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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Like the title states I have a pretty constant abs light is my first problem. Before then however, I have a problem restarting my car after its been running for around 30 minutes and I stop for gas. They may be 2 totally different problems but I wouid definitely would like to get the latter of the 2 fixed first. I live in Texas so there has been a few triple digits in the weather the past couple of weeks but I believe the problem started to happen before the weather was this bad, sort of a progression. My first thought is clogged injectors, this is my A to B car but my most economical way of traveling to my 35 minute drive to and from work. I do usually get the cheap gas at walmart, so thats where I would like to start. Any objections? TIA
 

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Do you have a check engine light on?
Can you scan the computer?
Are there any diagnostic trouble codes?

Thinking if engine runs okay for 30 minutes then why would the injectors be clogged to the point of no start?
But, if it is then would a bottle of injector cleaner work to clear that up??

Stop for gas? Could it be the purge valve stuck open (looking for CEL)?
This would mean too much fuel when cranking, making for difficult starting
Don't remember if this car has a clear flood mode??
Gas pedal depressed all the way and crank engine for three seconds
Then try to start (normally)

Have heard of engine warming up and the crankshaft sensor fails after it gets hot
Cools down and it works again

Have you done any tests while the engine won't start??
Like check for spark, check for injector pulse?
Turn key to on position and listen for fuel pump priming the fuel rail (runs for about two seconds)
 

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Non start after refueling is a fairly common topic on the forum. Have you tried using the search facility to find other post related posts?
I think avisitor is probably right about it being something to do with the purge valve though. That seems to ring a bell.

You'll need to have the ABS module scanned to get a clue about why the ABS light is on. You'll probably need to visit a garage to have that done unless you invest in a proper scan tool. A cheap generic OBD tool isn't able to link with the ABS.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Do you have a check engine light on?
Can you scan the computer?
Are there any diagnostic trouble codes?

Thinking if engine runs okay for 30 minutes then why would the injectors be clogged to the point of no start?
But, if it is then would a bottle of injector cleaner work to clear that up??

Stop for gas? Could it be the purge valve stuck open (looking for CEL)?
This would mean too much fuel when cranking, making for difficult starting
Don't remember if this car has a clear flood mode??
Gas pedal depressed all the way and crank engine for three seconds
Then try to start (normally)

Have heard of engine warming up and the crankshaft sensor fails after it gets hot
Cools down and it works again

Have you done any tests while the engine won't start??
Like check for spark, check for injector pulse?
Turn key to on position and listen for fuel pump priming the fuel rail (runs for about two seconds)
Will try these tests. I did have a light intermittently going off and on, but that was for an 02 sensor, which are prone to happening in these vehicles. I will try the clear flood mode that you said, will also post the results from the scan.
 

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Does the engine start normally after stopping for a minute or two without fueling? Hot engines and hard restarts can be a temperature sensor problem. If only after refueling then it's more likely an evap issue.
The ABS may be a simple fix. Wheel speed sensors are common problems. Sometimes it's just the tone rings needing to be cleaned up.
Get it scanned and write down all codes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Just scanned the codes on car and they were the same as before p0420 . I did the clear flood mode test, and I think it worked. I will be sure tomorrow after I get to work. As far as the Abs light I am going to get that scanned by the dealer.
 

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P0420 is catalytic convert operating below efficient threshold

Not even sure if that car has a clear flood mode
But, if it works then good for you

I hope you get the car back to no problems
Good luck
 

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Just scanned the codes on car and they were the same as before p0420 . I did the clear flood mode test, and I think it worked. I will be sure tomorrow after I get to work. As far as the Abs light I am going to get that scanned by the dealer.
If it is hard starting when engine is hot and the clear flood (wot) works your ECT sensor is bad. Can you smell fuel when this happens?
They should be able to read the ABS module. NO?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
If it is hard starting when engine is hot and the clear flood (wot) works your ECT sensor is bad. Can you smell fuel when this happens?
They should be able to read the ABS module. NO?
Well, i took it to Autozone. Not sure they can do that there. I will check for that smell when I get to work tomorrow.

Avisitor Thank you.
 

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Well, i took it to Autozone. Not sure they can do that there. I will check for that smell when I get to work tomorrow.

Avisitor Thank you.
I'm not Avisitor, but you are welcome. Even if you don't smell it the ECT is bad. When they get hot they fail and will read cold which over fuels. A scanner will show the ECT at temperature well under the actual. Very common and it's about the only thing that will cause that problem.
Autozone should be able to read the ABS module for codes. They sell a lot of wheel speed sensors from reading those codes.
 

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I'm not Avisitor, but you are welcome. Even if you don't smell it the ECT is bad. When they get hot they fail and will read cold which over fuels. A scanner will show the ECT at temperature well under the actual. Very common and it's about the only thing that will cause that problem.
Autozone should be able to read the ABS module for codes. They sell a lot of wheel speed sensors from reading those codes.
grcauto Thank you ... >:D
For clearing that up.

Do you know where the Engine Coolant Temperature sensor is located?
And how difficult is it to remove and replace?
 

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grcauto Thank you ... >:D
For clearing that up.

Do you know where the Engine Coolant Temperature sensor is located?
And how difficult is it to remove and replace?
Most are located in the cylinder head and screw into the water jacket. Some may be located near the thermostat as well as the switch for the idiot light. The light will be a single wire and the CTS is multiple.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I'm not Avisitor, but you are welcome. Even if you don't smell it the ECT is bad. When they get hot they fail and will read cold which over fuels. A scanner will show the ECT at temperature well under the actual. Very common and it's about the only thing that will cause that problem.
Autozone should be able to read the ABS module for codes. They sell a lot of wheel speed sensors from reading those codes.

I was actually thanking Avisitor for his comments.

So far I have had no issues restarting the car after driving to work in the morning and more importantly This afternoon around 3 p.m. where it was about 100 degrees outside. I need to get the abs light checked and I will head back to Autozone tomorrow. So a scanner WILL or WILLNOT show on a scanner? What type of reading will it show? Thanks Again.
 

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I was actually thanking Avisitor for his comments.

So far I have had no issues restarting the car after driving to work in the morning and more importantly This afternoon around 3 p.m. where it was about 100 degrees outside. I need to get the abs light checked and I will head back to Autozone tomorrow. So a scanner WILL or WILLNOT show on a scanner? What type of reading will it show? Thanks Again.
A common misunderstanding is the terminology. What AZ has is a CODE READER. They are great for retrieving codes from modules but they do not display PID (pinout data) information from the different modules. A SCANNER can display live data from the modules as well as perform tests such as turn on switches, relays etc. A good scanner can be loaded with factory software (not cheap) and can also update the different modules. When you need a flash (programming) it can be done through a scanner with the proper software installed.
HTH
 

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I was actually thanking Avisitor for his comments.

So far I have had no issues restarting the car after driving to work in the morning and more importantly This afternoon around 3 p.m. where it was about 100 degrees outside.


Did you shut if off and try restarting after a few minutes?


I need to get the abs light checked and I will head back to Autozone tomorrow. So a scanner WILL or WILLNOT show on a scanner? What type of reading will it show? Thanks Again.
I await.
 

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The guy in that video is pitiful. The only thing of value is it does show you where the sensor is.
No need to drain the radiator and they way he removed the sensor is pitiful.

I would stick to the guys who have shops and make videos of their work. Most of them are pretty well done with proper tools and techniques.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I am in the process of buying the ABS bypass www.airbag360.com. However I am still having issues starting car. I scanned the car and it still states p0420. Would this have anything to do with the code?
 
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