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Discussion Starter #1
First post ever. Just got my 2020 Elantra SE last month and it has less than 2k miles and already face these problems. FYI, I'm one of those that very light foot on gas and brake (previous Toyota Prius owner everyone on the street hates).

1) Jerking at start. When I switch from P to Drive and gently depress the gas, it start slowly then sudden jump and then regain normal speed. This happened randomly, more often on cold day no matter how gently I press the gas.

2) Surge when slowing down. This happen a lot more often, when I try to press the brake to slow down, the car would slow to around 15-25 mph and then I feel a sudden surge in car speed and engine rpm from 1000 to 1400 rpm..

3) Cruise control increase RPM by 500-600... (there is a post on here about this but cannot paste the link due to first post)

The first issue isn't the the deal breaker for me since it might be the cold weather in Oklahoma (below 30F recently) but the second is what really scare the crap out of me. Imagine you need to pull a hard brake on highway and the car do this. Searching around the internet shows really scary result with many CVT facing this issue, particularly the horrible Nissan one. I haven't brought it to the dealership but plan to this weekend.

The third issue may affect my MPG but I can drive with foot no issue.

This make me feel like I'm getting a lemon now. Has anyone with a 2020 experienced these?
 

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First post ever. Just got my 2020 Elantra SE last month and it has less than 2k miles and already face these problems. FYI, I'm one of those that very light foot on gas and brake (previous Toyota Prius owner everyone on the street hates).

1) Jerking at start. When I switch from P to Drive and gently depress the gas, it start slowly then sudden jump and then regain normal speed. This happened randomly, more often on cold day no matter how gently I press the gas.

2) Surge when slowing down. This happen a lot more often, when I try to press the brake to slow down, the car would slow to around 15-25 mph and then I feel a sudden surge in car speed and engine rpm from 1000 to 1400 rpm..

3) Cruise control increase RPM by 500-600... (there is a post on here about this but cannot paste the link due to first post)

The first issue isn't the the deal breaker for me since it might be the cold weather in Oklahoma (below 30F recently) but the second is what really scare the crap out of me. Imagine you need to pull a hard brake on highway and the car do this. Searching around the internet shows really scary result with many CVT facing this issue, particularly the horrible Nissan one. I haven't brought it to the dealership but plan to this weekend.

The third issue may affect my MPG but I can drive with foot no issue.

This make me feel like I'm getting a lemon now. Has anyone with a 2020 experienced these?

Number 2 sounds like the car is "downshifting" since a CVT is continuously variable, it's constantly trying to find the sweet spot. I could be wrong, but that's how it sounds to me.

Number 3 is normal from what I've seen with cruise control, in order to maintain desired speed the car will continually adjust throttle input. It has been shown that cruise control is far less fuel efficient than normal driving.
 

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Number 2 sounds like the car is "downshifting" since a CVT is continuously variable, it's constantly trying to find the sweet spot. I could be wrong, but that's how it sounds to me.

Number 3 is normal from what I've seen with cruise control, in order to maintain desired speed the car will continually adjust throttle input. It has been shown that cruise control is far less fuel efficient than normal driving.
Based on the other post about cruise control RPM, the way the cruise control works with the CVT in these vehicles seems to be really weird. With the 6 speed in my 2017, cruise control seems to generally provide the best fuel mileage, but that appears to be far from true with the CVT.
 

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My 2017 SE engine and transmission pretty much perfect for 22k. I did have to learn what is normal. Switching between Eco and Sport gives a different experience. In your case I think it is more the new CVT and you have my sympathy. I had one brake booster recall the first week of ownership. I got a faster response to getting it replaced right away calling Hyundai's 1-800 number after my dealership refused to schedule my appointment:

(800) 633-5151 is the number listed on their website.
Mon-Fri 5:00am - 7:00pm PST Sat-Sun 6:30am - 3:00pm PST

I hope the dealership or Hyundai can get this fixed pronto!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thank you guys, I already schedule an appointment with the dealership on Saturday. Will see what they say about the surge, jerk at low speed and cruise control.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I had to leave my new 2020 Elantra with dealer because of transmission issue. Be careful!
Sorry to hear that. Can you describe the problem in more detail? How many miles do you have on it? what did the car do? etc. Thank you :)

I went to the dealer on Saturday and they told me there is no technician on weekend even though I describe the problem to them carefully. Will have to come back sometime this week.
 

