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Discussion Starter #41
Are you going with different sizes wheels front from rear? But same size tires, it will create a stagger with the different size wheels even though the tires are the same size. Also is the hub centric spacer just to center the wheel or also as a spacer to move it out

Looking forward to pictures?
Front and back will be the same. As stated above, only difference is bolt pattern. The shop i ordered from had the double bolt pattern for $101, but only had 2 in stock, and the single bolt pattern for $146. Thought id save some money for a very small difference between the two. Will have the multi-bolts in the back first, single up front. Rotates will be front to back, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #42
Ill have the new wheels installed by this Tuesday at the latest. Some before pics with the vinyl wrap and my neighbor’s Lexus with the same color scheme. He saw my Elantra without the roof wrap (wrapped it 3 years ago and took if off this summer), and the Sonata as well. I’m hoping he isnt thinking that I’m copying his style since he also vinyl wrapped his roof etc etc. lol
 

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Discussion Starter #43
At a tire shop getting them mounted and balanced. Front desk tells me that the TPMS might not work with the wheels because of an improper valve stem.? I got valve stems from the shop i bought the wheels but he said those wont work either. A little confused now. What valve stem am i supposed to be using for new wheels, specifically the XXR’s if not the OEM valves?
 

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Discussion Starter #44
Little teaser. Tried them on using stock lug nuts. Pops out a little more than i’d like but might go lower with a little more camber. Rear wheel is stock in the photo*
 

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Little teaser. Tried them on using stock lug nuts. Pops out a little more than i’d like but might go lower with a little more camber. Rear wheel is stock in the photo*
Waiting for the new pictures of the wheels and tires.......
 

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Discussion Starter #46 (Edited)
Little teaser. Tried them on using stock lug nuts. Pops out a little more than i’d like but might go lower with a little more camber. Rear wheel is stock in the photo*
Waiting for the new pictures of the wheels and tires.......
Didn’t have much time to take more pics due to a funeral, but here a few. Lowering the car a little more tomorrow. The drive is noticeably louder and rougher, but expected.

I'll be uploading pictures to my new Flickr account, any pics I try to upload here seem to turn to poop quality. Link below:

https://flic.kr/s/aHsm95B7VX
 

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SJ408

Looks great! For my tastes the front is perfect, I would lower the rear a little more to close the wheel well gap if it does not make the rear lower than the front. if it does than I guess Id go the minimum amount on the front to keep it level or minor rake after closing the gap in the rear.

Just my opinion but without a body kit or at least flared wells i dont think these cars need to be slammed or too low to look good.

I just ordered a set of Megan Springs, the drop is 1.25 front and 1.12 rear and it looks like that will close up the wheel gaps to be about 1-1.5 " over the top of the wheel and that is what im looking for.

Good Job on your car.
 

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Discussion Starter #48
Most likely a useless mod, but I ended up ordering a throttle body spacer for $45. I was doing some research for fun and stumbled upon these two videos:

There was a little bit of increase in torque and hp, not much but eh. For $45, doesn't hurt too much if it does nothing. Makes my intake setup a bit more eye candy. I do have a friend back in the Bay that said I could dyno my car if I wanted to. Might take him up on that offer and pop my stock intake on, then just the spacer, then both the spacer and DIY intake to compare if there is any difference at all.
 

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Most likely a useless mod, but I ended up ordering a throttle body spacer for $45. I was doing some research for fun and stumbled upon these two videos: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uzju3xBFHaY
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FNcQk0k4DRY

There was a little bit of increase in torque and hp, not much but eh. For $45, doesn't hurt too much if it does nothing. Makes my intake setup a bit more eye candy. I do have a friend back in the Bay that said I could dyno my car if I wanted to. Might take him up on that offer and pop my stock intake on, then just the spacer, then both the spacer and DIY intake to compare if there is any difference at all.
I would like to see a real life with and without dyno run. IMO Throttle Body Spacers are a gimmick now and dont make any difference, especially with a GDI engine the fuel is injected directly into the cylinder. In the older engines with carburetors it could sometimes make a difference because it changed the air flow in the intake and that was where the air and fuel were mixing as they entered the combustion chamber, so a better mixture or higher velocity to get more into the engine could improve performance, but not with the newer fuel injection systems. If you want to make a difference you need to tune (MAP) your ECM to increase boost and injector timing and cam and ign timing, reduce back pressure with down ppe and exhaust, get cooler air into it with a true cold air intake or better yet for a turbo a larger intercooler and wrap the turbo to reduce heat.

