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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,

My daughter's 2008 i10 first gen has had an ABS light fault which I thought that we'd fixed. It was coming on and off randomly before.

Brake system in very good order otherwise and it's just past it's MOT (light was off at time of test - phew!) so I'm not aware of any excessive play in wheel bearings etc.

Diagnostic reader at local garage indicated front off side ABS sensor fault so they've replaced that, and also the ABS ring on the CV joint whilst in there as they found a hairline crack in the ring itself.

System has behaved for several days with the normal 2 second diagnostic check at start up then clicking off (including local slow and fast motorway driving) but after driving slowly across a poorly surfaced carpark last night, the light came on again and has stayed on apparently during driving until today, when it went off on my daughter's commute to work, a fast motorway commute of about 20 mins duration.

The garage is more than happy to re-read the diagnostics and see if they can figure out what's up now, and also obtain a replacement new sensor if it's the new one that's faulty but I wondered if I was missing something obvious here?

The new sensor is a proper Hyundai part. I'm assuming that the ABS ring they've replaced in the CV joint area is the same part as the "tone ring" other forum members have mentioned so surely we've repaired the active parts in that area, or is there something else?

The reference to it playing up after bumping slowly across a poorly surfaced car park could imply loose wiring maybe?

Is the ABS system controlled by the same module as the SBS (airbag) system that is located in the center console under the handbrake lever? I'm not aware of a fault on it but I did replace it 2 years ago from a donor car for an SBS light fault - no problems with it since.

Does the ABS system monitor the brake light activation at all? I did replace the foot brake switch last year - again with no further problems.

Would greatly appreciate any remedy suggestions of basic things to check. The garage we use is very good but I have no time to do this myself at the moment and it seems that the only way to fix these kind of faults sometimes is to replace parts. Expensive!!

Many thanks
 

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I had my ABS sensor replaced earlier this year as it kept triggering the ABS pump so much even when going slow that it turned itself off completely and threw up the error.
The ABS sensor is only available from Hyundai. I thought as a consumable item that it would be available anywhere. I think I paid £110 or so for it.

Tone ring/exciter ring is the same thing I believe. Sometimes crud gets in it, or it gets rusty and can cause a light to pop up. But since yours is new, I wouldn't think this would be the issue.
I believe the SBS module is a completely different unit to the ABS system. I believe the ABS module is mounted on the ABS pump as there is a huge amount of wires coming off of it.

As for the fault, could be as simple as the plug isn't seated correctly. Let them run the diagnostic again to see what pops up. Would you report back here and let us know what the issue was? Thank you :)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Tx for the prompt and informative reply.

Yes, I'll certainly update for the benefit of other members.

My daughter doesn't live with me so I'm advising from afar until I next see her.
She's reported that yesterday the light was on during start of journey but then went off and has stayed off during subsequent trips.

Intermittent faults are the devil, but at least I've got the benefit of doing a diagnostics code read when I next see the car.

When you say "loose plug", I take it you consider it worth checking the electrical connections into the ABS module itself?

I'm presuming the garage would have commented if they weren't happy with the connection to the new sensor.

Hope to update soon....
 

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Interesting topic as this recently happened to our*/wife's* 2009 i10 (*delete as appropriate if it's giving trouble,lol)

I can't offer a solution but my experience may add to the sum of the knowledge.

I had to brake sharply about a month ago and this triggered an intermittent ABS fault light. As I don't have a code reader I checked the obvious things like damage to wiring; I even disconnected the offside front cable to see if I could generate voltage by spinning the wheel as the ABS had activated on one occasion & I thought that it felt like it was this wheel (I couldn't & sensor was rusted in so couldn't examine this without damaging it)

The garage diagnostic machine also pinpointed this wheel, however the mechanic advised that the driveshaft would be rusty and would need replacing in order to be able to fit a new ring (he also confirmed that the sensor would need replacing due to it being rusted in)

All straightforward enough but the curious thing is at that time (about two weeks ago) the offside front sensors for pre 2013 i10 were out of stock everywhere?? (apart from full price ones from Hyundai!) I eventually tracked a pattern spare on ebay and supplied this to the garage and they sourced a driveshaft end and ring.

The cost was around £200, and the driveshaft end accounted for half of this (the mechanic couldn't warrant the job unless I agreed to have this replaced)

Finally and frustratingly, as soon as I had booked the car in to have the work done and ordered the sensor the light went off...........
 

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The ABS will log a code if something is not correct at a wheel and that can be a sensor, wiring or even a smaller tyre. I suggest a rescan and get them to look at the live data from the offending wheel.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks both for the reply.

Sounds like I got away with it lightly (so far!) as they were able to fit the new ring without changing the drive shaft end.

Steptoe. Presumably the only reason your garage wasn't able to warranty the work without replacing the drive shaft end was because they would have had to damage it due to the rust to change the ring? Or should I be thinking about doing that as well if problems down there continue and wiring etc is OK?

Ironically, whilst I know that both Charlescrown, Trident Barclay and my garage are bang on advising to do a rescan to see what is going on definitively - my daughter reports that it is now behaving following that one episode.:)

As she lives a fair way away from me I'm tempted to leave well alone for now - I'm happy that I'm keeping my garage up to speed so that further works will be dealt with sympathetically...

I AM a man of completion though and I don't like unfinished business. If she's passing the garage I'll ask her to pop in so they can do a diagnostics....
 

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Thanks both for the reply.



Steptoe. Presumably the only reason your garage wasn't able to warranty the work without replacing the drive shaft end was because they would have had to damage it due to the rust to change the ring? Or should I be thinking about doing that as well if problems down there continue and wiring etc is OK?
The explanation given was that the driveshaft end on which the ring is fitted will be rusty (and also the rust might have split the ring?) and so if the rust was removed the drive shaft diameter will be too undersize for a new ring to fit securely. I didn't ask to see the replaced shaft so don't know if this was so but the hub was/is very rusty so it did sound likely.
 

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What's the part number you used on eBay to get a replacement? I'll have a peek to see if I can grab a couple - just in case!
I just searched for 'i10 ABS sensor' then filtered the results for front right sensor and the correct year; however I believe the official part number is 95670-0X100
 

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Discussion Starter #10
My sensor for the front right sensor was purchased from Hyundai and I can confirm the product code was Y956700X100.

I've had a chat to my garage and they have confirmed that they cleaned up the drive shaft end as best they could prior to fitting the new ABS ring in the interests of saving my daughter some dosh, but they weren't "totally happy" with it.

Time will tell now in my case, but may be useful info for any other forum members looking at tackling the same job scenario.

Don't know if it's possible for a recently interfered with drive shaft to "settle down" after a period of driving but for now. My light is off!

Thanks all.
As always, really appreciative of all the shared experience and knowledge on here.
 
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