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My first oil change is coming up. The hyundai manual recommends that you use 5w-20 but says if not available you can use 5w-30 too. I think that 5w-30 is the way to go. 5w-20 is way to thin. Look at the data sheets at the end of these pages and compare them

5w-20
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/xlm.aspx
5w-30
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/asl.aspx

The 5w-30 is stated to last 25,000 miles while the 5w-20 is only stated to last about 7500 miles. I think 5w-20 is way to thin to provide protection and is sacrificing engine wear for a 1% increase in mpgs. Particularly important I think for a GDI engine is the Noack Volatility test, the 5w-30 is ~30% better vaporizing a lot less oil. Hyundai gives you the choice in the owners manual and I do not think the minuscule boost in mpgs is worth the engine damage or wear.

What do you guys think?
 

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QUOTE (osrk @ May 11 2010, 02:05 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=321811
My first oil change is coming up. The hyundai manual recommends that you use 5w-20 but says if not available you can use 5w-30 too. I think that 5w-30 is the way to go. 5w-20 is way to thin. Look at the data sheets at the end of these pages and compare them

5w-20
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/xlm.aspx
5w-30
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/asl.aspx

The 5w-30 is stated to last 25,000 miles while the 5w-20 is only stated to last about 7500 miles. I think 5w-20 is way to thin to provide protection and is sacrificing engine wear for a 1% increase in mpgs. Particularly important I think for a GDI engine is the Noack Volatility test, the 5w-30 is ~30% better vaporizing a lot less oil. Hyundai gives you the choice in the owners manual and I do not think the minuscule boost in mpgs is worth the engine damage or wear.

What do you guys think?
I think I will continue on with my Pennzoil Ultra 5W-20.
yes, yes, I know its expensive. $28 for a 5 gallon jug at Wally-World.

Took the car in for oil change to my dealer at 1000 miles, showed him the Ultra, no problem. Used the Original Equipment Manufacturer Hyundai filter.
I suppose if I was living in a very hot climate I might consider 5W-30. If I keep to the maintenance schedule based on my driving I have absolutely no qualms
about premature "engine damage or wear."
Am I worried about seeing/not seeing a 1% increase in fuel MPG? Nope, some lab might but I am not.

I will not go 25,000 between changes, will stay with the 3500 in severe driving, based on Wisconsin winters and most trips short, less than 20 miles. Yep, I know, possible I am throwing a few bucks down the drain with such a short interval change based on the type of oil. Some folks still like cigarettes at 10 bucks pack! Whatever pops your circuit breaker.

Use a good quality oil of your choosing and press on. Now if you really need to get into it: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/cms/
Lots of fun reading there and opinions all over the place.

Happy Motoring! :thumbsup:
 

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QUOTE (osrk @ May 11 2010, 03:05 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=321811
My first oil change is coming up. The hyundai manual recommends that you use 5w-20 but says if not available you can use 5w-30 too. I think that 5w-30 is the way to go. 5w-20 is way to thin. Look at the data sheets at the end of these pages and compare them

5w-20
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/xlm.aspx
5w-30
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/asl.aspx

The 5w-30 is stated to last 25,000 miles while the 5w-20 is only stated to last about 7500 miles. I think 5w-20 is way to thin to provide protection and is sacrificing engine wear for a 1% increase in mpgs. Particularly important I think for a GDI engine is the Noack Volatility test, the 5w-30 is ~30% better vaporizing a lot less oil. Hyundai gives you the choice in the owners manual and I do not think the minuscule boost in mpgs is worth the engine damage or wear.

What do you guys think?

Amsoil 5W-20 is formulated differently than its 5w-30. The life expectancy has nothing to do with the viscosity of oil.
Those two oils are in two different classes.

5W-20 was created for better gas mileage originally for cars that take 5W-30. And it saved tax for manufacturers in the US (CAFE). It of course caused more wear to the engine.
But I don't know that applies to the Sonata since they may have developed the engine around 5W-20. That case, 5W-30 would be too thick.

I would look into Korean owner's manual and see what is recommended there. They don't have the CAFE law, so they would recommend what's best for the engine.
 

