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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
A/C doesn't cool well lately. I've had the car for a little over 1 year.

A/C cools intermittently. I'm in sales and am on the move 9-10 times per day. A/C only works correctly half the time. It seems to be non-working mostly when I stop at red lights. Sometimes it does not work even when in motion. Another issue is that the car seems to run hard when the A/C is on (whether I'm stopped or in motion). I can turn the A/C off and the car seems smooth.

Another recent issue was engine misfires. It took me a few days to figure out the spark plug needed to be replaced/get the new spark plug in and replace it. I had the Lap 3 chip installed at that time. When misfires began, I unplugged the chip. After I had installed the new plug, I also hooked the chip up again. It ran fine that night. The next morning I tried to start the car and it turned off after about 20 seconds. I was baffled. Turned it back on to the worst engine start ever. Felt like I was in an earthquake. I immediately had a check engine light (P0237), so I turned it off and unhooked the Lap 3. Gave it a few minutes and turned it back on with a (mostly) smooth start. I haven't hooked up the chip ever since.

Since then, the performance has been sub-par, even for non-Lap 3 standards. It runs hard, sounds bad and isn't cool. Also I have no clue how to tell if the turbo is spooling up or not during acceleration. I'm a noob with turbos. Every once in a while (once or twice per day), I hear a sound of rushing air when I ask the car for some extra power.

Any ideas on this one (hopefully just one issue)?
 

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2018 Sonata Limited 2.0T (Mfg:11/09/17)
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Put a vacuum gauge on it. Might have knocked a hose loose.
 

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The first thing I thought about running hard with the AC engaged is motor/trans mounts. For your intermittent AC issue, I would make sure that clutch magnet is holding onto the clutch the entire time. Your CEL code is for a boost sensor. I would start there. Rough starts on DI, I immediately think carbon buildup. If you start throwing misfires on multiple cylinders, I would start there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The first thing I thought about running hard with the AC engaged is motor/trans mounts. For your intermittent AC issue, I would make sure that clutch magnet is holding onto the clutch the entire time. Your CEL code is for a boost sensor. I would start there. Rough starts on DI, I immediately think carbon buildup. If you start throwing misfires on multiple cylinders, I would start there.
Right on cue, I had a handful of misfires today on multiple cylinders. No more than 8, but I'd rather 0.

As for the compressor, that's beyond me. My FiL has already said he'd help me throw a new one on, so that's probably the route I will go.

I reinstalled the Lap3 chip and have not had any more CEL's.
 

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Right on cue, I had a handful of misfires today on multiple cylinders. No more than 8, but I'd rather 0.

As for the compressor, that's beyond me. My FiL has already said he'd help me throw a new one on, so that's probably the route I will go.

I reinstalled the Lap3 chip and have not had any more CEL's.
The AC clutch is an easy one. Watch any YouTube video about it (
). After the video, you can see if it is your issue.

The hard starts are likely carbon then. You car is six years old. I'd guess over 70K miles. Manually cleaning it out is a simple but long job. YouTube will also be your friend. I opt to pay for this service. I do not know of any Hyundai dealers that do a manual service. I just had my Tucson's carbon buildup removed by Audi/VW, at 26K miles. I provided the gaskets and they walnut blasted it. I should have grabbed a before and after picture.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The AC clutch is an easy one. Watch any YouTube video about it (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j7yflp1WFrU). After the video, you can see if it is your issue.

The hard starts are likely carbon then. You car is six years old. I'd guess over 70K miles. Manually cleaning it out is a simple but long job. YouTube will also be your friend. I opt to pay for this service. I do not know of any Hyundai dealers that do a manual service. I just had my Tucson's carbon buildup removed by Audi/VW, at 26K miles. I provided the gaskets and they walnut blasted it. I should have grabbed a before and after picture.
Motor is a replacement. 1 yr old. 20,000 miles (or so) on it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
New issues today. Car shut off on me about 1 mile after leaving home. Coasted into a drive, thankfully.


P0237 again

New ones
B2AAA - Body (????)
P0605
P2110

Pulled the Lap 3 chip and resumed driving. Cleared codes with no real change in performance noticed. The car is vibrating a lot when A/C is on now. Think recliner with built-in massager on the lowest level. I drove all day (route sales) with no more CEL's or issues other than the hard A/C vibrations.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Now a rattling noise from the engine bay when the car is in park and the A/C is on. Turn A/C off and the rattling noise stops. Put the car in drive and not moving, rattling noise is gone. Can't hear it outside the car in the engine bay to locate it.

Guess I'll just have to do the dreaded dealership. The A/C works correctly most of the time, just not in the middle of the day when it's hot...and I need it most. Freezes me out if it's only in the upper 70's or lower 80's. I'd rather not pay $600 for the compressor swap if that's not the issue.
 

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2008 Accent 3 dr 5 sp manual; 2010 Genesis Coupe 2LT track 6 sp manual
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My AC compressor rattles like a garbage truck at idle when it cycles. It has the clutch style compressor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I fixed the car idling hard issue by cleaning the paint from the negative ground points. I have turbo again.

The A/C still seems to have an issue, but I don't think it's the compressor. The A/C will NOT work at all when it's 90 or above outside. Once the outside temp hit 89 today, the A/C kicked on.

Could this be a thermostat issue or a sensor?
 

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2008 Accent 3 dr 5 sp manual; 2010 Genesis Coupe 2LT track 6 sp manual
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If the AC clutch has a lot of miles on it they may have too wide of a gap and cannot pull in the pulley when they get hot, or the clutch coil is weak. A way to test is to bump the non spinning pulley that is suppose to be spinning using a broom stick or something. Beware rotating parts. If you bump it and it kicks in then the gap is too wide. May be a shim you can remove under the pulley.
 
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