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Discussion Starter #1
Hello to all,
Open question.:confused:
Anybody with the experiance of the Check engine light and the P2096 "running lean"? I have a Autoenginuity soft and I can not really see anything. I have cleaned the MAF and the light when away for 3 weeks, now is back. The error code come up after a re-start (?) and not a cold start (?).
Thanks a million in advance !
 

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Intake manifold gasket might cause lean condition.

Use starter spray etc and lightly spray wher intake manifold joins block ; see if it changes the idle.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks santa06, I will try that tomorrow. If that it is the case, it will be the second car with that problem. My jeep fail NOx due to a cracked gasket. Let you know.
 

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We have the PIA government emmision tests up here as well.

Although more pollution often causes extra fuel $ , so its not all bad.
 

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Hello again,
Well, i took the heat shield off from the exhaust manifold and inspected everything. Also, i put some air pressure on the tail pipe as to see if there was any leaks using soappy water. I was not able to find anything. I cleaned the MAF again, removed the battery cables and shorted them together to discharge all the caps' in teh electronics. The light when off. One thing that I notice is that after filling up with gas and 3 minutes later, the light came back on. My next step is to check de evaporative system. Anythoughs? thanks
 

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Hello Again, busy busy ! Yes, same code. The car runs fine? well , MPG's are lower than before and I also notice some lack of power. I think the lack of power is the computer using the default tables to run the car. Something even more interesting happened this week. I was driving along when the light of low fuel came on (the car needed gas-- no problem here) so I when to Costco and fill it up (Check engine light On). fill it up and the drove away. 3 minutes later , the light when off ! I have driven all week with the light off adn with better MPG's. I am 99.99% convinced that it has to do with the evaporative systems. there is valve that controls the fumes form the tank that perhaps is stays open or some sort of hose that is not completly plug in. ON emore thing, i drove the car inteh rain ( i do not do that since I drive the jeep when it rains in CA--the jeep is in pieces as I am replacing the exhaust manifold to pas smog $!!). And the last, Now that the light is off, i will try to smog the accent tomorrow. Which me luck !
 

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Update. Another tank full of gas and no more light ! but...... (there is always a but) going to work, after a traffic light, i got a rough idle and a blinking Check eng. light (blinking light = no good !) ... Running on 3 cylinders ! after i when back home and got my laptop (running autoingenuity soft) i was able to see P0303 missfire. After two hours of work and $100.00 for a new ignition coil it got fix. now I wonder if the P2026 code was a premonition to this "real" problem. I am learning a lot about Hyundais !
 

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Hello Again, Been out for a long time. Well, after changing the ignition coil, the problem when away for a long time but, at the start of 2015 winter, one day, the check engine light came back on with the same code !!!. so, given what I experienced before, I changed the 3 other ignition coils. Nope, it did not worked this time!!!.....I read somewhere that they may be just a leak on the flex pipe after the CAT. In any case, I have ordered the pipe and I will replace it. BTW, I have changed the O2 sensor after the CAT and not difference. A leak (meaning opening on the exhaust pipe) can explain that more air is getting in and the O2 sensor detects this and then the CPU tells the injectors to put more gas until the max is reach= no more gas= running lean. in two weeks I will install the new flex pipe. we will see.
 

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Update. Another tank full of gas and no more light ! but...... (there is always a but) going to work, after a traffic light, i got a rough idle and a blinking Check eng. light (blinking light = no good !) ... Running on 3 cylinders ! after i when back home and got my laptop (running autoingenuity soft) i was able to see P0303 missfire. After two hours of work and $100.00 for a new ignition coil it got fix. now I wonder if the P2026 code was a premonition to this "real" problem. I am learning a lot about Hyundais !
I am really into Hyundai repair and am thinking about purchasing autoenginuity. Did you buy the Hyundai specific add on and does this tool show most of the Hyundai pids? I know it supports bi directional control of items on this car. Your input is much appreciated.
 

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P2096 solved!

P2096. The SOLUTION IS HERE!!!...long explanation but it will help you.

First off, I was the original creator of this post with the member name Bajaxj4l but I was not able to reset my password so I end up creating a new account.....

Well, long, long,long story short: the P2096 lingered for years. This year (2016), I was not able to pass smog as the Check engine Light was on. I live in CA so as you know it is a major bureaucracy to deal with the DMV. I new that I will not pass Smog so I when I request a 2 month permit to the DMV; there I was told that I could not get the permit until they see a Official Report from the Smog Test station that the Check Engine Light Was on!!!.....$51 later I had to pay another $50 for the permit....

I decided to take the car to the dealer....they suggested (after I pay them $115 for diagnostics ) that I needed to Purchase $2600 of parts to “start to diagnose the problem...I that the car needed new wiper blades!”.....$2600 for the same parts that I have already replaced (MAF, O2, Spark plugs etc) {they wanted $100 just to replace the spark plugs !!!!!!}

Needless to say, they only thing that I learned is that the $10k equipment that they have does not give more info. than the $300 that I have (Autoingenuity).

I learned a lot about Fuel trims (youtube has a good one for this) and understood that I did not have a
vacuum leak or foully fuel pump. [I even replace the fuel injectors !]. It is said that a Long Fuel Trim of less that 5% is acceptable, my car was at 3.4% BUT the short fuel trim was also at 3%. 6.4 % total, so something was going on.

At the end, I work with a real mechanic [ if you live in San Diego, send me a note and I will tell who he is and where to find his shop] and we analyzed the data together etc. What is was found was that the 2 outer bolts/nuts for the exhaust manifold were loose (one ¼ of a turn and the other ¾ of a turn). THAT SOVED THE P2096 CODE!!! so, after all, the car has a small issue with air getting in before the CAT.

I new that the front and back O2 where following each other, so after fixing the P2096 we end up with the CAT efficiency issue, so I had to replace the CAT. Since I live in CA it was $845 !!!!!!

Well, now the car is like a new car. Why did I invest in this old car that much money (almost $3k) and time (almost 5 months)?... this car was the first car of the oldest son [who's now driving his own scion TC R7.0 TRD] and my middle kid is 15 so this is the car that he will use to learn to drive.
I hope that this helps people with the same problem. To recap, I replaced: Flex pipe, TPS, MAF, Fuel injectors, Purge solenoid, ignition coils, SMOKED the intake and exhaust, timing belt, cleaned the fuel pump & cleaned the ignition timing solenoid/valve.

Good luck!!
 

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OK, 4 years later.....no, i did not purchase the support to the Hyundai, however, the software gives you enough info that you can use to diagnose your car. I also use the autoxray 6000, that it actually cover MFG specific codes for the Huyndai including the transmission. Both tools had helping me a lot.
 
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