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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a '14 sonata non-CPE so only 5/60k warranty. My AC recently has began being warm until engine over 2000 RPM then it like a deep freeze. I know in AZ when it gets over 100º it puts a toll on these things, but I can start the car with windows down and 15-minutes later still have warm air coming out of the vents. as soon as I drive and keep above 2000 RPM for more than a minute, it is ice cold. Most of my commute is highway so this isn't an issue, but on the weekend I do a lot of around town driving and errands and it will stay warm all day.

From what I have read, this is a compressor issue and I am wondering if the compressor would be covered under the 5/60K warranty or not. I have a little over 57K on it now and am getting ready for the 60K service. From what I read, only the first 12-months the refrigerant charge is covered for a year when bought new, but I am not 100% i was looking at the correct documentation.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I have verified that the fan is coming on once the AC is set to max, even with engine below operating temp and when driving around town it stays on when coming to stops but AC will blow warmer air still. I have started using the paddle shifters to stay in 4th around town so it stays @ 2000 RPM and keeps it nice and cool, but this is not a long-term situation I want to have.
 

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I know that when you get cooling at low RPM's, and warm air at high RPM's (your reverse problem), that you have a defective internally controlled valve on the A/C compressor, perhaps your valve is still defective but showing different symptoms.

https://axleaddict.com/auto-repair/vdcadjustorconvert - for examples/explanations

I believe your compressor is still covered under warranty, but the refrigerant replacement likely is not. If you want to save as much money as possible, you could always have the dealer repair the compressor, then take it to anyplace but a dealer to recharge the system.

I always encourage people on the forum to first get their problem diagnosed by a trained technician, and have repairs performed by them too. Fixing A/C is also a troubleshooting science, and if a trained tech is going to take a "shotgun" approach to fixing the problem because they themselves don't know what the problem is, then take your car to someone else who can actually figure out the problem. Bad techs do exist, and you don't want to eff up your A/C anymore than it already is. (my same thought process applies to home AC techs too, I had to go through a few techs before I found the right person to service mine at home.)
 

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Evac and recharge. When evacuated completely, replace the filter/drier and maybe the expansion valve. They are cheap and easy enough to do. Drier is called a dehydrator.
If the refrigerant recharge/valve/drier didn't help, time for a compressor.
Test the thermistor. It tells the A/C if the evaporator is cold. If the thermistor reads too cold, you will sweat. You don't have a variable compressor without a controlling mechanism for it.

Sounds like the common failed compressor with no power. Wears out too quickly and loses compression, just like a tired air pump or car engine....too much freon blowby.

If under warranty, exercise the warranty ASAP. But, I have no faith in dealer techs troubleshooting. Maybe you'll get lucky and they'll toss everything in under warranty...shotgun approach!

https://www.hyundaioemparts.com/aut...ac-cat/evaporator-and-heater-components-scat/
https://www.hyundaioemparts.com/aut...hvac-cat/condenser-compressor-and-lines-scat/
 
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Been through that, replace the compressor.
You can always put gauges on the system to see psi with a/c off, then when running watch gauges, but if you have a charge @ 95/100 psi and 12 volts at the compressor, it's done for.
These VDC are a real PIA and quite a money maker for the service arena.
I purchased 2.0T used quite cheap and the a/c would take sometimes 2 to 3 miles to start then work perfectly, but at idle the vent temp rose and cabin warmer, the one day it was ice cold going to the store, but after no air all the way home @ 20 minutes.

In June, replaced the compressor with a used 2013 Sonata compressor with 24k miles and has worked flawlessly since. 92 degrees high humidity, 42 out of vents.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
New issue when trying to cool the car down. When in Park, and revving up to ~2000 RPM, I now get an engine vibration from ~2000-2500 RPM. I have < 58k miles, had campaign 162 checked in February and changed plugs @ 45K to the current OEM.
 

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I purchased 2.0T used quite cheap and the a/c would take sometimes 2 to 3 miles to start then work perfectly, but at idle the vent temp rose and cabin warmer, the one day it was ice cold going to the store, but after no air all the way home @ 20 minutes.

In June, replaced the compressor with a used 2013 Sonata compressor with 24k miles and has worked flawlessly since. 92 degrees high humidity, 42 out of vents.
Exactly the symptom on my 2011 2.0T currently....can take 2-3 miles for AC to kick in, then works. At idle after starting, rarely get cool air. Been like this for the past 1 year.
 

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Exactly the symptom on my 2011 2.0T currently....can take 2-3 miles for AC to kick in, then works. At idle after starting, rarely get cool air. Been like this for the past 1 year.

Another Jerseyite. You're certainly not alone as there are many with the same problem. Mine was like that for a while, then just went out one day when it was in the 90's, the next day it was fine after about 3 miles. Wife said until it's fixed that's the last time she's riding in the car after driving home with no A/C for 20 minutes, we'll use her Acura TL. We only put maybe 3,000 miles per year on the Acura, so fixed it the next day. Your situation sounds the same, so time for another compressor. I only paid $60 for the compressor, have the tank of refrigerant and vacuum pump, purchased new O rings, so not much outlay, just some time. I did need to add oil, but also had that on hand.



You can always purchase just the control valve for @ $50, but my compressor was making a slight whine when on, so for the money and less aggravation replaced the compressor rather than spending @ the same money on the valve.
Only chance I took was just hoping the used compressor was good. It's guaranteed, but who wants to do the job again.
 