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I stopped at a red light. There was a right lane with no where to go and soon to end, the lane I was in and the turn lane to a Family Dollar. Light turned green and I had no power. No RPMs as my car S L O W L E Y CRAWLED up to 5mph. I moved to the right lane, waited for the light again, and then coasted into Family Dollar. Waited 2 hours for a tow. Clermont Hyundai told me all was fine, get back on the road. Twenty miles up the road, it started doing it again. Once above 20 mph,it would pick up speed but it took more than it should to get to that point. I called for a second tow truck closer to my home and had it towed to the dealer. I was almost rear ended too many times. They kept it, drove it around, called two days later to tell me the transmission needs to be replaced but it is on back order and it could be 15, 30, 60, 90 days before I get back in my car.
Joy.
I bought a lemon.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
I stopped at a red light. There was a right lane with no where to go and soon to end, the lane I was in and the turn lane to a Family Dollar. Light turned green and I had no power. No RPMs as my car S L O W L E Y CRAWLED up to 5mph. I moved to the right lane, waited for the light again, and then coasted into Family Dollar. Waited 2 hours for a tow. Clermont Hyundai told me all was fine, get back on the road. Twenty miles up the road, it started doing it again. Once above 20 mph,it would pick up speed but it took more than it should to get to that point. I called for a second tow truck closer to my home and had it towed to the dealer. I was almost rear ended too many times. They kept it, drove it around, called two days later to tell me the transmission needs to be replaced but it is on back order and it could be 15, 30, 60, 90 days before I get back in my car.
Joy.
I bought a lemon.
I'm feeling similar things too at LOW speed. The car kinda hesitate to speed up or lurch forward fast while driving slow. Didn't completely lose power like you did though.
How many miles have you had on it. If you report this to NHTSA, it can really help others.
 

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I stopped at a red light. There was a right lane with no where to go and soon to end, the lane I was in and the turn lane to a Family Dollar. Light turned green and I had no power. No RPMs as my car S L O W L E Y CRAWLED up to 5mph. I moved to the right lane, waited for the light again, and then coasted into Family Dollar. Waited 2 hours for a tow. Clermont Hyundai told me all was fine, get back on the road. Twenty miles up the road, it started doing it again. Once above 20 mph,it would pick up speed but it took more than it should to get to that point. I called for a second tow truck closer to my home and had it towed to the dealer. I was almost rear ended too many times. They kept it, drove it around, called two days later to tell me the transmission needs to be replaced but it is on back order and it could be 15, 30, 60, 90 days before I get back in my car.
Joy.
I bought a lemon.
That is just wrong at so many levels. How the dealership told you to go back on the road putting you at harms way. How Hyundai can put out their new "Intelligent" defective transmission right out of the gate.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ok guys, I went to the dealership and was lucky that a technician were there and were able to look at my car. He said the cruise control and high rpm is sth that hyundai and kia will have to address. He told me not to quote him on anything but it's likely the car internal cruise control software.

TL;DR VERSION: DON'T DRIVE LIKE A 6 SPEED AUTO OR MANUAL, DONT STEP AND RELEASE. SMOOTH ACCELERSTION AND CONSTANT SOFT BRAKE, PRATICE HELPS. DONT CHANGE MODE WHILE CAR IS MOVING. SMART MODE MAY TRY TO FIGHT YOU TO KEEP CAR REV CONSTANT, NORMAL MODE FTW.

For the surge and jerk issue, he showed me some tips with driving a CVT cuz he owns the kia with one too. He stress that
1) SHOULD NOT DRIVE IT LIKE A NORMAL 6 SPEED OR MANUAL. Don't step and release or stab the gas like you normally would. - This is how a majority of us drive i guess.
2) When accelerate, press it slowly and gradually increase the engine rev to above the normal operating range at that speed (take experience to know the sweet spot). Once you get close to your desire speed, very slowly depress the gas while still feeling the car going a little faster or same speed. I test this and definitely see how much smoother it went. My years of press hard and release with the prius eCVT isn't helping here. He patiently sit with me through this practice and I did notice how smooth tach move up and down...
3) When slowing down, keep feet on the brake and smoothly brake and press a graduallt harder. - I guess my prius regenerative braking spoiled me cuz I did the opposite, gradually softer. I tried and saw a less jerking forward. This is really hard to master, will see if I can practice to eliminate this.
4) Dont use SMART mode when trying to accelerate to highway speed. - Weird advice but actually true and make my acceleration better. I guess normal mode is the way to go for me from now on.
5) Avoid switching mode while the car is moving to avoid putting stress on the electrical and the CVT. - Well, this makes sense.