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QUOTE (osrk @ May 11 2010, 02:05 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=321811
My first oil change is coming up. The hyundai manual recommends that you use 5w-20 but says if not available you can use 5w-30 too. I think that 5w-30 is the way to go. 5w-20 is way to thin. Look at the data sheets at the end of these pages and compare them

5w-20
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/xlm.aspx
5w-30
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/asl.aspx

The 5w-30 is stated to last 25,000 miles while the 5w-20 is only stated to last about 7500 miles. I think 5w-20 is way to thin to provide protection and is sacrificing engine wear for a 1% increase in mpgs. Particularly important I think for a GDI engine is the Noack Volatility test, the 5w-30 is ~30% better vaporizing a lot less oil. Hyundai gives you the choice in the owners manual and I do not think the minuscule boost in mpgs is worth the engine damage or wear.

What do you guys think?
Depending on your winters, I agree 5w20 is thin, and possibly compromises maximum protection in hot weather. I suppose the
water-thin oil is recommended to help fleet gas mileage.

On the other hand, 25000 mile oil is over kill if you change it at 7500mi, the maximum change interval for normal service.
 

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What defines too thick? At 212*F, the 20w is 8.5 cSt and the 30w is 10.8cSt. At 104*F, the 20w is 45 cSt and the 30w is 60.7cSt. (That's about 5 times thicker.) At 20*F or 30*F, both oils are probably ten times that thicker than that. Compared to a winter start, the 30w (10.8 cSt) is still super thin. If someone worries about 2-3 cSt at operating temperature on a 9 cSt oil, they must totally freak out at the thought of a winter's cold start when even 0w oil is probably in the 100cSt area. It's all a matter of perspective. I can't see how 30w oil can hurt anyone's engine if they all survive daily cold starts.
 

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My personal experience with 5w20 will never ever in the world will be put into any of my cars...also in your owners manual 5w30 is approved to be used anyways at the same temp ranges. It cost my Mustang to have a blown engine (it was covered under warranty but what a hassle to go through)

Also, remember that this is a Direct Injected engine, you need an oil that will not "blow-by" or burn off so that it keeps the intake valves as clean as possible.

I dont know if you guys have noticed but a car running with dino oil, after about 60K miles you are going to see slug and deposit where you put your oil in. Reason for that is actually dino starts burning and sludging after about 2K miles. Dino has wax which creates the deposits.

The only reason you should ever change your oil at 3700 miles is if all you do is stop and go traffic, or live in the coldest temps throughout the year. 7500 miles is a good milestone to change oil. Whether you use AMSOIL or not, make sure that you do use a good-high quality synthetic to protect your direct injected motor. I know hyundai has done a great job preventing deposits on intake valves but it is just the design of DI engines.

The last thing you want to be cheap at is your motor oil.


FYI AMSOIL does make a filter when I cross referenced purolator, i believe it is eo20.

If you have any questions about amsoil, just shoot a pm to me...I am an amsoil dealer.

Also if you change your own oil, make sure you keep all your receipts and a log book of somekind for warranty purposes.
 

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I've got an '03 Honda Accord with 100,000 miles on it now and have used 5W-20 as speced for that motor from day 1. It runs as well as the day I bought it. Got an '07 Scion tc with 40,000 miles and it runs great on 5W-20 as speced. I would not be afraid to use the oil specified by the manufacturor. Especially in a car that the company is going to warrany the powertrain for 10 / 100,000. I don't think Hyundai is going to risk their motors with an oil that is not up to par. Of course the oil was originally speced for fuel mileage purposes, but personally I think that today's name brand oils, and especially synthetics, are up to the task of protecting the engine.

Just my 2 cents. Your opinion may vary.
 

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Hyundai recommends Quaker State for oil according to the manual. I for one have never used Quaker State, and I don't think I plan on changing my oil anymore. I figure I will follow the recommendations for normal driving conditions which is 7500.
 

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Car manufacturers in the united states now recommend 5w20 because it may mean 1 more MPG in there fleets, and that can save them a LOT of money and make them look alot better in the eyes of the govt and buyers. For most of us, 1mpg is not as big a deal as the supposed increased engine wear.

Though, for 90% of drivers, modern oil is so good and tolerances are so tight, that you probably won't notice any increased engine wear either. The 3rd owner at 200k miles may in 15 years, but I doubt anyone here cares.

For extreme cold (the north), heat (the south), or usage (drive it like you stole it) you prolly wanna go with 5w30 just to be on the safe side.

