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As others have mentioned, go to at least a 5W30 and choose a quality low volatility synthetic oil. Which Mobil1 oil did you choose? I run the Mobil 1Extended performance which performs well in every respect including volatility. I check oil every fill up. 4 OCs on the 2.0T at 5k intervals and no loss. Nothing in the catch can either of note.
I concur Sir CHECK your oil every time you fill up...NO matter what..this gives you a great opportunity to see what is going on with whatever type of car or piece of equipment you are operating..It is a little late when you pull the dipstick and find you have little or no oil...Easy Preventative maintenance that goes a long way!
 

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Hey guys, I now have a new engine from Hyundai because of same problems you posted. For the price of an oil change the dealer can check it's oil consumption every 1000 miles and top it off for you. I was bringing it in every 500 cause thats when I normally would add oil. The GDI engine was using .8 quarts average per 1000 miles.
 

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Hey guys, I now have a new engine from Hyundai because of same problems you posted. For the price of an oil change the dealer can check it's oil consumption every 1000 miles and top it off for you. I was bringing it in every 500 cause thats when I normally would add oil. The GDI engine was using .8 quarts average per 1000 miles.
The dealership is recommending a synthetic blend now.
 

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Just be sure to not get " high mileage" oil, unless you plan to stick with that for the rest of the engine's life. .. My understanding is they put additives in these to swell seals to prevent leaks... Anyone can correct me if this is wrong...

For me this oil change I used Valvoline 5w30 full synth because I like their can design.... but I'm normally a castrol extended performance guy :)
 

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Your understanding is wrong. High mileage oil, that meets SAE/API/ILSAC requirements can't have an excessive dose of seal swell agents. The dose is a fixed ranged required for the spec. Oil can be a little thicker since the grade range is pretty wide. You can switch to/from conventional/blend/synthetic/regular mileage/ or highmileage oil anytime you want. And, you can switch among ANY grade of oil in your owners manual.
 

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DeadRX is right.
5w30 Dexos1 Gen2 is what I like to run. I never go beyond 4k OCIs with this GDI.
 

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Hello folks,
My 2017 Sonata sport with the 2.4L GDI is at about 31,000 miles at this point. To this point the car has mechanically been sound. Around 28,000 miles, I performed an oil change and tire rotation and decided to use synthetic oil for the change. The oil was replaced with Mobil 1 5w-20 synthetic, which it seems this engine calls for. At first, all seemed well, infact, the timing chain and lifters seemed a bit quieter than they did with their conventional counterparts. I run on a 5,000 mile change interval.

Today, I heard the car running outside and noticed that the chain/lifters were a bit noisy, not alarmingly so (in my experience hyundai 4 cyls are just a bit noisy in general) I drove it to my local garage and we checked the oil, and found that it was sitting at about a quart low. When it originally had the chainge done, we had filled the oil right to the fill marker on the dipstick, so it was properly filled. Im personally a bit baffled that the engine would consume almost a quart of oil in 3000 miles.

Has anyone seen this before? How common is it? Should I maybe run the engine on 5w-30, which the manual also seems to say is fine for this motor. Also oddly enough when i purchased the car, there was something about the dealer advising against synthetic oil for this engine, is there any merit to that? Any advice would be great, thanks!
 

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DeadRX is right.
5w30 Dexos1 Gen2 is what I like to run. I never go beyond 4k OCIs with this GDI.
With all GDI engines, the valves are not getting cleaned by the fuel injectors as they were in older cars with regular fuel injections engines where they we’re getting sprayed directly on the backs of valves with gas and staying pretty clean of carbon buildup! It’s recommended to use a GDI intake valve and turbo cleaner at a minimum of every 5,000 mile oil change! You spray it directly into the intake on top of the engine while running at a 2,000 rpm! You can even her this off Amazon! Sometimes cheaper but the other place I’ve gotten it cheaper is Orileys Auto parts! The fuel injectors in GDI engines spray directly into the combustion chamber instead on the back side of the vales, therefore letting carbon buildup and clog up the engine and reduce power and decrease fuel efficiency! I do this every 5,000 mile oil change and it makes a huge difference. Follow directions on the can when you purchase! But I’ve had my car to still burn a whole quart after oil changes of 5,000 miles! It’s a 2017, I purchased in 2016 new! It now has 70,000 miles. I use 5W/30 synthetic blend oil for the change! So that part still has me worried! It’s happened 3 different times! But not back to back!?
 