Check the 2019 Kia forte complaint on NHTSA and saw 10+ complaints regarding the new CVT failing (similar engine and cvt to 2020 elantra). I believe the number of failure is more than this irl. It will take a couple more years for people to get to 60-80k miles. That was where multiple nissan cvt failure happened. I guess we are one of the first batch of customers who owns hyundai cvt.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
OK. Found a solution to this issue while reading on Toyota Camry 2020 review on Edmunds. Turn off Traction Control while driving in town. This sound silly but the electrical behind this system really makes this vehicle act weirdly at stop and start. I turned it off and everything is as smooth as expected. No more jerk/surge at start/stop. When I get to the freeway and up to speed, I turn it on again for safety just in case. Hope this help guys!
 

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Principle of CVT in automotive is the same as in a snowmobile, something I am very familiar. In a geared transmission requires a torque converter for slippage when in gear and stopped.

In a CVT have two pulleys that are belt driven, the drive pulley has a centrifugal weight that closes the two sheave halves together with speed so the drive belt slips.

Ever since I had my first AT in a 1949 Olds 98, would slip the gear selector in neutral when stopped, not much different than a MT have to step on the clutch. Stalled torque converter generate a lot of heat, they last a lot longer in neutral, Still drive my Limited this weight that closed the two sheave halves together, at idle, sheaves are so far apart the belt doesn't have any friction, the driven sheave is spring loaded, halves are close together bit they spread apart with speed for a lower drive ratio.

Heat is the major issue for AT failure.

Snow mobile uses a rubber belt, car, some kind of steel belt, that I know nothing about but souldn mean. So if you do slam on the gas, drive sheave will quickly close and will not be much different than popping the clutch on an MT. Also have reverse on an automobile, have to push your snowmobile backwards.

This is why you are told to step on the gas easy, can actually kill the engine if you slam on the gas.

Dealer nice was to top off the tank, with E10, couldn't wait to get rid of that crap, absorbs moisture, causes corrosion, ethanol does not mix with gasoline, its heavier, settles, engine burns that first leaving you with low octane fuel. Really incredibly stupid.

First day, shiny new Limited need splash shields, that's the politically correct name for mud flaps, while I was at it, lubricated all the brakes, silicon on the caliper pins, jammed so salt does not enter the boots, anti seize on everything else.

Spark plug gap was all over the place, set them all to 0.025 inches for the most reliable spark, excess gaps cause misfire, Spark has a fixed energy, large gap is high voltage, your ignition module will get that down to keep from blowing the gated bipolar transistor, less energy for the plug, also much lower current, when voltage goes up, current goes down, easier to blow the spark out with air fuel rushes. Also did a compression check for future references.

Practically all lamp sockets require a silicone grease so the heat doesn't bake the caps on so you can't every get them off. Call this post production maintenance.

Traction control, what a joke, will never ever replace a limited slip differential. What ABS does, is shut down brake fluid pressure to a stalled wheel on ice with some weird worthless theory that a turning wheel has more stopping power, more BS from our congress, don't know crap about cars. With traction control, just the opposite, applies triggered braking to a spinning wheel to hopefully give you more traction, more BS.

So if you slam on the gas, the wheel with less traction will spin being fault back with pulse braking, you got to be kidding.
 

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I am sorry to read some bad reviews about the IVT. I'm not sure why Hyundia took this route. Their 6 speed was so reliable - can last 200k+ miles so easily with decent regular fluid changes (Not even flushes). I hope this IVT can last that long.
I wish they had instead designed a reliable 8-speed automatic to get that extra mpg gas mileage. These days, the trend is to get the best Gas mileage over long term reliability. :(
In-fact I choose the Elantra over Civic just because it had the 6 speed automatic!!
 

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I’m having a similar problem with mine where I’m typically feather footing it and from armed light I go to accelerate and it kinda crawls forwards while my rpms Jump up to 3000 before it engages and lurches forwards but another weird thing I noticed on the freeway, when I’m around 2000rpm the rpms would randomly bounce up and down like it was shifting back and forth like it couldn’t make up its mind what gear it wanted to be in, and this is me just driving not using cruise control. Anyone else having this problem???
 

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I’m having a similar problem with mine where I’m typically feather footing it and from armed light I go to accelerate and it kinda crawls forwards while my rpms Jump up to 3000 before it engages and lurches forwards but another weird thing I noticed on the freeway, when I’m around 2000rpm the rpms would randomly bounce up and down like it was shifting back and forth like it couldn’t make up its mind what gear it wanted to be in, and this is me just driving not using cruise control.
Do you know what "drive mode" you're using? Have you experimented with the different modes? On my 2017 with the six speed automatic there's a big different between Normal mode and Sport mode in terms of acceleration. You could try Sport mode to see if it deals with the crawling and lurching.
 