SJ408, it sounds like you have been busy but when you can would you measure the ground clearance directly under you doors and the front lip clearance height of your car and the gap in the tires to fenders with the car lowered as it is in the last pictures.

I received my Megan Springs that are supposed to lower it 1.5" front and 1.12 rear and before I install Im trying to get an idea of how low that will be and if I can expect some of the problems Ive had in the past with scraping. When I put Eibach springs on my G37s it was ok but putting them on a prius I owned was a pain in the a__ and I changed back to stock 4 months later because it hit everything, parking lot stops, speed bumps etc. Looks like my Sport 2.0t has about 7.25" at the front lip and 5.25" at the rocker panel directly under the back of the front door. With these springs if they are accurate in their specs Ill be at 5.75 at the front lip and about 4" at the center of the car. This will still be enough to clear basic everyday obstacles like the parking lot concrete stops and normal speed bumps and will cut the wheel gap in half from where it is stock. When it is time for tires I plan to plus size to a 245/45/18 or possibly a 255/45/18 which will add back 1" overall diameter (add 0.5" back in height and close the wheel gaps.)
 

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Discussion Starter #50
I would like to see a real life with and without dyno run. IMO Throttle Body Spacers are a gimmick now and dont make any difference, especially with a GDI engine the fuel is injected directly into the cylinder. In the older engines with carburetors it could sometimes make a difference because it changed the air flow in the intake and that was where the air and fuel were mixing as they entered the combustion chamber, so a better mixture or higher velocity to get more into the engine could improve performance, but not with the newer fuel injection systems. If you want to make a difference you need to tune (MAP) your ECM to increase boost and injector timing and cam and ign timing, reduce back pressure with down ppe and exhaust, get cooler air into it with a true cold air intake or better yet for a turbo a larger intercooler and wrap the turbo to reduce heat.

SJ408, it sounds like you have been busy but when you can would you measure the ground clearance directly under you doors and the front lip clearance height of your car and the gap in the tires to fenders with the car lowered as it is in the last pictures.

I received my Megan Springs that are supposed to lower it 1.5" front and 1.12 rear and before I install Im trying to get an idea of how low that will be and if I can expect some of the problems Ive had in the past with scraping. When I put Eibach springs on my G37s it was ok but putting them on a prius I owned was a pain in the a__ and I changed back to stock 4 months later because it hit everything, parking lot stops, speed bumps etc. Looks like my Sport 2.0t has about 7.25" at the front lip and 5.25" at the rocker panel directly under the back of the front door. With these springs if they are accurate in their specs Ill be at 5.75 at the front lip and about 4" at the center of the car. This will still be enough to clear basic everyday obstacles like the parking lot concrete stops and normal speed bumps and will cut the wheel gap in half from where it is stock. When it is time for tires I plan to plus size to a 245/45/18 or possibly a 255/45/18 which will add back 1" overall diameter (add 0.5" back in height and close the wheel gaps.)
Yeah, I honestly don't think I'll see any gains until the dyno proves me otherwise. Only thing that made me jump on it was the videos. I do believe that 2013-2015 Honda Accord Sports also have a direct inject 2.4L engine - marketed at 189HP, 185ft/lbs tor. Pretty close to our Sonata 2.4L GDI's 185HP, 178ft/lbs tor. His dyno run says he gained ~3HP and ~8ft/lb torque, and I don't think that guy even ran a modified intake, just stock. Had the spacer been $50+, I probably wouldn't have bought it, but eh worth a shot, I'll just pick up one more work shift and half my tip should cover that:)

As for the measurements, I did drop the rear quite a bit more than in that picture and I do plan on dropping the front a little more to match. The rear wheels are now tucked into the wheel well a bit, almost no wheel gap. I can fit the tips of my fingers between the fender and the tire if that helps. I'll take measurements as it sits as of now, but that'd have to wait until tomorrow. I got finals today and got sleep to catch up on after these all-nighters. haha
 

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Little teaser. Tried them on using stock lug nuts. Pops out a little more than i’d like but might go lower with a little more camber. Rear wheel is stock in the photo*
Your car looks great. Is that a Harbor Freight low profile aluminum jack? If it is just asking how you like it as I am in the market for an extra jack.
 

