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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
The other day my left-front headlight stopped working and I got an indication on the console messaging to that effect. I checked the resistance of the bulb and it
was NOT burnt out. So I started thinking fuse, shorts, etc..

So I started to scrounge through the two fuse-boxes - under-hood and driver's side under-dash. I then found that there is NO obvious
low-beam fuse. By the way, the high beams work fine.

Not having a schematic yet for this car since I just bought it a couple months ago and haven't ordered the service manual, I decided
to try the fuse box anyway. There are modules and such like module 3 etc.. Eventually, I found that by wiggling the left-front headlight
connect and pushing in certain directions that the left-front headlight will go on.

My question is:
1) Can I remove the entire left-front headlight system's wiring somehow so I can better look for a short? By the way, when I turn
the headlights on, the amount of dim I see in the interior console seems out of proportion (as if there WAS a short or parastic draw).

2) I know how to use an ohmmeter to check for parasitic draws - I will do this.

But can I get a schematic of this stuff from someone - any help appreciated and/or advice?

I guess I need to simply FIRST: Make sure that the harness is good to go - I can replace all the wires if need be - I'm good at wiring stuff.
My biggest problem is - is it the harness connector wires not being pushed in - you know how it goes, I just have to figure all that stuff out? First check the wires, then the connectors, etc..

The hardest part is accessing it since it's all tucked in down the tube that the headlight low-beam goes in - the one I first removed from the car to
measure it's resistance.

So I don't have a problem trouble-shooting this in theory, I just would seem to struggle pulling all the wires out - any suggestions appreciated.

I'm guessing it's not the module controller, but simply a short in the wiring and/or possibly an open-circuit. When I push on all the wires, the headlight always
eventually goes on for a time. Then the next time I start the car, it normally does NOT work again. This has me a little perplexed, making me think a controller might be involved. I DID
removed the module 3 fuse and re-insinert it at one point but not with the key and lights on.

So I'm posting this to make sure I'm not missing something that someone already knows about my model of Hyundai. Tomorrow, I will go out
and try to remove all the wiring to the left front headlight and carefully inspect it and possibly I might just patch in my own headlight circuit and fuse
until I can sort throught it all.

I'm not terribly worried since I can put my own circuit in - it's more like I'm disappointed that Hyundai doesn't give us a fail-safe where we can
patch in a simple circuit - I could care less about the sensors if they aren't reliable. I would say a big no thanks to that circuitry since
I hear horror stories all the time.

Am I right to feel this way? Or am I just too cynical? Honestly, I don't know the answer to those questions.

Any opinions respected by me.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
The other day my left-front headlight stopped working and I got an indication on the console messaging to that effect. I checked the resistance of the bulb and it
was NOT burnt out. So I started thinking fuse, shorts, etc..


My car is not an SE - I guess there is such as thing as just a Sonata? The driver's manual just says Sonata
So I started to scrounge through the two fuse-boxes - under-hood and driver's side under-dash. I then found that there is NO obvious
low-beam fuse. By the way, the high beams work fine.

Not having a schematic yet for this car since I just bought it a couple months ago and haven't ordered the service manual, I decided
to try the fuse box anyway. There are modules and such like module 3 etc.. Eventually, I found that by wiggling the left-front headlight
connect and pushing in certain directions that the left-front headlight will go on.

My question is:
1) Can I remove the entire left-front headlight system's wiring somehow so I can better look for a short? By the way, when I turn
the headlights on, the amount of dim I see in the interior console seems out of proportion (as if there WAS a short or parastic draw).

2) I know how to use an ohmmeter to check for parasitic draws - I will do this.

But can I get a schematic of this stuff from someone - any help appreciated and/or advice?

I guess I need to simply FIRST: Make sure that the harness is good to go - I can replace all the wires if need be - I'm good at wiring stuff.
My biggest problem is - is it the harness connector wires not being pushed in - you know how it goes, I just have to figure all that stuff out? First check the wires, then the connectors, etc..