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Do you know what "drive mode" you're using? Have you experimented with the different modes? On my 2017 with the six speed automatic there's a big different between Normal mode and Sport mode in terms of acceleration. You could try Sport mode to see if it deals with the crawling and lurching.
I was driving in normal to maximize MPGs. My girlfriend has a 2018 Elantra that gets great mileage with a normal transmission, but I get really bad mileage comparatively with the CVT. I get maybe 32-35 MPG driving on the highway when on a road trip and at only a little over 2000 miles, my transmission died and I had to get it replaced which took almost a full month and they didn’t offer me a loaner vehicle, I was told to rent from enterprise and then they were only going to reimburse for part of it. Be careful about buying Hyundai’s CVTs I have a feeling it has to do with the programming of the computer because it failed when in cruise control with no check engine lights. Neutral was acting like drive and reverse was acting like neutral. It got stuck into 5th gear and would not downshift and I kept redlining. Luckily I was able to make it safely off the freeway without an accident.
 

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We picked up our 2017 on a Wednesday night, wife was working doing the day and the only night the dealer was opened have bankers hours.

Also had a misfire, next morning pull the spark plugs gaps were all over the place, gaped all of them to 0.025" that got rid of the idle misfire or engine stumbling.

You will find on this brand new thing oil, coolant, brake fluid not filled up to par and wonder why we are charged a prep fee, maybe for removing the paper on the floor mats. Will find no splash shields so your sticking out tires can hit stones on your doors and rear bumper and your brake system is dry, not an ounce of lubricant even the caliper pins are dry. Call this post production maintenance.

Did fill out tank with ethanol, got rid of the crap ASAP, don't want my car getting drunk.
 

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My girlfriend has a 2018 Elantra that gets great mileage with a normal transmission, but I get really bad mileage comparatively with the CVT. Be careful about buying Hyundai’s CVTs.
Your gas mileage - 32-35 MPG - does sound a little low for highway. The stated range is 30 City 40 Highway. How is the new transmission working and what is your gas mileage now?
 

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First post ever. Just got my 2020 Elantra SE last month and it has less than 2k miles and already face these problems. FYI, I'm one of those that very light foot on gas and brake (previous Toyota Prius owner everyone on the street hates).

1) Jerking at start. When I switch from P to Drive and gently depress the gas, it start slowly then sudden jump and then regain normal speed. This happened randomly, more often on cold day no matter how gently I press the gas.

2) Surge when slowing down. This happen a lot more often, when I try to press the brake to slow down, the car would slow to around 15-25 mph and then I feel a sudden surge in car speed and engine rpm from 1000 to 1400 rpm..

3) Cruise control increase RPM by 500-600... (there is a post on here about this but cannot paste the link due to first post)

The first issue isn't the the deal breaker for me since it might be the cold weather in Oklahoma (below 30F recently) but the second is what really scare the crap out of me. Imagine you need to pull a hard brake on highway and the car do this. Searching around the internet shows really scary result with many CVT facing this issue, particularly the horrible Nissan one. I haven't brought it to the dealership but plan to this weekend.

The third issue may affect my MPG but I can drive with foot no issue.

This make me feel like I'm getting a lemon now. Has anyone with a 2020 experienced these?
I am not surprised to read of your troubles. In mid December, I purchased a Hyundai Sonata SE, I had similar issues.. it just never felt right.. a perceptive driver can always tell when a vehicle isnt performing correctly. I noticed a lot of surging and slowing down while in cruise control. I would step on the gas at a green light and would have a noticeable hesitation - when I step on the gas I want the vehicle to move! Just not a smooth ride. I had a 2014 Sonata SEL before that and it was an amazing vehicle, drove 10X better than the 2020. I called the dealership on day one and said I was not happy with some of the performance and simply did not want it.. Hyundai has a 3 day swap out policy, they kept talking me into keeping it but by the 3rd day I said no way. The told me to drive it until after Christmas and then we would make a change.. before Christmas the engine light came on. I was furious - brought it there and demanded we make the change immediately. They hoped I would fall in love with it - well I did fall in love with the looks, its a pretty gal, but I am not going to pay 5 years to have it parked with something seriously wrong. So, it did cost me 2500. but I drove off in a 2021 Hyundai Tucson. Amazing vehicle. I have always had sportscars and do miss the Sonata.. but I think there are some glitches. Did you notice that when you open the rear doors that water has gotten in? There is an issue with the seal / design.. water means rust. Good luck with your issues. I hope they are short lived. Question - do you have an update?
 
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