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Discussion Starter #1
The dealer wants 300 for brake pads and says I have very little remaining. I feel nothing wrong with my brakes. Mavis discount tire has a special for 79.99, they say they use Raysbestos pads. Is this OK to go with? The car is a 2014 Azera if it matters. I think the 300 is way too high and I don't even know if I am low on pads. the car has 34k miles and its mainly highway (bought at 14k)
 

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You may be low on the pads... but $300 ? ? Unless your rotors are shot and in the deal... stay away from your dealer.

At 34K you only need pads unless the rotors are somehow shot.
 

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There is a difference in the type of material used on a pad and you may wish to check as to what the pads are made of before just comparing prices. You need to compare apples to apples on the pads and installation. Unless of course you are not going to keep the vehicle, in that case go with the cheapest material you can find. Discount shops usually use less expensive (lower quality, lower useful life) pads than a dealer would. As to the life left on the pads, second opinions are free, get one. 34,000 does seem low mileage for pads but a lot of variables can affect the life.
 

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If you feel comfortable doing so, pull off a wheel or two and check the pads. there is usually a metal band that loops near the pad. see how close it is to touching the rotor. As far as $300, that is for OEM pads and steal-ership labor costs.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
the guy at Mavis said they were ceramic, but I'm not sure what "grade" they are. I know theres service, performance etc. I actually am only planning to keep this car for a year at most, might get into something sportier.

Does anyone know what the OEM pads are and how to find online?

just saw your post forgeinaz - I have no tools or skills to do really anything with cars, and actually I am not allowed to in my apartment complex lol. I will have the guy check it first. My main concern is if I go with this shop for cheaper, what if they aren't done right? the shop near me does get pretty high reviews.
 

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They will also be ceramic, but if you aren't keeping the car. go with the deal
 
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I remember getting a $29.95 brake job at Meineke. Ended up paying $500 and they used cheap organic pads that needed to be replaced in 20,000 miles. I don't know Mavis, but is that the full cost? It was $50 for Meineke to just replace Lifetime Warranty pads.

My dealership will run a special for $250 per axle. Includes resurfacing rotors and new pads. Normally $300.00. Talked to my local Indy Shop checking prices and they charge $320 for pads and rotors. So Dealership price seems in ballpark.

The question is are they already worn? Just because someone says they are worn does not mean it. A second or third opinion may be in order.

Where does your family and friends go that has good prices and does good work?
 

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One of the handiest tools I own:

[ame]https://www.amazon.com/STEELMAN-97844-8-Piece-Lining-Thickness/dp/B003QHSHMW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1524804631&sr=8-1&keywords=brake+pad+thickness+gauge&dpID=416hvMxSkjL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch[/ame]

If your wheels are the right spoke type, you can use it while still mounted.

Check the reviews.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I remember getting a $29.95 brake job at Meineke. Ended up paying $500 and they used cheap organic pads that needed to be replaced in 20,000 miles. I don't know Mavis, but is that the full cost? It was $50 for Meineke to just replace Lifetime Warranty pads.

My dealership will run a special for $250 per axle. Includes resurfacing rotors and new pads. Normally $300.00. Talked to my local Indy Shop checking prices and they charge $320 for pads and rotors. So Dealership price seems in ballpark.

The question is are they already worn? Just because someone says they are worn does not mean it. A second or third opinion may be in order.

Where does your family and friends go that has good prices and does good work?
I found the $300 includes resurfacing so maybe it's not too bad. most of my family is 90 minutes away so I'm not really sure. I am going for a 2nd opinion today
 

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$300, run away fast.
 

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Buy the OEM pads online for $50, go to a local shop and be done for $150, assuming they charge $100 for an hour of labor. $150 saved for other things and experience in life....

In the driveway, 30 minutes is tops for a brake pad change, and more time is taken getting the car jacked up, lug nuts and tire off.
 

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Often a dealer or a shop will "recommend" new rotors whenever they replace brake pads. I suspect your estimate includes this. If they refuse to do it without replacing the rotors, go somewhere else. However, if the cheaper option does not include bleeding the brake fluid, that's not good either. Make sure your numbers are apples-to-apples before making a decision.
 