The hardest part is accessing it since it's all tucked in down the tube that the headlight low-beam goes in - the one I first removed from the car to
measure it's resistance.

So I don't have a problem trouble-shooting this in theory, I just would seem to struggle pulling all the wires out - any suggestions appreciated.

I'm guessing it's not the module controller, but simply a short in the wiring and/or possibly an open-circuit. When I push on all the wires, the headlight always
eventually goes on for a time. Then the next time I start the car, it normally does NOT work again. This has me a little perplexed, making me think a controller might be involved. I DID
removed the module 3 fuse and re-insinert it at one point but not with the key and lights on.

So I'm posting this to make sure I'm not missing something that someone already knows about my model of Hyundai. Tomorrow, I will go out
and try to remove all the wiring to the left front headlight and carefully inspect it and possibly I might just patch in my own headlight circuit and fuse
until I can sort throught it all.

I'm not terribly worried since I can put my own circuit in - it's more like I'm disappointed that Hyundai doesn't give us a fail-safe where we can
patch in a simple circuit - I could care less about the sensors if they aren't reliable. I would say a big no thanks to that circuitry since
I hear horror stories all the time.

Am I right to feel this way? Or am I just too cynical? Honestly, I don't know the answer to those questions.

Any opinions respected by me.
Can someone please post where I can get the 2017 Hyundai Sonata Service manual from a site that you know and can attest to that they give you a pdf file link.

I just tried ordering one, and they ripped me off - it was a scam. There's one in the UAE - is it legitimate? It costs 79.99, not a bad price if it's really going to give me that manual. The site with the rip-off was for a 2016 manual for only 29.99. But I never got the link so I disputed the transaction in Paypal and hopefully will receive a refund.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Noone seems to have a schematic but it seems to me that somewhere there is a relay that only closes if I wiggle the wires leading up to the left low-beam. Then once I do that, it won't work the next time since there is some other subtle problem in the system. Something is not allowing the relay to ground properly unless I short something out?

Hard to tell.
 

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Isnt your car still covered by the 60,000 bumper to bumper warranty? or are you a high mileage driver like me and past the 60,000 mark.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I actually don't know. I have a scheduled dealer service visit. But it's funny, I have two or three ideas I want to try:
1) Insert a tube down (around) the mis-behaving wire in hopes it's a wire to metal short since I see a huge drain in other circuitry upon turning the lights on

2) Take the grill off using a YouTube video as a guide. Then take the lense off. This will in all be about 15 ratchet-phillips screws, some clips, not that hard, not that easy, but doable.

3) Have it done when I go in for service in 3 days.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I'm at 40000 miles and I would like to sell the car even though it's a nice car other than the left-front headlight. I need the money right now
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I now realize that a tube won't work for a simple reason: After six inches the two wires go through a tiny orifice. This might explain the troubles. The wires rub against something chafy
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Today I had to push right at the connector to the bulb assembly to get the light to go on - pushing on the wires didn't help so I wonder if it's the connector but yet there is no voltage at all if I unhook the bulb. But perhaps I should wiggle the connector with the bulb unhooked - could the wire be cracked right at the little female end of the connector?

I now realize that a tube won't work for a simple reason: After six inches the two wires go through a tiny orifice. This might explain the troubles. The wires rub against something chafy
 

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Discussion Starter #9
To make a long story short: the problem was in the main 8-wire cable that feeds the let-front headlight systems their power.

A rodent which I actually saw crawl out from under the car one day at work, had gnawed just enough on the cable of 8 to pierce the insulation and eventually the wire was not making good enough contact except when it was wiggled and by chance, conntected.

So headlight problem is fixed - one new wire put in as the connector comes apart and allows for splicing in a new wire.


Headlights seem fine now.

Not the first time I've had rodents gnaw through the wires in my car - even lost my fuel-pump ground G302 on a Honda once.
 
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