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I live in Central Texas, so it's pretty hot, albeit not Arizona hot. Mine is definitely weaker when stopped, but it's not as pronounced as what you guys are describing. Last summer we had some weather that was Arizona hot, 105+ for several days in a row, and it was having a hard time keeping up. If I lived in AZ I'd probably be looking to take action also.

I think just evacuating and recharging the system is a good starting point before taking the step of replacing the compressor. If the OP hasn't done any work on the system at all yet, I think immediately going to compressor replacement is a bit much. Take it to a reputable AC shop if you don't have the tools and have whole system diagnosed.

I had a Kia Rondo with the Theta I 2.4 and recharging the system at around 90K definitely helped restore some lost cooling performance. Don't know if they also used this variable compressor in the Rondo but being that they're corporate cousins, it seems likely.
 

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I only paid $60 for the compressor, have the tank of refrigerant and vacuum pump, purchased new O rings, so not much outlay, just some time. I did need to add oil, but also had that on hand.
It's nice to be handy in that department! :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks for the info. I am going to call dealership today to see if it is a warrantied item. If not, I will see about purchasing compressor on my own and not paying dealership prices for the part and find a place to evacuate and then recharge after new compressor installed. It seems the symptoms I am seeing are the same as everyone else and the valve in the compressor is malfunctioning and I agree, easier to replace whole thing than just a valve and have something else fail later.
 

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I think just evacuating and recharging the system is a good starting point before taking the step of replacing the compressor. If the OP hasn't done any work on the system at all yet, I think immediately going to compressor replacement is a bit much. Take it to a reputable AC shop if you don't have the tools and have whole system diagnosed.

I had a Kia Rondo with the Theta I 2.4 and recharging the system at around 90K definitely helped restore some lost cooling performance. Don't know if they also used this variable compressor in the Rondo but being that they're corporate cousins, it seems likely.
If the system indicates 90/105 psi when off, when on @12 volts at compressor, fan comes on, idle reacts properly, no sense spending the money on a discharge/recharge, just replace the compressor.
As I said before, many with the VDC are having cooling problems, not just the Hyundai/Kia products.

Thanks for the info. I am going to call dealership today to see if it is a warrantied item. If not, I will see about purchasing compressor on my own and not paying dealership prices for the part and find a place to evacuate and then recharge after new compressor installed. It seems the symptoms I am seeing are the same as everyone else and the valve in the compressor is malfunctioning and I agree, easier to replace whole thing than just a valve and have something else fail later.
If you want to stick with a new compressor:
Rock Auto $216 up use 8694889115713113 in how did you hear about us and receive 5% discount on parts until 9/2/18

If you want a used compressor:
Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market
 

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Just scrolled through this post, I’m curious does the AC Drier help with the insane condensation build up I get on my Windows whenever I use the AC? I’ve been fitting this issue since my second year with this thing, every time I use the air my windows fog. An OP I had the same issue I did a evac an recharge an it’s been icy cold since.
 

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Just scrolled through this post, I’m curious does the AC Drier help with the insane condensation build up I get on my Windows whenever I use the AC? I’ve been fitting this issue since my second year with this thing, every time I use the air my windows fog. An OP I had the same issue I did a evac an recharge an it’s been icy cold since.
No the AC drier is a desiccant that takes water out of the refrigerant.

If you have condensation issues inside make sure the fresh air is on and not recic. Make sure the AC drain hose is dripping water when the AC is running.

Could be a antifreeze leak if the condensation leaves a film or has a sweet taste in the air.
 

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Just scrolled through this post, I’m curious does the AC Drier help with the insane condensation build up I get on my Windows whenever I use the AC? I’ve been fitting this issue since my second year with this thing, every time I use the air my windows fog. An OP I had the same issue I did a evac an recharge an it’s been icy cold since.
No the AC drier is a desiccant that takes water out of the refrigerant.

If you have condensation issues inside make sure the fresh air is on and not recic. Make sure the AC drain hose is dripping water when the AC is running.

Could be a antifreeze leak if the condensation leaves a film or has a sweet taste in the air.
Drain hose ok
No film or sweet sweet tasty taste
Clears up if I cycle to heat for a few seconds then comes back after 15-20 min.
Oh well thank you kind sir
 

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Drain hose ok
No film or sweet sweet tasty taste
Clears up if I cycle to heat for a few seconds then comes back after 15-20 min.
Oh well thank you kind sir
Clean your windshield, condensation forms on your windshield easier if it's not clean.

Is condensation forming on the inside or outside of your windshield?

does it only occur when it's raining, foggy, cold, etc.
 

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Drain hose ok
No film or sweet sweet tasty taste
Clears up if I cycle to heat for a few seconds then comes back after 15-20 min.
Oh well thank you kind sir
Clean your windshield, condensation forms on your windshield easier if it's not clean.

Is condensation forming on the inside or outside of your windshield?

does it only occur when it's raining, foggy, cold, etc.
OCD, window is cleaned inside out each week as part of my Saturday ritual lol. Doesn’t matter the condition outside it does it dry heat humid heat rain shine fog..no matter what it does it....never tried the AC when it’s cold though hah. pending the condition, when it’s outside of window it’s usually damp outside, when it’s inside fogging up it’s usually dry outside...I’ll test it out in a few months once the weather breaks but I always run max AC which keeps the recirculated on. So that’s probably all it is.
 
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