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Hello folks,
My 2017 Sonata sport with the 2.4L GDI is at about 31,000 miles at this point. To this point the car has mechanically been sound. Around 28,000 miles, I performed an oil change and tire rotation and decided to use synthetic oil for the change. The oil was replaced with Mobil 1 5w-20 synthetic, which it seems this engine calls for. At first, all seemed well, infact, the timing chain and lifters seemed a bit quieter than they did with their conventional counterparts. I run on a 5,000 mile change interval.

Today, I heard the car running outside and noticed that the chain/lifters were a bit noisy, not alarmingly so (in my experience hyundai 4 cyls are just a bit noisy in general) I drove it to my local garage and we checked the oil, and found that it was sitting at about a quart low. When it originally had the chainge done, we had filled the oil right to the fill marker on the dipstick, so it was properly filled. Im personally a bit baffled that the engine would consume almost a quart of oil in 3000 miles.

Has anyone seen this before? How common is it? Should I maybe run the engine on 5w-30, which the manual also seems to say is fine for this motor. Also oddly enough when i purchased the car, there was something about the dealer advising against synthetic oil for this engine, is there any merit to that? Any advice would be great, thanks!
 

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A quart in 3000 miles is considered OK. The manufacturer considers a quart in 1000 miles as acceptable.
 

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My 2017 does not burn any oil in 5k OCIs on Quaker State Ultimate Durability 5w-20.

Hyundai owner's manual says to check oil level with engine hot, turn off engine and check level after 5 minutes. If you check the oil level just after shut down there is still oil in the upper engine and the level will show lower. So when getting gas check the level after filling - about 5 minutes.

Hyundai says level should be from 1/2 way down the level mark to the top on the dip stick.

I think 1 quart in 5K miles to be unacceptable, as all my vehicles have never burned oil.
 

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2018 Sonata Limited 2.0T (Mfg:11/09/17)
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. . . we had filled the oil right to the fill marker on the dipstick, so it was properly filled.
This is probably a given but will ask 'the basics' anyway.

Did you add the proper amount of oil as stated per specs or added oil until the level was at the 'fill marker' on the dipstick?

Was the dipstick level [you filled to] noted prior to initial startup or after the engine had been started, warmed, filter and top end filled, and then shut down for the recheck?

What oil/specs were you using prior to the 28000-mile replacement with the Mobil 1 5w-20 synthetic?

And, have you visually inspected the draft panels under the vehicle for indications of an oil leak?


I had not heard/read anything about 2.4's incompatibility with synthetic oil.
.
 

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I would run 5w30 or 10w30. If in a really cold climate, another option is 0w30.

Stick with synthetic oil and synthetic filters.

And, check your oil level more frequently, like every 500 miles. You don't need a local garage to check your oil.

Properly filled, after an oil change, requires driving until vehicle is at full operating temperature, then parking on a level surface, waiting 5 minutes and then checking then level. Too many aren't consistent with their oil level check method or patient enough to get an accurate reading. This usually doesn't happen in the quicklube lane.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Hi folks, to answer some questions:


1. when we filled the oil, we had it filled to the top dot on the dipstick, or, the full marker for the sump. I wouldnt think that would constitute an oil fill, maybe hyundai's "acceptable" range is just the point they determine is adaquate. When the oil level was discovered, it was down to the bottom dot on L, indicating low oil. I cannot imagine just filling the oil to the full marker on the dipstick is an overfill situation that could cause a burn, and even then, why would it consume a quart????


2. the oil level was noted first when filled, then the engine was started for a moment to let the oil circulate through the engine, and then checked and topped as needed.



3. Prior to the current change, I had whatever bulk oil the dealer would sell me for an oil change service. If I had to guess it was probably a 5w-30 conventional. I didn't know this car would consume oil at the time. Since going to the synthetic I have noticed that when idling the car's lifters and timing chain are a bit quieter than the dino counterpart.



4. Checking the draft panel, I didn't notice a small trace amount of oil on the inside of the splash cover facing the engine, as well as the oil filter, tightened the filter, however i cannot see it indicating something as it was more of a weep than an actual drip, tightened the filter and cannot see anything coming out.


I suppose the next course of action is to monitor the car and see how things run here out. The next change I plan to try to go to 5w-30 oil, as the manual also says this car can be run on it, and see if the consumption changes. The weird part about this whole thing is, why does it seem some people here have consumption and others don't, despite the same engine.
 

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The weird part about this whole thing is, why does it seem some people here have consumption and others don't, despite the same engine.

Manufacturing tolerances and quality control. Even with 100% good parts, the tolerances can add up if your cylinder walls are on the large side and the piston ring grooves (and rings) are on the small side.
 

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I use 5w-30 Penzoil Platinum and mine does not burn any oil between changes with a 4k mile OCI.
I also frequently check the oil and do not see any oil loss at all.
 

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As others have mentioned, go to at least a 5W30 and choose a quality low volatility synthetic oil. Which Mobil1 oil did you choose? I run the Mobil 1Extended performance which performs well in every respect including volatility. I check oil every fill up. 4 OCs on the 2.0T at 5k intervals and no loss. Nothing in the catch can either of note.
 