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Not sure why you quoted me. Your follow-up post has nothing to do with what I mentioned and I already do the things you described in your follow-up post.

But I will add....
You need a stronger oil - one that cleans better, for your 5K rituals. Your syn-blend ritual isn't cutting the mustard. Plus, once you find a product that doesn't consume, don't switch from it.

I'll bet your oil dipstick is black, soon after an oil change. My oil (even after 18 years of use), is still clear on the dipstick, at 1K beyond the most recent oil change. Oil is cheap and I keep my inner-engine clean. If my engine were to implode / grenade suddenly - without prior sympttoms, the dealer would never ask me for oil receipts, to honor the warranty or recalls. They would immediately see that I take care of my machine. You should do the same.

Your idea to use 5w30 is good. If your engine begins to wear more prematurely, don;t be afraid to introduce 0w40 or 5w40 to it. There are 40w brands out there that are SN Plus and even SP.
 

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It’s recommended to use a GDI intake valve and turbo cleaner at a minimum of every 5,000 mile oil change!
Recommended by who, other than the companies selling this stuff?
I have several points of skepticism.
First, I've seen no before and after images showing substantial cleaning.
Second, when sprayed into the manifold, does it get evenly distributed to the valves?
There is evidence it can collect in the manifold in liquid form, then dump into the cylinders when the engine is put under load.
Hydrolock is a possibility.
Third, it's possible bits of carbon and gunk can travel to the cat converter and damage it.

I'm going to wait until (if ever) there's some symptom of a problem, then remove the intake manifold and clean the valves manually.
 

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Recommended by who, other than the companies selling this stuff?
I have several points of skepticism.
First, I've seen no before and after images showing substantial cleaning.
Second, when sprayed into the manifold, does it get evenly distributed to the valves?
There is evidence it can collect in the manifold in liquid form, then dump into the cylinders when the engine is put under load.
Hydrolock is a possibility.
Third, it's possible bits of carbon and gunk can travel to the cat converter and damage it.

I'm going to wait until (if ever) there's some symptom of a problem, then remove the intake manifold and clean the valves manually.
It doesn't do a substantial clean. It's a product intended for light cleaning and begun at a early start (10k)...... then use every 10k thereafter. The CRC Spray will double - maybe triple the amount of time, before a more thorough blasting of the affected areas is needed.

Nowhere on any Intake Spray can, does it state it will remove the carbon / sooty buildup. Thank goodness it doesn't, for large particles that break-off, could damage your engine permanently.
 

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Maintenance from day one!! The proper oil as spected' changed FREQUENTLY! is the key....Keep meticulous records so you can see a trend developing....and this will also support any warranty claims...this nonsense of cars (esp Turbo models) going 5 thousand miles with out using any oil is a just not happening!
If your car has a dipstick check your oil every time you fill your tank!! It does NOT take but a couple of minutes and you have a very good opportunity to see for yourself what is going on!
 

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It doesn't do a substantial clean. It's a product intended for light cleaning and begun at a early start (10k)...... then use every 10k thereafter. The CRC Spray will double - maybe triple the amount of time, before a more thorough blasting of the affected areas is needed.

Nowhere on any Intake Spray can, does it state it will remove the carbon / sooty buildup. Thank goodness it doesn't, for large particles that break-off, could damage your engine permanently.
It doesn’t damage your engine! I’ve had 2 different dealerships recommend me to do it every 5,000 oil change and if you look on YouTube, you’ll see videos of people using it and other sprays showing how effective each product is! Our KIA we had before the Hyundai , i wasn’t told to use the spray and it finally started knocking and pinging because I never used the spray! KIA wound up installing a new engine in it but the warranty still went by the mileage on the body and not the new body after they replaced the old engine with a new one!
 

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You should really remove your head every 50k miles blast your intake valves with walnut shells, reinstall and call it a day if you have a pure GDI engine. This is why some auto manufacturers are going to a blended fuel injection system, GDI and multiport systems to keep intake valves clean.

I hate GDI with a passion and blame Obama administrations ridiculous increases to future CAFE standards to saddling us with technology that doesn't work.

Same reason why modern engine with supposedly tighter tolerances burn more oil than older engines. Its called low tension piston rings to improve fuel economy.

BTW, one of the posters on this forum is my younger brother. Guess who it is and I'll mail you a Fram synthetic media oil filter to the first person who guesses.
 

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You should really remove your head every 50k miles blast your intake valves with walnut shells, reinstall and call it a day if you have a pure GDI engine. This is why some auto manufacturers are going to a blended fuel injection system, GDI and multiport systems to keep intake valves clean.