Personally, i drive my cars HARD and run german castrol 0w30, which acts more like a 0w35 for quick oiling during cold starts and excellent protection during hard driving. This oil is 2nd only to Amsoil, but locally available and cheap, and I like changing my oil only twice a year (I change earlier than recommended).

Note that in general Castrol synthetic isnt great. Only the 0w30 made in germany is good, and is only found at Autozone. You can usually get the oil change deal for $26 with a better filter. This oil is better and cheaper than Mobile1, though honestly, again, for 90% of owners, any oil you can get cheap and change regularlly is absolutely fine.
 

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QUOTE (mostholycerebus @ May 24 2010, 01:07 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=325864
Car manufacturers in the united states now recommend 5w20 because it may mean 1 more MPG in there fleets.
It's actually 0.1 MPG, not 1.0 :grin: , which is negligible. And their 'recommendation' is more of being forced by the EPA to state it rather than good for the engine. I'm using 5/30 myself, but I'm glad you mentioned German Castrol since I thought it wasn't imported anymore. I used to buy the 'green' one, which was supposedly superior than the current stuff, but even the current 0/30 is Group IV, so superior than all other commercial 'synthetics' like Mobil1/Syntech/etc. indeed. Will look for those specials at Autozone; thanks for the heads up :thumbsup: .
 

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QUOTE (mostholycerebus @ May 24 2010, 01:07 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=325864
Personally, i drive my cars HARD and run german castrol 0w30, which acts more like a 0w35 for quick oiling during cold starts and excellent protection during hard driving. This oil is 2nd only to Amsoil, but locally available and cheap, and I like changing my oil only twice a year (I change earlier than recommended).

Note that in general Castrol synthetic isnt great. Only the 0w30 made in germany is good, and is only found at Autozone. You can usually get the oil change deal for $26 with a better filter. This oil is better and cheaper than Mobile1, though honestly, again, for 90% of owners, any oil you can get cheap and change regularlly is absolutely fine.

I'm interested. Certainly sounds superior to the standard Syntec offered at the dealership, but does the German Castrol meet the Hyundai and/or dealership specs as to what is acceptable? Ironic to have to ask that, but you know how the fine print can be....manual states 5W30 or 5W20. Will the dealership use it if I bring it in?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I changed my oil on sunday and put in Amsoil 5w-30 synthetic. The manual states that you can use either 5w-20 or 5w-30 in the same temperature band. I put a lot of highway miles on it so i'm going for the slightly higher viscosity. The 5w-30 also has a lower volatility meaning less of the oil will vaporize and that mean's less of a potential to cover the air intake valves. Overall I'm going to stick with 5w-30.
 

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QUOTE (Klooks Kleek @ May 24 2010, 02:43 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=325884
I'm interested. Certainly sounds superior to the standard Syntec offered at the dealership, but does the German Castrol meet the Hyundai and/or dealership specs as to what is acceptable? Ironic to have to ask that, but you know how the fine print can be....manual states 5W30 or 5W20. Will the dealership use it if I bring it in?
If you look on the back of the bottle, it meets or exceeds certifications that most oils don't even get near.

Depends on the dealer. Some mechanics may swipe it for themselves and give you whats in their huge tub of sediment-saturated cheapo oil. Do it yourself, you know what goes in it, and you know its done right.

If you ask the dealer or mechs, anything they can't sell you voids warranty. :whistling:
 

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It's my understanding that German synthetic oil is API standard VI. They don't allow API synthetic III to call itself "synthetic" oil in Europe, unlike the USA. Thus unless your synthetic oil meets the API IV standard, the German stuff is better.
 

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QUOTE (w9nwrwi @ May 11 2010, 04:32 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=321851


So you asked Pennzoil if their oil was good for your car, and they said yes?? That' a surprise lol.


of coarse they are going to say that penz oil is a terrible oil I don't recommend it in any weight or type for any car

QUOTE (osrk @ May 11 2010, 02:05 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=321811

Depending on your winters, I agree 5w20 is thin, and possibly compromises maximum protection in hot weather. I suppose the
water-thin oil is recommended to help fleet gas mileage.

On the other hand, 25000 mile oil is over kill if you change it at 7500mi, the maximum change interval for normal service.

Honestly I have never seen a car that went over the 3000 mile oil change not be low or burning also the computer for oil change intervals in vehicles doesn't know what its talking about either. Just use the correct weight in a good brand like valve. Check it every once in a while while getting gas an don't go over 3500 miles.
 
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