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Time for some high performance Redline 5w30 for a 5,000 mile minimum oil change interval. Hopefully that will clean things out and reseal your rings assuming no obvious leak such as valve cover, oil pan gasket, drain plug, etc...

Another option for your GDI engine is to do many short trips where the engine doesn't even get to normal operating temperature and VIOLA, your engine will miraculously increase its oil level.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks guys, I suppose my plan here out is to finish this oci interval with the 5w20 the engine currently has, then on the next oci, which is in another 2000 miles, change it again with 5w30.

As for the oil brand specifically, i just stuck with plain old Mobil1. Did not think the engine needed any special blends, like high mileage or the like as its a fairly low mile car. Mobil1 itself has served me well in older vehicles ive owned in the past, though they were port injected and timing chain driven, my best result with it was in a 2.2 ecotec where the oil became so clean after a couple changes that it would still be fairly clear when changed. In this engine, its crazy how much carbon winds up in the oil .

As for engineering tolerance differences, that does confuse me a bit, i read about older vehicles from the 70s having issues with manufacturing tolerances and inconsistencies, but thought since the 90s, if not 80s, this had become largely a thing of the past.

If, after adding 5w30 the burn continues, i figure the next course of action is to reach out to the dealer. Given the known problems the theta II has, something doesnt seem right to me if it is going to consume, or at least, id want a case open with the dealer so if something does happen, i can say that it was previously reported and told it was "normal".
 

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A better filter will help trap the carbon deposits and keep the oil cleaner longer.
The Wix XP filters have a good reputation on this board.
 

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[QUOTE=...its crazy how much carbon winds up in the oil .

How do you suppose carbon 'winds up in the oil'?
 

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...its crazy how much carbon winds up in the oil . How do you suppose carbon 'winds up in the oil'?[/quote said:
The fact that the system recirculates all the gases and oil etc that gets volatilized in the crankcase during operation and dumps it on the top of the valves is common knowledge for all modern engines. ON GDI only vehicles the carbon build up will happen faster if not controlled or cleaned regularly. The people currently sueing Hyundai say this carbon buildup breaks off in the combustion chamber or on top of the valves and gets between the piston and cylinder walls, then makes the cylinder wear out of round causing ring wear and ultimately dropping down into oil etc. In the suit, i believe they are saying these pieces get into the the oil passages and restrict flow to the crank causing failure.



Personally I do not buy that. It doesnt fit my knowledge of engines ive built , rebuilt, raced and rebuilt again over my lifetime.. I just do not see any significant carbon particles in the crankcase or in my oils even though, sure, there is a little more soot with GDI.. What i do see is a lot of is fuel dilution with the GDI. Due to soot particles and fuel dilution, i will never go longer than 5k miles on oil change for a GDI motor regardless of how good the oil is. This is all of course just my opinion.


OP, its not that the Mobil 1 oil you used isnt good, its that you want the least amount of volatility to keep the most oil out of the gases recirculating in the engine. Even within their product line volatility will vary. The extended life is one of the better ones in my experience. It definitely does not fix this particular issue with GDI. but It will result in less build up on top of the valves and less oil loss. Catch cans are another relatively cheap way to reduce this carbon build up but will not affect oil loss.
 

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I just do not see any significant carbon particles in the crankcase or in my oils even though, sure, there is a little more soot with GDI.. What i do see is a lot of is fuel dilution with the GDI. Due to soot particles and fuel dilution, i will never go longer than 5k miles on oil change for a GDI motor regardless of how good the oil is. This is all of course just my opinion.
My last UOA at 5k (OCI) tested less than 0.1% soot - quite negligible. As for fuel dilution, it's tough to get an accurate reading as most labs will not do direct analysis on gas engines due to explosion risk. They estimate from viscosity or flash point. From my UOAs the viscosity has been consistent with my PFI engines - so I think fuel dilution, at least for my driving habits, is nothing to worry about on this GDI.

TBN has also been consistent with PFI engines.

I'm happy with 5K OCI as we don't drive this car much so time is more of a factor.
 

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GDI engienes are known soot emitters. So much so that there is talk of then eventually being fitted with particulate filters typically found only on diesels. My Ford 6.7L diesel with its fancy emission system has a clean tailpipe. My GDI 2.0T tailpipe is completely sooted up. This is why GDI engine oil turns black so quick and in addition to fuel dilution, why extended oil change intervals aren't a good idea in a GDI.

For me, a 5k OCI comes out to 125 hours of time on oil. If I was doing more city driving, then I would probably reduce the OCI to 4k in a GDI turbo'd engine.
 

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GDI engienes are known soot emitters. So much so that there is talk of then eventually being fitted with particulate filters typically found only on diesels.
If it's going out the tailpipe it's not in the oil.
 

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If it's going out the tailpipe it's not in the oil.
If it gets past the rings, and why there is a PCV system, its is definitely getting in the oil, and plenty.

This soot, entering your oil via blowby, is abrasive and the automakers were caught with their pants down.
 
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