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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone,
I have some troubles with my Hyundai 1.5 CRDI 65kW of 2007, the problem is about ABS light. I suspect speed wheels sensors. My question is do you know if it is passive sensors or active sensors (Hall effect)? I only have two pins when I unplugs the sensor cable. Therefore I think these sensors are passive, isn't it? But when I try to test the resistance, on three differents sensors, I have an infinite resistance, it's not likely!? It's very difficult to plug my ohmeter with the pins because they are male plug, but when I put my multimetre to volts, I have some values, but when I put the wheel in motion, nothing more? Any Idea? I need your help!:crying2:
 

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The sensors are not like the old inductive type where you measured the resistance or spun the wheel looking for an AC output voltage. I have for gotten the name. There was some discussion on them in a post long back. To test them you need to apply 12 volts with a 75 ohm resistor in series with the negative. This is to protect the sensor from high voltage damage. You then place an oscilloscope (multimeter on DC volts should do) across the resistor and rotate the wheel looking for a square wave output switching from approx 0.5 volts to 1 volt. Autospark might have a simpler method so lets hope he reads this post.
Pic attached but blurry on the sensor side.
 

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Autospark might have a simpler method so lets hope he reads this post.
It's a bit of a PITA, but that's how I test active sensors too.

BTW, the resistor isn't actually added to protect the sensor. It's added to convert the current flowing in the sensor circuit into a voltage that can be displayed on the oscilloscope/voltmeter. Obviously, current flowing through the resistor creates a voltage drop across it and that's why you connect the scope/voltmeter there.

 

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Does you meter read frequency? There's a way to probe the circuit while it's connected and you can test these easily.
Would be nice to get the code.
 

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Yes.


Great, I love easy.
So how how do we go about probing the circuit then?
This was meant for the OP. I will oblige you.
I'm pretty sure you have a frequency meter or something a little better.
I think you probably have probes for piercing through the insulation of the wires also. I was going to take a couple picture of mine and found I need to charge the battery for my camera. I do not have a smart phone. I do not like a phone that is smarter than me...:laugh:
I used the camera on this laptop for these.

The 1st is a stout stubby piercing probe and the 2nd is a 14 inch piercing probe that is much thinner and great for grabbing wires in looms with many wires and not a lot of room for the stubby.

Here is where you can buy these.


Now to find the battery charger for my Nikon...fun..
 

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FWIW in the very early days we used to take sewing needles and push them into the wiring and probe that way. It works.
BTW always use a little dab of silicone or other stuff to seal where the wire was pierced.
 

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This was meant for the OP. I will oblige you.
Thanks. But I was actually hoping you could tell us what wires to probe rather than tell us what tool you'd use to do it?

Guilhem said:
What do you mean by "PITA"?
That's my polite way of saying it's a Pain In The Arse....Err, sorry....derrière


Guilhem said:
Are you sure it is active sensor?
Your resistance measurements certainly seem to suggest they are active sensors, and I'd be very surprised if they aren't on a 2007MY car. But you can't really tell just by looking at the Hyundai sensors because Hyundai passive and active sensors both look pretty much the same. They also both have two terminal connectors.

One way to be pretty sure you are working with active sensors is to simply disconnect one and measure the voltage across the two terminals of the harness connector. You'll get close to 12V if they're active sensors....assuming the wiring isn't damaged, of course.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Hahah ;) I have just check it out...no tension across the two terminals of the harness connector. I have also check fuses : ok. Perhaps I have to put needles into the terminals to have a better connection...because my multimetre's probs are really bad..I'll let you know... if you have any idea...
 

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I have just check it out...no tension across the two terminals of the harness connector.
Remember you'll need to have the ignition on, and don't just test one because that could be the one that's faulty and causing the warning light to come on.
 

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Yep I did it, I have only 53 mV on the two rear terminals of the harness connector, and 46 mV on the front right terminals of the harness connector (I can't access the front left)... it seems very low values isn't it?
 

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it seems very low values isn't it?
Yes, that is very low. And it's unlikely the wiring to all of the sensors would be damaged, which makes me wonder if the module is even powered up.

BTW, I did a quick check online and they are active sensors.
 

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Yes, that is very low. And it's unlikely the wiring to all of the sensors would be damaged, which makes me wonder if the module is even powered up.

BTW, I did a quick check online and they are active sensors.
Ok thanks a lot guy, where did you find the documentation about it? I search for a while and I have not found anything...please let me know. Furthermore, do you know where is the module?0:)
 

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I didn't find any documentation. I just went to an online parts store and looked up the sensor....
Big thanks to you! It helps me a lot! Therefore I suppose the proble might be on the "ABS module" ... Do you know where does it is placed? I suppose I have to measure the current on the input, and the current on the outpout in order to see if it is really the "module" that is down, isn't it?
 

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I think the ABS module is in the engine bay on the bulkhead, down below the brake fluid reservoir.
The engine bay is pretty busy on the CRDi models (I used to own one myself), so I think you'll need to remove the air filter housing to gain access to the module.

Before digging your way into the module though, are you sure your ABS fuses are OK? There are three ABS fuses in the engine bay fusebox.....
2006~2010 Hyundai Getz - Fuses & Relays
 

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Thanks a lot, I have already checked Fuses on the engine bay fusebox, but looking at your link, I saw there is abs fuse "ECU1" under the steering wheel wich I have not check... thanks, I will look at it (cross fingers)
 

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Don't forget to check that the fuses are actually being supplied with voltage. The best way to test fuses is to use a voltmeter to probe the two little metal tabs on top of each fuse and make sure you have 12V on both. If you have 12V on one tab and something different on the other, the fuse is blown. And don't forget to have the ignition on when testing.
 
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