I hate GDI with a passion and blame Obama administrations ridiculous increases to future CAFE standards to saddling us with technology that doesn't work.

Same reason why modern engine with supposedly tighter tolerances burn more oil than older engines. Its called low tension piston rings to improve fuel economy.

BTW, one of the posters on this forum is my younger brother. Guess who it is and I'll mail you a Fram synthetic media oil filter to the first person who guesses.
GDI engines aren’t a blended fuel
Injected engine! They only have injectors the spray directly into the piston housing! It’s not the job of every new car owner to remove the entire head and blast it with walnut shells because something the manufacture screwed up! The alternative is the GDI I take valve and turbo cleaner! Was recommended by several different dealerships to me! To remove the head every 10,000 miles that would have to be takes to a mechanic and these days cannot trust! 90% of people don’t have the correct tools for that job and shouldn’t have! It’s some these manufacturers are realizing they fucked up and as of 2021 are discussing the remake of their engines with fuel injectors in both places! There change in the first place was seen as to give the cars more power and a big raise in Fuel mileage! Think about this!
 

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ok a lot of talk about this and that...It appears most of know "a little something" about this and that...BUT
Do your homework first before you buy any of these "New Fangled-Contraption"...It's a lot easier to just walk away than to back track after a purchase! Better yet get a Horse!
Happy Thanks Giving to all!
Play it safe!
 

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Smart automakers are moving to the blended system.... GDI + MPFI. Hyundai offers it in some of their Smartstream engines. These engines can run on GDI only mode, MPFI only mode, or a BLENDED GDI+MPFI mode. Nothing like 8 injectors on a 4 cylinder engine keeping it running better.

I will stick with a yearly spray can IVD cleaning..... hopefully to postpone the walnut shell blasting as long as possible. I have more than one GDI only engine in the driveway. Both get the cans based on mileage or time. I am a bit too lazy to remove intake manifolds to blast away with walnut shell. I'd probably skip the walnut shell for baking soda instead. But, I don't always follow the pied piper as posted on the interweb. I'd feel a little safer if there was a little soda powder instead of walnet shell in my engine. I'm waiting for some idiotyahoo to use sand blasting.

From the sounds of the bottom end on my Theta-ii, I might get a new engine before needing intake valve blasting.

The goal of the MPG/emissions technology that doesn't work too well is to make fuel powered vehicles miserable to own.... look at the hassle that these GDI cars and DPF equipped diesels bring to the table. You will want an electric car or bicycle if the stress level of owning fuel-powered cars becomes excessive.

Spray cleaner has nothing to do with preventing rod knocking. Post the names of the two dealers that recommend 5k intake spray cleaning. There isn't a Hyundai dealer around here that even knows what it is. Some will sell franchised services, like BG and their competitors. There isn't anyone I know that wants to spend $300 on a intake cleaning at every 3000 or 3750 mile interval. Don't kid yourself.

CRC is just one of the dozen brands that offer a spray. Don't get hung up on the brand. Used the STP and Lucas competitors already too, along with Amsoil Powerfoam, Gumout, Berryman, and Seafoam spray.

The proper oil spec is a failure. To be frank, there is no proper oil spec. There is only a recommendation on the oil cap for best MPG. Hows that working out for Hyundai/Kia, and owners of that brand with failed engines? How soon some forget about the class action lawsuits required to get Hyundai to replace the engines!

For the 2.4 GDI, I recommend 5w30 over the 5w20.
For the 2.0T GDI, I recommend 5w40 over the 5w30.

I also don't use or recommend OE filters. You get more flow, more filtered flow, more particle capacity with synthetic-media oil filters. I guess with Hyundai changing the part number every couple years, one can only wonder why?

I don't care for the dexos1 spec. I prefer the lower ash euro higher HTHS oils, like the dexos2 spec. Dexos1 is up to gen3 these days. I guess that even though GM was considerably more demanding than useless API/ILSAC, they had to uprev again and again. Will oil be the solution to engine misengineering???? Some automakers think so, and why I recommend thicker grades and the severe service interval.

Fuel dilution seems to exaggerate the so-called engineering defects in the theta-ii engines. I just haven't seen a non-lubricant related failure. Yes, all the pictures posted by those take these engines apart look like the oil has failed. So, stick with the severe service interval. And, keep your oil level FULL ALWAYS, checked often.

The solution to IVD, oil consumption, and Hyundai warranty issues

 

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Bravo deadrx7
 
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