You are describing conditions more like an engine that is already a wreck, and probably not one at 30,000 miles.The fact that the system recirculates all the gases and oil etc that gets volatilized in the crankcase during operation and dumps it on the top of the valves is common knowledge for all modern engines. ON GDI only vehicles the carbon build up will happen faster if not controlled or cleaned regularly. The people currently sueing Hyundai say this carbon buildup breaks off in the combustion chamber or on top of the valves and gets between the piston and cylinder walls, then makes the cylinder wear out of round causing ring wear and ultimately dropping down into oil etc. In the suit, i believe they are saying these pieces get into the the oil passages and restrict flow to the crank causing failure.
Personally I do not buy that. It doesnt fit my knowledge of engines ive built , rebuilt, raced and rebuilt again over my lifetime.. I just do not see any significant carbon particles in the crankcase or in my oils even though, sure, there is a little more soot with GDI.. What i do see is a lot of is fuel dilution with the GDI. Due to soot particles and fuel dilution, i will never go longer than 5k miles on oil change for a GDI motor regardless of how good the oil is. This is all of course just my opinion.
OP, its not that the Mobil 1 oil you used isnt good, its that you want the least amount of volatility to keep the most oil out of the gases recirculating in the engine. Even within their product line volatility will vary. The extended life is one of the better ones in my experience. It definitely does not fix this particular issue with GDI. but It will result in less build up on top of the valves and less oil loss. Catch cans are another relatively cheap way to reduce this carbon build up but will not affect oil loss.
You are describing conditions more like an engine that is already a wreck, and probably not one at 30,000 miles.
My GNs treated me well enough for 12 years and my eclipse gt vert indeed has 240k miles on it and still takes me everywhere i want to go every summer. This is not my first Theta II 2.0T either. GDI, Forced induction, higher compression ratios etc are going to generate certain issues that must be mitigated for long term reliability. It only makes sense to do what you can.
Anyway, I am not a mechanic by trade. I was very clear that what I said is my opinion. Your opinion is, yours. Cheers
Normal for a GDI engine. This is the oil dilution that everyone talks about, why the oil goes dark early and has a fuel / exhaust smell. This is why it is important to keep OCI at 5,000 or less with a high quality oil.Not sure if bad news,
The bottom of the cap itself smelled a bit like exhaust. Not sure If all of what I describe is normal for a higher compression 4 cyl like I have or a precursor to trouble. Some advice would be great ?.
Not sure if bad news,
After reading replies here earlier, I was private messaged by someone mentioning a sizzling sound in their engine bay at load, I noticed mine does this, but only at high rpm, basically redline, normal loads, even with the pedal floored do not produce this noise...I was told it is pinging from oil cooking off the engine, not sure if that is true or not, but now has me getting paranoid. Originally, I simply thought this noise was the plastic intake or similar heaving or moving with the engine (this engine does like to dance a bit under the hood).
This evening is rather warm, after driving home from work, I decided to pop the hood and look things over.oil level is okay, and I was curious to the engine's blowby, based on the horror stories. I don't recall it being this strong, but maybe my memory isn't clear. I removed the oil cap and started the engine. To start it managed to shake the oil cap off of the top of the motor, the second was that it felt pretty strong, like poof poof poof poof basically, there is no water in my oil and the engine idles fine with no warning lights on the dash. Also to note the engine was managing to splash some oil out of the open cap. The bottom of the cap itself smelled a bit like exhaust. Not sure If all of what I describe is normal for a higher compression 4 cyl like I have or a precursor to trouble. Some advice would be great ?.
I have not noticed any of that from UOAs. I actually took a crankcase pressure reading through the dip stick tube and got negligible reading using 1-5 psi oil filled gauge. There was no way to do it under load, so reading was at 2500 - 3000 rpm in park.Normal for a GDI engine.
I'll get you a UOA with soot loading on my next oil change on my GDI.Have you ever done a soot test on your oil, or is this just internet expertise?
I had a 2007 and a 2009 6.6 duramax. Loved the power but ended up swearing off them due to fuel and maintenance costs.I'll get you a UOA with soot loading on my next oil change on my GDI.
Don't need to be a rocket scientist to equate dirt black oil and sooted up exahust to know soot. I've owned many diesels and my GDI oil is almost as "dirty" as a diesel engine's oil at a 5k oil change interval.
All "turbo or forced induction" engines have a greater chance of having or developing more blowby then a normally aspirated production engine. Higher compression ratios, pressures with OEM tolerances will either have or develop more blow by, causing more contaminates into the crankcase and diluting the oil. GDI by the higher compression and fuel delivery directly into the combustion chamber all have more contaminates entering the oil.I have not noticed any of that from UOAs. I actually took a crankcase pressure reading through the dip stick tube and got negligible reading using 1-5 psi oil filled gauge. There was no way to do it under load, so reading was at 2500 - 3000 rpm in park.
I also have a very sensitive air filled cm/HG gauge which I used as well and it bounced around in the zero range.
I can't relate the past 30 years, only what I'm finding on my engine which doesn't fit the scare mongering results so far in my GDI.And honestly I have only had limited exposure (5 cars) that were GDI in Hyundai and KIA but I do have experience as a mechanic from 1970 to 1983 (ASE Certified 2 yr after the program started 1974 , California SMOG Tech licensed in 1974, Datsun, VW, and Bosch Certifications through dealerships) as well as a lot of project cars and motorcycles.
The closed PCV system will not only pull the gases etc out of the crankcase but it also pull clean air from a source near the airfilter or intake conduit. The pressures are pretty well balanced here. In an open system used on older vehicles , think 60s 70s, they used a PCV valve on one valve cover and open air filter on the other. Wasnt perfect as at lower RPMs the gases would go out the fresh air filter. But it was still a big improvement. IMO an open system is what you would need to measure with your instrument. You could "open" the system on your Hyundai and see what reading you get.Is it enough to be able to measure increased pressure in the crankcase - I dont know - if the emissions systems (PCV, vents, canister) are working correctly I would be surprised if you could measure any noticeable pressure change as they are there to scavenge the crankcase.
That's something I'll look into - maybe a better position for pressure gauge.You could "open" the system on your Hyundai and see what reading you get.