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Your car looks great. Is that a Harbor Freight low profile aluminum jack? If it is just asking how you like it as I am in the market for an extra jack.
I have a HF 1.5 ton Aluminum "Racing Floor Jack" got it with a 20% off coupon for about $60.00 and a HF 3 ton low profile steel floor jack for $ 75 with the 20% coupons . Ive had them for a couple years , only use them maybe once a month for the cars, riding mowers etc. Bought the 1.5 ton aluminum as the back up to help move axles around when we did a 4" lift on my sons 4x4, It works well, but like most HF tools if you are going to use it daily at max use buy the warranty. They now have some new lines of tools that they carry that are higher quality, Daytona Jacks, Bauer and Hercules cordless electric tools and the Vulcan Welders are all much higher quality stuff
 

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SJ408

When you have time to take the 2 measurements Im looking for clearance height at the front lip and under the middle (about under the rocker at the back of the front door).

Looks like standard parking stops are 5 or 5.25" and stock clearance on the 2017 Sport 2.0T at the front lip is about 7.25 so with a 1.5" drop I should still be Ok.

Anyone else out there that has lowered their LF if you have any measurements Id appreciate info.

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #54
SJ408

When you have time to take the 2 measurements Im looking for clearance height at the front lip and under the middle (about under the rocker at the back of the front door).

Looks like standard parking stops are 5 or 5.25" and stock clearance on the 2017 Sport 2.0T at the front lip is about 7.25 so with a 1.5" drop I should still be Ok.

Anyone else out there that has lowered their LF if you have any measurements Id appreciate info.

Thanks
Lip clearance is about 6.4” and the center body is 5.4”(from ground to the bottom of the pinch weld running thru the side). Like I said, i havent gotten the chance to lower the front more so it’ll probably be +/-6” afterwards. I didnt have my tape measure on me at the time but i did use my iPhone 6s as a ruler. Lol
 

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Lip clearance is about 6.4” and the center body is 5.4”(from ground to the bottom of the pinch weld running thru the side). Like I said, i havent gotten the chance to lower the front more so it’ll probably be +/-6” afterwards. I didnt have my tape measure on me at the time but i did use my iPhone 6s as a ruler. Lol
Thanks very much ! That was about what i was hoping for, at those settings should be enough clearance that normal everyday wont scrape.

When you get it dialed in be sure to post picture again, its looking great!
 

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Discussion Starter #56
Your car looks great. Is that a Harbor Freight low profile aluminum jack? If it is just asking how you like it as I am in the market for an extra jack.
Yup it is a HF 1.5 ton low profile. It works fine as of now, but I am scared about it failing on me. I do have a set of jack stands I got from them as well but I feel like they're super tall and hardly use them because of how high I'd have to jack my car up.
 

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Discussion Starter #57
Thanks very much ! That was about what i was hoping for, at those settings should be enough clearance that normal everyday wont scrape.

When you get it dialed in be sure to post picture again, its looking great!
Yeah clearance should be fine, only maybe on super steep curb entrances/exits you might scrape the front end if you don't angle it. And with the parking stops, I just never pull in that close to prevent and risk of hitting them. haha

Pics will probably be in the next week or two after I mess around some more with the suspension.
 

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Discussion Starter #58
Installed the throttle body spacer and I was getting an amazingly loud knock/rattle sound. Took it off with the quickness and might just end up returning it. Lol Will post a video of the sound later this week.
 

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Discussion Starter #59 (Edited)
Pulled the trigger on the sound proofing materials. Ended up going with [ame]https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0751G6TMV/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=AXJ5VNOZL83GP&psc=1[/ame] and [ame]https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BKKZ1AM/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=AXJ5VNOZL83GP&psc=1[/ame]. I know that Peel and Seal/cheap alternatives seem much cheaper, but realistically it was not. One roll of Peel and Seal runs $17.65 for 12.5sq/ft. Multiply that to get the same 86 sq/ft coverage from the brand named products and you get 87.5sq/ft of Peel and Seal for $123.55 +tax.

Ordering the Kilmat 50mil x 50sq/ft and the Noico 80mil x 36sq/ft got me 86sq/ft at $128 NO tax thru Amazon Prime. Plus 5% off via my Discover card via Amazon, helps out a little bit. I'm planning on using the Noico 80mil on the wheel wells and doors. Maybe the roof if I have enough left over. Then the Kilmat 50mil will take up everything else (hopefully): trunk, hood, back seat bench, etc.

PS: there is a sale going on thru eBay where if you buy 2 rolls/packs via Mix&Match of Noico or Kilmat products, you get an extra 5% off as well. I was going to order it thru eBay for $118 shipped, but I feel more secure and trusting of Amazon, plus the Prime shipping too.
 

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Discussion Starter #60
Walmart has a clearance sale on Noico soundproofing products right now. 80mil 36sq/ft for $44 and change. Cancelled my Amazon order and placed one there. 72sq/ft of 80mil for $97.
 
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