo that have to be set to your specific vehicle, they are under a rubber grommet, 12 of them. The positions I used for mine are as follows:

Gain (Sensitivity)
1 - On
2 - Off
Pulses Per Mile (Ours are 4000)
3 - On
4 - Off
5 - Off
6 - Off
Engine/SetUp Timer (How fast cable retracts: Low)
7 - On
8 - Off
9 - Off
VSS Source (On = Car)
10 - On
Transmission (Off = Manual, On = Automatic)
11 - Off
Control Switch (Open circuit or Closed: Mine is open)
12 - Off

Well I believe that should cover it. If I missed anything, or if somebody has a problem, feel free to ask.



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