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Often a dealer or a shop will "recommend" new rotors whenever they replace brake pads. I suspect your estimate includes this. If they refuse to do it without replacing the rotors, go somewhere else. However, if the cheaper option does not include bleeding the brake fluid, that's not good either. Make sure your numbers are apples-to-apples before making a decision.
I don't know about Hyundai yet, but with many cars the rotors are so low cost, that it is just about as inexpensive to replace them as it is to machine them. The other problem is that many are so thin to begin with that after wear and machining they are thin enough to warp before long.
I do my own brakes (saves a lot of money), and if any of the rotors need attention, I replace them for $40 instead of having them machined for $30. (not exact figures)
 

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If your rotors are good you may find someone that will just install new pads. Since you are planning to get rid of car that may be the route to go. My retired mechanic used to do that for about $80.00.

I learned to do brakes after getting the expensive brake job. I would just put new pads on the same rotors when pads wore out. It worked but I did something called indexing to ensure my rotors did not wobble. If you have no pulsation when braking your rotors are probably OK.

Some shops will push for resurfacing rotors or selling you new ones.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
so I took it for a 2nd opinion and it says the brake pads are below 3mm, so I know i need those, but the shop says they will only do the brakes along with rotors and a brake flush? and that will be over $600... no way I'm going to do that but I am not sure what to do. Can I drive on it for a few days? I don't feel any symptoms of bad brakes. Can anyone recommend a reputable shop in New Jersey or should I just go to somewhere that will just replace my pads?

The shop here is saying that newer car rotors are thin and resurfacing wouldn't make much sense.
 

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Did the 2nd opinion come from Mavis? If not call Mavis back and see what their discount price covers and what adding a bleed and either replacing or resurfacing if necessary would cover. That gives you two or three estimates for the job.
 

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so I took it for a 2nd opinion and it says the brake pads are below 3mm, so I know i need those, but the shop says they will only do the brakes along with rotors and a brake flush? and that will be over $600... no way I'm going to do that but I am not sure what to do. Can I drive on it for a few days? I don't feel any symptoms of bad brakes. Can anyone recommend a reputable shop in New Jersey or should I just go to somewhere that will just replace my pads?

The shop here is saying that newer car rotors are thin and resurfacing wouldn't make much sense.
The $600 is way overpriced which shows the $300 range is more standard. They wanted to flush your brake fluid along with your wallet or purse.

Yes, you can drive. You should hear a high pitched metallic sound when wear indicator touches the rotor. That means not much time is left before the pad metal and rotor metal make contact. Then replacing rotors is not an option.

I would wait to hear the wear indicator sound in my past car. Within a few days I replaced the pads. Never had a problem doing it that way.

They have a point about rotor thickness, but I know my dealership does advertise resurfacing rotors with $250.00 price. Some original/OEM rotors are thicker than after market ones. Since their price was way too much, it is probably more about them making more profit. It is common to charge 40% more for parts they install. Turning rotors is just labor.

Bleeding brake fluid is nice, but not essential unless you race. My last car was done at 200k when I did rear wheel cylinders. Now, if you were going to keep the car it is something I would consider. But it does not need to be done at time of changing pads.

I have used the Car Talk Mechanics Files to find a reputable Mom and Pop shop I have used. Not sure how up to date it is.

https://www.cartalk.com/mechanics-files
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Did the 2nd opinion come from Mavis? If not call Mavis back and see what their discount price covers and what adding a bleed and either replacing or resurfacing if necessary would cover. That gives you two or three estimates for the job.
nope going to mavis today. I'm sure the $80 is only for pads
 

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This is why I HATE brake shops. I got ripped off so many times I finally started doing the brakes myself. I can use the best parts and replace the rotors for so much less. In your case, $600 is ridiculous. The only way rotors should be bad at 34k miles is if you've been driving on bad (completely worn out) pads. You would hear a grinding type noise every time you used the brakes.

Try repairpal.com, or Yelp or Google to find an independent mechanic. Many will install the parts you bring, so you can order through Rock Auto or Amazon for example, get top quality parts and save money. Good luck.
 
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